Jay 1

GS-hypo, watered down fabric glue, and etc. are good choices for your knots. CA (superglue) can create a number of problems, so most builders avoid using it. Also 100% synthetic string is a bear to work with--it slips, stretches, is hard to tie or make coils with, and so forth. DMC brand thread is one of many nice choices--you'll likely get some different input here. Chuck P., MSW admin and owner of the Syren Model Ship Co. (link on forum contents page), sells very nice rigging line--highly recommend it! Also before you rig, pre-stretch the line you plan to use. There are many ways you can do this (I tie heavy wrenches to both ends of the line I'm going to use and then drape it over a coat hook high on a door for a day or two). Also, a 3rd hand or two are also very helpful and worth the money (http://www.amazon.com/Third-Hand-Soldering-Tools-Magnifier-Loupes/dp/B000VB6HSM). Hope that helps, Kimberley! Jay

Hi Kimberly and welcome aboard! Here's a great animated knot tying web site--many are actually videos--that will show you exactly how to tie the knots... http://www.animatedknots.com/knotlist.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com Good luck on your build! Jay

I very much enjoyed reading everyone's thoughts on the plans, hearing about your research, and trading ideas! My plans just arrived today from the NMM, so will study them closely in relation to everything we've been talking about. Gregor, I read the same about some of the Sherbourne plans recently--some may have been training ones; I just can't remember where I read that to cite the source (old age... ). I'll also be looking at some of those other 1763 plans a bit closer now that I'm ready to move forward with my build. I also agree that plans don't have to be followed with total faith. I'm sure the ship's look, fittings, and etc. were changed over the course of their active lives (I know many ship captains would change a ship's rigging to suit their tastes). I also suspect many beginner kits (at least the kits by good companies like Caldercraft, Amati, and etc.) get some modification by designers so that they are easier builds for new builders--sort of make sense. In the end, they're our builds, so we can do what makes us happy and makes a nice model! My only big complaint with kits is when they design them with bad mistakes and not fix those problems--it makes building them very difficult. I ran into this with an Artesania Latina kit--many things were just very messed up with the kit's basic design so that building it was very difficult, as a result I'll never build another one of their kits again. Sumner, that's a beautiful view you have! Guess I could deal with that altitude on beautiful days! Wow, 3 elevators...I won't complain about my ride times anymore..lol! Jay

Sam, I think we both feel the same about sails...in their non plural form they are a 4 letter word! LOL! Jay

Sam I've been quietly following most of this about the Essex for a while now. Kudos to you and ME for seeking a positive resolution--it speaks volumes on both your and ME's commitment to, and integrity in, providing builders with quality products! Thank you for all of your diligent and conscientious work! And just to lighten things up a little, do you think you'll later do some sails for the Essex? Jay

Very nice Sumner!

Wow, definitely can see the challenges with that limited space Sumner! And with little ones...yes, everything does need to be put away. Oi, didn't realize you were in HK--I was there a few times in passing when I was in the service. Don't think I'd like to be up that high but that's the nature of the island with its limited space! Hmm, the 4mm 2nd planking makes sense--my cogs are turning... About the gunport lids... There's a 2nd set of Sherbourne plans at the NMM (# 6764) online that has no port lids... Also, consider where the canon recoil tackles are located--about opposite where the hinges are. Every time a gun recoiled, the shock transfer from the recoil termination point would tend to induce lids that weren't well secured to swing shut. Even if well secured, the recoil would also place a lot of stress on side hinges (definitely not made from high grade steel or alloy). As another check, a search on the NMM plan site using "circa 1763" (quotes not required http://prints.rmg.co.uk/category/Ship-plans ) turns up quite number of 1763 cutter plans. Most, if not all (been awhile since I looked at the ones I downloaded), those plans don't have lids... While I think the lids will look great on a build, I'm just not sure if they were used on these ships in a sideways (90 degree) configuration. Hope you didn't mind my chiming in on the gun port lids... Again thanks for your updates, Sumner...and am not going to think about how high the altitude is on your 63rd floor! Cheers, Jay

Thanks, Sumner--am starting to feel better, so I think I may pull up a chair to my building board and do a little work this week. Looking forward to seeing your clinker planking and your counter--more importantly, I'm glad you've had some free time for some play! Jay

Kester, sorry for the delayed reply--been down ill for the past week plus, so haven't been as active or attentive here on MSW as I normally am. I do hope you post your BNII to the gallery--I'd love to see the work you did on her! I'm also fond of fishing schooners--a few are planned future builds! Jay

The wales and stern are looking good, Sumner! Kester's right, you should still be able to see some, if not all, of the plank directions on the stern after you paint, particularly if you airbrush. Keep up the nice work--looking forward to more when time permits for you! Jay

You're welcome Paddy, and thank you Kester! Jay

Kester, I really liked Captain Courageous as well, but my avatar is a photo by Wallace MacAskill. Some of his most famous photos are of the Bluenose; his photos of the Bluenose were the inspirations for Canada's famous .50 Bluenose stamp as well as .10 cent coin. Here's a link to his work if you'd like to see more of his photos: http://gov.ns.ca/nsarm/virtual/macaskill/ Jay

Max, in addition to Andy's excellent suggestions and advice, you might like to give some consideration to a few of Krick's (Krick is a German company) kits like the Alert: http://www.krickshop.de/Produkte/Standmodelle/Bausaetze/Schiffsmodelle/Alert-Zollkutter-Baukasten.htm?shop=krick&SessionId=2693xd0b22f40316454d97eb48f896f31f659&a=article&ProdNr=20240&t=35&c=85&p=85 Jay

Stunning revelation, Hank--thank you for sharing this profoundly disturbing and eye-opening clip! Jay

It's always a pleasure reading your retrospective log Kester. I really like how you did the furled sail--it came out beautifully, and using copper for the hoops was a wonderful idea! Your craftsmanship and and research are superb! I hope you don't mind my mentioning this in your log, but wanted to let Paddy know (since he's also a follower of you build, too) that he can purchase Caldercraft kits from Ages of Sail in the US. Also, having them shipped from Cornwall Boats in the UK to the Staes often is about the same total cost as Ages of Sail. I purchased my Sherbourne from Cornwall, as I also ordered a few extras that Ages didn't stock. Looking forward to your next installment! Jay

John and Wayne, thanks for info. for ordering plans! I agree with what everyone else has shared about making these types of resources known and more accessible. It's a pity all those models are where no one can see or appreciate them. At the very least, putting photos out to the public would be a nice start (the 360 type are great). On the flip side, it may simply cost too much money--if so, what a shame. Makes you wonder how many other treasures are sitting in storage vaults... Jay

Wow, sounds like a great place John! Can folks purchase plan copies? What a great trip you're having...hmm, definitely would like to give it a visit--esp. To see the models. Jay

Wow, beautiful workmanship! Jay

John, thanks for posting all these great pictures during your road trip! It's been years since I was last in Mystic--next time I'm back there, I'll have to spend a day or so at the museum. Sounds like you and your admiral are having a great time! Jay

I'm with you, Sam: I don't think I would have pulled them either--probably cause more damage than the "sweating." Painting sounds like the way to go, esp. if you can neutralize the reaction. Hopefully Keith will have a trick up the sleeve on how to neutralize what's going on. Hope it all works out for you and your build, Sam! Jay

I read Keith's responses; at this point, Sam do you think you'll pull 'em from the build and re-do them? Can see that, that may be a very tough call since they're epoxied. Jay

Thanks for sharing, Pete; like bigcreekdad I'm learning the ropes with my Jim saw so the pictures and tips are very helpful. Jay

AL kit...you're better off without finding the instructions...they'll just tell you stuff that's wrong, leave key details out, or otherwise lead you astray! Seriously, congrats on the shrouds and rats--well done, and I hope the rest of the rigging goes smoothly for you! Jay

No worries, Sam --you did the work by the numbers! Maybe sending a PM to the "themadchemist"? Keith's a chemist and perhaps he can tell you what's going on and give a few suggestions for a fix. Jay

To add to Druxey's excellent questions, if it is brass, did you pre-treat the metal before you blackened it? Some brass will have a protective coating on it to keep the brass looking bright. This coating has to be removed from brass before blackening. Pre-soaking in a mild acid, rinsing with water, and then cleaning with mild soap and then another rise will usually do the trick. Since I hard solder my metal work, I have picking solution, which is a stronger acid. A soak in this for just a few minutes will remove a coating. After that, I wear nitrile gloves to rise and clean the item to keep my hand oils from contaminating the object. Jay