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Jay 1

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Everything posted by Jay 1

  1. Wow, sounds like a great place John! Can folks purchase plan copies? What a great trip you're having...hmm, definitely would like to give it a visit--esp. To see the models. Jay
  2. John, thanks for posting all these great pictures during your road trip! It's been years since I was last in Mystic--next time I'm back there, I'll have to spend a day or so at the museum. Sounds like you and your admiral are having a great time! Jay
  3. I'm with you, Sam: I don't think I would have pulled them either--probably cause more damage than the "sweating." Painting sounds like the way to go, esp. if you can neutralize the reaction. Hopefully Keith will have a trick up the sleeve on how to neutralize what's going on. Hope it all works out for you and your build, Sam! Jay
  4. I read Keith's responses; at this point, Sam do you think you'll pull 'em from the build and re-do them? Can see that, that may be a very tough call since they're epoxied. Jay
  5. Thanks for sharing, Pete; like bigcreekdad I'm learning the ropes with my Jim saw so the pictures and tips are very helpful. Jay
  6. AL kit...you're better off without finding the instructions...they'll just tell you stuff that's wrong, leave key details out, or otherwise lead you astray! Seriously, congrats on the shrouds and rats--well done, and I hope the rest of the rigging goes smoothly for you! Jay
  7. No worries, Sam --you did the work by the numbers! Maybe sending a PM to the "themadchemist"? Keith's a chemist and perhaps he can tell you what's going on and give a few suggestions for a fix. Jay
  8. To add to Druxey's excellent questions, if it is brass, did you pre-treat the metal before you blackened it? Some brass will have a protective coating on it to keep the brass looking bright. This coating has to be removed from brass before blackening. Pre-soaking in a mild acid, rinsing with water, and then cleaning with mild soap and then another rise will usually do the trick. Since I hard solder my metal work, I have picking solution, which is a stronger acid. A soak in this for just a few minutes will remove a coating. After that, I wear nitrile gloves to rise and clean the item to keep my hand oils from contaminating the object. Jay
  9. Robbyn, here are a few things that are so great about first builds: We learn new skills and subject matter, we discover our strengths and areas for improvement as model shipwrights, we meet and make new friends, we can share what we've learned with others, and so much more. They also can open our eyes to how we treat ourselves: Would we tell to someone else what we say to ourselves about our builds? I once heard a long time ago that a miracle is a change in one's perspective. Your build looks great--look at all the positives that its brought into your life! I'm willing to betcha all those far outweigh a few minor hiccups. Yep, these first builds are awesome, and it's great to see you embracing yours--well done, hand buddy! Jay
  10. Drats about the mishap, but looks like you made a great recovery--she's looking fantastic John! Jay
  11. Glad eBay worked out for getting the kit, and looks like you're off to a great start, John! Plenty of great help on the forum--it's been a huge help on my builds. Jay
  12. Thanks Robbyn--I couldn't quite tell if they were hemostats. You're right, they're awesome (I collected a few more after the initial stitches were put in my hand prior to surgery--my smart sister asked for them...lol)! Would love to find long, no teeth, light weight clips--perfect for rigging! Good-o on the putty--looks like it worked out great! Jay
  13. Looks good Robbyn--glad you found a solution for the deadeyes/shrouds! Fabric glues (gs-hypo & etc.) are good alternatives, too. They dry fairly fast and usually are clear. I like the long alligator-looking clips you're using--what are they please? Thanks for the photos and glad things are moving ahead for you! Oh, yeah probably more rain is headed your way--we're getting it again today... Jay
  14. Sure--they're great glues for POF & POB builds. Indeed, PVA glues are the glues of choice for building ships. Elmer's, Gorilla, and TiteBond (I personally like TiteBond) to name a few, are all excellent choices. Indeed, most builders don't use CA at all or very rarely. PVAs take more time to cure; however, they're much easier to de-bond when goofs happen. Jay
  15. Elia, I've seen it done on other model building sites (may want to give the subject a Google). Basically you prime, then use darker & then lighter shades of browns. Leave brush marks if you want to simulate grain. Given the sizes of most blocks, I'm not sure how well the technique will work--you'll likely have to experiment to see what may work. Jay
  16. It's one of my regularly used tools--love it that it does mm, decimals, & fractions. Am considering a similar height gauge, too--nice for setting up tools and probably waterlines, too. Jay
  17. A nice addition for any type of heated plank bender (I use ME's also along with an Aeropiccola bender) is this temp control. I found one on eBay for a very reasonable price--they're spendy if you purchase one new. However, it's really nice for ensuring you don't scorch or too quickly dry out wood you're forming a bend in. http://products.mmnewman.com/item/hot-tools/dial-temp-for-hot-tools/item-1782? Jay
  18. Wefalck, that's an awesome idea--thank you for sharing it with us! Jay
  19. Jim, in addition to the OSSs, I know there will be many who'd buy a serving machine. Features like being able to lock in position both the line being served and the serving line feed would be nice--this would keep tension on both lines while freeing one's hands to tie off, glue, cut or etc. a finished line that's been served. Having hook attachments for seizing blocks would be great. A tensioned feed system for the serving line would be another nice feature (would work well with a locking setup). Having one end be moveable would be great, too; then one could move it toward the other end for seizing blocks or etc. Many machines require wrapping the running end of the line being served around crank spindles or etc.--a spool to hold and secure the running line would likely be a nicer alternative and keep line out of gears and etc. OK I'll shut up... Jay
  20. Great catch and recovery, Sumner; your fix looks really good! I'm now really holding off with doing much on the build until I get more info. Hopefully I'll be up and running with drafting software fairly soon--I'm definitely checking that stern bulkhead piece before I do any gluing. There are a number of other things I want to get more info. on, too--particularly the stern companionway. Looking forward to seeing your 2nd planking! Jay
  21. Thanks Brian--think I know what's going to be my next tool purchase!
  22. Thanks Brian--just did a MSW search--they look great. I've been using an old contraption (an old Dobson "string-a-long") that's not so great... Is there much twisting to the line that's being seized? Jay
  23. While it's not powered, a seizing machine, with a take spool for the seizing thread, to go with your ropewalk would be an awesome tool! Jay
  24. Hi Sumner, Thanks for posting the Alert links--very nice! After reading Gregor's post in my log and yours, I'm holding off on doing much building until I can get lines off the plans. I'm guessing it'll be at least a couple of weeks before I have plans and the lines taken off of them, but I'll definitely post what I find out. Not sure if you saw my log post about the Fly's plans at the NMM, but the plans show the tiller position (http://prints.rmg.co.uk/art/491174/Fly_1763) in relation to the companionway. I bet you're right about the knees--Gregor also mentioned there were issues with the stern, too. Lol about re-building! I learned the hard way from my early builds to not use CA--it's a bear when it comes to tearing apart something that needs to be rebuilt... Cheers, Jay
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