Captain Poison

The area between the cheeks have three laser cut layers.  They are very thin.  They vary in length.  Note below how the top edge of these three layers runs along the top of the black strake.  This might vary because I have no idea where your black strake is and if it deviated from the plans a bit you will need to get creative.  We can talk about that.  But its not the end of the world.  Hopefully you guys will read through the entire process and take more measurements before you get this far.   These pieces along with the headrails are probably some of the most complicated parts of a model project.
 
All three layers were pre bent with heat (hair dryer).  I sanded of the laser char and softened the aft edges of all the layers.  Each layer was added one at a time.  The final layer has the size and location for the hawse holes.   More on that later..

Next is the upper cheek...You should have beveled this like the lower cheek.  This one should go easier.  Note how it wraps onto the stem.  It doesnt extend above the top of the stem.  This upper cheek is also shorter on the hull as you can see.
 

You can sense the repetition....
 
Then the upper hair bracket.  Again it was designed a lot longer than you need.   Add the figure head and determine its length.   Cut it so you get a clean tight joint with the cheek.  
 

Double check your work.....do or die so to speak.   If your measurements worked out the carving should fit perfectly with a bit of room to spare between the hair brackets.  If not you could always tweak the carving so it fits as best it can.
 

Almost done now....
 
In the next photo you can see three more parts I added.   I will explain each to you but please refer back to this photo below for its position etc.
 

First is the short decorative molding along the front of the figures leg.  This is laser cut for you.  Round off the edges along its length.  Clean up the char as usual.  Its a little long and once again its best to put the figurehead in position.  Then test the fit of this molding.  Cut it to fit and glue it in position while the figurehead is temporarily in place as a guide.  It goes from the foot up to just under the skirt.
 
Next up is the bolster.  The bolster is pretty thick and laser cut for you.  Its an 1/8" thick.   This piece is too short and too thick to pre-bend.   Thats why it was layer cut 1/8" thick.   You will need to sand it to the curved shape so it fits against the hull.  You can see where it goes in that photo.  It sits between the cheeks on top of the lower cheek.   Start by sanding the back side to fit snug against the hull.   Get it nice and snug with no gaps.   The photo below shows one bolster shaped.  It will get pretty thin by the time its all shaped correctly.  Probably just a but thinner than 3/32".   It depends on how deep your cheeks ended up after your beveling and shaping of those.
 
Then shape the forward side keeping it a consistent thickness.   To finish it up round off the top edge as shown.  IMPORTANT NOTE:  Do not glue this in position.  Just make sure it fits and looks good sitting on the cheeks.  You dont want this glued on when you drill out the hawse holes.  We will be doing that next.   They would certainly get damaged. 

And then the wash cant.....The wash cant is rarely seen on any kit.  If you look at that photo you can see it temporarily tacked in position.  It sits on the underside of the lower cheek.  ....in the corner where the hull and stem meet.  It helps deflect the water and waves.   You need to sand this odd shaped piece.  Its hard to describe.  The front edge is like a knifes edge.  Sand the entire piece by rounding it off to a knifes edge along the front edge.   This will be painted black but I show it natural in the photo because you wouldnt have been able to see it.   I have since painted it black and glued it back into position.  
 
The photo below shows one of them shaped and ready for painting.
 

And here is that last picture again to show the placement of those last parts...

Now I know this looks complex.  That is because it is.   You will not see any other kit with this much detail.  Even those Chinese POF kits that everyone raves about do a rather crappy job with their headrails and cheeks.  But this is a pretty close representation to any contemporary model you might examine for an English frigate.  I know you guys can do it.  
 
I could have cut many corners and gone with something simplified and kit-like.  But I think its something you will be proud of once you finish.   Just take it slow and do lots of measuring......lots of testing.....repeat and repeat again.   Just wait till we get to the head rails....good times!!!
 

I remember when I built the CWM and put the rudders inside the boat, three harpoons, ropes and six oars, a bucket, a small flag on its post to mark the dead whales.. And I did it in the six boats, of course this in the modeller to detail even more equipment.
As to how the rudder was secured a clue could be the AL kit.

Tim
 
Very.... very..... nice work. So educational. You took your time to explain every step. Thanks a lot
 
nothing to compare with mine. At the present I followed your advice I’m posting a log about my present work. The St Caterina. 
 
thanks again
 
this my final result in my longboat
 

The slow detail work.

Because the question of choosing which wood to use for model ship building comes and comes again, I wanted to write another page about it.
 
At the end, the choice you will do will be a personal choice as many activities like you can prefer to cut a plank with a hand saw or an electric saw. There is no good or bad choice, it is a strictly a personal choice guided by our preferences.
 
Here is why I chose cherry wood to be the only wood I use for model ship building.

You applied primer-sealer first? That could be one cause for blistering.

You applied primer-sealer first? That could be one cause for blistering.

You applied primer-sealer first? That could be one cause for blistering.

You applied primer-sealer first? That could be one cause for blistering.

Gentlemen,
I slowed down a bit , made some dust. I corrected stern and removed 2 planks that go later on. I feel i must clarify my approach before it causes some misunderstanding...
I said i dont have or intend to build Winnie to Chucks highest expectations with all fancy bells and whistles along the way as I am limitated by material I have or I will try to make myself...its all learning and part  of fun isnt it? that It suppsed to be. I mean of course i will follow plan as close as possible and best i can. But i reserve for myself to make here and there shortcuts where it is covered by sticker or something like that.  To clarify that it is not to show some sort of ignorance or harming Winnie - well from ones  view it can be seem like that but i will reserve that opinion to oneself. I probably even shouldnt be here as this is advanced modeling and i am just a beginner though. So what the point of learning than? Well plenty - i learn proper planking and i go according to plan Chucks and your guidance guys. I dont have different planks than 6 mm - but i have those for entire boat so i had to accomidate thin 3 mm strike along to fit the measuring - it ensured that very top plank lines perfectly up to the toprail - again this whole will be thankfully covered by frezie sticker so i am happy that thin strake wont be seen. that strak is from Chucks cedar 3rd part so I can say that my Winnie has got original wood - its still plenty there left  for fancy mouldings....so ...I  did my best at upper planking. I dint have different measure timbers nor wider one so i couldnt try to do those fancy angles around port openings...i can live with that. Went slowly  and tried to seam tightly and  tried to cut gunports openings as precisely as possible. It was quite challenging. After two or thre I found a way how to mark and cut and It went better... I cant do better i guess  for all i wrote i would say i can live with something like my own Winnie, probably ugly duck sort of for small shotcuts, but I would like Chuck to put up with some small hidden shortcuts ...  as much as those will do the exact or good for  winnie or shortuts where those can be - but i state it is not something to be followed.  
 
...so first  coat is on now black line to follow for next few days  first I have to make those two planks that narrows into one - as I will make 2 more lines downwards the hull and - for that narrow ones  i had to order an extra wood. i also need to sand off some center of bulkheads for marks i will need to make later. that would be counting and recounting as my wide is hust a tad wiser than supoosed to...i would sand off atill a little on a port side bow but im scared i took alread too much so i dont want to hollow that plank entirely. that was a mistake i made as port opening glued off and i put it back a littel too much elaning out so those two planks didnt meet exactly rather way off...also two planks at starboard bow side are not as tight as should be - after sanding it is now visible ... seam a bit thicer.this is hell of a price to pay to each unfocus  on this job  grrr. photography is a sharp and uncompromising judge - sight can forgive a lot. 
and You can see I crushed one part of bollard :(( but i hope to repair it and glue that corner back shouldnt be that tough...fingers crossed. I dont consider black line sifficult after I finised all this. that is for couple of days now. good luck with all yours!  sorry for elaborate..)) 

The shell room has 6 racks for the mortar shells. Each rack has 3 pillars and 4 shelves. The pillars sit on the lower support beams directly over the floor riders. The shells are 3/8" wooden balls that I dyed black.

Good Evening- This ship model was on the fireplace mantle while I was growing up until it was sadly damaged and the rigging lost. I still have the solid wood hull and some of the attaching parts pictured.
 
This model does not appear to have a high level of finish and most components appeared to have been nailed to the hull.  The base has some writing (hard to read) penciled underneath:
 
KAMIHS (?)
Thompson Me
1874
Capt Meil (?)
 
I have been planning a rebuild for years and now looking to Model Ship World for information on a sail plan that may be close enough to use as a guide. To my eye, the size and scale of 1:96 Flying Fish looks close but I will defer to more experienced modelers.
I have tools, some patience and experience building model kits since I was a kid,  so looking for your insights and experience before I muck the whole thing up.   
 Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
 
Bob
 

The planks that go around the mast partners and coamings are difficult to make and took some careful planning. In a failed attempt, I tried to make all the cutouts at one time. Rather than waste more wood, I decided to make card stock templates that closely matched the area being worked on. The plan was to work one tab at a time. Once a tab was completed, I would then move onto the next tab.
 

 

 
This template was tricky because it required spanning two tabs in order to establish the proper shape. Notice how the tab tapers in width.

 
When it came time to glue, I adhered a short section of the plank to the false deck. This would make it easier to finish up the remaining unglued areas afterwards. Softer wood strips were used as clamps against the margin plank.

 
Once the glue was set, I moved onto gluing the remaining areas of the plank.

 
Pillar files and a sanding stick were used to shape the parts. Sticky back sandpaper was adhered to the stick and sanded flush with its edge.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
Mike
 
 

Once the artillery was finished, I mounted the rudder and started the shroud holders:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

small advances:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After casting the 8 lb guns I had to redo the silicone rubber mold for the 18 lb guns:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The big and the small capstan:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Little bit more this W/e. 

Dear friends, I do appreciate your comments and support. Thank you all very much.
 
Well, I am not sure I will start with new projects in future. I have lost motivation and enthusiasm,  always shared it with my husband and created the models also for him - he supported me a lot and loved what I did. Now I'm finishing my best model - the Royal Katherine and definitely don't want to give it up.
I added the bonnet under the fore course to achieve another detail for better realism. A followed these drawings from Lees´ book:
 

 
 
 
Now I am working on four anchors, they will be made of card.
 
 
Best regards,
Doris
 
 

Hello modeling friends.
I wish everyone a successful 2021.
Most of all, stay healthy.
Karl
 
Update
 
   
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My paint came a day early! I was too excited so I painted the wales with many thin coats today.
 

 
Even my son helped!

 
He was very proud of himself for helping to paint . He did a great job if I do say so myself!
 
After cleaning it up some, I am really happy with the result!  I don't care as much about the top because the black strake will cover the little spill over.  I need to make the black strake strips so that will be done this week.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
I do need to clean up a few places here and there, but its mostly completed!
 
Thanks everyone for the nice comments and likes!
 
Jeff
 
 

All that remains is to add anchors and flags.
 

 
 
The crew was originally supposed to be on the model, unfortunately I was struck by a very cruel life event, when my husband died a few months ago and it changed a lot in my life. There will be only two figures on the model that will symbolize me and my husband, it is a remembrance and a tribute to the best person I have ever known and spent with him more than 20 years. He had a wish for me to successfully complete the Royal Katherine, and I want to fulfill his wish as best as possible.
 
Doris

Almost complete running rigging:

 
Here you can see how big the model really is - towards its builder:
 

Thank you Alex M, I have to say I learned many things from you.
Forecastle and quarter deck beams preparation - hatchway openings, capstan steps and mast wedges.

Thanks so much, druxey, and a better new year for all of us!
 
I proceeded with the spline idea. A little jig for the mill made quick work of the slots in the standards themselves:


 
For the slots in the deck beams, I made a little marking jig, ensuring the slots would be laid out parallel to the sides of the beam, on the center line, and also the correct distance from the end of the standard. Then a few holed drilled out to hog out the main waste, and then chisel work to clean up.
 


 
I did discover a slight flaw in my plan. If I made the splines as long as I had expected, the standard could not fit over the spline and then slide under the upper deck clamp. So I had to shorten the splines and keep them as far out from the sides as possible. This allows me to fit the standard down on the spline, and then slide into position while completely flat on the beam. But still more than enough area for gluing.
 
Three down, just 19 to go....
 
Mark