Captain Poison

You applied primer-sealer first? That could be one cause for blistering.

Gentlemen,
I slowed down a bit , made some dust. I corrected stern and removed 2 planks that go later on. I feel i must clarify my approach before it causes some misunderstanding...
I said i dont have or intend to build Winnie to Chucks highest expectations with all fancy bells and whistles along the way as I am limitated by material I have or I will try to make myself...its all learning and part  of fun isnt it? that It suppsed to be. I mean of course i will follow plan as close as possible and best i can. But i reserve for myself to make here and there shortcuts where it is covered by sticker or something like that.  To clarify that it is not to show some sort of ignorance or harming Winnie - well from ones  view it can be seem like that but i will reserve that opinion to oneself. I probably even shouldnt be here as this is advanced modeling and i am just a beginner though. So what the point of learning than? Well plenty - i learn proper planking and i go according to plan Chucks and your guidance guys. I dont have different planks than 6 mm - but i have those for entire boat so i had to accomidate thin 3 mm strike along to fit the measuring - it ensured that very top plank lines perfectly up to the toprail - again this whole will be thankfully covered by frezie sticker so i am happy that thin strake wont be seen. that strak is from Chucks cedar 3rd part so I can say that my Winnie has got original wood - its still plenty there left  for fancy mouldings....so ...I  did my best at upper planking. I dint have different measure timbers nor wider one so i couldnt try to do those fancy angles around port openings...i can live with that. Went slowly  and tried to seam tightly and  tried to cut gunports openings as precisely as possible. It was quite challenging. After two or thre I found a way how to mark and cut and It went better... I cant do better i guess  for all i wrote i would say i can live with something like my own Winnie, probably ugly duck sort of for small shotcuts, but I would like Chuck to put up with some small hidden shortcuts ...  as much as those will do the exact or good for  winnie or shortuts where those can be - but i state it is not something to be followed.  
 
...so first  coat is on now black line to follow for next few days  first I have to make those two planks that narrows into one - as I will make 2 more lines downwards the hull and - for that narrow ones  i had to order an extra wood. i also need to sand off some center of bulkheads for marks i will need to make later. that would be counting and recounting as my wide is hust a tad wiser than supoosed to...i would sand off atill a little on a port side bow but im scared i took alread too much so i dont want to hollow that plank entirely. that was a mistake i made as port opening glued off and i put it back a littel too much elaning out so those two planks didnt meet exactly rather way off...also two planks at starboard bow side are not as tight as should be - after sanding it is now visible ... seam a bit thicer.this is hell of a price to pay to each unfocus  on this job  grrr. photography is a sharp and uncompromising judge - sight can forgive a lot. 
and You can see I crushed one part of bollard :(( but i hope to repair it and glue that corner back shouldnt be that tough...fingers crossed. I dont consider black line sifficult after I finised all this. that is for couple of days now. good luck with all yours!  sorry for elaborate..)) 

The shell room has 6 racks for the mortar shells. Each rack has 3 pillars and 4 shelves. The pillars sit on the lower support beams directly over the floor riders. The shells are 3/8" wooden balls that I dyed black.

Good Evening- This ship model was on the fireplace mantle while I was growing up until it was sadly damaged and the rigging lost. I still have the solid wood hull and some of the attaching parts pictured.
 
This model does not appear to have a high level of finish and most components appeared to have been nailed to the hull.  The base has some writing (hard to read) penciled underneath:
 
KAMIHS (?)
Thompson Me
1874
Capt Meil (?)
 
I have been planning a rebuild for years and now looking to Model Ship World for information on a sail plan that may be close enough to use as a guide. To my eye, the size and scale of 1:96 Flying Fish looks close but I will defer to more experienced modelers.
I have tools, some patience and experience building model kits since I was a kid,  so looking for your insights and experience before I muck the whole thing up.   
 Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
 
Bob
 

The planks that go around the mast partners and coamings are difficult to make and took some careful planning. In a failed attempt, I tried to make all the cutouts at one time. Rather than waste more wood, I decided to make card stock templates that closely matched the area being worked on. The plan was to work one tab at a time. Once a tab was completed, I would then move onto the next tab.
 

 

 
This template was tricky because it required spanning two tabs in order to establish the proper shape. Notice how the tab tapers in width.

 
When it came time to glue, I adhered a short section of the plank to the false deck. This would make it easier to finish up the remaining unglued areas afterwards. Softer wood strips were used as clamps against the margin plank.

 
Once the glue was set, I moved onto gluing the remaining areas of the plank.

 
Pillar files and a sanding stick were used to shape the parts. Sticky back sandpaper was adhered to the stick and sanded flush with its edge.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
Mike
 
 

Once the artillery was finished, I mounted the rudder and started the shroud holders:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

small advances:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After casting the 8 lb guns I had to redo the silicone rubber mold for the 18 lb guns:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The big and the small capstan:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Little bit more this W/e. 

Dear friends, I do appreciate your comments and support. Thank you all very much.
 
Well, I am not sure I will start with new projects in future. I have lost motivation and enthusiasm,  always shared it with my husband and created the models also for him - he supported me a lot and loved what I did. Now I'm finishing my best model - the Royal Katherine and definitely don't want to give it up.
I added the bonnet under the fore course to achieve another detail for better realism. A followed these drawings from Lees´ book:
 

 
 
 
Now I am working on four anchors, they will be made of card.
 
 
Best regards,
Doris
 
 

Hello modeling friends.
I wish everyone a successful 2021.
Most of all, stay healthy.
Karl
 
Update
 
   
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My paint came a day early! I was too excited so I painted the wales with many thin coats today.
 

 
Even my son helped!

 
He was very proud of himself for helping to paint . He did a great job if I do say so myself!
 
After cleaning it up some, I am really happy with the result!  I don't care as much about the top because the black strake will cover the little spill over.  I need to make the black strake strips so that will be done this week.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
I do need to clean up a few places here and there, but its mostly completed!
 
Thanks everyone for the nice comments and likes!
 
Jeff
 
 

All that remains is to add anchors and flags.
 

 
 
The crew was originally supposed to be on the model, unfortunately I was struck by a very cruel life event, when my husband died a few months ago and it changed a lot in my life. There will be only two figures on the model that will symbolize me and my husband, it is a remembrance and a tribute to the best person I have ever known and spent with him more than 20 years. He had a wish for me to successfully complete the Royal Katherine, and I want to fulfill his wish as best as possible.
 
Doris

Almost complete running rigging:

 
Here you can see how big the model really is - towards its builder:
 

Thank you Alex M, I have to say I learned many things from you.
Forecastle and quarter deck beams preparation - hatchway openings, capstan steps and mast wedges.

Thanks so much, druxey, and a better new year for all of us!
 
I proceeded with the spline idea. A little jig for the mill made quick work of the slots in the standards themselves:


 
For the slots in the deck beams, I made a little marking jig, ensuring the slots would be laid out parallel to the sides of the beam, on the center line, and also the correct distance from the end of the standard. Then a few holed drilled out to hog out the main waste, and then chisel work to clean up.
 


 
I did discover a slight flaw in my plan. If I made the splines as long as I had expected, the standard could not fit over the spline and then slide under the upper deck clamp. So I had to shorten the splines and keep them as far out from the sides as possible. This allows me to fit the standard down on the spline, and then slide into position while completely flat on the beam. But still more than enough area for gluing.
 
Three down, just 19 to go....
 
Mark
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

First planking complete and sanded smooth. This is 1mm thick x 5mm wide limewood, much easier to work with than 1.5mm thick lime (Took a day to plank and 20 minutes to sand). Hull lines are quite planking friendly, so not much overlap to sand. No changes needed for the bulkheads, as all planks sit just right on each, so this means I have no more work to do on main skeletal structure. No gun ports to mark out and cut out, too, they will just need a slight file so they are flush with the main frames.

Port lids are all done.....they take longer than you think. 😊
 
So now the two ladders for the gundeck.  The thing about ladders on commercial kits is they are usually so out of scale.  You must consider that the ladders or steps were made much as they are today.  They are made from 2" thick stock.  So that translates to just 1/32" thick at this scale.  Most kits provide parts double the thickness so its like they used a 4 x 4 to make the stairs which looks pretty horrible.  I was also never happy with their shape which was usually very generic and not at all like they are shown on good contemporary examples and plans.
 
So I worked up a simple design but they can be finicky to build.   So this is how I managed these.
 
First I sanded both sides of the sheet to remove any char before the parts were removed from the sheet.  The photo shows the prototype build and now I will make another to show you how its done.  The edges were sanded free of char.....these are made from boxwood.   I have laser etched mortices to accept the stairs.  So first thing you should check is the fit of the sides of the steps in the mortices.  If they are too thick....simply knock off the corner or bevel the edge of the steps ever so slightly.  Not too much and dont touch the little "wings" protruding from the front of each step.   I also did not remove any char from the side edges of the steps as I want them all the same length exactly.   This is important.   I started by adding the top and bottom step to one side of the ladder.  I got a nice fit into the mortice after just lightly beveling the edge of the steps.

Then I added the other side of the ladder and made sure the glue was dry before handling it further.....otherwise it could fall apart easy.  Remember these are just 1/32" thick.
 

Finally I beveled the side edges of ever remaining step and slid them in position after applying a small drop of glue to each edge.   They slid right into place without much trouble.  Once you do one or two it gets easier......straight in and back.

The top step is a bit wide which you will soon discover so at this stage I used a sanding stick to sand it flush on the back side of the step.  Then to finish it off I sanded the sides of the ladder to make those little "wings" on each step flush with the sides of the ladder.   I hope that makes sense as I left them a bit longer so they would need to be finish-sanded.
 
Thats it.....
 
But the larger hatch mid-ship has a double ladder.  Its built  basically the same way.   The top and bottom step first.    But then I slipped the center riser in position as well.

Then its just a matter of slipping the remaining steps into position.   With each step added, the entire assembly gets stronger.   Finish sand the sides and that top step and its all done.  You can see how the front of each step has just a slight curve to it......not too much.  When finished these are light and elegant.   It is important to have them look this way.

Apply some WOP and then glue them into position in each companionway.   See  below.


Next up its time to add some cleats and bolts to the bulwarks.  Yippie.  Any questions???
 

Thanks Dirk, Mark, Eric and OC. Also for all of the likes.
 
Well this project is now declared completed! It was a fantastic build and I had a lot of fun doing it.
I listed it as a scratch build but it was less scratch and more build. As this was a Syren Ship Models product
I wanted to try out as many of the laser cut products Chuck made available. From the bulkheads
to the windlass to the anchors and to all the rest of the "mini kits" I did not find fault with anyone of them.
They were very well made and each a pleasure to build. Of course the plans and instructions were
first rate too!
 
Well here are some pics of the finished model.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Post 46: Chase guns
 
The two 6 pound chase guns on the fore-deck were constructed the in same way as the carronades except that I made the breech rope a little longer since the barrels are longer.  Using the rule of thumb of 3X the barrel length gives about 110 mm.  This seemed a little long and 90 mm would seem to clear the bulwark on recoil so this was the length that I used.
 

 
John
 

A patient day of final shaping of the standards, and making bolts. Starboard done today, port tomorrow. then clear finish and final installation at last!
 
The Foredom drill press converted to a sander worked very well for final shaping.
 

 

 

 

 

Sorry about the gap in reporting.  I have attached all the shrouds and begun the laborious task of tying all the ratlines...there are a lot. I used 0.25mm natural line which I stained in India Ink.  Each individual line was run through a beeswax block to add a little wax and eliminate line kinks, the wax also helped the knots (clove hitches) slide together by reducing friction.  I set each line at 6mm and used two methods to get the spacing correct.  One option was to use a couple of pieces of 6mm plank held onto the shrouds by pegs. This method did allow all the knots even in size and the line straight as I could rest the knots on the wood which gave a little substance to the operation but was slow(ish) - if not correctly tightened the pieces of wood force the knot down the shroud - I did  three lines and then washed them with dilute PVA, allow it to dry before starting the next group.  By alternating between the three sets of shrouds, I was able to keep tying as the glue dried.  I became reasonably efficient.    For the main mast shrouds I used a printed sheet cut to shape with a matrix of lines against which I could place my knots: reasonably efficient although you do have to be careful not to knock/misalign the paper. 
 
Do avoid my school boy error.  I set up a table in a word document with 6mm squares or so I thought. In fact my printed sheet came out 5mm by 6mm which I didn't notice until I was half way up the shroud...I had placed 30 odd lines at 5mm apart.  I left them as is and copied the spacing on the opposite side.  You cant notice the difference although it did mean a lot more knots.   
 
Nearly finished.     

Yesterday I had a small amount of stock for a selected few Blomefield pattern cannon.
 
I will be having more sizes made in the future, but what I have now is shown in the line drawings. These are 3-d printed and are of a dull black colour. I will be using the 9 pounder Armstrong shorts for Sphinx.
 
These (Blomefield) were introduced in around 1795, so it is very probable that if the model you are making was launched around this time, it would have had the newer Blomefield pattern. However, I would assume that older ships that were still active after this date would have kept their original armament throughout their operational careers (Armstrong pattern).
 
I will get some pics of the castings soon.
 
Cannon Carriage and gun sets (Blomefield) – VANGUARD MODELS

Merry Christmas to all of you.
I hope you are enjoying some time with your shipmodels. My wife got me an incredible book about the shipmodels of the musee de la marine in Paris. Looking at the great cabin of the frigate "La Flore" makes me dreaming of finally continuing my Winchelsea!!! 

 
My rigging project made some Progress, but I am running out of blocks, so Winnie will continue soon.

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 
Matthias