Captain Poison

I’m at a really neat spot in this build.  There are about half a dozen things I can work on right now.  I have the Old Masters Gel Stain for the resin figures. I’m also starting the roof shingles.  The upright details on the Q galleries are a lot more challenging than I expected, so they’re going to take a lot of time and patience.  The starboard side gallery is waiting for a replacement part for the lower apron.  But I think it’s safe to put the commode in now, so I might do that soon.  I’m also working on scraping moldings.  It’s fun to have choices on what to do next.  Planking was a very serial process.

Scrubbyj427 - I am using pear wood (steamed and not steamed - different color) and black hornbeam.
Completion of the quarter gallery.

Ceiling in the wardroom and quarter gallery´s access door.

To Oliver1973 - The holder for Proxxon vice is selfmade (not my production).
I continue with rear windows (lights?).

Thank you guys for all your comments and likes.
To  scrubbyj427: I am using CNC maschine made by China, these maschines are avaiable worldwide (see the picture).
I started works on inner bulkheads.
 

Good morning.

Good morning.

Place some crude spaces at level of timberline. Intention to remove them later, but give stability for fairing etc
Not having use of thumb is somewhat restricting.
The jig reused upside down for the starboard side seemed to work ok when reset (what was the straight floor, now is sloping at timberline level) with some weights.
When the full set of cants fitted, jig removed and the result is not as good as expected.
The main problem seems to be the angle where the timber parts are glued.
I removed a couple of the worst offenders and checked them against the printed outlines-not so easy as they obscure the plan, and the cut outs can be distorted. Opening them and re gluing made some improvement, but “gradient” between the cants, seemed excessively uneven.
Decided to remove all cants #2to#12 and check and realign joints between timbers as required.Extending lines on the plans help this alignment.
Placed each cant in turn,checked alignment at timberline and “step” to previous(neighbouring) cant, and if still too uneven, modified the angle at the join slightly.
(the black square object is one of many old batteries I’ve collected over the years-stable,heavy and reliable rt. angle.)
This time the result is much better.
Fairing by hand. Wands and literally by hand on inner aspect ( a broken belt sander-stiff). Much to remove but this cherry is relatively soft compared to the Pau Marfim that I used for Oneida.
Left final smoothing until rest of framing complete with some internal “stiffening”
Some of the small fillers separated and it would have been better to stable with a trunnel.
Returned to working in clinic and less time to browse the internet, so only now caught up with Kevin’s video no. 12 and see he run into similar problems. Considering the high quality of his work, I feel less inadequate. Thank you.
PS last week or two, temperatures here fluctuate . 2 days ago on the beach, today cold and torrential rain. Not good for wood or glue.
PPS Happy Thanksgiving to our American friends.

Good morning and thank you all, Yves I prepare some photos then I put them.
More photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Mark, the last one are from a small action camera Go pro hero 9 with a standard lens, they also have another one that I did not try.
 
Camera is 1 thing, but not enough for the inside; lighting is also very important.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=photography+led+lighting&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
 
As an example, for around $100, you can have a decent LED lamp which compares to nothing as a standard working lamp. I learned to use these for photography and now I also use these to work. It is like trying to work on an height adjustable table. Ounce you tired it, you never go back on a standard 30 inch height table. Also you can see more details, details you would not see with an ordinary task lamp.
 
Finally, you can also take photo like the bell, lighting on the object only, and everything black around.

the bridge between the front and aft of the deck

Good morning thanks Ekis and thanks to everyone, more photos.
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

One side lower ratlines done. Off to other side. Amazing how after 100+ knots you get hang of it  .
 
At some point i also have to finish my last bits and pieces-last cannon, rudder rigging to wheel etc....for some reason i have postponed it. Probably the reason might be as im too impatient to see my ship partially rigged  
 
Admiral also asked when it will be ready, said February maybe and reaction was ohhh so soon...
 
Question-easiest way to clean off all the dust besides brush-compressed air meant for keyboards?

Post 42: Mounting the Carronades
 
Time to mount the carronades on the deck.  But first a couple of points I failed to mention earlier.
 
Blackening, the guns
 
The guns were blackened by the method suggested by chuck involving spraying with black paint (Vallejo warm black in my case) and then brushing with Rusty Brown weathering powder.
 

 
I have some etch primer for brass  but I find that it is quite viscous and destroys the detail a bit.  So I spayed the black directly on the brass cannons after washing them in soap and water and then a dip in acetone.  Because the coating is therefore a bit delicate, I gave them a final coating with matt lacquer. 
 
The final effect can be seen in earlier posts (38 and 41a)
 
Quoins
 
I avoided adding these until I had established the correct elevation of the guns.  I initially made the handles from wood which I thought were nicely to scale.  However they proved too fragile and broke at the slightest provocation.  They were a real pain to drill out and replace, especially if they were already glued to the carriage.  So in the end I replaced them with some slightly larger brass ones which I had obtained from Master Korabel.  They may be slightly over scale but at least they are more robust.
 

 
Mounting the Cannons
 
In post 41 you will see that the ring bolts for the bulwark are of the twisted pair type.  I am a bit paranoid about these pulling out.  They were shortened of course so as not to penetrate the hull planking. They fit tightly into a 0.6 mm hole which had been pre-drilled before the deck was planked.  A few that were a bit loose for some reason were  glued with a spot of epoxy.
 
The cannons were attached to the deck with a spot of PVA on the wheels.  This proved slightly problematic because although the seemed quite firm, a slight bump with my clumsy hands broke the bond.  The deck had a couple of coats of Poly so it was not really a wood to wood bond.  I notice that Stuntflyer pinned his rear wheels to the deck and I can see why he did that.  I decided that this was a lot of effort and just elected to reglue any that were dislodged. 
 
Here are the mounted cannons:
 

 
The next challenge is to make and fit the out-haul tackle.  I will need to think about this for a while.  I will be using Syren 3 mm blocks and 3mm hooks from Dafi.  These are pretty small for old hands!
 
John

Thanks for the likes; it continues to motivate.  Long update on pictures for what seems a very little amount of work today, but it feels like a critical milestone.  I installed the first plank under the gunports on each side and finally got everything level.  I thought everything was great yesterday, but turns out there was one small, but critical element off.
 
I'm much better with a knife than a file, so I found a process that works well for me.  I started by carefully carving out plank to match the gunports after making sure the plank was solidly in the rabbet.   
 

 
Then I used a scrap piece of 1/32" wood to rough in the boundaries of the ledge around the gunport.

 
I then cut out to the width of the ledge and finally just had to carve/file/sand another 1/32" deep across the width.

 
and the final result installed


Now this is where it gets interesting.  When I started carving out the 1st gunport on the port side, it seemed like I was removing a lot more wood than I had on the starboard side, but the plank still lined up properly at the bow and the 2nd gunport.  When cutting the gunport, I had sanded it excessively deeper than the starboard side, so all the measurements I had been doing had never taken into account that I'd taken almost 1/32" off the sill.  The notch in the picture only had to have the uprights cut out and be sanded smooth.  I didn't have to cut it any deeper  

 
Now I feel comfortable that the port and starboard sides are in alignment and looking forward to finishing the first run under the gunports tomorrow./

 

The stbd side was indeed a struggle, I won’t get into it too much but there was a lot of printing going on and some additional scraping and possibly some vocabulary, but it all worked out. Starting the transom this week and hoping to finish up chapter three within a couple weeks.
JJ

A dusty Sunday!  Got the bulkhead tops roughly sanded and squared up.


 
...and finally attacked the sanding of the interior bulkheads. I find that using a rolled up fluffy bath towel twisted double and held with a couple rubber bands makes the perfect sanding cradle. 
 

 

 
My main weapon of choice in sanding is an adhesive backed 120 grit rotary sanding pad doubled up on itself. I trimmed it to shape to allow me easy access across the entire inner bulkhead. Nice thing is it’s thick and holds its shape if you bend it to give it good curvature to reach those curvy areas near the bow. 
 
...and...more bonus pics...
 

 

 

 

 
Moving on!!!!
 
 
 

Hi everyone
First things first...Chuck, thank you for the very speedy delivery of my Chapter 4 parts and especially for the replacements you sent. When I messed up the first time I was heart broken. Well, second time around worked out OK I think. Between daily radiation and a dose of chemo, I finally got the keel together and the bulkheads glued in place. As per your suggestion I used a couple coats of satin wipe-on poly and it really makes the cedar pop. It's a beautiful color. Got a few bits of ply left to glue and then I get to fair the beast! Btw...anyone think we can stitch sail like this in 1/4 scale? (just kidding, thought this was amazing though)
 
 

*MAJOR UPDATE*
 
I've gotten a lot done since the last update, but as usual have been remiss with the uploading. Some of the deck details such as windlass, fife rails and fore companionway finished awhile ago, and I've just gotten around to installing them. I've also built the box for the anchor chain, and installed the anchor cable which is made with Syren rope. 
 
Masts were turned in an electric drill to taper and the details were added with brass and stripwood. The bands are actually painted paper, which was easier consdiering the taper in that area. The spreader lifts were made form boxwood, as they will take some strain during rigging and I was not going to trust basswood with that task. 
 
The plans are just fantastic with regard to the mast fitting details, and there are still some things to add. 
 

Anthony (and everyone else); SeaWatch is a small 'mom and pop' show. They have punched way over their weight for many years. The owner has had serious health problems, however everyone gets their books eventually. Please have some understanding and patience with them.
 
Also the USPS has, as you may know, some issues lately as well!

Received a package today from Chuck and got a few things assembled. Parts fit very well, I'm impressed with the accuracy of the laser cut parts and I"m even more impressed with the quality of the wood! Fantastic stuff!!

Very wise advice JJ.  I finished up the first run for all the gunports. It took a couple hours of walking away and coming back before I was happy and didn't have to touch anything up before installing the final planks.  Looking back, not sure why I found it so stressful.
 
Everything got a good sanding in preparation for the short runs between the ports, which should be pretty straightforward.  The Chop-It has been working great for the ones I've done so far.
 

 

 
As an aside, I don't know if it's the smell of the wood, but my cat is absolutely infatuated with the Winnie. 

 

To achieve milling and precision grinding.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

So I pretty much finished up the port side tonight aside from a few minor details. Scraped and fit the lower moldings and Added some WOP, that stuff really brings out a pretty color on the boxwood that looks great with the cedar.
 
 I’ve had constant anxiety for the last week thinking about how to get these mouldings on perfectly parallel and keeping with the sheer line and it just dawned on me about two hours ago to just clamp on a plank that perfectly follows the middle moulding and simply glue on from there. Seemed to work pretty well. Hope someone else can find it useful when they arrive at this stage.
JJ
 

Thank you Michael
 
 
 
But my photos are real stairs... In fact, one of the  the predefined goals for this build, is to be able to see inside the model ship. The first thing to get there; no deck planking; that is the easy part. trying to capture some photographs showing this, is a different approach. I am exploring 3 ways to look inside: from the top  at an angle between 30 and 45 degrees to try to see  multi level decks. Finding the perfect angle is not easy. Lastly photos inside the model with a small camera.
 
In fact, the inspiration probably came a long time ago, when I saw the 3D drawings of Boudriot in the 74 guns books which have many of these kinds of drawings which are "spectacular " to see.