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Well, that just looks/is awesome!

 

Ref: the last pic -

 

All that capability mounted on a 2 foot (?) square table.

 

What do you think the lathe's maximum acceptable depth of cut/feed rate -v- material is?

 

Congratulations on constructing a stunning multi-function workshop in such a small volume.

 

Best regards,

 

Richard

 

PS: Just out of curiosity, where is the 'emergency off' button?

 

Edited by Rik Thistle
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1 hour ago, Rik Thistle said:

Well, that just looks/is awesome!

 

Ref: the last pic -

 

All that capability mounted on a 2 foot (?) square table.

 

What do you think the lathe's maximum acceptable depth of cut/feed rate -v- material is?

 

Congratulations on constructing a stunning multi-function workshop in such a small volume.

 

Best regards,

 

Richard

 

PS: Just out of curiosity, where is the 'emergency off' button?

 

Hello, Richard. Thank you for the compliment. This two foot, 140kg machine, as you judge, uses the main structure of a horizontal milling machine, the lathe like thing you mentioned, and is the fourth axis specifically designed to process slender masts. The following slideways allow for fast manual movement, making it easier and more controllable to process polyhedra and tapered wooden masts. The stroke is 35 cm (total length up to 70 cm) ; the through hole in the middle of chuck can be passed through a mast with a maximum diameter of 28 mm, which, for me, has met all the processing needs of the 48 scale. In addition, the cutter head is replaced by a saw blade milling cutter, which can be used to process grille-like workpieces or various grooves. The sand table can be replaced by a digital ruler for precision grinding operation. As shown in the figure, a copper pin with a cap diameter of 1.2 mm can be machined polyhedron-like.At the back of the INVERTER, there is a earth leakage circuit-breaker to control the emergency shutdown of the whole machine.

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53 minutes ago, druxey said:

A serious piece of kit indeed. The square-headed nail is impressive.

 

Hello, druxey. I've been experimenting with ways to make tiny copper nails that are accurate, and while this is a tedious step, the most accurate I've been able to do so far. After all, I can't buy such a small polyhedron copper nail.

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hyw,

 

Thank you for answering all my questions.

 

My only comment would be that it is usually best to have the emergency-off switch on the front side of the machine so that you (or a colleague) don't have to lean over anything....my left thumb can tell you why that is preferred 😉

 

But what an impressive piece of design and manufacture. Well done.

 

Regards,

 

Richard

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3 hours ago, Rik Thistle said:

hyw,

 

Thank you for answering all my questions.

 

My only comment would be that it is usually best to have the emergency-off switch on the front side of the machine so that you (or a colleague) don't have to lean over anything....my left thumb can tell you why that is preferred 😉

 

But what an impressive piece of design and manufacture. Well done.

 

Regards,

 

Richard

 

In my experience the best cut off switch is my wife - when she comes into my workshop and tells me enough is enough and dinners ready :)  Always works for me!

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7 hours ago, No Idea said:

 

In my experience the best cut off switch is my wife - when she comes into my workshop and tells me enough is enough and dinners ready :) Always works for me!

This is probably the best cut-off switch I've ever heard in the world. . .This is more important than anything!;)

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