Captain Poison

Thanks, Pat...and everyone for the "likes"!
 
I added a little more to the base/launching ways to display the model. I still need some "curbs" on either side of the center timber to keep the keel centered where it should be.

Once the finish is on, the contrast between the maple, beech, cherry and swiss pear will be more dynamic.
 
 
 

I'm getting ready to plank the outboard bulwarks.  The jig will get in the way of the wales, so it's time to build a display stand.  I have some curly bird's eye maple that I'm using for the base.  The section will be cradled in  scaffolding/bracing much as I did for my Blandford project.  The wood is cherry.
 
 
 

With lots to do around the house, I've not had much modeling time.  I did finish the deck planking, though!
I wanted as much deck framing as possible to show, but I still needed to accommodate three long gums.  I started the holly planking at the outboard mortar pit bulkhead and worked my way to the waterway.  The margin p[lank was custom fit.  It turned out to be as wide as the others at it's forward end, with a bit of a taper aft.  It turned out pretty well.

So first of all thanks for the likes.
 
Hello and have a nice Sunday evening.  I haven't been able to build too much on Le Coureur in the last week.  Now it was time to construct the partition wall with the doors, but I had to find out that everything didn't fit somehow.  The wall and the doors were about 2-3mm too high so I started to reduce the size of the floor and grind down the bulkhead of the ammunition chamber that brought about 1mm.  Next I put in the beam and the walls on the left and right.  Then I built a door frame because I really wanted movable doors.  I was able to implement everything and I am happy that everything worked out.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Oh yeah, the stove and the dresser were the smaller projects this week.

Fcastle planking is completed.  I also added the mast coat as you can see in the photo.  This is also the same as the earlier ones we built.  The open areas of the decking reveal plenty of the gun deck.  Just remember,  you can add more deck planks if you prefer.  You can also plank one side completely and leave the other side just showing the deck beams and knees.  Its up to you.
 
Now its onto either the belfry rail or jump over and start working on the qdeck coamings.  I havent decided yet.   There is also a large knee at the bow to make.
 
Chuck
 

 

@shipman
Thank you very much for the appreciation, 
and all ohters für the LIKES.
With unwavering perseverance and joy, here we go:
 
Continuation: Main topgallant stay - Étai grand mât de perroquet
Analogous to the mizzen topgallant stay, the main topgallant stay (ø 0.58 mm in 1:48 scale) is made and fixed, but it is not guided to the main top by a single block, but by a guide collar with integrated thimble.
The guide collar, consisting of a leg strop (ø 0.35 mm in model scale 1:48) with eye splices at the ends, was completely served. The following picture shows the serving machine with the finished stropp, into which the thimble was subsequently bound.

 
The next picture shows the finished arrangement of the main topgallant stay.

 
The leading collar is attached with a lashing around the main topgallant mast.
Before I could attach the main topgallant stay to the model, however, a small area had to be served where the lead-through is through the thimble of the guide collar. The main topgallant stay did not need this serving, because it was led through a block disk and therefore there was less danger of falling into the pubic.
 
Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime, Annexe Pl. 1
 
Finally, the lashing was made and the main topgallant stay was fixed to the two-legged strop in the top.

 

 

 
See you soon 

Thanks for your opinions,
I found another two examples from the book about the restauration of Princess Royale. I hope it is ok, if I post them here, otherwise please delete them.
These photos show the arrangement very well.
 

 

 
 
So my bulkheads inside the cabins will be made from ivory, the forward side of the forwand bulkhead, will be made from boxwood. I hope, I can somehow bring this together. If not, I will just paint it red. 

 
Matthias
 
 

The scupper strakes are in.
Thinner bulwark strakes above are next.  The outside of the bulwarks are black.  The planking below the covering board is green.  Painting the scupper strake before installation assured a clean cream line for the edge of the covering board.

 

Maury

Here is a quick update. 
 
The margin planks on the qdeck and fcastle have been added.   The first planks to add are those along the breast beams at the waist.  I used a 3/16" x 3/64" strip for this.   The overhang edge on both were rounded off.  There is only a slight overhang on the breast beams with these plans which should leave you with a nice rabbet on the other side for your deck planking which we will start shortly.   The rabbet was about 1/16" wide on the other side.
 
Fcastle margin planks shown below.   Then the templates can be used as a starting point for the actual margin planks.  Just like you did for the gundeck below at the bow.  Use the template as a guide and starting point to make your margin planks.  I cut them from a 3/64" thick sheet.   Then I added the waterway along the bulwarks just as we did on the gun deck. I 3/64 x 364 strip was used and one corner was rounded off down its length to create a quarter round profile.  Same as for the gun deck....you dont have to create scarph joins if you dont want to.   They are tricky.  You can simply butt them together if you want to simplify this.
 

 
Then the same was repeated on the qdeck.   Start with the breast beam plank.....then the waterways can be cut from a 3/64" sheet......and then make the waterway from a 3/64 x 3/64  strip.
 
Do you guys have any questions????
 



I thinking I will start on the outside areas of planking before I do the coamings.  Just to break up the planking process a bit.   Again .....you guys have the templates for lining off.  All the deck planks are provided for you on the templates for the fcastle and qdeck.  It should go easier than the gun deck.
 
I will have that done soon and another update.
 

Thank for watching and thanks for all likes. Some more decoration on the stern.

 
Best regards
 
Henrik

Good morning.

Good morning.

Good morning.

Good morning.

Good morning.

A Dog and Vosper 
16" X 12" Watercolour

HMS Codrington at Dunkirk. Done this afternoon, Commission for a guy who's father was evacuated aboard her w/c A4

HMS Gentian

Hull.

Work is now complete on chapter eight. This included the making and mounting of the aft riding bitts, mounting of the previously made stove, mounting of the partial bulkhead, mounting of the remaining  focs'l deck beams with their hanging and lodging knees, the mizzen mast partner, and making and installation of the carlings and ledges for both the focs'l and quarterdeck, and the mounting of the cat tails.
 
A lot of tasks done, but mostly straightforwardThe last attached photo shows the overall  current  state of completion. further work will await Chuck's completion of chapter nine and release of it's parts.
 
Bob

Planked the sub decks, I had thought about making the false main deck beams from my own Swiss pear to match the other structural parts, but when I saw how beautifully that Chucks laser cut parts fitted I decided to use them and stain to match the boxwood seeing as how those beams will almost be invisible.

Thanks Dave, I decided to start the mockup of the QG window spacers and everything is looking pretty good so far.

Installation of the QG top parts, again following the roundup of the transom athwartships AND the sheer angle the same as the lower pieces, I used a simple marked strip to check that the window space was the same fore/aft and in the middle.

Rigging the lower yard.
 
I used a length of piano wire to get everything lined up and wrapped to the yard.

 
Then ran the rope under the last wrap as so.

 
Once I used some diluted PVA and trimmed the ropes and wrapped the outer edge of the rope I have the yard hung in place.
This took a lot of time to do but looks nice at the end.
The more I do rigging the easier and better it gets and I am still working on my rigging skills. I do struggle with seizing blocks trying to get them to look right.

first roughing: