Oldsalt1950
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Everything posted by Oldsalt1950
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Almost there on the hull planking. Are you going to double plank? Jim -
Looks good Dave. Free hand painting can be a bit daunting. A really fine bristled brush however works well. Jim
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I'm glad I took the time to really go over the plans before getting too far into the build. In addition to the issue with the quarterdeck bulkhead location, and its height vis a vis being able to man the aft cannon, I found a few more nagging problems. The aft pin rails need to be modified and re-located. Who in their right mind is going to put them over a cannon? The ladders going from the main deck to the quarterdeck have too many steps. While the model of "Fair American" may look pretty, it is not a model of any ship that sailed. There are just too many issues between an actual vessel and the model. That being said, I will build a vessel that could have sailed based on the FA hull. The re-engineering and redesign continue. Eventually I will be able to get beyond the framing stage and construct a ship. Jim
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Looking good. Take your time, I realize that is easy to say but building your ship is not a race. The Amish have a saying that holds very true to model ship building, " The hurrier I go, the behinder I get." Jim
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For a first impression, this one really takes the cake. Perhaps Gaza would be better suited for that other ship modeling site. Looks like he'd fit right in. Jim
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After much studying of the plans and even more deliberation, I have decided to take a much different tack in my FA build. There are going to be some major modifications to make the cabin, quarterdeck and cannons work. I'm not raising the quarterdeck and associated bulkhead. That would have destroyed the fine lines of the ship as almost an inch would have been added atop the current bulwarks aft of frame 13. Here is the new plan: 1. Move the bulkhead for the great cabin aft to frame 15. This eliminates any interference with the cannon. The great cabin is no longer so great. It will also move the ships wheel aft. No major surgery is needed. the cabin bulkhead can remain at its present height the cabin floor will just need to be dropped to compensate. 2. The exposed main deck now is longer by a few frames but the ships over all lines do not change. 3. Some rigging points will now be on the new extended bulwarks along the port/starboard side as opposed to their current locations. Those of you who have the FA kit can see looking at the plans what this does. Other changes will be the elimination of the badged windows on the aft port/starboard quarter, the railing will also need a little re-design but will get to that when it needs to be installed. Jim
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Recommended pins for planking?
Oldsalt1950 replied to Capella's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
There are all kinds and sizes of clamps available, take a look on Amazon. You can never have too many clamps! Jim -
Recommended pins for planking?
Oldsalt1950 replied to Capella's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
If you are going to pin your planks as opposed to using clamps, Use the same pins that model railroaders use to secure their track to ties. There are a number of sizes, and your best bet in purchasing them is Age of Sails, you can either put them in using a pair of needle nose pliers or a pin pusher. I use clamps, and do all the hull planking before putting the deck planking on. Hope this helps. Jim -
Sleep Deprivation on Navy Ships?
Oldsalt1950 replied to Goodshipvenus's topic in Nautical/Naval History
I was a Division LPO for half of my 20-year naval career and had to write many an underway watch bill. The process is determined by the nature of your deployment and subject to change as world circumstances evolve. For most peacetime deployments you can go to a three section watch with everyone standing 8 hours of watch in a day, have 8 hours of rest time and 8 hours to complete shipboard housekeeping duties. Underway replenishment and GQ drills of course put everyone not on watch into work mode. In a quasi-battle mode the watch bill goes port and starboard with the schedule now 8 on 4 off, 4 on 8 off to accommodate getting rest but maintaining mental acuity. I used to sit down with my division chief and Division officer before any underway time to establish what we were expecting during a deployment and always had a backup plan. It is much easier today to plan such things than back in the age of sail. -
If Chris really wants to go crazy, he could do a Trafalgar Series and design ships from both sides. Three different navies and at least 3 different classifications of ships. Trafalgar: 32 British ships (25 ships of the line, 4 Frigates and smaller craft), 23 French ships and 15 Spanish ships (33 ships of the line, 7 Frigates and smaller craft). There are a lot of ships to choose from in this battle. Jim
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Just my two cents, but why not design your way through the fleet, from sloop to ship of the line. Use the time period from 1750 through 1815. You already have a good start at it. Jim
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Well done Ron. You can almost feel the wave motion. I spent enough time shipboard during my 20 years of service. I've seen everything from dead calm smooth as glass, to 40 foot + in a typhoon for three days in U.S. Navy small boys. I've been through the English Channel a number of times and cannot remember a time when it was actually calm. That is more due to current flow, where it is located and depth of water than weather conditions. It gets rather choppy in a good blow. Jim
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After weighing the options the following has been decided upon. The removable bulkhead and door will be moved aft and the quarter deck will be raised to make the aft cannon useable. This will also entail some changes to the transom and the quarterdeck railing. Doing this will make the aft area of the Fair American look a bit more like Rattlesnake from each side. Other things that must now be taken into account are the main boom. Jim
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For squaring and truing the bulkheads, the Legos and clamps work fine. The wooden blocks between the bulkheads are glued in place to hold the bulkheads firm while fairing the hull. Jim
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That is correct. It is a known problem. Just shim the two pieces until they align correctly with the plans. Jim
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Welcome aboard Tim. By all means start a log, in your case it would be in the scratch-built section. There are plenty of people that will be more than willing to lend some armchair advise. Jim
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Off the top of my head no. There are a couple that show gun deck details and also rigging . Look for the longer logs Jim
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Be sure and take lots of pictures of the unboxing. You may need a hand truck to move that box. Jim
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Bill, along other lines before you start. Read the build logs and write down where people found issues and had difficulty and what they did to fix it. Each kit is just a bit different in its problems but knowing ahead of time there may be an issue at a certain point makes things go smoother. Jim
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Bill having been "Snake bit" I'll attempt to give you some answers that make sense. 1. I sanded my rabbet. Use a 1/16 thick piece of plank to mark the area along the bottom of the frame to establish where to sand to from the bearding line. 2. Explained in answer 1 3 You can establish a rough bevel by tracing the bevel marking from each frame and sanding to the correct side of the frame the rear of the forward frames the front of the aft frames. 4. Center pieces are left in by some of us to avoid breaking off the deck supports on the 3 forward most frames and frames I-L. 5. The Wale plank location needs to be established by taking a measurement off the plans.' 6. For the rigging, wait until you are almost there and ask. We can provide you with links and help at that time. Jim
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Ed, are you going to just try bending a piece to fit from the stem to the frame after it? I thought about that waterway long and hard 1/8x1/8 is not easy to bend that sharp. It would be easier to make a laminated waterway out of 1/32 x 1/8 wood, assembling each ply of the laminate after it is bent. You can then sand the profile and glue it in place. Much less frustrating, just takes a little more time. Jim
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If you have the waterways in, I'd be working on the gun ports. after that the Wales and exterior planking above the Wales. Jim
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No problem guys. You will have to decide how you are handling the waterway where it meets the cabin bulkhead. Jim
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Ed, the planking sounds correct. I'd then install the waterway, and take measurements from there, as it is a fixed position aligned with the sheer of the deck. Add the gunport framing and then attach the Wale strakes. Take your time. Jim
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Since ME has not been put on the banned list. I will continue with the build log. There are a number of issues that need to be dealt with concerning the kit and also a number of solutions. 1. Bulkhead/wall at quarterdeck is too low in scale, and position interferes with cannon. This can be dealt with in a number of ways. A. Move bulkhead further aft which will clear the cannon B. Change spacing between gun ports to make room. 2. For bulkhead height there are two solutions, but keeping it at its current height makes the aft two gunports useless as there is not enough over head to use the cannons. A. Raise the quarterdeck height, this will entail redesigning the bulwarks and railing B. Lower the deck height past the bulkhead, also rendering the cannons useless. C. Add a companionway hatch and lower a portion of the deck, allowing the cannons to be used. I'll have to carefully weigh the options and modify the plans as needed. Jim
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