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Ferrus Manus

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Everything posted by Ferrus Manus

  1. It is highly unlikely that the meter (as a unit of length) was standardized across Germany OR the Netherlands in 1674, so you do not have to worry about the length of your ship.
  2. Gotta love the antics of the fabled master of Cigarland. Love your builds, Frank. I'm also subbed to your youtube channel.
  3. Where have you been!?!? The USS United States is proudly on my shelf, finished, as you have seen. There will not be a forestay at the main mast top, as the G. L. Thebaud did not have one, as far as i know. I am about halfway through putting the blocks on the yards. The plastic quality is surprisingly, VERY good. Easy to work, hardy, and nimble. However, they have zero clue how ships go together, and expect you to put this together in a weekend, with mediocre at best results. I have not gotten to Joann Fabrics yet. I might continue working on the kit tomorrow. I will use my newfound freedom to extend the foot of the mainsail, as the kit supplied sail only reaches about 4/5 of the way to the end of the main boom.
  4. I got this when i was a little kid. Built it like a little kid. May or may not have been the match to the fire that is my interest in model sailing ships. Honestly, i can't believe you did this. Good memories.
  5. Heller blocks REALLY suck. I recommend you buy your own wood blocks. Or what i tend to do is get lazy and "Strop" them by tying a rope to the top hole of the block.
  6. I ended up pausing this project in favor of completing my 1/96 USS United States model. Now that she's proudly on my shelf, i am getting back to the David Lewandowski. I ended up choosing not to spend 75 bucks on sails for a (relatively small) ship. For some reason, HiSmodel prices them unusually high and i couldn't find them on eBay. That being said, i am employing the help of my wonderful Grandmother, whose sewing skills FAR exceed my own, to help me with making custom sails for the vessel. My plan is to cut out the plastic sails from the sheet and mark the corners, trace the outside lines, and then measure and draw the lines on the sail for reef points and stitch lines in the sail. Then i will have them stitched and after that is complete, i will cut the sails out and likely add some form of bolt ropes, where applicable.
  7. This will be the fourth installation in this series. I put the main rails on, after fixing their fittings in place. After that, i installed the kit-supplied deadeyes, which could probably use some paint touch-up. Then, i got started on the standing rigging. The stays were simple enough to install. I ended up using thin line for the upper forestays and thick line for the rest: Don't you like my doors? After i finished the forestays, it was time to install the shrouds. I did this using the two-shrouds-on-the-same-side layout, like most ships of the time: I used a variation of this, where a single line, tied at the mast top, makes shrouds 1&2, 3&4, etc... You know what i'm talking about. After this was done, it was time for the most fun part of all... ratlines!!! To make the ratlines, first i ripped a blank piece of paper out of one of my college-ruled notebooks and cut it to size. Then, i used clear tape to affix the paper to the top and bottom of the #1 and #4 shrouds on each side, threading the piece (sticky side facing inward) outboard of the #1 and #4 shrouds, and inboard of the #2 and #3 shrouds. Then, i simply super-glued lengths of thin tan thread to the shrouds, following the pattern of the lines of the paper. I am assuming all who read this already know how to do this, as most of you are more experienced than i am. This is my very first attempt at scratch ratlines, and so far, it has been a resounding success. I am proud of my work today, and will likely have the standing rigging done by the end of the week.
  8. On this week's episode of Me Making Mediocre Models: I installed the remainder of the (extremely simple) headgear tackle, using spare lengths of chain from my complete Cutty Sark kit: Once again, i apologize for the warzone that is my workspace, as well as the horrendous image quality. This will be a continuing theme throughout this build log. Afterwards, i continued working on the deck (now complete) I ended up having to drill nine holes for eyebolts, all of which are visible in the images. There were also two preexisting circular holes in the deck sections on the port side. Apparently, they were for two blocks on the port side. These were completely useless, mind you. I thought that was stupid, so i covered up the holes with a spare pile of blocks and a rope coil. I put another smaller coil on the starboard side for effect. My next task will be to install the masts and standing rigging, as well as the u-shaped mast pinrails once my brass belaying pins arrive. Thank you for putting up with my antics for this week. Be back soon!!
  9. Pick a fishing schooner c. first half of the 1900's. Pick any one. I guarantee at the bottom of both fore and main gaff booms you will see a mysterious block-and-tackle with a hook at the fore end. What is that for??
  10. On Friday and Saturday i got started on the painting and general hull assembly. First, i ended up using soft-grit sandpaper to rough up the smooth hull for better paint adhesion. For the most part, i was happy with the result. However it took several coats to smooth out the paint job, with mixed results. The hull plastic was white, which ended up highlighting inconsistencies in the paint. (We'll just cover it up with shade, they'll never know) As you can see, i started on the bowsprit assembly: Apologies for the grainy image quality, my phone is 5 years old. The instructions were not clear on how the bowsprit was to be attached to the hull. As the box art shows, the bowsprit extends well into the hull and sits attached to the deck and anchor winch. There was no hole in the front, but instead an indentation. I erroneously thought the bowsprit was to sit in that position in the bow indentation, which took considerable sanding to achieve. I guess this is a fictitious vessel and not a true copy of the G. L. Thebaud, so i will let it slide. Mostly because i do not have the means to un-sand the base of my bowsprit. I drilled the proper holes for the bobstay/collar chains, whose holes were non-existent and whose eyebolts did not come with the kit. I ended up stealing some from my old HMS Victory kit (which i will unceremoniously rob of more rigging elements for this project) and inserting them into the holes. The next step of this project will be to finish the bowsprit tackle, drill holes for necessary eyebolts in the deck, and paint the deck as well as hatches, mast housings, and other deck furniture.
  11. I believe the idea that ships of the period were painted red in their interiors to lessen the psychological impact of battle was simply a Victorian myth. The interior should probably be painted as she is seen in Portsmouth today.
  12. Hey folks! Me again. Today i am starting my first true build log on this forum. This log will concern a project i am doing for a friend, a modified version of Pyro's American Cup Racer (G. L. Thebaud) from 1958. This project will not be a total bash, not even close. However, i am heavily modifying the rigging and including parts from other kits to facilitate that. I will end up ordering high-quality cloth sails for this ship from HiSmodel in the Czech Republic. Anyway, wish me luck! obviously, i will be asking many questions.
  13. In that case, i hope and pray for your recovery. That must be a really hard thing to deal with, losing your sight and being unable to do your favorite activities. Rest up and take care of yourself. The Pinta will always be here wating, and we will always be here for you. Take it easy, brother. 😉
  14. I don't think many people would have survived an amputation in 1492, especially at sea. Amputees would probably not sail aboard a ship, as they would have been considered unfit to sail.
  15. @mnlHonestly, i think that much canvas is simply inefficient. It would be so hard to handle it all at once, it would become less practical that handling less sail more efficiently and thus more skillfully.
  16. I am 17, almost 18. I started at your age with the Revell USS Constitution in 1/96 scale. It turned out to be a total disaster. My biggest piece of advice? DO NOT start with a huge, complicated kit. Start small, with maybe a 1/96 scale schooner or yacht. Something easy but challenging, that you will feel proud of but not be frustrating or beyond your level. It's what i wish i had done. Ship modelling is an intriguing hobby, and even the most experienced modeller has much left to learn. Ask questions, i know that everyone here is itching to be able to answer and share knowledge. No question is a stupid one. The world of sailing ship models will consume you, and i suggest you jump in. There is a world of fun, learning, passion, and accomplishment waiting for you.
  17. If we assume that none of the pole is obscured by the spinnaker itself, it would be just short enough to fit under the point at which the fore topmast stay attaches to the foremast for the purposes of tacking.
  18. no no no, i was thinking that the pole was shorter than it looked because it isn't obscured by the spinnaker itself, and also, why is the clew of this mystery sail rigged to the boom of the mains'l and not belayed to the deck like a normal fisherman?
  19. I really WOULD like to include this mystery sail on some of my builds, if i could find out how the darn thing is rigged! (and how it tacks)
  20. mnl, how would you get even a smaller spinnaker pole from starboard to port and vice versa? I think the spinnaker pole may be sort of an optical illusion, and that the other side of the spinnaker, obscured by the half facing the camera, actually extends backward and that we are looking at the side of the sail. That would mean that the spinnaker pole does not extend out of view, but rather is smaller than it looks.
  21. This is the racing yacht "Westward" built in 1910: I am having a lot of trouble identifying a sail on the vessel, the slack sail that seems to be mounted on the main topmast stay and whose clew seems to rig to the mains'l boom. How is it rigged? what is its name? Any help is much appreciated. Also, a nagging afterthought: How does a spinnaker tack?
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