allanyed

Another 34 frames is good practice for future builds!!! Look at all the experience you are gaining from asking and then doing, and think about how much more confident you will be on the next project. You are getting information from hundreds of years of collective experience from the members here. Many of us wish we had had this kind of access to information when we were on our first projects, so know that you are a lucky guy.

Moab, do they say what kind of boxwood it is? Thanks!!!!

Keith, VERY interesting use of tape!!! Any idea how well it will hold up for the long haul? Would hate to see it lifting after some years. Joe, have you looked at brass and/or copper sheets from McMaster Carr? They have sheets and bars of brass down to 0.005 thick. A package of six 4"X10" sheets that are 0.005 thick is $23.49 and 0.01 is $27.19 for six sheets.

Don, This may help understand a little better. These are two frames that sit next to each other.

Hi Don I cannot speak for ships of other than English, but for those, simply put, R&S includes two frames and the small space between them and the next pair. There is no big gap between frames. Goodwin explains as follows on page 13 in The Construction and Fitting of English Man of War. ....stringent rules establish the distances between each 'main' frame so that this (ventilation) could be achieved. This was known as the 'room and space' provision, and measured the distance between the face edge of one complete (or main) frame and the equivalent face edge of the next main frame. The measurement can be roughly estimated as twice the fore an aft breadth of a single frame plus between 2in and 6in for the overall small spaces between the filling frames and and main frame. This is a bit difficult to be clear in words. Look for drawings such as those posted above which explain the lay of frames as they should be. The drawing above is contemporary and correct. If you are looking at contemporary models, they are usually "admiralty style" and do not have frames laid as they were on the actual ships themselves so of no use in figuring R&S. I suggest you pick up a copy of Goodwin's book as it is a great source on the basics of English warship construction between 1650 and 1850.

Don, The spacing between ports was not always the same. It could vary by as much as 10" round the area of the main mast. The space between frames for the ports themselves for a given deck on a given vessel was always the same so there was no need to cut into a frame as you show, thus weakening it. The frames were reduced in siding as you went up each futtock and they were offset as well, to create the proper width between frames so each gun port on a given deck was the same. There were small (about 2" deep) mortises cut into the frames for the sills. The sills sometimes had a birdsmouth mortise and at other times an angle mortise. This varied from ship to ship as some had angled mortises for both the upper and lower sills. The following is just one example, but there are many more that can be found at https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich as well as the NMM site. This particular one was taken from the commons.wiki site as it is a high res version. Even with the low res versions you can download for free from NMM, you can see that the space between ports is sometimes the same, sometime not. You can also see a variety of the offset frame construction so no big chunk needs to be removed from any frame. For a much clearer look at the vessel drawing below go to https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich&fileuntil='Impregnable'+(1810)+RMG+J1643.png#/media/File:'Aquilon'_(1786),_(also_spelt_Aquillon_or_Acquillon)_RMG_J7958.png The spacing between ports on this vessel happens to be consistent. Hope this helps.

There HAS to be an IT guy in the 40K members here that can help you. Where are you gals and guys???? Dave needs help!!!

I agree with all of the above regarding using carpenter's glue versus white glue. Based on my own experience it generally takes more time to prepare the next piece while the glue is curing on the previous piece, but in a nutshell, for me, light stress-5 minutes or less; medium stress- 20 minutes is plenty; an hour is more than enough for everything else. If the stress is still too much, something is probably wrong with the fit/shape of the parts, not the glue.

Looks like the same or very similar material. The site I gave above has weight of the paper as well so you can do a conversion and see if they are similar or perhaps exactly the same.

Mike, It does not really have sources. Check out https://sigmfg.com/products/sig-silkspan-tissue which is what I used. You can also go to their home page and click on catalogs, SIG, then scroll to page 86 for more options. What I find strange is that the material I bought SIGST001, is not listed in the catalog. They may have changed code numbers. You can get prices in dollars, Euros or other currencies on their site.

John I agree with the previous post from VtH. If you have the tools, you could make your own and won't have to use walnut which is really not the best wood for a ship model even though many kits use it. The color is usually inconsistent and rather dark and it is much to porous unless you are using black walnut which is less porous. Walnut is a respiratory irritant and actually causes rashes on some people as it has natural herbicides (all walnut species have jugalone which is a toxic compound) that fight off the growth of other plants near by. Ma nature does not forget plants when it comes to self preservation. If you must use walnut and have to do any sanding, an N95 mask is highly recommended and for any wood sanding it is best to have a dust collection system running at the spot where you are sanding to collect most of the particles. Even hanging the hose of a shop vac a few inches from where you are sanding works well. I love walnut for furniture and squares of a chess board as well as jewelers boxes, but models, not so much.

Roger, Cad indeed makes things easier, for me at least, and I am very very far from being an expert. Drawing the station lines, then paralleling each with an inboard line that is the moulded dimension of the frames less than the station line is all it takes. Not sure this would be so easy using water lines, but probably should work. As to the plug itself, water lines or station lines both work so it comes down to the builder's preference. I see advantages to both methods.

If the area is to be painted or coppered, filler should work. If not, I would remove the outer layer of planking for those strakes in question from the stern post to the first butts forward for each strake. You could then fill and fix the inner layer with filler or new pieces of plank, then put new planking for the second layer. It looks like the ends of the planks get narrower which is opposite of what they would normally be. May be the camera angle, but just curious about this.

This is the screen that you should have. The "New Build" button, second from the left on top is what needs to be hit to get the process started. Cheers

David, This is an excellent build log and great to see. Is there a reason you prefer water lines rather than station lines for making pieces for the plug? I can see the waterlines giving some ease in shaping with the grain, but is there any other advantage? Is there a reason you prefer making grooves to hold the frames in the plug? I found the grooves to be very possessive of the frames and do not like to let them go when it is time to remove the shell from the plug. The dreaded CRACK when removing the shell is not a fun sound to hear as you pointed out as it creates extra work. I switched to an alternative method quite a few years ago. It does require a little bit of editing of the plug dimensions to the inside of the frame but have never had one stick to the plug, even with all frames and planking in place. Pic below. The spacers keep all the frames in place while the planking goes on just as the grooves would do this. I REALLY like the substantial grove at the bow and stern for the stem and deadwood and the use of gesso. Thank you for sharing your methods and experience!!

Warm welcome to MSW Ken. LOVE your art work and with your eye for detail, you should do very well with Syren. LOTS of help to be had here from the membership which incudes artists that can relate to you and your endeavor.

Dave, there is no edit button. Click on "New Build" at the top of the page. Scroll down to the bottom of the page and enter your scale. Go back to the top of the page and hit "Enter Data."

Mike, I do not recall ever seeing a sail with metal rods. Are you speaking about using metal wire of some sort to keep the sails for the model looking billowed rather than using a bolt rope? Merci bien

Mike, Silk Span is a non-woven paper that is surprisingly robust once it has been painted with artist acrylics. (not the cheap bottled craft paints) If you have not already seen the posts that follow, you may want to check it out. I would also buy a copy of the supplementary booklet on making sails by David Antscherl for $8 plus shipping from Seawatch Books. I find it to be superior to cloth as it is so close to scale and avoids the need to do sewing or stitching which is nigh impossible to do at scale smaller than about 1:12. " Seems" there have been a lot of posts showing sewn sails lately and they really do not look right as they are so far out of scale and take away from what would have been a very nice model.

Haddock I believe the Wasa carried 24 pounders and 3 or 4 pounders thus the size difference in the cannon, the carriages, and the size of the gun ports as well as the distance from the deck to the the gun port cills and ledges. I look forward to how the clay cannon project goes as this is a new idea for me. I can see a clay cannon being made and used to make a silicone mold then casting the barrel in casting resin or pewter which will hold up very well compared to clay, but I still find your idea intriguing and anxious to see the results.

Sorry Dave, I have no idea what the problem is. Perhaps you can contact a moderator for some help on this. Again, sorry I cannot help.

Lester, sorry but I am a little confused. I believe the seven pages of plans from Hahn include drawings of each of the stern timbers and transoms as no two are the same. Perhaps you can contact whoever sold you the plans to get the missing missing sheet.

Roger, They may not have one digitized or possibly they do not have one at all. I just did a search using the key words ketch, builder and contract with a time span of 1650-1700 and had a lot of hits, but no builder contracts. Do you have names of any of these ketches?

John, Very well done build log, thanks for sharing! What is the material you used for the sail and edge seam? Thanks!!

To answer your question about fairing Jaeon, based on my own experience, yes to each item you mentioned but files are not really necessary. I am sure there are many other methods that members here use that work well. You can also add a sanding mouse to the mix. Are you building POF or POB? For POF, the frame drawings should show the amount of bevel along each frame so can fair these CLOSE to the line before installing, then do the final fairing with sanding sticks. If plywood POB, these usually go quickly as the wood is soft so care needs to be taken not to go too fast and over sand. Constantly check the fairing with a piece of plank to be sure there are no dips or bumps. If the assembly is really rough cut and needs a lot of sanding to get the frames faired, a rotary sanding wheel is useful for the initial heavy work. Just don't over do it and know that some finer hand work is best used at the end of the task. If you do use these, safety glasses really should be used!! Photo of what I mean follows: