allanyed
-
Posts
8,149 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by allanyed
-
Hi N80fty Hard to tell from the photos but the wales look to be a bit too thick. They should stand out above the thickstuff above and below the main wales only about 2 inches (0.02" - .6mm) and about 1.5" for the middle wales. They taper in thickness at the bow to pretty much match the thickness of the strakes of thickstuff above and below the wales so they can seat in the rabbet. The below is a cross section of Boyne, a 98 gun ship circa 1810, but looking at scantlings in Steel, 1805, they match up with a 110 gun first rate as well. Nothing some sanding can't fix if you are so inclined. Allan
- 33 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Victory
- DeAgostini
- (and 1 more)
-
The wood will shrink as it dries and could take away the tight fit against adjacent planks. Some species are worse than others, but this is can be a problem with most species. I have formed wet wood on the model in the past but let it dry before gluing. I stopped this for the most part as it needs to be clamped in place and clamps often leaves dents in the wet wood that remain even once dry. Have you studied the Chuck Passaro videos on marking out the bulkheads or frames and edge bending off the model? It is really easy to do and never a worry about needing clamps or pins as the finished piece of planking will have the right shape assuming it is properly tapered as well, especially near the bow. A well made pre-shaped plank can be held in place with finger pressure with the glue of your choice for less than a minute and is done. Allan
-
Hi Jake The first mouth-blown cylinder technique of making sheet glass for windows was developed in Germany during the 11th century. In 1226 this technique was brought to England. Paper would not do well at sea😀 Windows, (called lights on the old ships) in the stern and galleries were likely made of glass on Mayflower as she was built several hundred years later. It was nothing like the float glass of today, and smaller panes were used as there were limits on sizes with the processes available at that time. Allan
- 1 reply
-
- 1
-
-
Hi Stevinne Can you explain what this is and post a pic or two? Many thanks Allan
-
Why was the wood not holding it's shape? Sounds like it was still wet inside. I used an iron in the past but have gone to a hot air gun with heat settings so as to not scorch the wood. If I remove the wood from the forming jig, and it does not hold its shape I put it back and hit it with more heated air. I assume you watched the 4 part video by Chuck Passaro on edge bending. If not, it is very informative. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM If your planks are pre-formed you can use carpenter's glue and hold it with finger pressure for a minute or less. The piece can be maneuvered for a few seconds. CA also works very well for many members. It cures very quickly compared to PVA so less maneuvering time. Try test pieces with both and see what works best for you. If you must use pins and the pins/holes are small enough, you can drill clean holes afterwards and put in treenails. The diameter at 1:64 should be about 0.027" (0.7mm) If you are not going to treenail the planks I would avoid the use of pins. Allan
-
What do you do with your unusable rigging line?
allanyed replied to capnharv2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I would run a razor over as much as possible so there are only small pieces. I got in the habit of cutting fishing line as well as the rings on plastic six pack rings for soda and beer when garbage was hauled on barges back in the day and still do it to this day just in case. Turtles supposedly see the clear plastic as jelly fish and get hung up or choke on the stuff if it winds up in the water. Allan -
What glue to use
allanyed replied to David Enghauser's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf While this tutorial uses the more traditional method of spiling, there is a description on making the marks on the bulkheads or frames which is applicable to using pre edge bent planks as well. As to glue, I prefer PVA as for me CA is noxious so I can only use it sparingly without getting nauseous or a headache. Allan -
The contract is really interesting. Brian Lavery discusses this as well. What I found interesting is that in both the contract Mark posted (and others I checked) as well as Lavery, there is no mention of tiling under the stove with the advent of the iron stoves replacing brick fire hearths about 1750. From Lavery's Arming and Fitting, page 199, regarding the iron stoves: The whole structure rested on a flat metal base, and the deck underneath was specially strengthened to hold it, with deck carlines that were thicker than usual. Allan
-
Hello from North Haven, Connecticut, USA
allanyed replied to PatLynch's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome to MSW Pat. While the kits are usually a good shortcut compared to scratch building, there is a lot of more accurate information in the Anatomy of the Ship, HMS Beagle by Karl Marquardt that will help you build an accurate model. There are also a number of contemporary plans of the Cherokee Class vessels of which Beagle was one before being converted to a survey bark that will be helpful. (https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/search/Cherokee Class plans ) As there were many of the class, there may be contracts available that will give you scantlings of most pieces of the vessel from the keel on up. Also, you may benefit if you spend some time studying the tutorials in the article data base here at MSW. Allan -
Tiny Spar on 17th Century English Yacht
allanyed replied to catopower's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I wonder why the museum had the modern rigging removed. Could it be that it was inaccurate? Allan -
Tiny Spar on 17th Century English Yacht
allanyed replied to catopower's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hi Clare Is there a photo of a contemporary model or a replica or something else? Allan -
There are contemporary profile and deck plans of an Ex Virginia pilot schooner 1794 renamed Swift on the RMG Collections site that is the same length as the 1819 Virginia. I have no idea if this is keeping with your Virginia in design otherwise. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/search/Virginia pilot plans There are numerous gun boat and schooner plans on the RMG Collections site that you might want to research to see if any of them are similar to the kit model. Allan
-
Hi Myxy Can you explain why there would be less rigging of shrouds and ratlines just because it is a different scale? I really do not understand what a smaller scale has to do with the number of lines, although I would guess they would be more difficult to rig at this scale. 😕 McNarry's and McCaffery's books give a lot of information on rigging small scales from which you might benefit if you do not already have them. Good luck and Happy New Year. Allan
-
I am pretty sure there were no regulations, but I would love to see any contemporary charts, scantlings, detailed plans, or text on rigging, especially from the 18th century. Other than The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship 1794 by David Steel, are there are any similar contemporary books or other sources? Other than Steel, the most comprehensive seem to be modern works from authors such as Lees, Marquardt, Anderson, Harland, et al. Allan
-
Super warm welcome from half way across our planet. Allan
-
This might not be much help, but the era is about right (1622) https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-12211 Allan
-
Hi Flyer, Happy New Year! This was getting a little confusing for me then I read further. On page 73 Lees describes the double blocks on the crosstrees for the buntlines and the leech lines. These blocks can be seen clearly on the drawings on page 72-74. I read the passages you mention and indeed Lees gives a description of the spritsail brace blocks, but these blocks are hanging from the foremast trestletrees, not the crosstrees. This can be seen on all six drawings that he uses to cover from 1700 onward on pages 100-102. Assuming Lees is correct, it appears that blocks for the leech lines, buntlines, and spritsail braces are all there under the foremast top, the latter hanging from the trestle trees, but are not shown in the kit drawing above. I am curious to know if they show the blocks for the spritsail braces in another drawing. Allan
-
You are right that no two ships seem to have been rigged exactly the same, especially belaying points, and the era made a difference. Regarding pin rails it depends on the era. One of the mistakes seen in some kits is the use of pin rails before the mid 18th century. On British ships there were no pin rails until about 1745 when they were lashed to the shrouds on small vessels. Larger ships had no pin rails until later in the 18th century. I have no information on other nations and would be curious to know when belaying pins came into common use on Danish and Spanish ships. Allan
-
Do you draw in the ports then drill a series of holes just inside the line first? Makes it much easier. A key hole blade on an Xacto handle is also a big help at times. Allan
- 152 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Flirt
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
Understood, and that makes sense, but why then is the configuration alternative the James Lees has found in his research that has both a single leech and a buntline in the same double block? All very confusing to me.😕 Allan
-
Just as an FYI, and I realize most kit makers ignore this, but the knee of the head tapers as it goes forward. A Swan class ship's knee of the head tapered down from 10" at the stem to about 4" wide (0.06" at 1:64) at the forward end. The dimensions and shaping of this is described in detail for Swan class ships in page 142 Volume 2 of your TFFM books. Allan
-
I cannot find any information based on contemporary sources that give this configuration. What is the advantage of having three sets of blocks versus two sets? This is very interesting and hope that Flyer and Dave Lester can share the source for this configuration? Era aside, as with so much in rigging there seems to be variations a lot of the time within any given era. Thanks in advance for your help. Allan
-
The blocks under the tops are described in detail for Swan class sloops like your Pegasus on pages 63 and 64 in Volume Four of TFFM by David Antscherl. There was more likely two sets of double blocks on each side of the tops if there were two leech lines. The two buntlines on each side shared double blocks and the two leech lines shared double blocks. There were no single blocks in this case. There were exceptions though. From James Lees Masting and Rigging, page 74 if the sail was rigged with a single leech line the inner buntlines ran through a set of single blocks and the outer buntline and single leech line shared the double blocks on each side of the mast. There are good drawings in both these sources that may be more clear. Allan
-
These plans show the single blocks upside down, Sketch below shows what they have and on the right what I think is the proper way to rig the blocks. As Amati shows them, the line would pass under the would-be sheave, not over it. Allan
-
WELCOME!!! Take a look at the various build logs of beginner models. Some are great, others ...... Depending on your skill level for ship building, there are indeed choices. If going back to the beginning and a chance to relearn or learn for the first time some great techniques look at one or more of the models from Model Shipways Shipwright 3 Kit Combo Series designed by David Antscherl. Allan
Our Emblem ®
