allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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Understood, and that makes sense, but why then is the configuration alternative the James Lees has found in his research that has both a single leech and a buntline in the same double block? All very confusing to me.😕 Allan
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Just as an FYI, and I realize most kit makers ignore this, but the knee of the head tapers as it goes forward. A Swan class ship's knee of the head tapered down from 10" at the stem to about 4" wide (0.06" at 1:64) at the forward end. The dimensions and shaping of this is described in detail for Swan class ships in page 142 Volume 2 of your TFFM books. Allan
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I cannot find any information based on contemporary sources that give this configuration. What is the advantage of having three sets of blocks versus two sets? This is very interesting and hope that Flyer and Dave Lester can share the source for this configuration? Era aside, as with so much in rigging there seems to be variations a lot of the time within any given era. Thanks in advance for your help. Allan
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The blocks under the tops are described in detail for Swan class sloops like your Pegasus on pages 63 and 64 in Volume Four of TFFM by David Antscherl. There was more likely two sets of double blocks on each side of the tops if there were two leech lines. The two buntlines on each side shared double blocks and the two leech lines shared double blocks. There were no single blocks in this case. There were exceptions though. From James Lees Masting and Rigging, page 74 if the sail was rigged with a single leech line the inner buntlines ran through a set of single blocks and the outer buntline and single leech line shared the double blocks on each side of the mast. There are good drawings in both these sources that may be more clear. Allan
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These plans show the single blocks upside down, Sketch below shows what they have and on the right what I think is the proper way to rig the blocks. As Amati shows them, the line would pass under the would-be sheave, not over it. Allan
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WELCOME!!! Take a look at the various build logs of beginner models. Some are great, others ...... Depending on your skill level for ship building, there are indeed choices. If going back to the beginning and a chance to relearn or learn for the first time some great techniques look at one or more of the models from Model Shipways Shipwright 3 Kit Combo Series designed by David Antscherl. Allan
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For the Beginner Modeler
allanyed replied to kgstakes's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
This is a no brainer. As there was no commonly available electricity, thus no electric power tools before the late 19th century, the beautiful models we see from the 17th and 18th century were done without electrically operated tools. Team efforts or not, they produced better models than most of us will ever build. Allan -
Thanks to everyone. Bob, I watched the video and will likely give it a try very soon. Seeing the SC Johnson paste wax did bring back terrible memories from 1965 though. As plebes at Kings Point we had to wax our dorm room floors with this stuff and buff it with ten pound hand buffers. And heaven help the idiot that walked on your floor without great care before inspection by the upper classmen! Allan
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I have had no problems painting resin printed cannon black but now have need of bronze colored barrels. I am seeking recommendations on any types of coatings, including brand and shade information, that will yield a realistic bronze color on these printed cannon. TIA Allan
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Hi Evan, Beautiful work!! Do you or does anyone here know if there were actual boats at that time with the single strake of planking inboard at the top of the frames and a cap rail? I have searched high and low and no contemporary drawing shows this design. Below are a number of cross sections from RMG and there are gunwales which would give proper support to the tholes on every design rather than the plank and cap rail that the kit includes instead. Again, your model is really well done!!! Allan
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Love your model! The off white bottom is fantastic. What color did you use or did you custom mix it? Washington is gorgeous, albeit a bit rainy, and everything is green, (including the sidewalks when one of our sons and his brood were stationed at Lewis-McCord)
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It appears from the photos you are attempting edge bend planks right on the model which typically does not work. Have you studied the following on two popular planking techniques that eliminate the lifting of the planks that you are experiencing? https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM Allan
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Hi Kenny Yes, I sort of thought that might be kit string rather than miniature rope. I am not sure any kits include rope rather than thread or string. Sorry if this is confusing to you or any of your build followers but the pic might help to see what I mean. There are several suppliers of high quality rope, the below happens to be from Syren. Allan
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- 18th century longboat
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VERY NICE work. One of the things that jumped out to me is that the gudgeons and pintles look to be right at scale. A lot of models that we see here are totally out of scale but yours look spot on. Is the thread that you used from the kit? For the future there is some fabulous miniature rope available in many circumferences and Syren makes a great inexpensive rope walk if you ever want to make your own rope so you don't have to use thread. Allan
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Can you please post this in the MSW designated language, English? MANY THANKS Allan
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Thanks Sizzolo, What is "open source" ? Is this the Wiki Commons site or some other? Allan
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Not to go off track on your model, but I hope you know how fortunate you are. If you are ever in SW Florida, give a ring, we have over 200 courses within our two local counties including my home course Panther Run. Lots of water and alligators to keep you entertained like this one on the 4th green. To get back on track, hope to see more pics on your model as you progress. Allan
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I love the gratings which look very realistic and that the copper bottom plates do not have the rivet-like protrusions as seen on so many models. Nice work! For the future, maybe try brass belaying pins if you cannot make wooden ones to scale. Yours look well shaped but pretty fat. These are not the easiest things to make, but it can be done😀 Allan
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I thought I was the only one crazy enough to choose Victory for a first model, albeit 43 years ago. Nice work so far. With all the golf courses in your country I am not so sure I would ever have time to finish such a project. Allan
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Totally agree with Phil that it is great. I did a little digging and plywood is an interesting thing. Aircraft ply has the most stringent criteria in manufacturing for plywoods. A description from Wicks Aircraft ---> it is made with thermosetting, synthetic resin type glues. Geniune aircraft plywood meets MIL-P-6070B which requires that the plywood be tested for general condition of boards, deviations of thickness, moisture content, tensile strength of wood, gluing strength, bending test, torsion test, immersion test and boiling test. (The boiling test is three hours!) No voids (filled or otherwise) are permitted as is allowed in cabinet grade that is found in the big hardware/lumber stores. https://www.wicksaircraft.com/c/aircraft-plywood/ They have larger sheets and the prices looks competitive, especially for the thinnest stock. Allan
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There are four APA grades of plywood, A, B, C, and D. A is best but it is not cheap. Allan
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Hi Ross, I don't think you are misreading the plans, the plans look to be incorrect. There is a great description in your Lees book (congrats on getting a copy!!) on pages 2 to 4. Thanks for the compliment when you wrote You have forgotten more about ships than I will ever know, it was a very nice thing to say. Trust me Ross, I am no expert compared to many members here and I do forget things from terminology to methods all the time. I just have been fortunate to have accumulated a good library of books, plans, and contracts over the years and use them as references all the time. Regarding forgetting things, in general it's part of life and in the words of Bette Davis: 😀 Allan
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Sizzolo, do the plans call for top and butt planking as you show (or anchor stock if I am seeing it wrong in the photo) Either way it is SUPER that you included it, and impressive if the kit did show it in the instructions. WELL DONE!! Allan
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Hi Ross, Live and learn, this is a new one for me. Which lines would have a block attached to the wooldings? I realize this may not apply to ships other than those of the RN, but based on James Lees', The Masting and Rigging English Ships of War, there were always wooden bands nailed to the mast on the top and bottom of rope wooldings so they could not slip on the mast. This makes sense for any nation. I cannot picture how a block can be rigged to these with them enclosed inside the wooden rings. Thanks Allan
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Clever way to have the risers (thwart support strips) in the right location. This one I want to remember. Thanks for sharing. Allan
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- 24 ft Launch
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