allanyed

100 years ago tomorrow afternoon,  local time, May 7, 1915 Lusitania was sunk by the German submarine U-20. 
The attached is Lusitania at the end of her record breaking crossing in 1907.  Dead Wake is a great book on her final days.
 
Allan

The above answers your question but I must comment on the drawing you posted.  You are right, the quality is a bit off.  How can the ends of the line wrapped around the drum both drop from the same side of the drum?  Reminds me of some far out designs in Mad Magazine back in the day like the 2/3 tined fork in the attached picture.
Allan

Al,
 
If you are not happy with the filling and sanding after you try to fix one or more,  you can still remove them and throw them out and put on new ones.   Lots of opinions for you to consider, and they are all free    Don't forget, the slots will have slight angles to them to match the angle of the shrouds. 
 
Allan

Al,
 
A picture of what you have done so far would sure help here.  It sounds like you have already drilled the holes that are  suggested in the plans but you can fill them with some sanding dust and glue.  There should not be any holes other than for eye bolts in some cases. .  Normally the slots are only  as wide as two strands of the strop wire, 1.6mm in your case,  and the depth of the slot is equal to one diameter, that is 0.8mm.  With a slot that is 0.8 mm deep, you can more easily cut this with a chisel or sharp blade rather than a saw.  
   
Allan

Al,
 
A picture of what you have done so far would sure help here.  It sounds like you have already drilled the holes that are  suggested in the plans but you can fill them with some sanding dust and glue.  There should not be any holes other than for eye bolts in some cases. .  Normally the slots are only  as wide as two strands of the strop wire, 1.6mm in your case,  and the depth of the slot is equal to one diameter, that is 0.8mm.  With a slot that is 0.8 mm deep, you can more easily cut this with a chisel or sharp blade rather than a saw.  
   
Allan

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 117 – Poop Deck/Fancy Rail
 
In the first picture, the aft section of the margin plank is pinned in place against the tops of the stern timbers.
 

 
This piece has a hook scarph on each end.  The rudder post will be cut off later.  This picture also shows the framing of the boomkins and aft mooring bits.  In the next picture the next section of margin plank is being fitted to the hook scarph on the aft section and around the mooring bits.
 

 
In the next picture the poop margin planks have been fitted forward to the breast beam and the aft sections of fancy rail are pinned in place.
 

 
The fancy rail forms a cap over the stern timbers, deck margin plank and the top strakes of planking around the stern.  The coamings for the two skylights are pinned in place for fitting the head ledges.  In the next picture, the poop deck has been planked – leaving open areas to view the cabins underneath – and the skylight coamings are in place.
 

 
The fancy rail has again been pinned in place.  To keep water out of the cabin deck this had to be caulked inside and out.  To have sufficient overlap of the poop margin plank, it was made 15" wide – as on the forecastle.  I stepped these rails down to 12" along the main deck.
 
The next picture shows the painted parts of the fancy rail being installed.
 

 
The step down in breadth on the forward piece can just be seen at the break of the poop in this picture.  I spent quite a bit of time deciding how to handle this fancy rail width issue.  Most midship sections show a narrow rail – about 12" – but I finally decided this would not provide sufficient overlap of the poop and forecastle margin planks.  So, another one of those judgment decisions.
 
The next picture shows the fancy rail fully installed aft of midship. 
 

 
After painting, the sections were glued and pinned.  As the pins were removed, copper wired epoxied bolts were installed down into each toptimber to reinforce the attachment.  The bolts were filed off and the top of the rail received more finish painting.  And the next picture shows it at the bow. 
 

 
The last picture shows the model with the completed fancy rail. 
 

 
I have been looking forward for a long time to the capping off of those toptimbers.
 
Ed

Kevin
 
It is probably a bit late, but I have a pretty nice piece of keel from one of the skipjacks that was rebuilt at St. Michaels about 10 years ago or so.  If you or anyone else interested would like a chunk to cut up for pieces of a future "Jack"  model, PM me.  
 
Allan

The State Library of NSW has posted on-line the Phillip Parker King - album of drawings and engravings, 1802-1902.  Each image can be viewed in very large detail (see my link on the previous page for one example.
 
The description and image thumbnails can be found here: http://www.acmssearch.sl.nsw.gov.au/search/itemDetailPaged.cgi?itemID=442570
A very detailed sketch is here http://www.acmssearch.sl.nsw.gov.au/search/itemLargeCopyright.cgi?itemID=921633&size=full&album=1&collection=823393&parent=442570(higher resolution image of one shown in the first post by Rick)

Kevin
 
It is probably a bit late, but I have a pretty nice piece of keel from one of the skipjacks that was rebuilt at St. Michaels about 10 years ago or so.  If you or anyone else interested would like a chunk to cut up for pieces of a future "Jack"  model, PM me.  
 
Allan

Jeers
 
With the arrival of the rigging thread I was waiting on I could now finish off the Jeers on the fore and main masts.
 
These start with a double block on one side. It reaves through the large jeer block under the Top on one side, through the block in the centre of the yard, back up through the other block under the top, and finishes with another double block :
 

 
The tackle of the jeer falls. This is the main mast :
 

 
And the fore mast :
 

 
The falls of the tackles go through the sheaves in the Jeer Bitts and belay around the Bitt Rail :
 

 
 Danny

David
If you run into any problems with the galleries get David Antscherl's book on the Comet.    It includes a 17 page chapter on building the quarter galleries that alone is worth the price of the book. 
 
Allan

I agree with Brian C - The Model Machines Drawplate  is brilliant - one of my favourite non powered toys!! I have used bamboo BBQ skewers to treenail/Trennel/trunnel on my last two builds. I think tree nailing and another dimension to the hobby and, if done well, looks great. I found that the bamboo skewers went through the drawplate well, but had to be sliced longitudinally several times in order to fit into the larger holes. This meant slicing with a hobby knife. I found this to be a pain for two reasons. Firstly getting the hobby knife to slice evenly along the length of the skewer was sometimes difficult. Secondly I tended to cut, stab and splinter myself  with the knife &  bamboo slivers - klutz!!
 
I ended up making a simple jig to halve, quarter and then further divide the skewer if necessary - without blood and swearing!!!(see pics below)
 

 
The Byrnes Drawplate - an engineering masterpiece!!!
 

 
- take 2 identical pieces of pine which are slightly bigger than a razor blade and drill 2 holes through them (clamp together for drilling so holes line up perfectly in both)
 
- insert  bolts which will be fitted with wing nuts for quick adjustment
 
- Fit both pieces of wood together and tighten wing nuts
 
- Drill a hole (about the same size as a bbq skewer) down the centre of the 2 pieces of wood - make sure that half the hole you drill is in each piece of wood. - a bench mounted drill will achieve much more accurate results than a hand held one.
 
- Do the same with a smaller drill bit - for use once you have quartered your skewer.
 

 
- fit your razorblade over the bolts
 

 
- slide the top half of the jig over the bolts and tighten with the wing nuts
 

 
- the jig can be adjusted by tightening or loosening the wing nuts - this will accommodate any slight variation in skewer diameter.
 
- Push then pull the skewer over the razor to produce an even slice.
 
                                 Happy tree nailing!!

Dana M. Wegner (Museum Standards and Ship Models: The Influence of Professionalism. Nautical Research Journal, Vol. 39, Everett, 1994. pp 44-49, ill.) 
 
In the journal entry referenced above, Mr. Wegner reports that the standards used by the U. S. Navy and Smithsonian have been relatively unchanged since 1945.
 
From the the Curator of Navy Ship Models, U.S. Department of the Navy Ship Model Program
 
PART 1: Durability of Materials
 
As part of the permanent collection of the Department of the Navy, it is reasonable to expect a new ship model to last one hundred years before deterioration is visible. Therefore, resistance of models and parts to the actions of temperature, humidity, and light is essential. Extreme care must be given to select materials which are known to be compatible and will not, in time, interact chemically.
 
Although only a few materials are prohibited in "Specifications for Construction of Exhibition Models of U.S Naval Vessels," some recently developed model-building materials and techniques should be avoided until sufficient time has passed to properly evaluate their longevity. Though some of these recently introduced materials may ultimately test superior to more traditional techniques, substances of unproven longevity should not be employed in models built under these specifications. It is advised that fiberglass resins, styrene, expanding foams, casting resins, and cyanoacrylate glues be avoided when other materials can possibly be used.
 
Workmanship
 
Workmanship shall be in accordance, in every respect, with the best model-building practices. Hulls shall be smooth, fair, and symmetrical; without blemishes, sap pockets, or tool marks, and shall be scraped and sand-papered to smooth surface. Machined parts shall bear no tool marks. Castings shall bear no visible mold marks. In no case shall glue alone be deemed sufficient to hold deck houses, fittings, or other appurtenances in place. Mechanical fastenings such as screws and pins shall be used in addition to adhesives.

Range
 
Models shall be museum quality and shall consist of the whole exterior of the vessel from keel and appendages to the top of the highest antenna or fitting, and shall include interiors of such enclosures, conning stations, deck house topside stations, gun and missile stations, hangars and bays as are accessible to weather without opening watertight doors or ports. Generally, all items on the prototype twelve inches or larger for 1:96 scale (six inches or larger for 1:48 scale) will be reproduced.
 
Rigging. Running and standing rigging and cable antennas shall be represented. Windlasses shall be wound with appropriate cable or line.
 
Ports and Windows. Large windows shall be indicated on the model by clear acrylic plastic. Ports shall be transparent, and shall have a hole bored behind them to give an appearance of depth.
Gun Turrets. Gun turrets shall have the openings in face plates required for elevation of the guns. Where required, gun shrouds shall be represented.
 
Aircraft and Vehicles. Where appropriate for the mission of the actual vessel, and visible on the model, scale aircraft or vehicles will be provided. Landing pads shall be provided with at least one representative scale aircraft.
 
Small Boats. Small boats shall be mounted on davits or otherwise as actually carried and shall show all details, motors, and equipment twelve inches or larger in actual size. If represented with weather covers, gripes and all fastenings visible are to be shown. Landing craft and whale boats shall be without covers and shall show all exposed details and equipment.
 
Special Features. Special functional features peculiar to the vessel (for example: stern doors, towing devices, special antennas, fire fighting gear, etc.) shall be shown.
 
PART 2: Durability of Materials
 
Rigging
 
Layed rope shall be represented with first-quality, twisted, linen line. Wire cable will be used to represent wire cable. Wire will be used to represent wire. Care shall be given to insure the proper color of all rigging. Knots and seizings may be secured with thinned white glue.

Flags
 
Flags shall be such material that a natural appearance as in a calm is achieved.

Deck Covering
 
Deck covering shall be represented as installed on the vessel, including safety treads and nonskid areas. Decks which are bright shall show planking, seams, scarfs, butts, and miters, and shall be rubbed to a dull finish. Paper shall not be used to represent deck coverings.

Hull
 
Hulls shall be built up in lifts of clear, first-grade mahogany or basswood; doweled and glued together with water-resistant glue. The wood shall be completely free of knots, checks, and sap pockets and shall be thoroughly seasoned. Models over 12 inches beam must be hollowed for reduction of weight The hull shall be composed of the least number of parts necessary to achieve the proper shape. An excessive number of glue joints shall be avoided. On models less than 12 inches beam, hull lifts shall be cut to the full body shape: lifts shall not be cut in halves, thereby creating a glue seam along the vertical centerline of the model. The lifts shall conform accurately to lines of the vessel as shown by the plans. A stable, durable, flexible body putty may be used in moderation to fill gaps.
 
Hull Inspection
Prior to applying any sealer or primer to the hull, the hull shall, at the builder's expense, be crated and sent to the Curator of Models, Code 301, Naval Surface Warfare Center, Carderock Division, West Bethesda, Maryland 20817-5700 for inspection and testing.
 
The Curator of Models will inspect the hull for wood-type, grain, seasoning, putty, glue-type, checks, excessive glue joints, and conformity to plans. Samples of wood, glue, and glued pieces may also be required for destructive tests. The Curator of Models shall return the hull, collect freight, as certification of compliance.

Hull Fittings
 
Propeller shafts, struts, bearings, bilge keels, etc. will be made from brass, aluminum, or stainless steel.
 
Propellers
 
Propellers should be cast in bronze. If another material is used it shall first be copper plated and then brass plated. Plastic propellers are not permitted.

Ship Fittings
 
Fittings and accessories shall be of metal or other suitable material which will permanently hold its shape and will not deteriorate from temperature, humidity, light or chemical reaction with other parts, paint, or the atmosphere. Lead or lead-bearing compounds are not suitable for any component. No ferrous materials shall be used.
 
Masts, Antenna Masts, Yardarms, etc.
All masts, antenna masts, shafts, yardarms, booms, etc. less than 3/16" diameter shall be metal.

Solder
 
All solder points shall be silver soldered wherever possible.
 
PART 3: Paint
 
General Requirements
 
Painting of models shall receive careful attention. Special care shall be given to select compatible paints that demonstrate the best resistance to color changes, cracking, peeling, and fluctuations in temperature and humidity. All parts of the model shall have a surface treatment representing the appearance of the actual vessel if reduced in scale. The Curator of Models, NSWCCD, may provide paint chips upon request. In all cases, the models shall be spray painted with opaque lacquer. Paint shall be applied thinly and evenly so that fine detail will not be obliterated. The use of metallic paints such as silver or gold is discouraged. The use of white enamel or natural varnish is not permitted. See also "Schedule of Materials."

Painted Wood
 
Wooden parts shall be sufficiently filled, sealed, and primed so that when rubbed down, the wood grain is not visible.

Painted Metal
 
Metal parts shall be well-cleaned and then primed before painting.

Stripes and Markings
 
Hull numbers, ship's names, flight deck and draft markings, as well as any other prominent signage, shall be carefully applied in paint. Tape, paper, or decals are not permitted.
 
PART 4: Inspection
 
Beyond the hull inspection required in section 2.4.1, the model may be inspected by the Curator of Models or his designate during construction and upon completion at the contractor's plant.
 
PART 5: Delivery
 
 
Schedule of Materials
 
The contractor shall provide, at the time of delivery of the model, a schedule of materials and brand-name products employed in the construction of the model. The schedule of materials will be added to the historical file retained for each model.
 
Sample Schedule of Materials.The schedule of materials written in tabular form by the contractor should include, but is not limited to, the following data: A. Type of wood used for hull. B. Type of wood filler used. Include brand name. C. Type of primer used. Include brand name. D. All paints used. Include brand name and color designation. E. All glues used. Include brand and areas where employed. F. Any other significant materials. Include clear sprays, stains, waxes, and the types and application areas of any sheet, cast, foam, or resinous plastics (if any).

Transportation
 
The contractor shall be responsible for delivery of the model and exhibition case in good condition to the location designated in the contract.

Deviations
 
Desired deviations, if any, from these specifications will be enumerated on a case-by-case basis through the normal contract process.
 
Reprinted from http://www.navsea.navy.mil

There are some very nice sets of plans free for downloading at the Library of Congress including the schooners Lettie Howard and Ernestina.  Both are beautiful vessels and can be built POB, POF, or solid hull. 
 
Google Library of Congress and the vessel name and the series of plans and photos will come up.  They can be downloaded in TIFF and a few other formats and are quite clear when enlarged.  For the Ernestina, www.loc.gov/pictures/item/ma1719/   When it opens, on the left side of the page,  click on drawings or photos as you wish to see.
 
Allan

Imack
 
The vertical dimension of the keel does not change except for a slight upturn of a perhaps 6 inches at the forward end to allow a boxing joint to be made to tie to the lower stem piece.  The width does in fact change as it tapers slightly forward and aft.   My point in bringing this up is that you are a beginner and we love having new blood here, but listen to those that have been there.  Do a simple model first, or, if you really want to do a more technical model, plan to spend a year or two or more.  You have more mentors available here than you would probably want, so you are lucky fellow compared to those of us that had only what few books we could find in the library back in the day.  Take the advice of those that have been there before you.
 
Allan

iMack
 
Regarding your question about the thickness of the keel and frames, the keel varies forward and aft from center.  A frame's siding varies as they rise as does its moulded dimensions. 
 
If you had posted this two days ago I would say you were doing an April Fools joke.  Please say 6  weeks  is a typo and you meant  60 weeks. 
 
 
Allan

iMack
 
Regarding your question about the thickness of the keel and frames, the keel varies forward and aft from center.  A frame's siding varies as they rise as does its moulded dimensions. 
 
If you had posted this two days ago I would say you were doing an April Fools joke.  Please say 6  weeks  is a typo and you meant  60 weeks. 
 
 
Allan

I agree, Sharp and small.  Also, watching a few carving videos on youtube or vimeo, where the carve is using the V chisel in different applications can be of great help.  This gives you an idea of how the tools work and what to expect.
 
Gwyl

Eddie
 
If you live in the US near the ocean, there may be help.  The Lettie is in NY.  New England has several Gloucestermen that serve as examples and there may be appropriate schooners on the West Coast.   Nothing like seeing the real thing to get it right.     If you live other than in the US, I am sure there are plenty of members that may be able to steer you to an applicable schooner.
 
If you do not have access to the actual boats in the water, The American Fishing Schooner is your best bet, book wise, IMHO.  I have used it in guiding me through 4 schooners over the past few years.    You can also find   schooner photos on the internet for some fine up close details although most are under sail.
 
 
Allan

Don't worry about not having  the milling machine, it won't work for a rabbet as the rabbet is dynamic for the most part and the set up on the mill would be static.    The Fully Framed Model Vol. I describes the process very well on pages 44 and 45..  A SHARP vee gouge and/or knife and chisel will do the job beautifully if you follow the advice of Russ and take baby steps.
 
Allan

Don't worry about not having  the milling machine, it won't work for a rabbet as the rabbet is dynamic for the most part and the set up on the mill would be static.    The Fully Framed Model Vol. I describes the process very well on pages 44 and 45..  A SHARP vee gouge and/or knife and chisel will do the job beautifully if you follow the advice of Russ and take baby steps.
 
Allan

Patrick, Druxey, Mark T, Germanus, Row, Jack, Igor, Carl, Bob, John, Gary, Mike, Dan, Denis, Ed, Mark.
 
Thank all so very much for the well wishes, it is indeed great that Judy is well enough to be home and she has even gone back to work at the Library, (it is a small rural one and Judy is the Librarian  Manager she was looking forward to getting back so much.
 
P.S. : the Most Honourable and Noble Swiss Watchmakers´ Society at Geneva would be pleased to send you their application form.
Germanus this made me smile, They are way way above my league, but as a kid I wanted to be a watchmaker..... it is a funny world we live in. When I was 15 I had 24 chiming clocks in my bedroom all sort of them, picked them up in junk shops in England, they would be hard to find these days, but in the late 50's early 60's they were a dime a dozen.
 
I am almost sure that if to fill in couple of drops of gasoline in this engine it will start working.
Igor, as soon as she is ready that is what will happen.
 
The cover plate for the cavity on the top of the head, took for ever to fit, but it had to be precise and snug before I could drill the holes.
 
After the blank was fitted I flipped the head upside down and clamped it in the milling machine on top of a sacrifice block of brass, I used brass so that the plate had something the same density so that the hole would not form a bur on the drill exit.
 
The set up included using a couple of the original integrated spark plugs as drill bushings to act as guides for pilot drilling the holes in the plate
 

 
After the .078 hole was drilled the bushing was removed in order to then drill out a clearance hole for the spark plug which is .136"
 

 

 
The head was then indexed over to line up the second hole this was done by trial and error, by raising and lowering the .078 drill until it slipped into the hole easily. I did ensure that the upside down bit ran true before doing the set up.
 

 
Then drilled out the second hole.
 

 
Then repeated the clearance hole for the plug.
 

 
I made a couple of large .031 brass washers to act as the small circular covers these will get mounted to the oval plate with four small 00x 90 round head screws.
 

 

 

 
It is great to get a bit more time in the shop, and I am spending more with Judy now that she is back on her feet.
 
Thanks for all the likes as well.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Just finished planking the port side.  I added the stern post.   Now to treenail the port side and add the molding...   It feels good to have it all planked.  It will feel even better when the treenailing is done.   I was getting tired of seeing the hull without its stern post.  I think it really makes a difference at this point.   At least from the starboard side.
 

 

 

 

 

Thank you Carl, David and George.
 
Figurehead
 
My figurehead arrived the other day . This was carved by Janos - a brilliant job as usual, and something I don't have much talent at .
 
The only thing I really had to do was fit it - this took the best part of 2 hours, as I had to CAREFULLY cut the slot between it's wings to fit around the stem :
 

 

 

 

 
All done .
 

 

 
 Danny

We are nearly at the 100 year anniversary of the sinking of the Lusitania.  I would like to recommend Dead Wake by Erik Larson which goes into the background of many of the passengers and crew of the Lusitania under the command of Captain William Thomas Turner as well as the German submarine U-20 under the command of Kapitanleutnant Walther Schwieger.  She was torpedoed a little after 2 in the afternoon of May 7, 2015 and sank in 18 minutes.
 
This is a non-fiction work but nearly reads like a novel.  Mr. Larson has done his homework and written a book that is not to be missed.   I could go on for a long time on this book but suffice it to say that it is "must read" for anyone with any interest in maritime history, the history of WWI, or history in general for that matter. 
 
Allan