pompey2

I have to say that I find this approach gives me some troubles.
I rig blocks exactly as the video shows, an S with a whipping in the middle.
Then pull the ends to tighten around spar or block as appropriate.
I then liberally 'paint' with 50/50 PVA as I don't like CA.
They look real good.
But the problem I sometimes get is that 'bitter' end as it were of the loop going around the block is only held by the whipping friction.
When it is rigged on the ship the block has a tensioning force applied.
That force is sometimes enough to pull the end of the loop out from under the whipping.
So what I now do is exactly as detailed, then add an extra ingredient:
Using a very fine line (I use fly tying thread) and a needle I run a couple of stiches straight through the whipping at 90 degrees.
Thereby cross stitching both loops.
 
Nick

Richard
This is the Jig I use.
It is good for blocks, dead eyes, rigging hooks, eyes and just loops.
I clamp the base to the desk.

Then use a modified clothes peg, push a long pin through holes in the peg and the hole in the block.

Then the peg fits into the base. There is a 'dowel' on the peg and a hole for the pin.

Thread is fed through around the block, caught with a clip and an elastic band tensions the thread.

I then seize the number of turns I want using the traditional ‘trapped loop’ method.

I pull the end of the thread through the loop and pull out the loop. Push the siezing up tight to the block.

Take out of jig, paint with 50/50 PVA and trim when dry.

 
I'm sure some will think this overkill.
But I have done hundreds of blocks (even the smallest of sizes), loops, eyes etc. so have gotten pretty slick.
And I love the way the it looks.
 
Nick

Richard
This is the Jig I use.
It is good for blocks, dead eyes, rigging hooks, eyes and just loops.
I clamp the base to the desk.

Then use a modified clothes peg, push a long pin through holes in the peg and the hole in the block.

Then the peg fits into the base. There is a 'dowel' on the peg and a hole for the pin.

Thread is fed through around the block, caught with a clip and an elastic band tensions the thread.

I then seize the number of turns I want using the traditional ‘trapped loop’ method.

I pull the end of the thread through the loop and pull out the loop. Push the siezing up tight to the block.

Take out of jig, paint with 50/50 PVA and trim when dry.

 
I'm sure some will think this overkill.
But I have done hundreds of blocks (even the smallest of sizes), loops, eyes etc. so have gotten pretty slick.
And I love the way the it looks.
 
Nick

Alexandru, Outstanding simply outstanding!
 
Nick

I thought I might post the method I recently used to create my Hammock netting on Caldercrafts Victory 1:72.
I tried a couple of different things, couldn't find anything to buy-either wrong scale or wrong colour.
Victorys nets are diamond in natural.
So I decided to 'weave' them.
Again I tried a couple of methods.
Pins were not the best idea because the pin diameter offsets the thread and you get into more complex winding.
Plus with pins you have to keep constant tension.
So hit on a different method.
First i spent an age getting the nesting optimal.

Picked a shape fairly oblong and found a bit of ex shelf unit (nice shiny surface)
Then I took some offcuts of ply clamped them together and ran a fine tooth saw through them, used a gauge to space the cuts every 3mm.
The pitch between threads is 2mm
Mounted the strips to all four sides.

Placed a bit of .5 x .5 section inside each wall.
That meant that the thread sat off the surface and made threading easier and stopeed the glue sticking it down
Then ran a thread in one diagonal across the whole surface (25 metres!)
The really good thing is that the thin slots grip the thread and no tensioning is required except for each run.

Then ran in the other direction, under, over, under, over etc.......
A light brush with watered down PVA as I went.
I 'tweeked' the spacing to get it even just prior to the glue.
hey presto a bunch of good looking netting, pliable but with good glued joints.
All is cost was a big serving of time and patience
 
Nick

Richard
This is the Jig I use.
It is good for blocks, dead eyes, rigging hooks, eyes and just loops.
I clamp the base to the desk.

Then use a modified clothes peg, push a long pin through holes in the peg and the hole in the block.

Then the peg fits into the base. There is a 'dowel' on the peg and a hole for the pin.

Thread is fed through around the block, caught with a clip and an elastic band tensions the thread.

I then seize the number of turns I want using the traditional ‘trapped loop’ method.

I pull the end of the thread through the loop and pull out the loop. Push the siezing up tight to the block.

Take out of jig, paint with 50/50 PVA and trim when dry.

 
I'm sure some will think this overkill.
But I have done hundreds of blocks (even the smallest of sizes), loops, eyes etc. so have gotten pretty slick.
And I love the way the it looks.
 
Nick

Richard
This is the Jig I use.
It is good for blocks, dead eyes, rigging hooks, eyes and just loops.
I clamp the base to the desk.

Then use a modified clothes peg, push a long pin through holes in the peg and the hole in the block.

Then the peg fits into the base. There is a 'dowel' on the peg and a hole for the pin.

Thread is fed through around the block, caught with a clip and an elastic band tensions the thread.

I then seize the number of turns I want using the traditional ‘trapped loop’ method.

I pull the end of the thread through the loop and pull out the loop. Push the siezing up tight to the block.

Take out of jig, paint with 50/50 PVA and trim when dry.

 
I'm sure some will think this overkill.
But I have done hundreds of blocks (even the smallest of sizes), loops, eyes etc. so have gotten pretty slick.
And I love the way the it looks.
 
Nick

to continue:
 

 

 
Finally the other boats now hung from the davits. 
 
And I do mean finally because that is now me all done. One HMS Victory complete.
 
I have also been working on a cabinet for her. The cabinet project was a pretty major undertaking on its own so I have started a different thread to show the process. Here is a link if you are interested.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13173-display-case-for-hms-victory/
 
 
But here is a few finished photos of the old girl and some in her final resting place (that sounds a bit terminal) – All that is left to be said is – Phew, now what’s next?
 
      
 

 
Looks like the pumpkin approves 
 

 

 

 
 
Thanks for following along, it’s been a blast.
And a very big thank you for kind comments and likes.
Nick
 
PS actually I know whats next - USF Confederacy.

To Continue:
 

 
Then onto the Anchors. 
   
The Starboard Sheet anchor secured.
 

 
The Cat falls rigged for Bower and the anchor secured.
 

 
 And the Cable led into the Hawse hole.
 

 
Both sides.
 

 
Now the Tack/Sheet/Clue garnets can be hung from the foremast yard and the lines run and secured.
   
And the same for the Main Yard.
 

 

 
Here they cross then reeve through the hull to be tied off on the gun deck cleats, tricky job that.
 
yet more to go.
 
Nick

Before you glue in the bulkheads work out how you will keep them square whilst drying.
If they are out then pretty much everything else is.
Some people use lego blocks (surprisingly square) or you can make up some braces to hold them.
It's a good idea to have all of that detail prepared before any gluing.
 
Nick

Like most I use PVA for wood to wood wherever possible.
I limit CA to metal to metal or to wood.
But what does not seem to get a lot of comments here is two pack epoxy
For anything to anything I find it is the best bond.
Drawbacks are setting time, needs clamping.
And often leaves excess showing at joints, difficult to clean off.
Mixing means extra effort but if I want to be absolutely sure of a joint, especially with limited contact area it is my go to solution.
Things like : eye bolt (pins) into decks, metal parts directly to wood, Bits when directly on deck, dead eye strops to channels, cleats etc.
 
Nick

Hi Michael
It's nice to see you are making the Caldercraft Victory, I hope you enjoy it.
I will be following along on your journey.
 
Nick

Hi Chris
 
Nice to see another Pompey lad on the site.
And as well as that in common I am also modelling the Victory, and have been for some time!!
Obviously it had to be done at some time.
I have been looking through your log, it looks like a great job, especially if this is a first, you should be proud.
I will have to keep up to date with your progress,
 
Anyway, time to get down to the Still and West
 
Nick

A great result Gil, loving it.
 
Nick

Gil, A great job in every aspect. I have been keep track of your build for quite a while and it has been a great source of guidance.
she looks just great.
 
Nick

Tony
 
here is the 'stem', search the site for the cross bars etc
 
http://www.turners-retreat.co.uk/1-tool-rest-stem
 
Nick

Andrew,  you can cut the eye on the needle such to give you an open area to lay the thread into the eye rather than having to feed it through the eye.  This useful when trying to "catch" a line that has one end secured and you need to belay the other end.

Here is another option for desktop mills.

It is from a UK company Warco http://www.warco.co.uk/milling-machines/32-wm-16-variable-speed-milling-machine.html
They offer a big range of sizes and functionality as well as a host of tooling and other options plus very competitive prices.
 
I offer up this because I have just bought the one shown, just waiting for delivery, very excited.
 
Nick

Here is another option for desktop mills.

It is from a UK company Warco http://www.warco.co.uk/milling-machines/32-wm-16-variable-speed-milling-machine.html
They offer a big range of sizes and functionality as well as a host of tooling and other options plus very competitive prices.
 
I offer up this because I have just bought the one shown, just waiting for delivery, very excited.
 
Nick

Hi hjx
 
Thanks for the details and photos.
Does your friend market them?
Do you have a link of something?
 
nick

I would most definetly buy the Pegasus kit. It would be great if it came in two wood selection lists (1) bargin  requires  painting/stain to finish and (2) quality high end wood that requires only poly but has contrast. The Pegasus really interest me while the others two don’t, just not a fishing/trade craft guy.
 
 

A further note, hjx.
Could you tell us which type of machine you use?
Do you have any photos of it please.
 
Thanks
 
Nick

Hi hjx
 
Thanks for the comments.
Rigidity is certainly an important factor especially to achieve a decent accuracy.
But these are not milling machines so I would only expect to be taking light cuts.
That is why I hope to evaluate our work one, so far it looks good, but it has not been challenged, it's mostly used for foam cutting.
I don't think I have a great need for a fourth axis.
That would be useful for rotating the work piece whilst machining, like turning.
But I can handle that on a lathe.
Being able to approach the work with the spindle at an angle is not something I think I need.
But I will update this subject as I move further forward.
 
Thanks
Nick

Hi All
 
I have been getting very interested in these little machines recently.
Only really for fine wood milling.
You see a lot of them across ebay and Amazon, pretty much all of the home market ones seem to come from China.
They are three axis, USB linked, approx. A4 table size and come with a software package.
And the prices are very good.
But that is as far as I have got, in a lot of respects they seem too good to be true.
Has anybody got any experience of using one?
Or even seen one in action.
I would like to understand a lot more - build quality, spares availability, ease of programming, reliability etc etc  
 
Nick

I have let the subject of a new tool rest for a bit but I'm picking it back up now.
Part of the reason is that we recently got one at my workplace.
It is a different type of design to the ones I was looking at, but more suitable for the things I need it for.
Most relevant is that the type I am now considering use a commercially available router for the cutting spindle (Dewalt or Makita)
That then comes with a 1/4 chuck so is a lot more flexible with regard to tools it will accept and is also made to specifically resist some side loading.
So is capable of milling in wood across 3 axis.
 
This is the design I am considering, and is the one we have at work, there are a couple of alternative suppliers:


Prices are more but still keeping me interested.
This type including router, milling kit, controller and software is circa £1300 for 750mm x 500mm bed with 140mm Z axis.
I intend to get to know the one at work a little first then probably go for it.
The other thing that I like is that the ones I am looking at are UK or US made.
The two that look best to me are
https://www.robotshop.com/uk/carbide3d-shapeoko-3-robust-cnc-router-kit-us.html
and
http://ooznest.co.uk/3D-Printer-CNC-Kits-Bundles/OX-CNC-Machine/OX-CNC-Full-Kit
Nick