Quimp Slattery
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Everything posted by Quimp Slattery
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That not a surprise given the practice that you’re getting. 🙂 Every model genre seems to have tasks like this one. They can be soul crushing or a pleasant break from thinking. It all depends on the modeller’s state of mind. I hope you are enjoying the meditation. p.s. My book arrived. 🙂- 559 replies
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help with Corel Mystique running rigging
Quimp Slattery replied to edite's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
It helped me though, so thank you for your input. I’ve got the kit and the instructions are … unusual. 🤣 -
I have the same approach to the hobby. It makes wonderful brain food.
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Would you buy pre-owned wooden kits?
Quimp Slattery replied to Frank Burroughs's topic in Wood ship model kits
He's right you know. It's only a hobby, stop worrying about getting everything right in advance and just do it. Come on in, the water's lovely! 😁 -
Maybe you are thinking about those galleys with the slaves/criminals chained to their oars until death intervened. Legend has it that they could be smelt a mile downwind.
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In the days before flush toilets, wasn’t it universally ‘normal’ behaviour to use a chamber pot/commode (bucket) when a person didn’t wish to go outside to the privy? I lack evidence but think it likely that a sailor in a hurry would vomit or poop in a bucket as necessary and (discreetly or not) empty it into the sea later.
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Surely a question that only you can answer. Here’s an observation though. The grain of the rail’s wood, magnified by 100 times in length and width, or 10,000 times in area, is definitely not to scale. 🤯
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This is akin to writing poetry on grains of rice! It’s an astonishing process. Good luck with it.
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I believe that after a few months at sea copper plating turns green, brown, anything but 'copper' coloured. 😏 Good luck with your latest and perhaps last move. Four in a year is brutal, I've done three postings in the same period so I know. 🙂
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Aye, very true. Trafalgar was a perfect example of that. Being a physical coward myself, I can’t imagine how it felt watching the battle approaching all morning at walking pace. I’d have been a wreck! I neglected to mention how much I like your model. You have done a fine job of this fascinating vessel.
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I think that might be staining caused by the aggressive vapour emissions from the CA. I’ve seen similar marks form on plastic surfaces a little distance away from the actual glue. Perhaps better ventilation, forced draught of some kind, is what we need? The painted planking looks exactly right to me. It’s just like the real thing, as seen on ships like SS Great Britain in Bristol. Outstanding work!
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Fix uneven paint area
Quimp Slattery replied to DMM's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I was a plastic modeller of fifty years experience (and an airbrush user) who only recently became a novice in wood kits. I’ve stripped acrylic paint dozens of times so I’m speaking from experience here. I’ve also tried and failed with abrasives. Stripping the paint = thirty minutes and no damage to plastic. IPA is not toxic or even unpleasant. It’s also cheap. A few sheets of alcohol wetted kitchen roll will wipe away even thick paint like yours. You may need a toothbrush in heavily recessed details such as around the prop shafts and rudder. Abrasives will clog straight away, take ages and destroy the plastic surface details. You will need lots of paper. You won’t be able to sand around the details. If you do decide on sanding use wet and dry paper with lots of water, under a shower perhaps. And let the paint dry and cure really well - several days! I suggest trying both methods on a small inconspicuous areas before committing yourself. Good luck. Let us know how you get on. 🙂 -
Fix uneven paint area
Quimp Slattery replied to DMM's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I suggest that you strip it all off the plastic with IPA and start over with thinned paints in multiple coats giving plenty of drying time between layers. -
Yes you can. Isopropyl alcohol won’t damage polystyrene but will dissolve acrylic paint. (I am assuming you have used acrylic paint because of your suggested solvent.) Personally I would remove the paint that you don’t like and start again with primer and topcoat. Painting over the gloss is risky because gloss paint isn’t a very good base layer. Sanding it might lead to unwanted scratches and texture showing through.
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I'm sure I read somewhere that it wasn't original practice to taper below half of the plank width for strength reasons; a blunt ended stealer being preferred? Of course that doesn't matter at all if there's going to be a second planking on the top (which can follow whatever rules you like).
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I just did my rudder in exactly the same way, and I think it looks fabulous. Mine isn’t quite as good as yours because the cut outs are the wrong shape but I can live with that.
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I have found that when I run out of edge bending it’s time for a stealer. Maybe that would help?
- 152 replies
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It’s very good. Well done! Im trying to resist buying one for myself. 😁
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Would you buy pre-owned wooden kits?
Quimp Slattery replied to Frank Burroughs's topic in Wood ship model kits
I agree entirely. My first build and so far only completion was the Vanguard Models Zulu fishing boat. If you can find one of the smaller Vanguard models second hand, I think that would be perfect. They do pop up from time to time, as one of the ones I found was an HMS Alert - box worn but contents pristine - Price £102. (Er, I may have drifted into bragging, sorry. Only you guys understand. There's no-one else I could tell. 😏) -
Thinks: I wonder if it's possible to use black fishing line for deck caulking...
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