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rtropp

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Everything posted by rtropp

  1. rtropp
    Chuck, Beautiful work, as always. For the plank under the wales, did you use your laser cutter or cut by hand? If by hand, did you use the cardboard strip as the template or go back to your plans? Thanks, Richard
  2. rtropp
    For anyone interested, I just received a circular from Rockler that shows diamond stones, coarse and fine, on sale for $30 U.S. each. Richard
  3. rtropp
    Nigel, I can understand how time consuming it will be to complete the fastenings. I am going to try a similar use of the copper fastenings but will have to do a lot of practice. I will probably start with whatever gauge wire works with the #80 drill bit as it is more easily available. If I get good at it I will invest in the finer bits. I have found a place in the US that has them but they are still expensive :-) I look forward to seeing how the fastenings look on the grates and on the gun deck. Richard
  4. rtropp
    I am not sure if this helps in Australia, but Amazon has a similar item from Eurotool that is $15 to $20 US dollars depending on the size. Richard
  5. rtropp
    Nigel, thanks richard
  6. rtropp
    Pat, As we are discussing various soldering techniques, resistance soldering is welcome. I do not know much about it and would not mind hearing more as part of this discussion. I am trying to understand the strengths and weaknesses of each technique as they apply to our ship builds. To others who have a range of soldering tools. do you use them all in ship modeling or only a selection of them? Some seem to be overkill to this neophyte. For instance, tools such as the Smiths seem to be fairly involved for the simple soldering of tiny parts for the ship builds. Richard
  7. rtropp
    Hi Janos, what is the vinegar bath for? thanks, Richard
  8. rtropp
    thanks Bob Richard
  9. rtropp
    Bob, I think I am just going to have try both. I have already been fooling with a butane pencil torch but it does not have the temperature needed so will have to replace it, probably with the MicroMark one. I want to try the hard soldering (silver) as describe some members and that requires a higher temperature. At the same time, I am considering also trying out an iron to see if I am more comfortable with it. On Amazon their are a range of Wellers (and others) but some give power in watts others in temperature. Hard to compare. Given your experience, how much power do you think I will need in both and in degrees of temperature? Again, small parts for modeling will by my only use. Thanks, Richard
  10. rtropp
    Thomas, I will try files when I get to it. I will use the lathe since I already have it and it will help me increase my skill for other tasks. Thanks, Richard
  11. rtropp
    good tutorial I appreciate your posting it. It does talk to using an iron. Can you recommend any like that but show torch? thanks Richard
  12. rtropp
    Thanks guys, you have given me a lot to try out. Richard
  13. rtropp
    so when the product, like Solder-it, it says "silver bearing" that does not mean it is for silver soldering? The "silver brazing" ones on the linked page you provided all seem to be high temperature. Do all silver soldering require high temperature, if not which lower temperature one would be recommended to try. And would it require a torch or iron? I think I got confused again :-) but I am having fun with it. Richard
  14. rtropp
    Russ, I checked the specs on STL 1205-655. It lists the melting temperature at 1145-1205 degrees F. I thought that might be a little high for my inexpensive butane torch but the specs say the torch handles "1300 degrees max" so it should work. At $33 the STL 1205-655 seems a little pricey. The Solder-It paste I am using is only 10$, its specs include a much lower melting point: This is a new tube of silver bearing solder paste At warm temperatures the silver bearing solder paste will speed up soldering tasks because it works with the heat of a match or lighter This works on ferrous and non ferrous metals Will join 22 different combinations of metals This paste melts at only 430 degreesF This paste does not list the mix of ingredients so I cannot compare the two but given the different melting points I imagine they are different. I am not sure how the difference in melting temperatures impact the ease of difficulty of soldering as we do on models or whether the STL 1205-655 would provide increased precision. If it would, then it would be worth the purchase to test out. What do you all think? Richard
  15. rtropp
    Thomas, your belaying pins look great. I recently acquired a Proxxon wood lathe and was wondering if it was possible to work that fine without a higher end, metal lathe (Sherline, etc.) After seeing your work, the answer is an obvious yes but it is not so obvious how long it will take for me to learn how to do it :-) Did you use chisels, sandpaper, or some other type of cutter? Thanks for all the detailed photos. Richard
  16. rtropp
    Russ, I have "Silver Bearing Wire Soldering Paste Welding Jewelry by Solder-It". Is that the same as the product you mentioned? Richard
  17. rtropp
    I guess that, like a lot of other things, it just takes practice. Richard
  18. rtropp
    I looked up the price of the smith's little torch and it looks like a pricey proposition. That is probably something I would consider once I have more experience. I have been trying a torch with a silver solder paste as well as with some some regular solder. I have never used a soldering iron so am not sure of the differences in control. Aside from the issue of soft vs. hard, what opinions are there about control of the solder in doing fine work? For instance, with the torch, if i try to use a small bit of solder, the torch will blow it away. When I use the silver solder/flux paste I have no control of the flux and where it will flow. Thanks for sharing Richard
  19. rtropp
    Nigel, I am checking my understanding because I think I will experiment with this techniques. You bought 1.8mm bits with 1.5mm wire. You will use the rolling technique with the 1.5mm wire. Why did you allow the extra 3mm between the hole (1.8mm) and the wire (1.5mm)? Also, what tool did you use to roll the nail heads? Thanks, Richard
  20. rtropp
    I like natural but I would want the prototype painted for accuracy. The reason is that I am just toying with the idea of using different woods to reflect color (or at least shades) and having the prototype painted would let me know the degree of dark and light wood to use. Richard.
  21. rtropp
    Bill, thanks for the advice. Did know about heating item and letting solder flow where flux was placed. I will need to work on that. Richard
  22. rtropp
    thanks guys, I needed to buy some wood and wanted to get it right. Richard
  23. rtropp
    Hi all, I have the pintle and gudgeons finished and the pins are holding in the pintle... I am pleased about that. I have formed the eye bolts for the pendants But I am not sure how to size the eye bolt. I looked through the practicum but could not find the section that shows setting up the pendants to the rudder. Might just be these old eyes are not too good at refocusing after using the magnifiers. Can anyone give me the page number where it is described in Chuck's practicum. I would like to see the parts involved before I attach anything to the rudder. Thanks, Richard
  24. rtropp
    Hi all. I just wanted to make sure I have my measurements correct. I should use 3/16" thick wood for the parts of the frames? Thanks Richard
  25. rtropp
    Hi, a very basic question. Why is it called silver soldering? Thanks, Richard

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