HOLIDAY DONATION DRIVE - SUPPORT MSW - DO YOUR PART TO KEEP THIS GREAT FORUM GOING! (Only 20 donations so far - C'mon guys!)
×
rtropp
-
Posts
936 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by rtropp
-
Hi, I am building the jig for coppering the hull of the Syren. In the kit there is a packet with brass nails. I am wondering if these can or should be used In making the stamp. If not, would 3/64 round brass rod be to large? I appreciate your thoughts. Richard
-
Mike, I was feeling the same way when I was buying the Byrnes saw. Then I received some advice that viewing the table saw videos on youtube would help. Just have to think it through in miniature. I researched youtube and did find a ton of stuff that was helpful in getting started. Between that and Jeff's write up on his HobbyMills website, I have started to rip some decent planks as well as began to use it for cross cuts. When I see a tool being used, like push stick, I just make one a lot smaller to fit the wood I have been using. Also, buying the wood pre milled so it is clean and square helps tremendously. I don't have the set up to mill large pieces down to model size so I buy from Jeff and others who make the billets in small thicknesses and buy those for my stock. Also, I know the quality of the wood from suppliers who specialize in miniature modeling eases the process. A video tutorial would be great, but at my age, who has time to wait Richard
-
Hi all, I finished my assignment in Houston and am back to being retired. I am glad to get back to my Syren. I had made some progress over the last few weeks and will post an update but for now I have a question. I am starting to build the coppering jig. I noticed there is a packet of tiny brass nails in the kit. Are these to use for the coppering jig? If not, I am not sure what width to use. I have some 3/64 round brass bar that I can use but am not sure if it too big. I appreciate any and all suggestions. Richard
-
I have not used CAD software and, as I get deeper into ship modeling, have begun to think about using CAD software. I would appreciate thoughts about whether I need 3D or if 2D would be enough to draft plans. What I would like to have the software do is enable me to print out components of the ship model. for instance, print out the series of frames from the draft of the hull. (or am I misunderstanding the whole concept?) Thanks, Richard
-
Another possible point about volume of responses.... It seems that most builders pretty much stick with what is supplied in the kit. Bashing, scratch, and those milling their own seem to be in the minority. Also, this is spring and this time of year has many members doing other chores or activities. As Jay has said, the survey is still new. It might help to place a brief posting on both the kit and scratch forums to let others know that the survey is available. (If that is allowed.) Richard
-
I voted yes on individual packing. I took this to mean that all of a specific size were packaged together, I.e., all 1/16" by 1/8" would be in one package and separate from other sizes. Richard
-
The most silent disk sander
rtropp replied to Mike Y's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have the Byrnes table saw and have to agree about the quality. I would only buy their versions of the heavier tools such as the table saw or thickness sander. Prior to learning about Byrnes, I bought some Proxxon tools and have been pretty satisfied with them especially as a beginner to learn on. One reason I chose the Proxxon sander over others was for the built in variable speed. Being new to the hobby, I find myself often using slow speeds when sanding, especially with parts that require minimal removal. That said, now that I have just a little more experience building ship models, if I lost my tools somehow, or won the lottery, I would replace any with the equivalent Byrnes tool. Between their solid construction, highly accurate accessories and their superb service, they are my tools of choice. QA, I followed your link for the vacuum and it looks good. Sadly, I could not find available for U.S. buyers and have not found any other powerful but quiet vacuums available here. Richard -
The most silent disk sander
rtropp replied to Mike Y's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have not found the proxxon to be very loud. What is loud is the shop vac I have attached to it. In fact, I have turned off the shop vac and left the sander running without noticing it was still turned on, especially at slower speeds. If I am working at night, my wife, in another room, does not hear the sander if I run it without the vacuum. Of course it may be different to your ears but Amazon does accept returns. Richard -
Question about shaping/sanding with files
rtropp replied to Jwvanost's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I found Grobet files on Amazon. They do not seem to be too expensive but I am not sure if they are the ones being discussed above. I have attached the link. Can anyone tell me if these look good? http://www.amazon.com/Grobet-American-Pattern-Piece-Cross/dp/B000IE5WKQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1SDADCCCS7P861YEY1Y0 Richard -
Thank you for the video. It will be very helpful Richard
-
Thanks for the posting. Richard
-
what is the ideal modelling table?
rtropp replied to AON's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Ulises, I like the configuration of the workstation from OCCRE. I am not enthusiastic about the tab structure they use of the parts. Also, OCCRE USA sells it for $102 US plus shipping. That gets expensive. I might consider copying the design but using better joints and probably solid wood to improve on it. I sure wish I had the CAD skills of some of our members so I could work out the component design. I might just try it old school with graph paper, pencil and a ruler. Richard -
As I look back at my last post above(1/8, 1/16, etc), it occurs to me that I am asking the wrong question. I am trying to figure the full(actual) size of hull and deck planks used for the Syren or ships of a similar period and country are? In researching, I find different sizes quoted and also most of the information offered is for European ships. I understood that the size of planking in European ships became smaller over time as a result of harvesting the forests but am not sure if American ships had the same problem, or even similar size trees. Thanks all, Richard
-
Thanks Chuck, If I can get all this to make sense it will be an interesting project... a real skill builder for me. Part of this will be trying to cut my own planks from sheets. I already have sheets of 1/8 and 1/6th wood but suspect I may have to get some different sizes for the 1:48. I am posting a new topic in Wood Discussions to get some idea of the full size planks that would have been used on the Syren in order to calculate the size required for the 1:48. Richard
-
I am considering a 1:48 version of Chuck P's Syren. For the bulwarks I will be using plywood. Online, I have found Birch Plywood described as "... Baltic Birch plywood is constructed entirely of solid birch plies of equal thickness. There are no softwood plies in the middle, and the plies are generally thinner and more numerous than those in normal plywood. The result is in an extremely stable, strong and attractive panel." Would this be a good ply for the framework? Is it overkill or less than recommended? The 1:48 is 1/3 larger than the 1:64. Does the framework need to be 1/3 thicker, or would another thickness be better? Thanks for the help. Richard
-
How does hide glue sand and stain? Richard
-
Thanks Geoff, I will check their site. Richard
-
Well, I have some time between assignments so I finally just ordered a copy. I just had to see what all the talk was about and at $40 it is less expensive than some of the books I bought. Seriously, I am at the very early stages of considering a scratch build and hoped this would help visualize some areas in which I am experiencing difficulty. Richard
-
Nigel, I appreciate your detailing the caulking. I used the same process but with a thin paper. (I have been experimenting with different papers to see how they looked.) Since I am gluing the planks and their paper caulking to a base, a piece of 1/64 birch ply, I figured that would be enough to overcome any bonding issues between the planks. Originally I thought tissue paper would be too thin but after seeing your photos I will have to try it. Also, I read the suggestion to clamp the planks together, then glue to the caulking paper. I was not sure how difficult it would then be to slit the paper without damaging the planks. I will have to try that also but with the tissue paper. Nice work, I will be following since one of my kits on the shelf is the Falmouth, also by EuroModel. Richard Richard
-
what is the ideal modelling table?
rtropp replied to AON's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Tim, I noticed in your picture that you store planks vertically in tubes. I wondered if there was any chance of warping the planks over time? Thanks, Richard -
I am looking for fitted type covers for my benchtop tools. These include a Byrnes Saw, Proxxon disk sander, Proxxon wood lathe and a Micro Mark miniature mill. Since I keep my tools in the sunroom I need to at least attempt to keep it somewhat neat I would appreciate any leads. Thanks, Richard
-
what is the ideal modelling table?
rtropp replied to AON's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Aon, Where did you find the $470 frame? I'd like to look at it. Thanks, Richard -
I was lucky enough to acquire both the Ajax and the Falmouth. I have a while before starting the next build as I am working on the Syren which is where I am learning the hobby. So I have two questions. Which model would you build first? If you could only build one of them, which would you choose? Richard
-
Hi Hans, I have a Falmouth on the shelf and will be watching your build with great interest. Richard
-
I am trying to determine what the width of the caulking on a 1/64 Syren would have to be in scale to simulate the actual width of the caulking on a full size Syren. The planks in the kit are 1/8" width. Richard
Our Emblem ®
