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Azzoun

NRG Member
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About Azzoun

  • Birthday 01/01/1979

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    NJ

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  1. Looks great Al, maybe you could also a create a scaled up version for the Model Shipways NewBedford Whale boat ??? Looking forward to seeing this available! Joshua
  2. Hey there Bryan, may i suggest using a pin vice and hand drilling it - you'll have a lot more control and accuracy. Good Luck, Joshua
  3. I ran across someone in OHIO selling this kit, left to him by his grandfather or father. Let me know if you want me to connect you two. Joshua
  4. If you're talking about the Model Shipways kit, the brass cannon is over scale - I've scratched my own but the photos look accurate from my research. I did make mine on sleds for my own artistic license. Joshua
  5. Hello to you from New Jersey!
  6. Great Topic - looking forward to the next update!
  7. Thank you for the complements. There are a few places where the fiberglass may have some raised sections which will be sanded through, some are unavoidable. The main purpose of the fiberglass is to give the hull durability and rigidity. The interior epoxy coating and all the subsequent layers of paste bondo and paint will keep the hull waterproof even if the fiberglass was sanded through in a few places. The objective is to keep it mostly intact where you can. Hope that helps. Joshua
  8. The next step for me in this build and I acknowledge, seems a bit out of order to drilling the hull but alas, I then coated the outer hull with a layer of fiberglass. The first attempt at this was a fail because didn’t adhere to the hull. I only coated the outside of the fiber mesh material with the Bondo resin and it mostly didn’t soak through to adhere to the hull. I was able to peal it away with minimal damage and start over. In the second attempt, I coated the hull, then applied the mesh, and coated again over top. Once cured, I obtained some Bondo two-part paste (Grey) and gave the whole hull a coat. Once that Bondo paste was cured and sanded, I used Bondo putty in a squeeze tube for the finer details (red). Eventually, this was the result. My next entry, I’ll discuss installing prop shafts and construction of the struts. Talk again soon, Joshua
  9. It's your perspective - I can show you photos later that they line up better than you think .
  10. The best part of being in a ship modeling club like PSMS is the help that is readily offered by all the members. In this case, the SubChaser kit was only designed for one propellor however that did not stop member, Fred Signor, from designing a jig which allowed him to align the outer propellor shafts. Fred is an expert machinist and he builds models with the level of care demanded from this profession. It was a huge benefit that he offered his completed work and experience to expedite our efforts in presenting our SubChaser models with greater historical accuracy. Attached below are a historical photo from the Subchaser.org, a snap of the process of drilling, and the finished effort. I've uploaded a short video of the tech session where we drilled the shaft holes and the fun we had doing it, the link immediately below! One has to wonder, how many ship modelers does it take to drill a propellor shaft? Enjoy, Joshua https://youtu.be/2hompjvZmZk
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