Jaager

If you do not contemplate manufacturing your own metal tools, then neither a mill nor a lathe will prove to be an economical expenditure. The parts of a hull that they will produce are relatively few. If you are going with a larger scale and mostly leaving the outer planking off, there may be more work for a mill. The probability is that both tools will mostly sit, looking for a job, if it is only wood that they will be used on. For fabricating metal tools, both are vital. A Byrnes table saw, disk sander, and a drum sanding table and an accurate drill press come far ahead of these two tools. Serious POF probably means that you will have to be your own sawmill. In which case - a big boy bandsaw and Byrnes thickness sander slip in ahead of them.

Bending the planks: wood is a bundle of cellulose tubes - cellulose is not soluble in water ( I am not sure it is soluble in anything that leaves it useful when precipitated out. ) The glue that holds the fibers in position is lignin - It is soluble (or affected) by pure hot liquid ammonia - the explosive industrial stuff, not the household cleaner -which only mars any wood exposed to it. Heat will loosen the lignin bond. Steam is a more effective way to transfer heat into the interior of a piece of wood. Dry heat, if too high, can degrade or char the wood. If you keep in mind what is going on at the cellular level, it is easier to evaluate the methods in use to bend the wood. Keep a thought on this factor: - that you fighting Nature. Given any chance, she will reverse your efforts. Spilling the planks is working with Nature, even though it is more expensive - in time and materials. I admit that I am in foreign territory with POB and two layer planking. However, it seems to me that the looks of the first layer is not important. It is probably counter productive or a waste of effort to go much deeper than medium grit for sanding it. If brass pins are are nipped close and treated to a warding file, there is nothing there to affect any sanding material. If the outer layer is to be bamboo trunneled, then the pins under it could affect any drilled holes. But, the basic POB method is not really compatible with this (unrealistic, but fun modeler's convention.).

Davis has a drawing to these. His name for them is hutchocks. If the scrap is fairly thick, there is room to insert the tip of a curved Kelly clamp to grip the pin after the scrap is split out. rotation usually breaks the glue bond. A buffer under the Kelly to protect planking, it makes for an effective prise. The chock is a good idea in any case, but since the planks are to be covered by a 2nd layer, the pins could be flush nipped and filed flush. There are museum models from France that have brass trunnels showing. There are also recent photos of model restoration where iron (steel) pins where used. After a hundred years or three the nails were oxidized and gone, leaving a black stain on the planking. So, anywhere there is any danger of a pin being not removable, it is wise to only use brass or copper pins.

There was a time when sails were made using a drafting medium that was a very fine cloth. The "starch" binder was extracted. I have never encountered this material. It could be this. If you consult a museum conservator, a save way to clean may be suggested. It sounds like it the material is hardy. I am imagining that repeated rinsing repeatedly with distilled water would remove water soluble concretions. The likely contributor to the yellowing is the condensed volatile products of tobacco combustion. This is really nasty stuff to remove. When done, it needs its own case.

A quality SS steel single edge razor blade does a far job of fine scraping. An attempt at producing a burr could be tried if you have a small carbide rod.

To add to this topic I am posting - with Guild permission as copy of the data provided to NRJ subscribers in 1979. It is from USN Standards 1900 oars.pdf

The length of oar per boat type and the number of them are in a table in W E May. It is from 1886 but should provide realistic data. I f you do not have a copy, list the various boat types and their lengths and I will extract the specific data.

The situation is complicated. As for tools, although enthusiasm often leads to wasted money as far as tools, even your father probably does not realize which tools he needs until he needs that specific job done. It may be wiser to get: A gift certificate to a special tool vendor: Lee Valey Japan Woodworker Lie-NielsenToolworks or A subject specific book: The 100-Gun Ship Victory (Anatomy of the Ship) by John McKay The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships Hardcover by C. Nepean Longridge But for something unexpected but better than what he is likely to know about: Japan Woodworker #156382 1/8" double bevel Blue Steel knife It also needs a piece of scrap leather and a fine honing compound like Flexcut Gold Compared to Xacto type #11 blades - both will do the job, but the knife it like having Lamborghini instead of a Ford or from StewMac Item Price Qty Total Japanese Super Fine-Cut Saw Item # 3617 $39.48 1 $39.48 Japanese Curved-edge Mini Saw Item # 3612 $28.30 1 $28.30 StewMac Ultimate Scraper, Mini Item # 0632 $28.07 1 $28.07 The curved-edge saw works a trick in crosscutting

Which just fortifies my compulsion that joints should be clamped as tightly as possible, but no crushing of wood fibers. Planing and scraping produces a clean surface - good for gluing. Sanding fills the pores, which is not all that good. I think it was an old Sci Am, or the short lived popular edition of Science article about either Stradivari or Guarneri that noted that their violins were probably scraped - the pores were free of wood flour under the clear finish. Take home was that scraping was a good thing to do as a final step.

Gregory, An otherwise excellent planking job is somewhat marred by a species choice that could be replaced by a better one. Walnut, especially Black Walnut (Juglans nigra) is a much preferred wood for most any full size project. But for scale work, I stay away from species that are open pore. If the surface is magnified a bit, it resembles corduroy. The linear grooves do not show on closed pore wood - like Hard Maple, AYC, Black Cherry, Yellow Poplar, any fruitwood. A dye can get many species having the Walnut shade. It is to fill the grooves - that sanding sealer was developed. It is a produce with no purpose if a closed pore species is used.

Allan, I have read that 220 grit is about the limit for the surface smoothness for components that will be joined using PVA. 400 grit may leave a surface with not enough tooth for the polymers to attach to efficiently. Like you, I progress - bulk 80 grit, dress the 80 scarring with 120-150 grit - 1-2 passes. Finish with 220 grit. On my old 11" drum, I had all three.

Roger, Jim uses a 1/3 HP motor for many of his machines that is heavy enough that tipping over is an unlikely problem. It is probably a good idea to set the distance between the table and the drum to remove a minimum layer of wood. The force from the hand feeding the stock should be fairly low. Most of it is resisting kickback. The push should not be enough to tip over a much lighter unit. The pull from the vac hose should be minimized. A sky hook with a bungee or it being a horse shoe, with down stream on the bench surface. The only problem I have experienced is a weak spring holding the depth dial. It only wants the open, so I fit a 2" C-clamp to it and have it butt the table. The media is easy to mount - not like me having to glue it to a Maple drum on my old NRJ plans homemade unit. Get spare screws. A plank fixed to the motor base floor with holes to hold the Allen wrenches and a contact lens type container with a lid to hold screws will keep everything to hand and keep bits from going away while doing a media change has been good for me.

I completely agree. The main problems are obtaining it in useful sizes and getting it dry before it checks or fungus gets to it. When I see it cut into chunks to flavor meat, it is to cry. If I had it to do over, I would make a effort to harvest as much Apple as I could. I would also actively seek: Hophornbeam and Washington Hawthorn. And explore Honey Locust.

The reduced plans in the book were drawn for Mystic. The originals are 1/2":1' Mystic sells plans. It may be worth the effort to check them out. I have tried to order plans for the clipper David Crockett which is in their inventory, but I cannot determine how many sheets are involved or if they are lines plans complete enough for my lofting method from their web site and I can get no information from them 1:1 email on what is needed to place an order. The data in Howe and Matthews pointed to David Crockett as being a significant vessel, but listed any plans as having been lost in a fire at the yard of the builder. It seemed fortunate that Mystic has them, but I guess it is an illusion.

to add to what Wayne has provided, the book has: 94 pages with two fold out plans plans by T.W.Dunn & R.C.Callyn original 1/2" to foot in the book ~ 3/32":1' Lines Profile and Sail plan There are almost as many drawings as pages - close up detail for many As for knees, iron or otherwise, this component seems to be altogether absent. I checked SM - I found no listing for this vessel there.

In my imagination Speed and cargo capacity would be the primary objectives. Guns are heavy, expensive, and are in the way until needed. They are a negative price point. I see no percentage in shooting it out with the RN or revenue service. Who would they need the guns for and what would be the minimum needed to discourage that opponent. Once these questions are answered, then the equipment should match.

A close reading of the information supplied by the link indicates that this is a genus whose wood would not be all that useful for scale model work. The required effort, I would spend on harvesting fruit wood. The various citrus species possibly available should yield much better stock. If the desert allows for, any of the street side ornamental Pear species produce worthwhile wood stock. If small parts such as blocks are a target, Briar and Boxwood and Hawthorn repay any effort spent on their harvest.

Roger, Jim sells custom made bushings that allow arbors larger than 1/2" to fit. With one of them, I can use the 1" key way slitting blades that I bought long ago. You just have to arrange the specs with him.

The negative reviews in regards to the Byrnes saw attachment are not a reflection on its function or how well it does it. For the most part, they are in response to questions about which attachments to buy. These questions generally come from relative beginners, who do not have bottomless sources of funds. They are seeking to economize and find shipment costs more favorable when everything is all in a single shipment. The need for an angle cut for components of a scratch ship model is not one that presents very often. It is therefore a "yacht" type situation. That is, if you do not know for sure that you will have a serious need for angled cut stock, then you probably will not use it enough to warrant the expense. Or, if you have to ask, then you probably do not need it. The ironic aspect is that it is pretty much the only accessory that is not in the "must have" category. The sliding table is too exquisite to bye pass, although self fabrication of a more simple version is easy enough. The oversize top is a specialist's part. I do wish there was a digital electronic depth of cut gauge; old eyes having the need. Also, super handy would be a version of the sliding table with a short enough right side that it would allow the fence to remain in place.

For the numbered bits, there are gauges sold under the General company name #61-80 and #60 - #1(?) . These are handy for to identify loose bits. As Roger writes - the circular holder - a Roger's style holder is a handy dispenser. A block of dense foam will hold any frequently used bits- just write the number next to the hole in the foam. As for when bits go bad - they pretty much tell you by breaking or bending. My most common use is for trunnels - these are limited to 1" - 2" in scale so for most common modeling scales this is in the #70 and higher (smaller) range. For dowels that join two pieces of wood -I usually go with #50 +/-.

The RN was kind of unique and particular as well as as being more difficult to replicate. The frames were sided in the lower hull (floors and futtock 1/crosspiece/half floor) being almost all wood. The sided dimensions of fut2 / fut 3/ etc. were diminished. The higher they were, the less thick their sided dimension was. It was a step function. The moulded dimension also decreased, but that was a smooth curve. Modeler's conventions help - uniform frame sided dimension until the LWL/main wale. Plank everything above this and the interior and the frame sides are hidden. Their actual thickness does not matter.

I am not disappointed by this purchase at all. It is more of an addition to my historical archives than for a direct model application. This provides necessary but not sufficient information to model a ship from the Navy of Louis XVI.

Plan 40 - La Surveillante 1778 12lb frigate Stern, aft profile above LWL akmost no useful information - essentially a place holder Plan 41 - L'Alcmene 1774 , L'Aimable 1776 8lb frigate Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 plus internal detail, channels quarter gallery, figurehead No stern These are RN dockyard plans of a capture done 1781 There is more detail. . Plan 42 - La Danae 1763 8lb frigate Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 plus internal detail, channels quarter gallery, figurehead, stern These are RN dockyard plans of a capture done 1779 There is more detail. . Plan 43 - La Gracieuse 1749 8lb frigate Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 Plan 44 - La Migonne 1767 8lb frigate Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 Plan 45 - La Pleyade 1754 8lb frigate Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1

Plan 30 - L'Amphion 1748 50 guns Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 Plan 31 - Le Fier 1745 50 guns Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 Plan 32 - La Charmante 1777 , La Junon 1777 12lb frigate Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 but zero bow data Plan 33 - La Concorde 1783 12lb frigate Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 plus stern, internal detail, channels Plan 34 - L'Engageante 1765 12lb frigate Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 Plan 35 - La Magicienne 1777 12lb frigate Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 plus figurehead and quarter gallery Plan 36 - La Nymphe 1780 12lb frigate Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 plus stern, internal detail, channels Plan 37 - L'Oiseau 1772 12lb frigate Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 plus stern, internal detail, channels These are RN dockyard plans of a capture done 1772 There is more detail. The interior works and the stern. Overall, the plans for this ship are much more complete. Plan 38 - La Renommee 1767 12lb frigate Waterlines, Profile Plans same data as Plan 1, but no Body Plan The hull could be built using current methods. I could not frame using just this information. Plan 39 - La Sultane 1765 12lb frigate Waterlines, Profile Plans same data as Plan 1, but no Body Plan Internal data, figurehead, quarter gallery The hull could be built using current methods. I could not frame using just this information.

Plan 20 - Le Caton 1770 64 guns Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 Plan 21 - Le Fantasque 1756 64 guns Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 Plan 22 - Le Jason 1777 64 guns Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 Plan 23 - Le Lion 1749 64 guns Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 Plan 24 - Le Prothee 1772 64 guns Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan These are RN dockyard plans of a capture done 1781 There is more detail. The interior work sand the stern. The Body Plan has the additional technical data of English plans from this time. Overall, the plans for this ship are much more complete. Plan 25 - Le Provence 1762 64 guns Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 Plan 26 - Le Brillant 1774 , Le Reflechi 1773 , Le Solitaire 1772 64 guns Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 Plan 27 - Le Triton 1745 64 guns Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 Plan 28 - Le Vaillant 1752 64 guns Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1 Plan 29 - Le Vengeur 1765 64 guns Body Plan, Waterlines, Profile Plan Same data as Plan 1. There is interior detail. The channels and deadeyes are present.