Jaager

Bruce, Here in the US, Holly is a special case when seasoning. The fresh log contains a lot of water and the internal communication is such that no part is isolated. There is a fungus that lives with the tree and quickly infects the wood when the tree is felled. It is termed Blue Mold. It leaves the wood with a lt blue or grey color. The other properties of the wood are unchanged, so it is usable. It is just bot snow white. It makes for realistic sun bleached deck when grey. It takes dye well. If you find that your stock is similarly infected, It is still a superb wood for model construction, it is just not the unrealistic white favored by some for decks. The tree is too small to be used for a full size deck and no other tree has wood that color even when stone sanded. The way to obtain the white wood is to fell the tree in Winter, billet it and get it into a kiln - essentially all on the same day.

I was not as clear as I thought about the heavy duty folding shelf brackets. I would use them to make the actual bench top wider and deeper- with the addition at the front. One of the 'rules" I learned when a grad student in a research lab is = you can never have too much bench space. The casters - in case being against the wall blocks the side bench top extension and in case the room needed to be temporarily repurposed. A Byrnes disk sander could find a home there. I find mine to be a significant improvement over the MM version I used previously. Something like a couple of Sterilite Drawer Organizers mounted up under the bench top on either side.

Additions that I would apply: drop down casters from Woodworkers Supply on the inside of eachleg. at least one power strip two "cranes" on the top of the back to site an LED shop light or two over the work area. an X brace on the two back legs folding shelf brackets on the side and perhaps the front Why build something if you can't over engineer it?

You should consider the following in your process of coloring the wood: a stain is a form of paint, sits on the surface - semitransparent - so some of the wood shows thru. a dye penetrates into the wood - not on the surface - it enhances the natural grain. two types of dye - alcohol and water - alcohol has shallow penetration - dries quickly - does not affect wood surface. water penetrates more deeply - takes longer to dry and the first exposure to water can swell surface fibers - needing a sanding or scraping before finish. a way to fix this is to first apply just water - with 10-20% PVA to swell the fibers that will swell and the glue to lock them. sand or scrape after 24 hrs and then apply the actual dye solution. no more swelling, so no need to abrade the dyed surface. If you use crap wood, using a stain is a good choice. If you use expensive or attractive wood, use a dye so as not to hide what you paid for.

There is a PDF and/or HTML from Hobby Mill (Jeff) covering the operation of the Byrnes saw and recommended blades . I would get a backup for each blade. The bevel cut option may not be cost effective. The cross cut sliding table is elegant but you could cobble something to do the same function from low cost materials. Do a search here for the saw accessories post. I regret not having the proper attribution here, but an excellent version of the cross cut table is shown - where the table is short enough on one side to allow the fence to stay. The deluxe fence is good to have as is the micro adjustment. I wonder if there would be a price break on shipping if several units were together - if more than one of your fellow countrymen did a group deal? Time has a way of having things available today, impossible to obtain in the future.

I looked up Teak on the Wood Database. A light colored wood that takes aniline wood dyes well and treat it with a light concentration of Walnut. Some of what is sold as Walnut in Europe looks similar to Teak, but is too open pore to scale down effectively. What we usually mean by Walnut in the US = Juglans nigra is much too dark.

I sort of recently viewed pictures of an old model - I think it was French - probably NRJ - anyway, it was plank fastened with iron nails. They were almost gone and the wood around the nails was stained. The wood may have been Oak, which has reactive compounds, but as the old saw goes = rust never sleeps.

You might consider using what you have and darkening it. Birchwood Casey Brass Black Metal Finish, 3-Ounce Amazon Do a search here to get more information.

yes, by size, I mean volume. Although, the difference in any one dimension is 1/2, A model of ...say.. HMS Victory at 1:48 . compared to a model of the same ship at 1:96 - it would take 8 models @ 1:96 to fill the volume occupied by the 1:48 copy.

Using 1:48 as a bench mark= scale Vol length 1 inch 1:48 1 1 0.0208 1:76 0.25 0.63 0.0131 1:96 0.125 0.5 0.0104 1:103 0.10 0.465 0.009 a model is a 3D while going from 1:48 to 1:96 means that a part is 1/2 the length, it is also 1/2 the width and 1/2 the depth so the size of the part is 1/8 @ 1:96 a part that is 1:76 would be twice the scale 1:100 is probably close enough not to be noted.

If your moulds are plywood, the bond can be improved by pre-treating the end grain sections. For Hard Maple and Black Cherry, I pre- treat with a 50-50 PVA - water to fill the pores. For plywood, I would go up to 4 - 1 or 5-1 PVA - water as the openings are much larger. Just avoid any glue buildup on the surface. 24-48 hrs setup time.

When the bonding surfaces are aligned correctly, PVA forms a bond that is stronger than the wood fibers. PVA comes in many flavors, the two major divisions are white and yellow. I do not know the strength differences - if any. For your purpose, the translucent may not have been as good a choice of PVA as you could have made. That said, the weakest of wood to wood bonds is when end grain is involved. It is possible that the edge of the plywood mould had a lot of end grain as the bonding surface. Pine or Fir plywood would be a weak surface with large pores. The strength of a PVA bond is proportional to clamping pressure. The closer the two surfaces are, the stronger the bond. The upper limit is when the pressure deforms the outer surface of the wood being clamped. PVA forms long interlinking chains as it cures. In 24 hrs, the bulk of the chemical reaction has occurred. Rather than convicting the adhesive, examine the surfaces- how close were they? how much of the mould surface was actually in the same plane with the plank? Beveling is a skill. In POB, it is difficult to apply enough pressure. Some POB practitioners "fatten" the space between the moulds with additional wood to supply more surface area and allow for one layer of planking to be sufficient. Additional wood pieces can be cut and fitted to the inside after the plank has been fitted, but since no real force can be applied, the bond will not be strong.

The Firefox problem is a universal problem on my system. It is not just your site, it is with any link that is involved with sending an email message from that linked page. It makes most websites something of a mine field.

Well that was interesting! When I hit the buy link for the English edition, in Firefox - I got the usual loop result I get from a contact link - millions of tabs I have to close and then open and hope I live long enough to delete all the tabs. In Chrome, the buy now link does nothing.

More 110V outlets than you think you will need - on every wall - most above benchtop level - some switched. One 220V outlet placed where you have about 6 sq ft of open floor space. Dust collection as a primary design factor - with the ability to have the vac unit in a separate space - for sound separation - your ears will thank you. But easy access to deal with the collected material.

Drafting gun ports must be boring, subject to lapses in precision, and more than a few plans have some of them as inconsistent in their pattern. When lofting, I pick a port at midship and develop a gauge/jig for the the distance of the sill and lentil from the underside of deck planking/top of deck beams. I add the thickness of the sill and lentil timbers to size the opening. I use this gauge for the rest of the ports, rather than using the profile to determine gun port height,. Transferring the data to a card and installing the beams before finishing the ports gets the slope of the sill parallel to the deck for each.

Since this is not a contest, it may be more helpful to seek excellence instead of comparisons The NRJ reprinted a log series LE COMTE: PRAKTIKALE ZEEVAARTKUNDE PT. 1 EDSON,MERRITT NAUTICAL RESEARCH JOURNAL 1974 20 170-182 MASTING RIGGING 19TH DUTCH It is at least 19 parts long The CD is for sale here, Underhill provides a lot of detail for the hybrid steel and fiber masted and rigged ships SAILING SHIP RIGS AND RIGGING 1938 UNDERHILL,HAROLD A BROWN,SON & FERGISON 1969 MASTING AND RIGGING MASTING AND RIGGING THE CLIPPER SHIP AND OCEAN CARRIER 1946 UNDERHILL,HAROLD A BROWN, SON & FERGISON 1969 MASTING AND RIGGING PLANK ON FRAME MODELS VOL.1 1958 UNDERHILL,HAROLD A BROWN, SON & FERGISON 1971 SHIP MODELING PLANK ON FRAME MODELS VOL.2 1958 UNDERHILL,HAROLD A BROWN, SON & FERGISON 1971 SHIP MODELING

Wood Craft has Baltic Birch plywood in a variety of sizes and thicknesses. Hobby locations have aircraft plywood, but the really thin stock is kinda the opposite of what you need as planking support. there is the option of getting 1/16" or 1/8" Hard Maple or Basswood, etc- cutting 3 copies of each mold/ bulkhead - one with the grain 90 degrees rotated - and glue up the layers as your own homemade plywood. All that is needed is a strong press.

A digital micrometer to measure the thickness would help with your selections and if you enter the dark side (scratch) will be a necessary tool. WoodCraft has Basswood, Hard Maple, and Black Cherry in thin stock as well as a variety of veneer choices. An alternate, since the stock is so thin, use paper (cardboard) instead. The wood pattern can be painted - probably lots of on-line how to sites. Or you can find an appropriate wood texture on a 3D CG site and use your printer to turn the paper into "wood". If you search the site for the discussions on knife blades - Xacto vs surgical vs a real violin makers knife - the stock is so thin cutting rather than sawing appears to be what would be the way to free the planks from the board stock.

The planking run on this kit looks good.

One of the resent articles in SIS was a Viking. The planking layout was just wrong. The sheer plank did not follow the sheer. I hope the kit here is not the one from that series.

A basic overview = wood is a series of cellulose tubes that are held together by glue: lignin. The lignin bond can be weakened by heat and pure ammonia. Water does not dissolve either cellulose or lignin. What water does is greatly increase heat transfer. Hot water or steam can soften the lignin bond - allow adjustment and reset when back to RT. Any ammonia that is in water, does nothing that water alone will not do, is smelly, and messes up the surface of the wood. If the wood is a rectangle in cross section, bending should be limited to up/down thru the thin plane. Curving thru the thick dimension tends to break the wood. Spilling from a wider plank is the better option. I have not seen the 50% PVA before. I suspect that the wood provided with the kit is fragile and prone to splitting and fiber separation. The PVA would mitigate some that when it dried. It will not help with the actual bending. At the end and with more experience, you may wish that you had replaced the wood provided with a supply from a 3rd source. Wood of a species with no obvious pores, that bends well, and use wider planks, that allow spilling for lateral bends. Spilling is a migration from spoiling - it means that the "S" shape or "C" shape curve is cut out of a wider board, and a lot of the wood goes as waste ie. is spoiled.

Joe, repeat using a blade with fewer teeth. If that blade also flexes away from the fence, try it with a thicker blade. I would rescue the tapered plank using a thickness sander. Using double sided tape, I would fix it to the ege of a 3/16 block and run it thru.

My take on the progression is: Log - board == full size bandsaw ( a full size tablesaw can do some of it, but it is limited in stock thickness and dealing with other than flat surfaces. and is hazardous ) == thickness sander == Byrnes saw. I see the sander as producing stock for the Byrnes saw, not something to process Byrnes saw output. It can certainly do that, but using only the saw is more cost effective - even if the loss to kerf is greater. As others here have said - there are books on safe use of a full size tablesaw that apply to the Byrnes saw. As for shop size bandsawa, I got two take home lessons 1) you will not be happy with an economy model. 2) a bimetal or carbide blade is the only way to go.

There is one part of this that I suspect may cause a problem. White pet does not evaporate, at least not in the temperature range where we can exist. That means that the mixture will remain semi fluid. On a hot summer day - could it flow out of a vertical surface? What is the result of using PVA instead of white pet? Is it compatible with the existing gemisch?