Jaager

You might consider using what you have and darkening it. Birchwood Casey Brass Black Metal Finish, 3-Ounce Amazon Do a search here to get more information.

yes, by size, I mean volume. Although, the difference in any one dimension is 1/2, A model of ...say.. HMS Victory at 1:48 . compared to a model of the same ship at 1:96 - it would take 8 models @ 1:96 to fill the volume occupied by the 1:48 copy.

Using 1:48 as a bench mark= scale Vol length 1 inch 1:48 1 1 0.0208 1:76 0.25 0.63 0.0131 1:96 0.125 0.5 0.0104 1:103 0.10 0.465 0.009 a model is a 3D while going from 1:48 to 1:96 means that a part is 1/2 the length, it is also 1/2 the width and 1/2 the depth so the size of the part is 1/8 @ 1:96 a part that is 1:76 would be twice the scale 1:100 is probably close enough not to be noted.

If your moulds are plywood, the bond can be improved by pre-treating the end grain sections. For Hard Maple and Black Cherry, I pre- treat with a 50-50 PVA - water to fill the pores. For plywood, I would go up to 4 - 1 or 5-1 PVA - water as the openings are much larger. Just avoid any glue buildup on the surface. 24-48 hrs setup time.

When the bonding surfaces are aligned correctly, PVA forms a bond that is stronger than the wood fibers. PVA comes in many flavors, the two major divisions are white and yellow. I do not know the strength differences - if any. For your purpose, the translucent may not have been as good a choice of PVA as you could have made. That said, the weakest of wood to wood bonds is when end grain is involved. It is possible that the edge of the plywood mould had a lot of end grain as the bonding surface. Pine or Fir plywood would be a weak surface with large pores. The strength of a PVA bond is proportional to clamping pressure. The closer the two surfaces are, the stronger the bond. The upper limit is when the pressure deforms the outer surface of the wood being clamped. PVA forms long interlinking chains as it cures. In 24 hrs, the bulk of the chemical reaction has occurred. Rather than convicting the adhesive, examine the surfaces- how close were they? how much of the mould surface was actually in the same plane with the plank? Beveling is a skill. In POB, it is difficult to apply enough pressure. Some POB practitioners "fatten" the space between the moulds with additional wood to supply more surface area and allow for one layer of planking to be sufficient. Additional wood pieces can be cut and fitted to the inside after the plank has been fitted, but since no real force can be applied, the bond will not be strong.

The Firefox problem is a universal problem on my system. It is not just your site, it is with any link that is involved with sending an email message from that linked page. It makes most websites something of a mine field.

Well that was interesting! When I hit the buy link for the English edition, in Firefox - I got the usual loop result I get from a contact link - millions of tabs I have to close and then open and hope I live long enough to delete all the tabs. In Chrome, the buy now link does nothing.

More 110V outlets than you think you will need - on every wall - most above benchtop level - some switched. One 220V outlet placed where you have about 6 sq ft of open floor space. Dust collection as a primary design factor - with the ability to have the vac unit in a separate space - for sound separation - your ears will thank you. But easy access to deal with the collected material.

Drafting gun ports must be boring, subject to lapses in precision, and more than a few plans have some of them as inconsistent in their pattern. When lofting, I pick a port at midship and develop a gauge/jig for the the distance of the sill and lentil from the underside of deck planking/top of deck beams. I add the thickness of the sill and lentil timbers to size the opening. I use this gauge for the rest of the ports, rather than using the profile to determine gun port height,. Transferring the data to a card and installing the beams before finishing the ports gets the slope of the sill parallel to the deck for each.

Since this is not a contest, it may be more helpful to seek excellence instead of comparisons The NRJ reprinted a log series LE COMTE: PRAKTIKALE ZEEVAARTKUNDE PT. 1 EDSON,MERRITT NAUTICAL RESEARCH JOURNAL 1974 20 170-182 MASTING RIGGING 19TH DUTCH It is at least 19 parts long The CD is for sale here, Underhill provides a lot of detail for the hybrid steel and fiber masted and rigged ships SAILING SHIP RIGS AND RIGGING 1938 UNDERHILL,HAROLD A BROWN,SON & FERGISON 1969 MASTING AND RIGGING MASTING AND RIGGING THE CLIPPER SHIP AND OCEAN CARRIER 1946 UNDERHILL,HAROLD A BROWN, SON & FERGISON 1969 MASTING AND RIGGING PLANK ON FRAME MODELS VOL.1 1958 UNDERHILL,HAROLD A BROWN, SON & FERGISON 1971 SHIP MODELING PLANK ON FRAME MODELS VOL.2 1958 UNDERHILL,HAROLD A BROWN, SON & FERGISON 1971 SHIP MODELING

Wood Craft has Baltic Birch plywood in a variety of sizes and thicknesses. Hobby locations have aircraft plywood, but the really thin stock is kinda the opposite of what you need as planking support. there is the option of getting 1/16" or 1/8" Hard Maple or Basswood, etc- cutting 3 copies of each mold/ bulkhead - one with the grain 90 degrees rotated - and glue up the layers as your own homemade plywood. All that is needed is a strong press.

A digital micrometer to measure the thickness would help with your selections and if you enter the dark side (scratch) will be a necessary tool. WoodCraft has Basswood, Hard Maple, and Black Cherry in thin stock as well as a variety of veneer choices. An alternate, since the stock is so thin, use paper (cardboard) instead. The wood pattern can be painted - probably lots of on-line how to sites. Or you can find an appropriate wood texture on a 3D CG site and use your printer to turn the paper into "wood". If you search the site for the discussions on knife blades - Xacto vs surgical vs a real violin makers knife - the stock is so thin cutting rather than sawing appears to be what would be the way to free the planks from the board stock.

The planking run on this kit looks good.

One of the resent articles in SIS was a Viking. The planking layout was just wrong. The sheer plank did not follow the sheer. I hope the kit here is not the one from that series.

A basic overview = wood is a series of cellulose tubes that are held together by glue: lignin. The lignin bond can be weakened by heat and pure ammonia. Water does not dissolve either cellulose or lignin. What water does is greatly increase heat transfer. Hot water or steam can soften the lignin bond - allow adjustment and reset when back to RT. Any ammonia that is in water, does nothing that water alone will not do, is smelly, and messes up the surface of the wood. If the wood is a rectangle in cross section, bending should be limited to up/down thru the thin plane. Curving thru the thick dimension tends to break the wood. Spilling from a wider plank is the better option. I have not seen the 50% PVA before. I suspect that the wood provided with the kit is fragile and prone to splitting and fiber separation. The PVA would mitigate some that when it dried. It will not help with the actual bending. At the end and with more experience, you may wish that you had replaced the wood provided with a supply from a 3rd source. Wood of a species with no obvious pores, that bends well, and use wider planks, that allow spilling for lateral bends. Spilling is a migration from spoiling - it means that the "S" shape or "C" shape curve is cut out of a wider board, and a lot of the wood goes as waste ie. is spoiled.

Joe, repeat using a blade with fewer teeth. If that blade also flexes away from the fence, try it with a thicker blade. I would rescue the tapered plank using a thickness sander. Using double sided tape, I would fix it to the ege of a 3/16 block and run it thru.

My take on the progression is: Log - board == full size bandsaw ( a full size tablesaw can do some of it, but it is limited in stock thickness and dealing with other than flat surfaces. and is hazardous ) == thickness sander == Byrnes saw. I see the sander as producing stock for the Byrnes saw, not something to process Byrnes saw output. It can certainly do that, but using only the saw is more cost effective - even if the loss to kerf is greater. As others here have said - there are books on safe use of a full size tablesaw that apply to the Byrnes saw. As for shop size bandsawa, I got two take home lessons 1) you will not be happy with an economy model. 2) a bimetal or carbide blade is the only way to go.

There is one part of this that I suspect may cause a problem. White pet does not evaporate, at least not in the temperature range where we can exist. That means that the mixture will remain semi fluid. On a hot summer day - could it flow out of a vertical surface? What is the result of using PVA instead of white pet? Is it compatible with the existing gemisch?

I can and have processed my own stock from logs. For species that are not obtainable in any other way, it is just what has to be done. But, Basswood is a species that is available commercially. For me, the work involved in getting a green log into seasoned and usable stock makes it not worth the effort for a species that I can get as seasoned 8x4 or 4x4 boards from a lumber yard -unless the log is free to begin with and that depends on the species. The suggestions to shop the logs to a commercial yard is a good way to go.

Since Ron has anticipated what I was referring to, I will go ahead and expand Plans and computers A primary factor is to avoid having the computer or print program perform any "helpful" background adjustments and to counter any artifacts introduced by the process. The product should be set up to print any plans precisely as intended. Necessary tools = a printer scanner and a drawing program that can scale, use multiple layers, and process large files. The bench mark program is PhotoShop and for a one off plan, the cloud rental may be cost effective. Expensive alternatives are Corel Draw and Corel Painter. Less expensive is PaintShop Pro. Gimp is free. A document or canvas size should be a base for any program. It should be as large as can be had without the printer program needing to "adjust" it to match the paper size. I use 8.5 x 11 = 2197 x 1701 pixels and 8.5 x 14 = 2796 x 1701 pixels.. For Windows Photo Viewer, be sure to uncheck "fit picture to frame". It is a given that a scanner will distort its product. Fortunately, this is a constant for any machine. What the distortion is must be determined and corrected as the first step in processing a plan in the draw program. The X Y distortion may be uniform or X may be different from Y. I did this usng a transparent metric ruler. Scan it X and Y. Open the scans in the draw program - the two layers can be both visible and saved as a file. I prefer .PNG - it is a lossless format and will save an alpha. A smaller file can be had using .JPG if you are willing to deal with the save fidelity questions. Print the ruler scan and compare to the original. Metric is easy to use to to determine the % difference. In the draw program, adjust a copy of the scan by the % determined - save - print - compare. Repeat until you get identity. Carve the % scale adjustment in stone and adjust any scan taken into the draw program by this factor as a first step - always. Scan your keel - or better for getting it flat - the copy on the plans if there is one. Start with a new canvas in landscape orientation. open the keel scan as a new layer - probably will need more than one scan unless the model is a miniature. Adjust - Lock these layers. On a new layer - type an lower case letter "o" using Ariel Black - print size 4. On a new layer - type an lower case letter "o" using Ariel Black - print size 7. Line up the two layers with holes centered. Combine the two layers. This is a pin locator. Position pin locators along the keel - top and bottom and in places where a hole will not matter. Combine the pin layers with a copy of the keel layer(s). Duplicate and flip vertical. Print out these plans. The paper is a bit flimsy - I coat them with a liberal layer of brushing lacquer - By using pins and the locators, the mirror images can be aligned on either side of the keel. I use Best Test rubber cement - a serious coat on both mating surfaces.

Do you have areas of the keel that will be cut away or not seen on the finished model? Are these areas widely spaced and cover the ends of the keel?

It is not so much exotic as species that come from trees that do not lend themselves to high volume operations Most "exotic" species are prized because they have characteristics that we try to avoid - prominent and interesting grain. In general softwood species do not play nice for us. The cachet species are Boxwood ( the real Buxus is all but impossible to source - it has been replaced by a S.A. species = Castelo that is treated as though it were the same ) Swiss Pear, Ebony ) The US domestic species that work well are Hard Maple, Black Cherry, Holly, Yellow Poplar, Beech, most any fruit wood - Apple being my favorite - but these are self harvested. If you are US based and can mill your own, you could replace the kit material with Hard Maple and Black Cherry milled to the same thickness. For bending, Holly if the others resist too much.

Plastic is a polymer that is formed by catalytic reaction and continues after production - at a slower rate. Oxygen, UV light, heat can increase the polymerization reaction -making it brittle and stiff and prone to turn to powder. Wood is a polymer make by specialized cells. They are no longer active while the wood is still a tree. There are trees that are hundreds if not thousands of years old, What does wood in is fungus and insects, not UV or oxygen. Swelling and shrinking in response to changes in humidity can produce splits. If brittle wood is a problem, the cause is probably a result of the wood species - not time. The appropriate wood species to use are usually more expensive and do not come in truck load quantities. Some boutique kit makers use the preferred wood species. Mass market kit assemblers often use wood species that a scratch modeler would never choose. You asking the question, this probably means that you may be happier if you second source a wood supply - after some research here as to which species would work better for you.

To help with your search, the lines and spar and sail plans for Young America are a part of the folio of plans done by William H. Webb. If a library close to where your ancestor lived had the folio or he lived close enough to the Webb Institute, that could explain where he got the plans. The deck details would have to come from another source. The ship is 235 feet deck length or 4.9 feet long @ 1:48 just for the hull before the spars were added. I doubt that any kit manufacturer would have been mad enough to produce a product of this size. Most seem to have some idealized mantel piece length and adjust their model's scale to fit that length. A serious amount of lumber would have been needed to produce the hull. You have both a gem and something of a white elephant. It also represents and serious expenditure of both time and skill on the part of your forebearer.

Sounds like it is museum scale -1/4":1'. You sorta haveta live in a mansion to display a model of a ship that was that large at that scale. Furring strips will not be overkill. If you use plywood instead of 1/8" hardboard or pegboard, it gets heavy . As it is, adding some sort of wheels to the base would make things easier for you. With pegboard, it can double as a rolling tool holder.