Jaager

After checking this out on Amazon, there is a 30 sec auto-off option- to save battery. Your last adventure with the 360 setting the short time was likely due to your activating the saver function.

Use your 3 in 1 printer scanner. Scan the area, take the file into a program like GIMP or Paintshop Pro - the high end versions are Photoshop or Painter - adjust for scanner distortion ( determined by scanning a clear meter ruler - taking it into into the photo program and printing it out - measure the print against the ruler, calculate the % difference - adjust the scan by that amount of "scale" - print that out - remeasure- repeat adjusting until your get a % that = identity of the printout with the original ruler - remember that % adjustment - and use it for all scans on your system. A larger area can be had if you use 8 x 14 paper. In the photo program, open the scan as a layer in a pre saved canvas. I print out the saved file using Windows Photo Viewer - I have to make sure that program does not "adjust" to a boarder - that it only prints the file as it is. I prefer PNG to JPG . My standard canvas sizes - so that no auto adjustments are done by a printer program are 8.5 x 11 = 2197 x 1701 pixels and 8.5 x 14 = 2796 x 1701 pixels

Wood contains a glue-like lignin - heat loosens its bonds for bending - the function of the water is to allow efficient heat transfer. No part of the wood is soluble in water. The prolonged soaking will only rehydrate the wood - undoing 50 years of seasoning and encouraging any fungus present. Lignin is affected by anhydrous ammonia - an explosive and dangerous industrial chemical. Household ammonia is 5-10% - too dilute to make it anything other than smelly water as far as wood bending. What plane are you bending? Down on the frames = you are stuck with heat bending. Up/down in the plane of the planking = spilling - not bending. Now that I think about it- while not a pleasant prospect, if your stock is thick enough - you could carve both curves.

The fat from the beef is tallow. Allergic to beef, I discovered that some Mickey D add it to the vegetable oil to flavor FF. Never would have had a reason to know about it otherwise. I seem to recall from a school trip to Colonial Williamsburg it was used for candles, but did not bother to know what it was. Since you are likely to be inside your home and not a dirt floor shed, you may wish to forego the animal fat and try Mineral Oil from your pharmacy. The spinning may spray and a rancid streak on the wall behind your bench or ceiling above may not be easily seen but still provide an unpleasant odor. Sears used to sell quarts of light machine oil, can't find it now, so I use MO instead.

The angle between each line in the fan is identical. The smaller the angle - the easier it is to get a position on it. The function is the find equal segment subdivisions for a selected distance. I think that would be easier to set a point on the midline at the top of a page and draw a line from it to a point on a ruler at the bottom every x mm apart. T use it, it is better to remeasure the gap after each course of planking. If your gap is for 8 planks, rather than doing all 8 at the start, measure one, lay it, measure the gap for 7 lay it, measure for 6 -lay it .... An alternative is to use a proportional divider and pick off the points from it. I think the fan is both easier and more accurate as well as being a lot less expensive. The necessity for stealers depends on the hull. There is a minimum width for hull planks. I think it is Davis that provided the 5-4-3 Planking Rule = width 5 midship 4 bow 3 stern This being a ratio of the actual plank widths. The slope of the midship bend as well as the size of the ship will determine how wide a plank can be before it rocks like a teeter totter rather than laying on the frame. If the width at the ends is too narrow = a stealer is needed.

From the ASA 1885 Tree nails outside planking plank thickness treenail inches 1 7/8 2.5 1 3-3.5 1.125 4-4.5 1.25 5-5.5 1.375 6- < 1.5 I 'll leave it to you to divide by 48 to get model scale Since the physics did not change and at scale - any difference in scantlings over the 200 years hard to notice this should be ballpark enough. The largest is #68 gauge at scale - not easy to draw and easy to break.

Mark, You might could consider using linen thread as is. I bought the following from Colophon Book Arts Supply : Londonderry linen thread dia dia 1/48 circ 1/48 dia 1/60 circ 1/60 100/3 0.009 0.42 1.3 0.53 1.6 80/3 0.01 0.48 1.5 0.48 1.9 50/3 0.012 0.6 1.9 0.75 2.3 The price is < $3.00 and delivery was fast. Since it is already 3 strands laid you can use it straight up. As for holding the blocks I bought some Dritz Quilting Crystal Glass Head Pins, that are 1 3/4" long and are # 76 wire gauge that may not be too large a hole for the rope and if you nip off the bead and mount it on a piece of wood - there is a lot of up/down play before a block would come off the top The bead could be nipped after even. I don't know how Londonderry does their 100/3 - I have trouble laying up 62/1 yarn - it breaks before I can get long lengths

A blob of Silly Putty or modelers clay - on a stick - or not - to hold or pick up small stuff?

First, an editorial comment on Net inquiry for the "Best" of anything. I don't know about best, since the best of all poor choices is still poor. I think "excellent" and "quality" would be better goals. As for a spindle sander, I made my own. It is not the less expensive option since the motor came dear, but to get the features I wanted, it was required. There is no oscillation - but I see no advantage to that action. The zero bend is the only one where the table can be used for a finished shape - the bevels require a tilt of the work piece and that angle changes continuously. A drum moving up/down would make that more difficult to control. Dayton 1/3 HP, 1700 rpm - powerful enough and the right speed for sanding. ball bearing - there is a lot of lateral force on the shaft doing this. closed case internal cooling fan - a lot of wood dust produced - but I have mitigated that with a 1/8" hard board barrier right above the motor. Reversible motor - the upper ends of frames respond better to pulling sanding than pushing - figuring out the wiring for the switch was interesting. The maintained reversible drum switch was not cheap either. 1/2" shaft -- I prefer sleeveless drums - the Norton sheets 9 x 11 are not expensive and are easy to get. Compressible sleeve drums sometimes get out of round. The drums are generally 3" high in a variety of diameters - After I friction melted the rubber substrate on the smallest one - the steel base makes that one ~ 3/8" dia. The widest diameter is 3", but that one also has 4 1/2" high ( which was a waste - out of round- and not different enough from 3" ) and a 6" high version ( great - especially for the frames of the 1:60 first rate I am working on. With a bare 1/2" shaft, Other tools can be mounted. Another part of the design - the base mounting the motor and holding the table is open on the front and back has large rubber stoppers for feet - both for vibration mitigation and for air flow since I cut a hole about the diameter of the motor in the bottom piece. If you work for a while, there is heat with the motor.

I have tried to resist but can not. Looking at your "disaster" = the grain looks too coarse for its duty. A fine straight grain species. Hard and dense probably plays nicer with a lathe tool. The theory that I am following - use a froe ( or something that does that function) to split out stock that is straight grain. Dowels may ot may not have straight grain. Probably not in most.

As I understand itL stain; essentially a paint-like product that is a surface based material. It is colored to match a species of wood, but it partially masks the grain of the wood it is used on. On raw wood, I think the system chosen is a preference with no objective factors favoring any one of them. dye, penetrates the wood, enhances the grain, does not limit the choice of finish. Two types in general - alcohol base - less penetration, no effect on the wood, drys quickly. water base- deeper penetration, longer drying time, first application usually raises the grain and requires treatment = sanding or use of a scraper. Pre-treatment with dilute PVA in water and sanding before dye usually negates the grain problem. If you have quality wood- consider using a dye, If the wood is not beautiful - a stain can fix that.

Using published dimensions and checking plans can be tricky. What was meant by length changed constantly over time. Was it length of keel? Was length of keel "touch"? (17th C.) Was length on gun deck (or main deck)? (18th C.) Was it length between perpendiculars? And where exactly are the perpendiculars placed? There was a change in the mid 19th C. because I have Chapelle plans with notations about "old" measurements and two locations at the bow. In your place, I would drop back 10 and punt on the MS plans. I would start with the plans the John Shedd and Co. probably used to develop theirs. Howard Chapelle has plans for Phantom in HASS and thus 1/4" scale lines are available from The Smithsonian. I did not check, but usually these are builders plans and are inside the planking. Some of The Smithsonian plans are off absolute scale by ~1% or so - and if you use your 3 in 1 to copy and a drawing/paint program to scale - your scanner will not give your an accurate copy. Mind requires scans to be scaled up 102.5% Given your proposed method - if you intend to fully copper the bottom, and do not wish to plank under it first, the planking thickness can be added to the lines up to the copper line -if you were doing POF or POB or cross sectional (sliced bread) bread and butter. For waterline bread and butter or solid hull, I do not think I would attempt the complex geometry that adding the planking thickness would involve and would just plank it.

To clarify your data, when I saw that you were saying that the scale was 1:35 - I thought "this will be one heck of a plaque- the Great Republic hull being 9.5 feet long." So, playing with your numbers - I am guessing that you are at 1" : 35' or 1:420 for scale? Half hulls are not a frequent subject, but they are certainly a valid subject. The difference in hull lengths - being displayed in actual 3D - is educational and adds perspective to the contemporary written comments.

First, now (2/16/18) on Ebay linen yarn in retail quantity Nm 26/1 = 40 Lea 3 stand layup result at 1:48 = dia. between 0.75-0.9 in. circ. between 2.4-2.8 in. ( I have measured 30/1 and 45/1 yarn) Nm 21/1 = 35 Lea The following are available in wholesale quantities: from Etsy seller StoffGarnConneXion in Schwalmtal, Germany The weight per unit is ~ 1 kg cone shipping to US alone is ~$50 / unit closest result @ 1:48 by my measurement Nm Lea A B C dia. circ. spool 36* 60 62/1 3 0.012 0.6 1.9 $58 30* 50 45/1 3 0.016 0.75 2.4 $75 24* 40 $32 20* 33 30/1 3 0.019 0.9 2.8 $52 12* 20 14/1 3 0.027 1.3 4 $48 10* 17 16/1 3 0.04 1.9 6 $43 15/2 25/2 20/2 3 0.033 1.6 5 $92 A yarn size in lea B # strands turned C actual diameter as measured as rotations per inch on a dowel

The effect is subtle, but you may wish to investigate. The decks followed the curve of the sheer - but often not as extreme. The guns would not be horizontal, so it makes sense that the sill would be in plane with the gun traverse and not the horizon. The door ways into the quarter galleries look to be horizontal.

With the ships that I have lofted, your port gauge would only work for the midship port. The sills that I have worked with follow the angle of the deck. The sides stay vertical but the aft ports are higher on the after side and the fore ports are higher on the for side. For my vessels the gauge would need to be a parallelogram and not an all right angle rectangle.

My first thought: Compared to the ships that they worked for, the pilot craft seem like large boats themselves. The pilot craft were both fast and maneuverable. Some were in the 70-80 ft range in size. The 1st launch of USS Vincennes was 35 ft. Not the same size but not all that different either. Rather than risk the hazard of two transfers, my thought is that the pilot vessel itself was able to get close enough for direct transfer of the pilot. This from the description of USS Sea Gull and USS Flying Fish in the U.S. Ex. Ex. squadron given by N. Philbrick in SEA OF GLORY. Then I did some research: The topic is addressed in Vol. 1 of Tom Cunliffe's PILOTS. Following its lead - I looked on the NRJ CD for volumes 1-40, in Vol. 39.3 2 articles, one by Eric Ronnberg Jr. and one by Jeff Megerdichian cover subject with information and plans to allow scratch build of a pilot canoe/yawl that is likely as close as can be had.

I read that one way of holystoning a deck was : the stone was attached to 4 ropes and 4 crewmen moved it back and forth over the deck while spreading sand around it. This would essentially be sanding the deck. Now - I have sanded a lot of species of wood. All it did was to return the wood surface to its native color. Apart from Holy, no species turned white. Actual Holy would not be a realistic choice for a deck on a ship. The holystoning would remove a sun bleached/oxidized grey and would help remove splinters which would be bad for the bare feet of the crewmen, as well as any tar stains from foot trafic - but how did this change the color of Pine or Fir or Oak to white?

My guess is that some the 17th - 18th c English model makers used Holly for decks and/or someone closer to our time who was influential did and it got the status it has.

Michael, A quick check on the Net for your area includes: C.R. Muterspaw Lumber Xenia OH " sells the finest domestic, quartersawn, figured, and exotic hardwoods ... Our specialty is figured wood, including such species as Tiger Maple, Curly Hard Maple, Birdseye Maple, and Curly Cherry " Now, this is exactly the opposite of what interests me, but perhaps they have some plain straight grain boring stock too, maybe a deal can be had? Also, while I prefer 2" length stock, anything from 6" on up is worth having, so end cuttings and short stock may be discounted. What they offer that would interest me + Birch, Cherry, Hard Maple, Poplar There is Western Ohio Hardwoods in Dayton, but I found no Web presence, so what they are and what they have = ? You can also check for local saw mills - rough and green lumber often, but with a good band saw and proper storage - you can save there. I get more wood from the rough cut - not finish planed stock.

The "one plank at a time" = one method of planking is to fit the wales fit the garboard strake. If the remaining space is large, site a batten or two to get a smooth run and divide the area into manageable zones. Determine the width of the first plank and fit it. Then measure the remaining space and determine the width of the next plank from that, not all planks measured at once. Since this is wood and a complex curved surface, each addition will change the open space in an unpredictable way. It kind of precludes mass application, when doing this properly. It is more like two planks at a time - since P&S are measured together. Using PVA, an hour or two should be enough clamping time and since the process does not stress the plank, the next plank can be worked on, rather than over night. If you do not mind the holes and the support is sufficient, hitch chucks and lils will clamp a plank with some force. Water may close the holes, they can be filled with bamboo "trunnels", if the lils are brass, nipped and filled - if you like the brass peg look- I am thinking of trying drawn copper wire as trunnels. Did anyone else see the photos of the old model where iron trunnels were used? The chemical reaction with large black stains in the planks and erosion of the iron?

To supplement Mark's post, in addition to the run of the grain, the species used can also produce problems. The solution is to use species suited to our needs. They tend to be more expensive and harder. The hardness means longer milling time and increased wear on cutting tools. The catalyst for the CA glue bonding reaction is water, so the bond should occur faster if anything with a damp surface. Wood in a humidor? My guess is that fungus would find that favorable. The wood should be in equilibrium with it finished environment.

Take a look at Bare Metal Foil - one of their products is copper. No idea about the longevity of the adhesive backing. As a material that can be burnished - the thickness may be closer to scale than the usual choices. I have no hands on experience with it. As what is now ancient history, I followed the suggestion from the original Model Shipways, with copper rectangles, flamed treated to darken and adhered using Weldwood contact cement. The combination failed to stick after a few years. The plates popped off, the remaining cement was a copper color, so an explanation may be a chemical reaction that migrated copper into the adhesive and negated its bonding capacity.

To answer your primary question- being literal = yes If you can't get the "brindle" effect reversed to satisfaction, and if you are near a Wood Craft outlet, check out their selection of veneer. Something like a thin Beech to overlay what you have. It could be dyed before being laid - a dye will not affect PVA bonding. Super blonde shellac with or without Tung oil = a bit more control over surface sheen.

Rather than a heat gun, a box with 100- 200-300 W of incandescent lights and a muffin fan or computer cooling fan would reduce the relative humidity and speed water evaporation. The light wattage level = the settings to dry faster but not too fast, and you could do something else as it drys. I seem remember seeing photos of auto paint rooms with banks of heat lamps -- but that paint is solvent based, so drying rate there is probably a completely different equation.