Jaager

Seal with shellac, then fill in grain with surfacing putty, sand fair, prime with a base coat and apply finish coats. Surfacing putty thins with acetone. Add a tablespoon of acetone to the can after each use, close the lid and store upside down. The putty will stay creamy for ages that way.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Interlux-Y257-PT-Surfacing-Putty/dp/B0000AY85D

If I were to work at it, I am pretty sure  that I could find more than a few examples of  an individual or company making money for providing a quick and easy solution - usually for more money than is deserved - by bundling freely available information or materials.  P.T. Barnum's  quip about the impossibility of under estimating taste probably rates a laziness corollary.
As for the greed of journal publishers, in the dusty corners of my memory, I recall something about journals requiring scientists having to pay a journal to publish a scientific paper and then having an absurd subscription fee for anyone else to read it.  The broad circulation and prestige journals are probably free of publication charges, but the competition for acceptance makes them not suitable for the publish or perish game.  Fits with the scam of a university confiscating 50% of every grant for services.
 

Tony,
 
If you have the money to burn and any sort of economy in a budget is not a goal, go for a serious precision mill.  Understand, that the necessary tooling will probably be be equal to the price of the mill if not more.   There will be few jobs for it where something less expensive will not be sufficient and it will mostly be a tool looking for a task.  Think of it as primarily a tool for those doing scratch POF with a focus on replicating the usually hidden internal support structure.  The real value for a mill as well as for a precision lathe is fabricating your own tools from metal raw material. 
 
As for another question it would probably save you some frustration and futility if you forgo any attempt at trying to use the Dremel as anything but a hand held rotary tool.  Unless you are doing a lot of trunneling, you are probably seeing it as a paper weight with POB kits.  Unless the expenditure is on drill bits or cutting tools, money spent on accessories to turn it into another sort of tool will probably be money that is wasted.
 
To repeat something glib,  a serious mill and especially a precision lathe fit well under a version of the Yacht Rule: 
If you have to ask if you need one, then it is probably something that you do not need - yet.
 
 

I think of sanding sealer as being a thick product.  Useful on open pore wood like Black Walnut, Oak, and A finish plywood to fill the pores and give a smooth even finish.  Intended more for full size furiture.
 
Shellac is an excellent traditional finish.  It can be as thick or thin as you wish.  It is not good for applications where it can come in contact with water.  It hydrates and turns white.  It can be easily repaired, but do not use it to finish a coffee table. 
A shellac finish can be removed with alcohol.
The material can be preextracted and purified and comes as Orange (probably straight from the beetle) to Super Blonde - almost water clear.  The solvent is alcohol (methyl, ethyl, 2-propanol, probably propanol if you can find it).  You can buy it in flakes and make up your own solution as needed.  The more purified are the flakes, the lower the maximium concentration you can make.  The impurities increase solubilitiy in alcohol.  The more volatile is the alcohol (Me>Ethyl>Prop) the less working time if you are using a cloth for application.  Dilute shellac is a good first coat for most any other finish.  It is very compatible with other finishes.  French polish seems to be multiple layers of shellac applied with a cloth that has a bit of Linseed oil in the cloth.  I would guess that Tung oil or Walnut oil might work as well.

If I were to work at it, I am pretty sure  that I could find more than a few examples of  an individual or company making money for providing a quick and easy solution - usually for more money than is deserved - by bundling freely available information or materials.  P.T. Barnum's  quip about the impossibility of under estimating taste probably rates a laziness corollary.
As for the greed of journal publishers, in the dusty corners of my memory, I recall something about journals requiring scientists having to pay a journal to publish a scientific paper and then having an absurd subscription fee for anyone else to read it.  The broad circulation and prestige journals are probably free of publication charges, but the competition for acceptance makes them not suitable for the publish or perish game.  Fits with the scam of a university confiscating 50% of every grant for services.
 

If I were to work at it, I am pretty sure  that I could find more than a few examples of  an individual or company making money for providing a quick and easy solution - usually for more money than is deserved - by bundling freely available information or materials.  P.T. Barnum's  quip about the impossibility of under estimating taste probably rates a laziness corollary.
As for the greed of journal publishers, in the dusty corners of my memory, I recall something about journals requiring scientists having to pay a journal to publish a scientific paper and then having an absurd subscription fee for anyone else to read it.  The broad circulation and prestige journals are probably free of publication charges, but the competition for acceptance makes them not suitable for the publish or perish game.  Fits with the scam of a university confiscating 50% of every grant for services.
 

If I were to work at it, I am pretty sure  that I could find more than a few examples of  an individual or company making money for providing a quick and easy solution - usually for more money than is deserved - by bundling freely available information or materials.  P.T. Barnum's  quip about the impossibility of under estimating taste probably rates a laziness corollary.
As for the greed of journal publishers, in the dusty corners of my memory, I recall something about journals requiring scientists having to pay a journal to publish a scientific paper and then having an absurd subscription fee for anyone else to read it.  The broad circulation and prestige journals are probably free of publication charges, but the competition for acceptance makes them not suitable for the publish or perish game.  Fits with the scam of a university confiscating 50% of every grant for services.
 

If I were to work at it, I am pretty sure  that I could find more than a few examples of  an individual or company making money for providing a quick and easy solution - usually for more money than is deserved - by bundling freely available information or materials.  P.T. Barnum's  quip about the impossibility of under estimating taste probably rates a laziness corollary.
As for the greed of journal publishers, in the dusty corners of my memory, I recall something about journals requiring scientists having to pay a journal to publish a scientific paper and then having an absurd subscription fee for anyone else to read it.  The broad circulation and prestige journals are probably free of publication charges, but the competition for acceptance makes them not suitable for the publish or perish game.  Fits with the scam of a university confiscating 50% of every grant for services.
 

If it is wax, paraffin - petrol based wax, an organic solvent should have an effect on it - e.g.  mineral spirits, naphtha, lacquer thinner - or hot white pet (Vaseline) or mineral oil  or 3-in-1,  Then the detergent and scrub to remove the lower MW liquid material.

And in the 17th century the length that seems to be in lists of ships and their dimensions is "touch".  That is the length of the keel that actually sits on the baseline.  The additional length forward involves - for most of the century - the arc of a circle, whose center is on a line perpendicular to the baseline at the fore end of the keel touch.  
It increased  the length on the gundeck ~20%.  The sternpost was also at an angle, which also added a few feet at the gundeck level.   "Improvements" towards the end of the century changed the forward part from the arc of a circle to a more acute angle that may have been a complex curve.
 
There once was a kit that was designed from plans that used touch from a table of dimensions as the value for LBP.  This made things a bit crowded at the waist.  I think it was HMS Prince.
 
Look for other discussions here about Sovereign - especially the one about John McKay's book.

If it is wax, paraffin - petrol based wax, an organic solvent should have an effect on it - e.g.  mineral spirits, naphtha, lacquer thinner - or hot white pet (Vaseline) or mineral oil  or 3-in-1,  Then the detergent and scrub to remove the lower MW liquid material.

And in the 17th century the length that seems to be in lists of ships and their dimensions is "touch".  That is the length of the keel that actually sits on the baseline.  The additional length forward involves - for most of the century - the arc of a circle, whose center is on a line perpendicular to the baseline at the fore end of the keel touch.  
It increased  the length on the gundeck ~20%.  The sternpost was also at an angle, which also added a few feet at the gundeck level.   "Improvements" towards the end of the century changed the forward part from the arc of a circle to a more acute angle that may have been a complex curve.
 
There once was a kit that was designed from plans that used touch from a table of dimensions as the value for LBP.  This made things a bit crowded at the waist.  I think it was HMS Prince.
 
Look for other discussions here about Sovereign - especially the one about John McKay's book.

The copper plates were not riveted.  The copper nails were hammered near flush.  They were all but invisible at a distance corresponding to a model viewing distance.
There were way more of them than a ponce wheel produces.  Model versions of copper sheathing with a raised or embossed addition mostly tends to give a hull a bad case of small pox.
 
I am still thinking that 100% rag bond paper, paint with real copper, using PVA to attach may be an effective alternative,  in which case, a guillotine type paper cutter would be a real help.  It may even work to slice individual plates from a strip.  The paper could be painted while still at the 8.5 x 11 stage. 

Best bet is that they are both wrong😏

A frequent method to build a model open boat is to fit planking over a solid or station mold. The adhesive bond plank to plank holds the shape when it is time to remove the mold.  The goal is to keep any adhesive bond between the planking and the mold at zero occurrence.  None at all.  Grocery stores till sell paraffin wax - candles may be from animal based sources-  A cling type sandwich wrap may be a better barrier.
 
I can also imagine a technique where the actual boat frames are mechanically held on the mold ( tricky to do at best ) and the planking bonded to these actual frames while on the mold.  But I think for most actual boat frames, their rank in order of attachment was/is last.  Often they were bent to fit - saving on time and skilled labor.
 
PVA is the wood to wood adhesive that is most frequently used -  both yellow and white have their champions here, although, unless you intend to float the hull, TiteBond III is probably over kill.   Hide glue would work, but liquid, such as Franklin or Old Brown may have too high a proportion of water.  Glue pot flakes has less water and is really old school,  but requires a lot of attention to prepare and maintain.  We do not need the reverse gear of a Strad or Chippendale on a ship model but it would work.
CA is an eleven footer for a lot of us dinosaurs.

If it is wax, paraffin - petrol based wax, an organic solvent should have an effect on it - e.g.  mineral spirits, naphtha, lacquer thinner - or hot white pet (Vaseline) or mineral oil  or 3-in-1,  Then the detergent and scrub to remove the lower MW liquid material.

If it is wax, paraffin - petrol based wax, an organic solvent should have an effect on it - e.g.  mineral spirits, naphtha, lacquer thinner - or hot white pet (Vaseline) or mineral oil  or 3-in-1,  Then the detergent and scrub to remove the lower MW liquid material.

No need to think any longer. I'll confirm that fact. Thin (proper scale thickness) archival bond paper glued on in "plates" of the correct size, following which the plates are shellacked to stabilize them and render the scales impervious to moisture, and then painted and weathered appropriately will do the best job of portraying a coppered bottom. The standard office/classroom paper cutter is just the ticket for getting out the plates.

The copper plates were not riveted.  The copper nails were hammered near flush.  They were all but invisible at a distance corresponding to a model viewing distance.
There were way more of them than a ponce wheel produces.  Model versions of copper sheathing with a raised or embossed addition mostly tends to give a hull a bad case of small pox.
 
I am still thinking that 100% rag bond paper, paint with real copper, using PVA to attach may be an effective alternative,  in which case, a guillotine type paper cutter would be a real help.  It may even work to slice individual plates from a strip.  The paper could be painted while still at the 8.5 x 11 stage. 

The copper plates were not riveted.  The copper nails were hammered near flush.  They were all but invisible at a distance corresponding to a model viewing distance.
There were way more of them than a ponce wheel produces.  Model versions of copper sheathing with a raised or embossed addition mostly tends to give a hull a bad case of small pox.
 
I am still thinking that 100% rag bond paper, paint with real copper, using PVA to attach may be an effective alternative,  in which case, a guillotine type paper cutter would be a real help.  It may even work to slice individual plates from a strip.  The paper could be painted while still at the 8.5 x 11 stage. 

The copper plates were not riveted.  The copper nails were hammered near flush.  They were all but invisible at a distance corresponding to a model viewing distance.
There were way more of them than a ponce wheel produces.  Model versions of copper sheathing with a raised or embossed addition mostly tends to give a hull a bad case of small pox.
 
I am still thinking that 100% rag bond paper, paint with real copper, using PVA to attach may be an effective alternative,  in which case, a guillotine type paper cutter would be a real help.  It may even work to slice individual plates from a strip.  The paper could be painted while still at the 8.5 x 11 stage. 

The copper plates were not riveted.  The copper nails were hammered near flush.  They were all but invisible at a distance corresponding to a model viewing distance.
There were way more of them than a ponce wheel produces.  Model versions of copper sheathing with a raised or embossed addition mostly tends to give a hull a bad case of small pox.
 
I am still thinking that 100% rag bond paper, paint with real copper, using PVA to attach may be an effective alternative,  in which case, a guillotine type paper cutter would be a real help.  It may even work to slice individual plates from a strip.  The paper could be painted while still at the 8.5 x 11 stage. 

The copper plates were not riveted.  The copper nails were hammered near flush.  They were all but invisible at a distance corresponding to a model viewing distance.
There were way more of them than a ponce wheel produces.  Model versions of copper sheathing with a raised or embossed addition mostly tends to give a hull a bad case of small pox.
 
I am still thinking that 100% rag bond paper, paint with real copper, using PVA to attach may be an effective alternative,  in which case, a guillotine type paper cutter would be a real help.  It may even work to slice individual plates from a strip.  The paper could be painted while still at the 8.5 x 11 stage. 

EGAD!!!    Why?  Although as an experienced modeler, you probably have a good reason.  I find it far too soft even as a filler.  I prefer basswood.
 
    ...but to answer your question, Hobby Lobby and Michael's both have balsa sheets that thick.

Bruce, Alan,
 
Your subject of interest best belongs in the Painting Forum.  It could seriously divert this build log. 
Copy/paste #296-299 to that forum and even though it is a subject that has many threads that intersect, it may have legs for a while. 
I can add a bit of clarification as can several others, but not here.  An important aspect of it is that it is more opinion than Science.  It is also a love me? love my opinion! sort of subject - a whole lot of emotional investment on the part of some.
 
Mark,
I have become a bit of a medical apostate.  I am willing to accept the consequences if I am wrong and there is only one investor, so keep this is mind.   About the >BP and the meds to affect it.  I would balance just how > the Bp gets and what the probable harm could be vs the side effects of the meds.  I have been away from the field for over 10 years and have not kept up at all.  But way back then, there were several paths with many different bundles of med induced problems, so if the course you are on is causing problems, try a different one.  If your doc is a love me, love my choice sort of Ego, rethink your choice of MD.   How bad would ignoring it be? How bad would just tapping it with HCTZ be?  Or just Atenolol?  or the two?  I started in the mid 60's  in hospital, and the basket of meds that were "vital"  to take chronically to reverse long term poorly chosen life style damage is very different from the basket when I bailed.