Jaager

A traditional froe is a wooden handle with a right angle straight blade at the bottom.  It was used to split out Cedar shingles.  The blade is a wedge that splits along the grain instead of cutting the wood.  The wood peels apart.
I have a smaller version - sort of looks like a paint stirring stick in shape - from a Japanese tool site - it was designed to split Bamboo.
 
You make a new yard - it is straight when finished - the wood was from a dowel - the dowel came from the outer part of the board and the grain is curved -  over time,  the yard seeks equilibrium - the rest of the board is gone, so no restraint - and it follows the grain -   I am just calling the bend "a dog's leg".   I do not know of any actual spars that are anything but straight - so dog's leg  is slang for an unwanted bend.
 
Spar is the umbrella term for masts, yards,  and booms.  I do not know if it is official, but it seems to be.
 
I do POF.  I use all bends - (two paired frames with each overlapping each butt joint of the other) - I like tight gaps - the closer the join, the stronger the bond.   No wood to wood joint will have enough PVA squeeze out to starve the joint (in a healthy situation)- especially if both surfaces are 100% covered first - wood is hydrophyllic - unlike metal - and too much clamping pressure (unhealthy) would crush the outer wood fibers before too little PVA is left .   I guess Basswood could too easily crush, but I class that species as being inappropriate for much of anything important.  For my needs, the Irwin clamp was a failure.   Another factor is to not use too fine a grit sanding medium on a wood surface that will be at a glue joint.  I like 220 but that is right at the edge of being too smooth.  The wood wants some "tooth".  Too fine a surface and it becomes metal-like.

A traditional froe is a wooden handle with a right angle straight blade at the bottom.  It was used to split out Cedar shingles.  The blade is a wedge that splits along the grain instead of cutting the wood.  The wood peels apart.
I have a smaller version - sort of looks like a paint stirring stick in shape - from a Japanese tool site - it was designed to split Bamboo.
 
You make a new yard - it is straight when finished - the wood was from a dowel - the dowel came from the outer part of the board and the grain is curved -  over time,  the yard seeks equilibrium - the rest of the board is gone, so no restraint - and it follows the grain -   I am just calling the bend "a dog's leg".   I do not know of any actual spars that are anything but straight - so dog's leg  is slang for an unwanted bend.
 
Spar is the umbrella term for masts, yards,  and booms.  I do not know if it is official, but it seems to be.
 
I do POF.  I use all bends - (two paired frames with each overlapping each butt joint of the other) - I like tight gaps - the closer the join, the stronger the bond.   No wood to wood joint will have enough PVA squeeze out to starve the joint (in a healthy situation)- especially if both surfaces are 100% covered first - wood is hydrophyllic - unlike metal - and too much clamping pressure (unhealthy) would crush the outer wood fibers before too little PVA is left .   I guess Basswood could too easily crush, but I class that species as being inappropriate for much of anything important.  For my needs, the Irwin clamp was a failure.   Another factor is to not use too fine a grit sanding medium on a wood surface that will be at a glue joint.  I like 220 but that is right at the edge of being too smooth.  The wood wants some "tooth".  Too fine a surface and it becomes metal-like.

A traditional froe is a wooden handle with a right angle straight blade at the bottom.  It was used to split out Cedar shingles.  The blade is a wedge that splits along the grain instead of cutting the wood.  The wood peels apart.
I have a smaller version - sort of looks like a paint stirring stick in shape - from a Japanese tool site - it was designed to split Bamboo.
 
You make a new yard - it is straight when finished - the wood was from a dowel - the dowel came from the outer part of the board and the grain is curved -  over time,  the yard seeks equilibrium - the rest of the board is gone, so no restraint - and it follows the grain -   I am just calling the bend "a dog's leg".   I do not know of any actual spars that are anything but straight - so dog's leg  is slang for an unwanted bend.
 
Spar is the umbrella term for masts, yards,  and booms.  I do not know if it is official, but it seems to be.
 
I do POF.  I use all bends - (two paired frames with each overlapping each butt joint of the other) - I like tight gaps - the closer the join, the stronger the bond.   No wood to wood joint will have enough PVA squeeze out to starve the joint (in a healthy situation)- especially if both surfaces are 100% covered first - wood is hydrophyllic - unlike metal - and too much clamping pressure (unhealthy) would crush the outer wood fibers before too little PVA is left .   I guess Basswood could too easily crush, but I class that species as being inappropriate for much of anything important.  For my needs, the Irwin clamp was a failure.   Another factor is to not use too fine a grit sanding medium on a wood surface that will be at a glue joint.  I like 220 but that is right at the edge of being too smooth.  The wood wants some "tooth".  Too fine a surface and it becomes metal-like.

Dowels are made using a punch type cutter.  The grain is often not dead straight.  If the grain is at a slope or angle - over time the dowel may follow the curve of the grain.
Using a froe on a straight grain board to split out straight grain sticks to turn into spars may save having a model with dog leg spars.
 
I use a lot of 4" ratchet clamps.  I want squeeze out pressure.  The Irwin clamps that I have are poor at generating any sort of pressure.  The only ones that I found that work to my needs are the HF clamps with the big grey wing nut.
The Widget Supply, MM, and small grey nut HF clamps have not done the job for me.

Dowels are made using a punch type cutter.  The grain is often not dead straight.  If the grain is at a slope or angle - over time the dowel may follow the curve of the grain.
Using a froe on a straight grain board to split out straight grain sticks to turn into spars may save having a model with dog leg spars.
 
I use a lot of 4" ratchet clamps.  I want squeeze out pressure.  The Irwin clamps that I have are poor at generating any sort of pressure.  The only ones that I found that work to my needs are the HF clamps with the big grey wing nut.
The Widget Supply, MM, and small grey nut HF clamps have not done the job for me.

Unlike plastic, it is neigh on to impossible to totally ruin a wooden ship kit.  Worse comes to worst, all of the material can be replaced with the natural material from outside sources, and started over as scratch.  It is better schooling too.
 
One of the tricks with carving is to use tools that work well. 
For more than light removal, StewMac has a pair of small razor files that are peachy keen.
For the sort of sanding that the hull needs, it is probably better to always have a wood backing on the sandpaper. 
Rubber cement - both surfaces coated, allowed to dry, and joined, fixes the paper to the backing and makes for easy renewal.
No matter how badly the hull looks,  it will still look better than any POB hull - unless the POB hull is totally filled between the molds.   And if that is done, it is essentially the same as a carved hull.
It is difficult to irreversibly damage a solid wood hull.  If too much is removed, the loss can be replaced.
If it is just a little, wood flour mixed with PVA makes a very strong layer, but it will be tougher to remove than the original wood after it sets up.   For a deeper patch, scab a layer of wood veneer - Pine works.
When you get the shape to match your templates, even if it is ugly, that is easy to hide.
The kit may offer this suggestion, but a solid carved hull makes an excellent support for a layer of actual planking.
The planking wood should be thin and of a scale appropriate species of hardwood.  Being thin, the planks can be properly spilled by using a steel straight edge and a sharp knife.  Since the hull is being gridled beyond its dimension, thin is best.
Using an appropriate species of wood can turn a chore into a joy. 
The model will look better.
 
 

Unlike plastic, it is neigh on to impossible to totally ruin a wooden ship kit.  Worse comes to worst, all of the material can be replaced with the natural material from outside sources, and started over as scratch.  It is better schooling too.
 
One of the tricks with carving is to use tools that work well. 
For more than light removal, StewMac has a pair of small razor files that are peachy keen.
For the sort of sanding that the hull needs, it is probably better to always have a wood backing on the sandpaper. 
Rubber cement - both surfaces coated, allowed to dry, and joined, fixes the paper to the backing and makes for easy renewal.
No matter how badly the hull looks,  it will still look better than any POB hull - unless the POB hull is totally filled between the molds.   And if that is done, it is essentially the same as a carved hull.
It is difficult to irreversibly damage a solid wood hull.  If too much is removed, the loss can be replaced.
If it is just a little, wood flour mixed with PVA makes a very strong layer, but it will be tougher to remove than the original wood after it sets up.   For a deeper patch, scab a layer of wood veneer - Pine works.
When you get the shape to match your templates, even if it is ugly, that is easy to hide.
The kit may offer this suggestion, but a solid carved hull makes an excellent support for a layer of actual planking.
The planking wood should be thin and of a scale appropriate species of hardwood.  Being thin, the planks can be properly spilled by using a steel straight edge and a sharp knife.  Since the hull is being gridled beyond its dimension, thin is best.
Using an appropriate species of wood can turn a chore into a joy. 
The model will look better.
 
 

Unlike plastic, it is neigh on to impossible to totally ruin a wooden ship kit.  Worse comes to worst, all of the material can be replaced with the natural material from outside sources, and started over as scratch.  It is better schooling too.
 
One of the tricks with carving is to use tools that work well. 
For more than light removal, StewMac has a pair of small razor files that are peachy keen.
For the sort of sanding that the hull needs, it is probably better to always have a wood backing on the sandpaper. 
Rubber cement - both surfaces coated, allowed to dry, and joined, fixes the paper to the backing and makes for easy renewal.
No matter how badly the hull looks,  it will still look better than any POB hull - unless the POB hull is totally filled between the molds.   And if that is done, it is essentially the same as a carved hull.
It is difficult to irreversibly damage a solid wood hull.  If too much is removed, the loss can be replaced.
If it is just a little, wood flour mixed with PVA makes a very strong layer, but it will be tougher to remove than the original wood after it sets up.   For a deeper patch, scab a layer of wood veneer - Pine works.
When you get the shape to match your templates, even if it is ugly, that is easy to hide.
The kit may offer this suggestion, but a solid carved hull makes an excellent support for a layer of actual planking.
The planking wood should be thin and of a scale appropriate species of hardwood.  Being thin, the planks can be properly spilled by using a steel straight edge and a sharp knife.  Since the hull is being gridled beyond its dimension, thin is best.
Using an appropriate species of wood can turn a chore into a joy. 
The model will look better.
 
 

Unlike plastic, it is neigh on to impossible to totally ruin a wooden ship kit.  Worse comes to worst, all of the material can be replaced with the natural material from outside sources, and started over as scratch.  It is better schooling too.
 
One of the tricks with carving is to use tools that work well. 
For more than light removal, StewMac has a pair of small razor files that are peachy keen.
For the sort of sanding that the hull needs, it is probably better to always have a wood backing on the sandpaper. 
Rubber cement - both surfaces coated, allowed to dry, and joined, fixes the paper to the backing and makes for easy renewal.
No matter how badly the hull looks,  it will still look better than any POB hull - unless the POB hull is totally filled between the molds.   And if that is done, it is essentially the same as a carved hull.
It is difficult to irreversibly damage a solid wood hull.  If too much is removed, the loss can be replaced.
If it is just a little, wood flour mixed with PVA makes a very strong layer, but it will be tougher to remove than the original wood after it sets up.   For a deeper patch, scab a layer of wood veneer - Pine works.
When you get the shape to match your templates, even if it is ugly, that is easy to hide.
The kit may offer this suggestion, but a solid carved hull makes an excellent support for a layer of actual planking.
The planking wood should be thin and of a scale appropriate species of hardwood.  Being thin, the planks can be properly spilled by using a steel straight edge and a sharp knife.  Since the hull is being gridled beyond its dimension, thin is best.
Using an appropriate species of wood can turn a chore into a joy. 
The model will look better.
 
 

Unlike plastic, it is neigh on to impossible to totally ruin a wooden ship kit.  Worse comes to worst, all of the material can be replaced with the natural material from outside sources, and started over as scratch.  It is better schooling too.
 
One of the tricks with carving is to use tools that work well. 
For more than light removal, StewMac has a pair of small razor files that are peachy keen.
For the sort of sanding that the hull needs, it is probably better to always have a wood backing on the sandpaper. 
Rubber cement - both surfaces coated, allowed to dry, and joined, fixes the paper to the backing and makes for easy renewal.
No matter how badly the hull looks,  it will still look better than any POB hull - unless the POB hull is totally filled between the molds.   And if that is done, it is essentially the same as a carved hull.
It is difficult to irreversibly damage a solid wood hull.  If too much is removed, the loss can be replaced.
If it is just a little, wood flour mixed with PVA makes a very strong layer, but it will be tougher to remove than the original wood after it sets up.   For a deeper patch, scab a layer of wood veneer - Pine works.
When you get the shape to match your templates, even if it is ugly, that is easy to hide.
The kit may offer this suggestion, but a solid carved hull makes an excellent support for a layer of actual planking.
The planking wood should be thin and of a scale appropriate species of hardwood.  Being thin, the planks can be properly spilled by using a steel straight edge and a sharp knife.  Since the hull is being gridled beyond its dimension, thin is best.
Using an appropriate species of wood can turn a chore into a joy. 
The model will look better.
 
 

Unlike plastic, it is neigh on to impossible to totally ruin a wooden ship kit.  Worse comes to worst, all of the material can be replaced with the natural material from outside sources, and started over as scratch.  It is better schooling too.
 
One of the tricks with carving is to use tools that work well. 
For more than light removal, StewMac has a pair of small razor files that are peachy keen.
For the sort of sanding that the hull needs, it is probably better to always have a wood backing on the sandpaper. 
Rubber cement - both surfaces coated, allowed to dry, and joined, fixes the paper to the backing and makes for easy renewal.
No matter how badly the hull looks,  it will still look better than any POB hull - unless the POB hull is totally filled between the molds.   And if that is done, it is essentially the same as a carved hull.
It is difficult to irreversibly damage a solid wood hull.  If too much is removed, the loss can be replaced.
If it is just a little, wood flour mixed with PVA makes a very strong layer, but it will be tougher to remove than the original wood after it sets up.   For a deeper patch, scab a layer of wood veneer - Pine works.
When you get the shape to match your templates, even if it is ugly, that is easy to hide.
The kit may offer this suggestion, but a solid carved hull makes an excellent support for a layer of actual planking.
The planking wood should be thin and of a scale appropriate species of hardwood.  Being thin, the planks can be properly spilled by using a steel straight edge and a sharp knife.  Since the hull is being gridled beyond its dimension, thin is best.
Using an appropriate species of wood can turn a chore into a joy. 
The model will look better.
 
 

Unlike plastic, it is neigh on to impossible to totally ruin a wooden ship kit.  Worse comes to worst, all of the material can be replaced with the natural material from outside sources, and started over as scratch.  It is better schooling too.
 
One of the tricks with carving is to use tools that work well. 
For more than light removal, StewMac has a pair of small razor files that are peachy keen.
For the sort of sanding that the hull needs, it is probably better to always have a wood backing on the sandpaper. 
Rubber cement - both surfaces coated, allowed to dry, and joined, fixes the paper to the backing and makes for easy renewal.
No matter how badly the hull looks,  it will still look better than any POB hull - unless the POB hull is totally filled between the molds.   And if that is done, it is essentially the same as a carved hull.
It is difficult to irreversibly damage a solid wood hull.  If too much is removed, the loss can be replaced.
If it is just a little, wood flour mixed with PVA makes a very strong layer, but it will be tougher to remove than the original wood after it sets up.   For a deeper patch, scab a layer of wood veneer - Pine works.
When you get the shape to match your templates, even if it is ugly, that is easy to hide.
The kit may offer this suggestion, but a solid carved hull makes an excellent support for a layer of actual planking.
The planking wood should be thin and of a scale appropriate species of hardwood.  Being thin, the planks can be properly spilled by using a steel straight edge and a sharp knife.  Since the hull is being gridled beyond its dimension, thin is best.
Using an appropriate species of wood can turn a chore into a joy. 
The model will look better.
 
 

Unlike plastic, it is neigh on to impossible to totally ruin a wooden ship kit.  Worse comes to worst, all of the material can be replaced with the natural material from outside sources, and started over as scratch.  It is better schooling too.
 
One of the tricks with carving is to use tools that work well. 
For more than light removal, StewMac has a pair of small razor files that are peachy keen.
For the sort of sanding that the hull needs, it is probably better to always have a wood backing on the sandpaper. 
Rubber cement - both surfaces coated, allowed to dry, and joined, fixes the paper to the backing and makes for easy renewal.
No matter how badly the hull looks,  it will still look better than any POB hull - unless the POB hull is totally filled between the molds.   And if that is done, it is essentially the same as a carved hull.
It is difficult to irreversibly damage a solid wood hull.  If too much is removed, the loss can be replaced.
If it is just a little, wood flour mixed with PVA makes a very strong layer, but it will be tougher to remove than the original wood after it sets up.   For a deeper patch, scab a layer of wood veneer - Pine works.
When you get the shape to match your templates, even if it is ugly, that is easy to hide.
The kit may offer this suggestion, but a solid carved hull makes an excellent support for a layer of actual planking.
The planking wood should be thin and of a scale appropriate species of hardwood.  Being thin, the planks can be properly spilled by using a steel straight edge and a sharp knife.  Since the hull is being gridled beyond its dimension, thin is best.
Using an appropriate species of wood can turn a chore into a joy. 
The model will look better.
 
 

Before there was synthetic organic chemistry , begun in Germany in the latter part of the 19th century,  paint pigments were naturally occurring minerals.  The minerals are the same color today,  so there is not much guess work about the colors and the pallet is somewhat limited. 
 
In their early monographs, ANCRE included a page with patches of colors.
 
 

Before there was synthetic organic chemistry , begun in Germany in the latter part of the 19th century,  paint pigments were naturally occurring minerals.  The minerals are the same color today,  so there is not much guess work about the colors and the pallet is somewhat limited. 
 
In their early monographs, ANCRE included a page with patches of colors.
 
 

Before there was synthetic organic chemistry , begun in Germany in the latter part of the 19th century,  paint pigments were naturally occurring minerals.  The minerals are the same color today,  so there is not much guess work about the colors and the pallet is somewhat limited. 
 
In their early monographs, ANCRE included a page with patches of colors.
 
 

Before there was synthetic organic chemistry , begun in Germany in the latter part of the 19th century,  paint pigments were naturally occurring minerals.  The minerals are the same color today,  so there is not much guess work about the colors and the pallet is somewhat limited. 
 
In their early monographs, ANCRE included a page with patches of colors.
 
 

Before there was synthetic organic chemistry , begun in Germany in the latter part of the 19th century,  paint pigments were naturally occurring minerals.  The minerals are the same color today,  so there is not much guess work about the colors and the pallet is somewhat limited. 
 
In their early monographs, ANCRE included a page with patches of colors.
 
 

For aspects that are essentially a color effect such as caulking, it is worth considering scale effect.  If strict adherence to actual scale is followed, those color - especially dark color - parts may present as being much larger than they actually are. 
The Walnut dyed PVA  may be as wide as is needed.  Slamming the viewer with wide stripes may be a distraction.  Going wider may want the color of the caulking to be dialed back in darkness, a lot.

Before there was synthetic organic chemistry , begun in Germany in the latter part of the 19th century,  paint pigments were naturally occurring minerals.  The minerals are the same color today,  so there is not much guess work about the colors and the pallet is somewhat limited. 
 
In their early monographs, ANCRE included a page with patches of colors.
 
 

For aspects that are essentially a color effect such as caulking, it is worth considering scale effect.  If strict adherence to actual scale is followed, those color - especially dark color - parts may present as being much larger than they actually are. 
The Walnut dyed PVA  may be as wide as is needed.  Slamming the viewer with wide stripes may be a distraction.  Going wider may want the color of the caulking to be dialed back in darkness, a lot.

For aspects that are essentially a color effect such as caulking, it is worth considering scale effect.  If strict adherence to actual scale is followed, those color - especially dark color - parts may present as being much larger than they actually are. 
The Walnut dyed PVA  may be as wide as is needed.  Slamming the viewer with wide stripes may be a distraction.  Going wider may want the color of the caulking to be dialed back in darkness, a lot.

For aspects that are essentially a color effect such as caulking, it is worth considering scale effect.  If strict adherence to actual scale is followed, those color - especially dark color - parts may present as being much larger than they actually are. 
The Walnut dyed PVA  may be as wide as is needed.  Slamming the viewer with wide stripes may be a distraction.  Going wider may want the color of the caulking to be dialed back in darkness, a lot.

For aspects that are essentially a color effect such as caulking, it is worth considering scale effect.  If strict adherence to actual scale is followed, those color - especially dark color - parts may present as being much larger than they actually are. 
The Walnut dyed PVA  may be as wide as is needed.  Slamming the viewer with wide stripes may be a distraction.  Going wider may want the color of the caulking to be dialed back in darkness, a lot.

I appreciate the intended humor. 
I will use this as a gate though.
I very much resist using aerosol anything.  The process turns materials that would not otherwise be available to breathe into particles that gain easy access to our alveoli.  It increases the concentration of volatiles  that are able to get there.
I use lacquer -  the brushing version - to coat my patterns.  It sort of simulates Mylar.  
There are two flavors of lacquer thinner. There is the original and there is "Green".  Both contain a rogues gallery of organics that are better not allowed to float around in our bodies.  From just brushing it, both solvents are fierce to breathe and to the eyes.  Only using it outside works for me. 
The spray version would not only increase the concentration of the solvents in the air, it would allow the actual particles of lacquer itself to be small enough to breathe.   I know - spray booth - and/ or space suit - can remediate most of the effects.  I prefer to not create situations where remediation is necessary if I can avoid it.  
The brushing lacquer is "designed" or "by its nature must"  leave a thick layer - that is the whole point in what I use it for.
 
I know spray lacquer can leave a thin protective barrier - I played a trombone thru age 19.  Lacquer is used to keep the brass shiny and in the hands of teens in travel and outside conditions,  the finish often needs renewal.  But, professionals applied it in "supposedly" ( it was the 60's ) safe conditions.  At home, it fails my cost vs benefit evaluation.