marktiedens

I think I have completed all of the topside deck fixtures with the exception of the long boat. If you choose to go the long route and add a lot of detail, it takes quite a while to do. 
 
Next up is the rudder assembly.
 
Vince P. 

First up was the main cabin.  I had a couple previous attempts that never quite fit the bill.  Being the Captain (and not replicating a specific ship so naysayers handcuffed) I mulled it over and jumped in.  A couple of hours later and I stand back to a finished piece.  I opted for the sliding top with a panel that slides up and out to reveal the stairwell.  A couple of 1/48 friends have joined the build to insure everything works.  
 
All the deck furniture is still removable.  Next up is to get stuff nailed down.  - Mark

Hey everyone, I hope you are all enjoying the weekend. Thanks to all for stopping, for your likes and comments.
 Today's update is showing the catheads and anchors. I realise it is a bit early for the anchors but I couldn't resist the urge to see how they would look, they can be easily removed if required.
 

This is a practice cathead, just to get the fit, angles and dimensions right. This is just 6 x 6 mm basswood, the final product is made from 6 x 6 mm rosewood. The holes and simulated sheaves were made on the mill using a 1 mm end mill cutter.
 

 
I am just showing for those who haven't done this before how I install the anchors. A line is put through the eye on the cathead pulled through, doubled over itself forming a loop, wrapped around itself(three times in this case) and then fed through the loop 
 

Pull both ends to tighten seizing 
 

 Then move seizing up into place
 

 There is a hook stropped to the double block. The line is then fed through block and sheave in cathead and finally belayed to a cleat. The rope around the anchor shaft has a thimble seized in it. Rope is wrapped around the shaft and belayed to the kinighthead.
 

I didn't care for how loose the line through the cathead and block was so I painted the line with diluted pva glue and added the tweezers for weight
 

This is the final result. The anchor rope is from Syren that has been dyed from tan to brown. All other rope used is kit supplied, The hook on the block needs some touching up...as does some of the other some of the other paint by looking at these close ups
 

And a shot from inboard
 

 Finally a picture of the tool I use to make hooks with. I found this here on MSW some time ago and I can't remember the fellow's name but I surely thank him as it works great.

Well,after spending the better part of the day applying a wash to all those gold decorations,I think there is a real improvement to them. The first picture is before & the next three are after applying the wash. They actually look better in person than my cheapo camera shows.
 
Mark
 

 

 

 

A little over a year, not too bad.  The workshop is reconfigured and the Lady Anne finds itself once again on the bench.  It took awhile to find all the bits (including those new belaying pins) but I think I am back to the status quo.  Deck house undergoing major redo (very little is glued).  Accounting for over a 100 deck tie down requirements (not counting belaying pins).  The second image identifies these points are cross references to the procured Pride of Baltimore plans upon which the rigging will be based on.
 
Excited to get back at it.  I can't predict how much time will be available but someone has said the wood always waits, and that has been proven many times.  Time for that deckhouse
 
Stay building my friends, Mark.

It took about a half hour to assemble this months parts 
 
The two decks:
 

 

 
The doors, or whatever it's called...
 

 

 
The single aftmost door:
 

 

 
Somehow the deck was 3-4 mm too low so I had to lift it up and hang it on the door frames:
Later the planking will help keep it in place...

 

 
The metal pieces that came are the roofs of the doors at the bottom of the photograph.
 
More to come when I start planking again...
 
I have also more or less finished the Battlestation now. Only have to mount the netting on top and do a couple of ropecoils for the left cannon.
This is how it looks:
 

 

 
When this is done and out of the house a tram and Lisboa diorama is up for building in the background of Vasa.

Well,I decided I didn`t like them either,so I pulled them off & painted the panes black. A ship in port with no sails set would probably not have the lanterns lit anyway. The liquid glass I used never did dry right & looked a bit foggy.
 
Mark

Well,after spending the better part of the day applying a wash to all those gold decorations,I think there is a real improvement to them. The first picture is before & the next three are after applying the wash. They actually look better in person than my cheapo camera shows.
 
Mark
 

 

 

 

Greg - no problem with the language differences. I have more problems with some of my fellow Americans who can`t write a coherent sentence.
 
Thanks Keith.
 
Mark

Hi Mates,
 
Got myself into a bit of a mess. As I’ve mentioned this is my second build. My Santa Maria so many years ago, by comparison, was a walk in the park, even for me a first time builder.
 Well as I have been really learning so much about rigging this Vasa I realize now, in retrospect, that I had/have very little foresight.
 
 For example; I installed the knights with cross-bits at the base of the foremast and main, without thinking ahead. I was happy that I had learned how to use the Proxxon to make slits for the sheaves. And let it go at that – happy to install. Even added nails in the cross pieces to “look” better.
 
So, now, looking ahead at the Corel rigging plans I realize that the cross-bits also needed pin holes (a lot of them) It took the THIRD, and last Corel rigging page to point this out to me (a learner) grrrrr. There was no way that I could drill these fourteen holes at this point.
 
Thought that I could wiggle the knights free and pull them up through the weather deck. The first set install they were just glued into place on the weather deck. When I built new ones with the sheaves I also cut holes through the deck and ran the new knights to the deck below.
They were not “going anywhere” curses. Then thought that I would just tear out the two cross pieces and make new ones, but was nervous about those cross bit nails.
 
Turns out the nails were only decorative and the cross bits just snapped off using small pliers.
 
=====================
 
Sharing because I’m super relieved, and in case another builder misses this foresight as I did as a newbie.
 
Cheers Mates sorry for the long prose. Ok time for a single malt – I think ha ha

 
 

Good morning all, Thanks to all those who have stopped by, left likes and/or comments.
 Just a small update. Some progress such as nailing the main rail(with .4 nylon fishing line) was a bit of a waste of time. I was so happy with the results on the companion way I thought I would do more of it not realising it would be lost in the dark grain of the walnut. Although it may look like what a house fly may have left behind the nails can be seen(if you really look close) on some of the close ups. Breast hooks, knightheads and the aft rail were also completed, I replaced the kit supplied walnut with rosewood for these. Another detail that is hard to notice is the rope used to tie the hatch lids together. I finally put my Syren serving machine together and decided to serve some line for the first time and give it a try. The line served is just normal sewing thread and I used the same thread for the serving, the final rope measures approximately .5 mm and again you have to look real close. 
 

An eye was seized in one end of rope then the other end pulled through and tied off with a couple of half hitches 
 
Take Care and Thanks for stopping in.

BE, Pat, Joe, Michael, Nils, Wayne, JPAM  and the likes - thanks so much.
 
Ron - I'm hoping to make it, would love to see your fantastic Diana in person, my challenge is always football/soccer as I coach my sons team and that takes a big bite out of weekends at this time of year.  If I could just arrange a game in New London then I'd be set!
 
Small update, I've been missing making posts but I have a little to share and hope pictures make up for it.  Continuing to work on the more foundational aspects as I can.  Paint has been applied to the upper hull - I used Tamiya matt XF-18 medium blue.  I applied many layers of watered down paint and corrected larger imperfections, but left the slight imperfections from planking visible.  I'm no painter and have limited experience with modern acrylics!  Watering down the paint gives a nice smooth finish, but at the expense of surface uniformity - this should disappear completely once a clear sealer is applied so not concerned.  I found that using a brush the undiluted paint dries so quickly that brush mark are inevitable.  Lots of touchup to do which should be pretty easy, but I want to get a protective coat of poly onto the boxwood to reduce the risk of mishaps.
 
The waist rail has been applied on one side and the side steps added.  I left gaps for the fenders, after having already cut these roughly to shape - using boxwood of course adds the number of pieces that need to be fabricated to keep consistent.  I wont attach these until later.  Steps were made using 2x2mm boxwood strip and a different profile scraper to the side molding and then cut length and shaping the ends.  These hopefully give more of an impression of the fine molding as keeping that to scale was just too much for me.  The upper and lower 2 steps are not glued yet.  I think they pass the scale test with the assistance of Able Seaman Lewis.


I've also made up the anchor lining bolsters, not identified in the kit plans but approximated from AOTS and TFFM.


And the usual 'all over' shot of where things stand..

 
 
 

Well,after spending the better part of the day applying a wash to all those gold decorations,I think there is a real improvement to them. The first picture is before & the next three are after applying the wash. They actually look better in person than my cheapo camera shows.
 
Mark
 

 

 

 

A small update - decided I might as well mount the stern lanterns,so I made some side braces from some .8mm brass rod & glued them all in place. Next ,I cut & shaped all the stunsail yards. The stunsail irons were made from some brass & copper tubing & they were fitted on the stunsail yard with .8mm brass rod. I made caps for the end of the yard out of thin copper strip. They were attached at a 45 degree angle from the center of the yard I only have the fore topsail yard completed,so 3 more to go. The irons around the yard was made from black card stock.
 
Mark
 
 

 

 

 

Another update - the main mast was built identical to the fore mast,except larger. Hard to get a good picture of it since the height is about 770mm above deck level.
 
Mark

Update - after a lot of cutting,shaping,filing,& sanding the foremast has been assembled & painted.
Mark
For some reason,all the pictures are in reverse order.
 

Bloody grouse, mate. 
 
(Go google it)

Well,after spending the better part of the day applying a wash to all those gold decorations,I think there is a real improvement to them. The first picture is before & the next three are after applying the wash. They actually look better in person than my cheapo camera shows.
 
Mark
 

 

 

 

... after this the deck is to be done... the top sides of the bulkheads are cut off and the top edges of the bulkheads are beveled ... Everything is prepared for the deck base instalation... The deck base comes after this and the deck will lay on the smooth base in the one of the next building phases ...
 
 

Pete,
I'd also like to thank you for the work you put into those interpretive build instructions.  Great job!  I continually refer to those and Marks posts for ideas for my own build.  I'm still quite a ways from rigging, needing to finish installing the guns and some more work on the hull.  I'm not really a fast model ship builder, nor a slow one.  More of a half fast ship builder....
 
Bill

Thanks for your hard work Pete. I am still finishing up the yard assemblies,so it won`t be too much longer before I start the actual rigging.
 
Mark

Over the last few months, I have worked through a very challenging task of creating a set of files that cover the rigging of the Royal William. They include text, diagrams and photos arranged in a sequential order of rigging. They are freely available for anybody who wishes to make use of them and it is my fervent desire that they will add to the joy of creating this mighty ship. Having said that, there is still some work to be done on these files to fully complete them. Hopefully, the MSW members will 'jump in' and make this a real community effort through a range of ideas, suggestions and criticisms. I feel that this task is more than one person can handle so I will wait to see what happens. The files concerned range from RW.06 through to RW.10. The link to the Euromodel website is ....
 
https://www.euromodel-ship.com/eng/royal-william-i-i.php
 
Pete

ROYAL WILLIAM RIGGING
Over the last few months, I have worked through a very challenging task of creating a set of files that cover the rigging of the Royal William. They include text, diagrams and photos arranged in a sequential order of rigging. They are freely available for anybody who wishes to make use of them and it is my fervent desire that they will add to the joy of creating this mighty ship. Having said that, there is still some work to be done on these files to fully complete them. Hopefully, the MSW members will 'jump in' and make this a real community effort through a range of ideas, suggestions and criticisms. I feel that this task is more than one person can handle so I will wait to see what happens. The files concerned range from RW.06 through to RW.10. The link to the Euromodel website is ....
 
https://www.euromodel-ship.com/eng/royal-william-i-i.php
 
Pete

Well,after spending the better part of the day applying a wash to all those gold decorations,I think there is a real improvement to them. The first picture is before & the next three are after applying the wash. They actually look better in person than my cheapo camera shows.
 
Mark
 

 

 

 

Well,I decided I didn`t like them either,so I pulled them off & painted the panes black. A ship in port with no sails set would probably not have the lanterns lit anyway. The liquid glass I used never did dry right & looked a bit foggy.
 
Mark