Desertanimal

Can’t answer your color questions other than use what looks good to you. Airbrush is a great tool. You will be able to see all your details. Are those other items PE? I have not built Sherbourne. If they are Photo Etched you will probably want to chemically blacken them instead of paint. If you are not familiar there are plenty of posts about doing it. It will give a nice look and be more permanent than paint. Chris

I didn’t see what size dowel you used. Chris

Thank you Chuck. I wanted a quick little project before I started Cheerful. I’m not sure I chose wisely. HAHA. I love the little boat! I’m just really trying to complete her to my highest ability. So that does not equate to quick little project. Time to start on the floorboards. I wanted to play around with black monofilament for bolts or nails and such. I did some shaping of the center board from the plans and also did some test holes for the monofilament I have. I ended up using a #77 drill bit. The line is .40 mm. Then just more of the same for the other boards. I really thought I was doing well and I see the nail lines are not straight. There was a lot of things to keep track of while gluing those in. I’m not going to worry about them and just keep it as a lesson to keep a closer eye on those also. Now on to the little decks. I was not looking forward to these as I have a really hard time visualizing what shape things like this need to be when they have compound curves. Plus its basically impossible to measure in there. I used a trick that I saw in the build log of @BobF. He used little bits of paper and made a template. I tried it and I think it worked out well for me. I transferred it to a single layer of manilla folder then onto the boxwood floors I had made and cut them out. I don’t seem to have any pics of the backs but I did put some 1/32” boards on the back for strength and to help keep them flat. The final fit could be better but I’m good with them. When final dry fitting something like this how do you tell where the part is getting stuck and needs a little more shaping? Here they are installed and a coat of WOP. What do you think of the size of the monofilament? I think it might be a little strong but with all the other stuff going on above them I don’t want them to get lost as they were a lot of work. I’m thinking between the floor boards and the decks I have about 15 hours in them. Thanks for looking!! I appreciate all the comments and likes! Chris

I appreciate that! Thank you. Thank you! Today I’ll be finishing up the floorboards. I think they’re looking good.

Question for you. Do you plan on what you’re going to do on paper or is it just in your head after looking at the plans? Like the plan to expose the litter deck. Chris

Moving right along this is the final shape of the cap rail. This pic looks like I’ve put a coat of WOP on her also. Now time for the breast hook. I got the basic shape from the plans and also holding a piece of wood up against the location on the boat. Never dawned on me to copy the laser cut part. I never even looked for it. I don’t know if it would have helped or not as the shape probably wouldn’t have match as I’m mounting it flush with the cap rail. Still a little more shaping to do, but it’s mounted. Now time for paint! I enjoy painting, usually. I decided brush was the way to go as I had no interest in masking the inside wales with all those ribs in the way in order to air brush it. I did go back and forth with the edge of the cap being white. I did the red first then the white. Then had to go back and touch up red, then white. I’d say three or four of those cycles and I had it clean. I then used some WOP on it. Later on I was working on it and the poly had not dried and ended up retouching the paint a few more times…. The colors I used are Warpaint- Dragon Red and Brainmatter Beige. I then sprayed the appliqués with mat fixative on both sides and cut one out after it was thoroughly dry. After dry fitting I applied it with some slightly thinned Elmer’s white glue. Repeated that on the other side and then applied the rub rail. I had previously painted it beige on three sides. A little dab of water from my finger and it bend around the tip nicely. I started at the bow and used a dab of medium CA with a little clamp. Once that was secure I continued down the side with titebond. And, as she sits…. Thanks for stopping by!! Chris

I’ve never actually padded shellac but Eric is absolutely correct. I’ve seen finishers put their pads in little jars, a dab of alcohol if it’s drying out. By the time you’re ready to use it the alcohol will be in the pad so you can usually just dump it into your hand. Chris

Now it’s time to remove the bulkheads and thin the frames down. I used one of the course files you get in various tool “kits” from model expo. It made quick work of the attachment points without causing any trouble. I did snap off a couple of frame tips that were not attached to the top planks very well. Those were easily glued back on and it’s essentially invisible. I tended to use lesser than more glue because cleanup was hard to get to during planking and it’s not going to be easy cleaning up a lot of excess glue between the frames. Then sanding them down was tedious. I didn’t want to use power like a dremel for fear of taking too much off. So various grits of sandpaper and I went at it. Made a little Thor’s hammer to help. It was OK but wasn’t used everywhere. I saw this on @BobF’s build of this boat. I actually need to give him more credit than just that as I’ve studied his build log immensely. Got them down to where I liked them and then it was time for the cap rail. I held a 1/16 sheet of boxwood against the wale and traced it. Here’s a question for you guys, while I was cutting out the boxwood it seems really brittle has that been other’s experience? Now I was using a bandsaw with a fairly rough cutting blade so it could have been that. Also cutting out small pieces with a sharp exacto will have it split sometimes also. Anyway I cut out the piece way oversized. I cut out the part for the stem and glued it on. I didn't have any curved exacto blades to use for glue cleanup. I ordered some but while waiting continued working on the cap rails. The plan was to NOT glue them on until I cleaned up the inside. Ooops, I missed that memo. So now it’s a little bit harder to get to! HaHaHa. I then sanded them down to a 1/64 overhang. It still looks a little heavy where the breasthook goes, so I’ll probably take that down a little more. Here’s where we stand so far. I’m trying to decide if I can get away without painting the wales since it will be a shame to paint over that woodgrain. Thanks for checking out my build! Chris

Thanks Ronald. I really tried to take my time with each plank.

OK so I just made this post like an hour ago, I clicked submit reply and it just went away. So if this ends up posting twice I will delete one. I’m continuing with planking. These are some tight curves since it’s so small. The boxwood seems to want to fight back against bending. Does that match with other’s experience using boxwood? Used some clamps to help keep the seams tight. I used the Scotch tape method to get the shape of the final plank and then shaped it. Here she is pre sanding. Not the prettiest planking but I think my skills are improving. Post sanding. I was able to not have to use any wood filler. I did use a little thinned glue in a few seams while I sanded it smooth. I then used tape to line out the simulated treenails. On the other side I used pencil marks. I’m not sure where the line is between dedication to the craft and insanity. If my rough math is correct I drilled just short of 800 holes. I gave the hull a couple of coats of WOP, this was to try to limit any staining from the wood filler that I plan to use in the holes. I used a lab spatula to push walnut colored wood filler into the holes. I would then use a damp micro fiber cloth to wipe off the excess. One side is WOP’d the other not. I’m really happy with the results. It looks a little shiny because it’s wet. The dots are less pronounced after drying. So in the next steps I will be removing the bulk of the bulkheads. Thanks for stopping in. The likes and comments are always appreciated! Until next time. Chris

I think Hornet pretty much summed it up. I recently finished Alert. Excellent kit like everyone says. Just less rigging with Adder. Among other obvious differences. You can’t really go wrong with either kit. You might get more specific answers if you narrow your question a little. “Compare them” is pretty broad.

Beautiful build BE! Your work is exemplary and your logs are a joy to watch. Not to mention the wealth of information they contain. I really like the display you chose. Chris

Great research work! I’ll be following along. I also followed DeeDee’s build when I built mine. Chris

That’s some excellent work. You make it look so easy Chuck!

First off PVA won’t cause trouble on the second layer. Planking is for sure a big stumbling block for many. Including me. You ask how to cut the planks, that’s the easy part. Use a steel ruler and put it on top of TWO planks laid side by side. One you will trim the other is just to hold up the left edge of the ruler, assuming right handed. That keeps the ruler level. Then it’s bend and fit, trial and error. Are you edge bending? That’s the key for many. Once you have that figured out it will help a lot. A combination of edge bending and curving the plank will usually get it to sit quite flat. You hear a lot about clamping the planks in place. You should not need a lot of clamping pressure to hold them. They should sit flat so a little finger pressure is all it takes to get the glue to hold then start on the next plank. Usually the matching plank on the other side, so your a step ahead. You’ve already made one just like. Except opposite bend direction. In this picture you see the plank edge bent to match the curve. Next I’ll curve it along the length and it should lay very nice. That plank is boxwood. I use water and a small quilting iron. No boiling, no ammonia, or any other silly stuff you’ll hear. I’m far from an expert with this but I do think I’ve improved my skills over my earlier boats. This boat will not be painted so I’m trying very hard not to use any filler. Hope this helps a little and makes sense. Chris