Richard Griffith

Great post by Jay the Modeler12~! 
When I tried these last year, I had to glue some sandpaper to the inside of the jaws to increase their holding power on the bulkheads.  The best glue for this is urethane.
Another variation is to install short lengths of nails instead of toothpicks. 
For the reverse clothes pins, you can glue small pieces of wood to the tips to act like extended (deep) clamps.
When clamping thicker parts together, I cut off the round part at the front end which laves a gap when closed but applies the right pressure when in use.
 
Have fun~!                 Duff

Wow thanks guys! It's really fun to build this little stove, much more than I had imagined. Now I understand why people build small buildings from individual brick, one ought to try once. 
Tony, I think a simple stew would be appropriate.
Gee Rusty you're tough to please
 
So chimney added, time to make some pots and pans....
 

 

 

 

 
Remco

An other trade to master, stone  masonry ... 
 
I cancelled the stones I had ordered and got a rubber mold from dioramadebris.co.uk instead , now I can cast my own bricks in the color I want. First I made a big batch with slightly different colors (plaster & pigment)
 

 
Then I had to find a way to make the mortar. At first I glued the sones with thin paper sheet in-between to get an even spacing. I had planned to use sculpey to make the mortar but this doesn't stick to plaster :-( 
So I had to find an other solution, from the DYI shop I got a pack with powder mixed with water this is used to fill holes in walls, as this dries in just under 1 hour it looked good, but this didn't stick to the plaster too :-( 
 

 
So I mixed it with titebond and pigment and this was a working formula. The surplus removed just before it dries and with a wet brush I softened the flushing. 
 

 

 

 

 
At this point the chimney needs to be made, I'll make this from brick and not steel like my original plan. In the two holes two big cooking pans are fitted. The square hole's on the sides will get a metal hinged doors. Opposite to the hearth I'll make a pantry with different kitchen utensils. I must say it's really time consuming to make but this is really a lot of fun to do. The admiral is complaining she didn't see me all weekend :-D 
 
Remco

Hi Vivian, your lateen yard and sail look great! 
 
Duff

HI Mel-Drew, ratlines are are installed parrallel to the futtock staff, which is horizontal. 'Rattling down' derives from the practice of starting from the top and going down to the dead eyes.  Dead eyes normally follow the sheer, and so too the stretcher, or sheerpole.  The stretcher, if installed, is to prevent the shrouds from twisting and thereby keeps the lanyards from fouling. 
The stretcher may or may not be horizontal, but the ratlines must be - the sailors must be able to climb them, in all weathers.
 
Duffer in Middletown, CT

Doris, as so many others have said, thank you for posting and sharing with us your work. 
 
Your artistry and creativity are so inspiring and at such a high level~!  I see that I have much to learn from you.
 
Best wishes to you for this new year.
 
Duff

Since you already own the ebony, then use it. 
I saw an article about using ebony to make cannon barrels-very nicely done, too.
Just be sure to use a mask and dust collection system as the dust is toxic.
 
Duff

Doris, as so many others have said, thank you for posting and sharing with us your work. 
 
Your artistry and creativity are so inspiring and at such a high level~!  I see that I have much to learn from you.
 
Best wishes to you for this new year.
 
Duff

Actual pics:

Next step was to furl the sail as much as possible off the build before attaching the gaff to the main mast:

 



 

 

I was able to completely furl the head area along the gaff up to the throat of the gaff.  You'll see I used three gasket type lines to hold the furl here, to somewhat represent the brail lines.  Not sure if this would be accurate as I think the brail lines actually ran through brail blocks at the gaff, and then were belayed down to the deck.  But, this would have been overly complicated at this scale, not to mention that multiple pins and cleats would have to be added.  So, I went with these three gasket type lines.  Ultimately, I went with two along the gaff, and moved the remaining line to the throat area of the sail (and not at the throat of the gaff itself).

 

I was also able to get the luff edge furled pretty well at this stage as well.  My plan of not angling the foot worked out pretty well, as you can see that the bulk is greatly reduced at the tack, with most of the bulk at the throat.  In case you're wondering, I'm using napkins under the red clothespins because I've found that the color on these colored clothespins can rub off on the sail cloth 

 

From there, it was a matter of installing the gaff and lacing it to the mast.  As noted above, the lacing for the mast is a bit different than the lacing to the gaff - I think zu Mondfeld has 10 different approaches in his book.  From my research, part of the reason for the different lacing was so that the sail could slide more easily up and down the mast.  I used the mast lacing pattern as in this diagram:

 



 

 

Next I furled the rest of the sail, and added two more brail lines against the mast.  I also added a block and tackle arrangement at the deck as you can see in the third picture below.  I'm also planning on adding the outhauler line, which would run from the tack clew, through a sheeve at the end of the boom, and belayed at a deck cleat at the base of the main mast.  The kit plans have two pairs of deck cleats to be installed at the base of the main mast, with only one pair used, so all I needed to do was add an extra pair of eyebolts to the deck.

 



 

 



 



 

 

They still need some work to try and get in some folds, etc., but overall it came out somewhat ok I think.  I'd also note that in addition to real drivers having brail lines and blocks, there are a number of other inhauler/outhauler lines at the peak, as well as lines at the end of the boom.  For my build, I thought they would add too much complication given the kit's pin and cleat configuration, and I had already installed them per the kit plans before deciding on the furled sails.

 

So that's how I added a furled driver.  There are probably better ways of doing this, but hopefully this helps give people a jump start on how to approach them - I had searched all over the internet for methods on how to install a furled driver, but couldn't find any so hopefully this helps a bit.  

 

Thanks for reading!

A delayed thank you to Maurey and Pavel.  Druxey, the tracks are now installed and, like so many details that we add, are now almost invisible!  But we all know they are there...
 
Beam sets 9 and 10 are in place.  The only unusual items are the opposed lodging knees at the dead flat.  I did not have thick enough wood with me this week to make them, so they will be installed next week.  They will be identical to the ones on the lower deck.  Look at page 10 of this build to see how they are shaped.
 

 

 

Beam set 7 includes the opening for the fore hatch.  These carlings are a little larger than the standard ones.  As I am building the lower deck structures as I move aft, it was time to build the aft sail room.  The fore sail room is one of the small rooms on the port side near beam set 4.  This was a fun little structure to make.  The lateral walls have louvers to allow ventilation into the room.  I do not own a mill so the mortises for the louvers were made with an 11 blade.  On Atalanta, the door into this room is a slider, not a hinged door.  Consequently, the door must be made wider than the opening and it will be on the outside wall of the sail room.  There is a pillar on the inside wall precluding placing the door there.  Not having built a sliding door before, I went over to the local stable and looked at my horse's stall door.  The latch is a L-shaped bolt on the door with a U-shaped piece of metal on the door frame to receive the bolt.  The bolt measured 3" x 4" x 3/8".  This would require making a u-shaped channel 0.01" square.  Needless to say, this is well beyond my skill set so I have a flat piece of metal on the door frame representing it instead.  Decking was placed under the assembly on the starboard side.  The last two pictures show the sail room assembly before and after a coat of finish.
 

 

 

 

 

I have completed and installed the beam arms.  Because of their length, these were made scale 10" thick.  The deck camber was shaped added after they were fit to the beam.  This beam set is just aft of the dead flat, the widest part of the ship.  In order to install the assembly, only one beam arm could be glued in place off the ship.  The other one was temporarily glued and then drilled for the three bolts.  The glue was de-bonded with isopropanol and the bolt holes were used to align the beam arm during the rest of  the assembly's fabrication. 
 

 

 
The hanging knees are now located on the aft faces of the beams.  The pictures were taken before final sanding (I was running out of daylight).  The next project is the upper well.
 

 

 

Some good comments above:
don't bother with a mill, the set up takes more time than using your hands and sanding sticks
don't use rotary drums for final sanding as these create wavy edges
I use sanding sticks with different grits on them, plus a couple of dowels with sand papers glued on
nail files from beauty salons work well for this
 
After you spile your mating line, just sand a little, trial fit the plank, file a little more, fit again, and you will sneak up to a great fit. 
 
Yes, it takes time, so you have to decide what fit and finish you want and the time it takes to get that fit.
 
Duff

Since you already own the ebony, then use it. 
I saw an article about using ebony to make cannon barrels-very nicely done, too.
Just be sure to use a mask and dust collection system as the dust is toxic.
 
Duff

Some good comments above:
don't bother with a mill, the set up takes more time than using your hands and sanding sticks
don't use rotary drums for final sanding as these create wavy edges
I use sanding sticks with different grits on them, plus a couple of dowels with sand papers glued on
nail files from beauty salons work well for this
 
After you spile your mating line, just sand a little, trial fit the plank, file a little more, fit again, and you will sneak up to a great fit. 
 
Yes, it takes time, so you have to decide what fit and finish you want and the time it takes to get that fit.
 
Duff

Good comments by Stockholm Tar~!  There was some variation between countries and centuries but if you make the standing rigging dark and the running rigging hemp color, you will be close.  Ratlines were generally hemp color as ST stated, and the lanyards to the shrouds should be dark but generally not as dark as the shrouds (definitely not white). 
 
Remember, the ship and all of its rigging were exposed to lots of salt water, fresh water, and strong sun light.  The best method our ancesters found for preservation was stockholm tar, a distrilation of pitch from pine trees.  This tar looked like dark kerosene or the fuel oil we use to heat our homes.  It would darken upon expousure to sunlight and also pick up dirt and grime.  So some lines, such as shrouds would have a dark brown color, tending toward black and other lines would vary from light hemp to light brown to darker browns. 
 
And another HUGE subject is color perception and viewing distance.  For another day.............
 
So, you are the artist, and you decide what looks 'right' for your creation.
 
All the best, Duff

Some good comments above:
don't bother with a mill, the set up takes more time than using your hands and sanding sticks
don't use rotary drums for final sanding as these create wavy edges
I use sanding sticks with different grits on them, plus a couple of dowels with sand papers glued on
nail files from beauty salons work well for this
 
After you spile your mating line, just sand a little, trial fit the plank, file a little more, fit again, and you will sneak up to a great fit. 
 
Yes, it takes time, so you have to decide what fit and finish you want and the time it takes to get that fit.
 
Duff

Some good comments above:
don't bother with a mill, the set up takes more time than using your hands and sanding sticks
don't use rotary drums for final sanding as these create wavy edges
I use sanding sticks with different grits on them, plus a couple of dowels with sand papers glued on
nail files from beauty salons work well for this
 
After you spile your mating line, just sand a little, trial fit the plank, file a little more, fit again, and you will sneak up to a great fit. 
 
Yes, it takes time, so you have to decide what fit and finish you want and the time it takes to get that fit.
 
Duff

Tag Max, excellent first attempt at a wooden model ship. 
 
With such a good first model, your confidence will increase and your next model will be more challenging and more rewarding.
 
Thank you for posting, and having the courage to share your work.
 
Am Besten.                      Duff

HI Nenad, to get a percentage between the two plans, draw vertical lines at the stern rabbet and at the bow rabbet on both plans, at the same place on both.  Then divide one by the other to get your percentage increase. 
 
You can double check this percentage by doing another calculation for another known dimension, such as the height of the main mast. 
 
Duff

HI Nenad, to get a percentage between the two plans, draw vertical lines at the stern rabbet and at the bow rabbet on both plans, at the same place on both.  Then divide one by the other to get your percentage increase. 
 
You can double check this percentage by doing another calculation for another known dimension, such as the height of the main mast. 
 
Duff

If imitation is the highest form of praise, then my build of the Vulture fits the description.  Dan, your build log inspired me to start my own, and your log is giving me much continued inspiration and encouragement.  Some say I am an expert builder, some are inpired by my work.  My take is I am an excited intermediate builder pushing into the master arena in some aspects and a rank amature in other areas, such as carving in the round. 
 
Well, your blog is a great memtoring help, and your choice of wood colors (colours) is supurb.  But your artistry in construction is what challenges me to higher levels of fit and finish.  I am enjoying the journy.
 
Thus far, I have finished the keel with staples, the stem, both aprons, and fore deadwood, and the capstan.  Next up is the stern deadwood.  The images from Greenwich show a different pattern than shown by David A. for the Pegasus so some drafting is actrually next.
 
Thank you Dan and keep building and posting.                            Duff

If imitation is the highest form of praise, then my build of the Vulture fits the description.  Dan, your build log inspired me to start my own, and your log is giving me much continued inspiration and encouragement.  Some say I am an expert builder, some are inpired by my work.  My take is I am an excited intermediate builder pushing into the master arena in some aspects and a rank amature in other areas, such as carving in the round. 
 
Well, your blog is a great memtoring help, and your choice of wood colors (colours) is supurb.  But your artistry in construction is what challenges me to higher levels of fit and finish.  I am enjoying the journy.
 
Thus far, I have finished the keel with staples, the stem, both aprons, and fore deadwood, and the capstan.  Next up is the stern deadwood.  The images from Greenwich show a different pattern than shown by David A. for the Pegasus so some drafting is actrually next.
 
Thank you Dan and keep building and posting.                            Duff

I thought I would bump this topic as I have a couple of pics showing an example of what can be done with a miller that would be awkward to do by hand.I made this rather small jig to produce glazing frames for the skylight of a Royal Caroline build(log coming very soon).This jig took literally 10 mins from start to finish.The circular recesses are for glue clearance and the central slot is to provide clearance for tweezers,shown in picture for scale.The boxwood is actually 0.7mm square and the jig enables me to make two at a time.The long sides will be cut after removal from the jig.Tamiya masking tape provides the hitec clamp.
Kind Regards Nigel