minimini

Hello,
 
it is done, the hull is planked! 
It went not all as I aspected, but I'm more or less satisfied with the result. Some putty and sanding will do the rest and paint will cover it later 
 

 

 

 
And thank you all for your likes and comments. 

Hello gentlemen and thank you !

Contrary to what I said, I did not go back to working on La Renommée but I continued on the plate ...

I was not entirely satisfied : the drawing seemed a little bland, banal in its design. So I decided to redo with a more worked drawing, but the problem is that it complicates a lot of cutting ! Even judge yourself :



After studying the feasibility, I relaunched. I will not explain again : I did as the previous time. I simply tape the ebony plate and pear to tape to protect the wood because the cuts will be very "delicate" for some. I took about sixteen hours to cut everything, but I broke less blades: only ten. Here are all my little pieces :



And here are the two plates that I will be able to exploit (the ebony plate will not be) :





A view a little closer where you can see that in places the cuts are at most what I can do :





Finally, after five to six hours of assembly and sanding, the final result on the pear plate :



I find it much better than the previous one and it's her that I'll keep for the showcase ... in 20 years ! (Is not it Chris !)



Will remain to make a small brass frame, but it will be for later, when I know how to braze ...

See you later !

Patrick


 

hi all
I am almost finished with the building plan for the HMDS Perlen , so I decidert to start a buid log for her.
all i need to do is the last few frames and the bow filler pieces , and then I be ready to make wood dust.The drawing is made in autocad
My plan is to start cutting wood when my 3 week vacation start on april 5 




Michael
 

Hello.

hi all
I am almost finished with the building plan for the HMDS Perlen , so I decidert to start a buid log for her.
all i need to do is the last few frames and the bow filler pieces , and then I be ready to make wood dust.The drawing is made in autocad
My plan is to start cutting wood when my 3 week vacation start on april 5 




Michael
 

hi all
I am almost finished with the building plan for the HMDS Perlen , so I decidert to start a buid log for her.
all i need to do is the last few frames and the bow filler pieces , and then I be ready to make wood dust.The drawing is made in autocad
My plan is to start cutting wood when my 3 week vacation start on april 5 




Michael
 

hi all
I am almost finished with the building plan for the HMDS Perlen , so I decidert to start a buid log for her.
all i need to do is the last few frames and the bow filler pieces , and then I be ready to make wood dust.The drawing is made in autocad
My plan is to start cutting wood when my 3 week vacation start on april 5 




Michael
 

hi all
I am almost finished with the building plan for the HMDS Perlen , so I decidert to start a buid log for her.
all i need to do is the last few frames and the bow filler pieces , and then I be ready to make wood dust.The drawing is made in autocad
My plan is to start cutting wood when my 3 week vacation start on april 5 




Michael
 

You certainly nailed that joint Mike. Now go nail that joint.

Thanks, Chuck! Looks like I will have to order more wood to manage the larger scale. 
 
Mark, I too look forward to seeing what advantages the larger scale brings. Right now everything looks huge.
 
I wasn't going to, but I finally decided do the box joint at the lower stem. Guess I was nervous about messing up what was already done. I spent most of the day on it and I'm really glad that it's done.


Mike

just a small reminder we're still alive and kicking. rigging phase draws ever nearer...:-))
 

Thank You very much Messieurs !
 
To conclude this subject, here is as promised the version "Pear and Brass" of my little plate. I like too :







So, it's over with this little project. I'm going back to the ship !


See you next time !


Patrick

Here is a very accurate photo on a neutral background to showcase the yellow cedar stem.  This should give you a really good idea of the grain (lack of) and texture of the wood.  It does not darken along the end grain.  Laser char is at a minimum and this has just a light coat of wipe on poly.  After a few months the color will deepen to nice amber color but it holds a really crisp edge and sands great.  Its a soft wood but finished nothing like a soft wood.  It finishes like a hard wood similar to boxwood in my opinion.  But at a 40% or so discount.
 


 
Chuck

Thanks all,  A display case seems to be an issue with some.  I believe the glass  (if you use glass) is the biggest issue and the biggest cost.  The case as shown cost about $45 in materials and $250 for the glass. All told, it took a week to build (mostly waiting on glue and stain to dry).  After spending 2 + years doing a model, protect and display it properly.

Maury

Mostly finished.  A few more attempts at laying down the anchor cables and anything else anyone sees in the pictures that I may have missed...






 

Thanks for all the support and comments along the way.
Maury
 

Thank you, Nils!
 
All of the gun ports are now faired. I've started work on the stern framing. Again, I won't be using the laser cut kit parts. These six frames were cut from boxwood sheet. The slotted bulkheads allow for accurate placement of each frame, though it was necessary to make very slight adjustments to insure that the aft edges remained parallel to each other. Looking ahead, I can see that it would be easy to shift the frames out of position while adding the lower sills, lintels and Quarter Gallery Framing. I will keep a close eye on this. So far, things look good.

Mike

Thanks, Gary, for the comments. It is kind of hard to realize now, but I learned to draw before CAD was invented or at least used in architecture offices. I am a dinosaur! Gaetan, I haven't checked my family tree lately....🙂
 
It took pretty much all day, but I got the second to last plank in on the wales. It has a very sharp twist athwartships, and a good bend aft. I could not get a clamp on the end for love or money to steam it to shape. And I could not imagine a former that would deal with the springback accurately. So I fayed a double wedge shaped piece onto the inner surface, fitted it to the hull surface, and sanded down the outer surface to parallel. The join is on the under surface of the wale, where hopefully no one will ever look and the black stain will cover it (as long as none of you give away the secret).
 
The final piece is even worse, and I can't visualize yet exactly how it lands and what its aft edge looks like. The second Bellona model shows a sharp corner at the lower, aftmost edge (see photo), but the sheer drawing shows it gracefully rounded. I will put a big block against the location tomorrow and start carving until it looks right.
 
Mark
 
 

Hi Mark. Nice job sir and I must say your  drawing our outstanding. Mine comes out looking like a first grader in art class. Keep up the good work sir. Gary

Thank you, Amalio, for your kind thoughts. I have mostly learned from books and especially from the great modellers on this site. And a lot of mistakes!
 
I am having to carve/shape the last two planks, and while taking a break from this, I looked more carefully at where paint/stain will meet edges and surfaces around the gunports. I have drawn a little sketch to think this through. I was surprised to see that the red paint comes over the top of the spirketting, meeting the black of the spirketting on a scribed line; and where the wales cross the last two gunports, I will have the black of the wales meeting the red of the gunport on the edge between the two, on the same piece of wood. And, the edges of the clear outboard planking will meet red paint on their outside corners at the edge of the port. These are the real test points of whether stain will work, or whether I need to edge these points with paint matched to the red stain elsewhere. Now I know what my test pieces need to look like.
 
Mark
 
 

Hello,
and many thanks for your comments and likes.
 
A short update, just to show you that I'm still working. Now are only 8 strakes left. But it's a boring task, here are no port holes  
 

Thank you very much, Hubac'sHistorian and for all the "Likes".
 
Moving ahead, I added the fixed block supports to the hull. Hard to believe that these would take several hours to make. Holes were drilled with a #70 drill. Once the blocks were in place I was ready to do a second fairing of the hull. One gun port upright loosened early on, so I decided to add basswood filler pieces between the gun ports and bulkhead extensions in order to strengthen the uprights. This will all be hidden later on.

So far I have one side of the hull pretty much done.

 

Mike

Hello friends.
Production of the cannons by the tin process.
Karl
 
P a r t   1 5

Work proceeds on the starboard wales, with only three planks--the most twisty of all--to go. While the uppermost one is steamed and clamped against the hull waiting to dry, here is an update.
 
I have decided to mock up a single gunport and adjacent wales, to see how I am going to manage controlling the red stain around the port, against the plain external planking and the black wales. Like the black wales, I am concerned about the red stain around the gunports running into the grain of the adjacent planks, and only a test will tell me.
 
I did have a little more success using the Transtint black dye mixed into the urethane clear finish. Rather than dealing with a watery liquid like shoe dye or ink, this allows me to pad on a tinted gel. And it has the same level of matt as the uncolored finish. 
 
I will also experiment with airbrushing the blue acrylic paint onto the stem, and also onto the upper works where the friezes will go. That should help me keep a clean line. I am thinking about ordering the Caldercraft Admiralty paint "French Blue", unless someone has had a bad experience with this paint, or thinks it is not the right color. They are supposed to match the colors around Nelson's time, which is almost a half century after the Bellona; I can only assume the blue color would not have changed, for lack of any further evidence. I have only the second Bellona model to go on, for a match.
 
Mark
 

Thank you for the likes and the comments.
 
Meanwhile back in the shipyard, the guns are all installed and have their breeching ropes.  I put in temporarily two markers for the ends of the quarter and fore decks to check for tolerances and to think things through more on the rigging of the mainmast.  So far, so good.  There should be about 12 or 16 eyebolts with blocks for rigging behind the mainmast but that's not going to happen so I'll have to move those lines up to the quarterdeck.   Next up is making and installing the cannon traversing tackle which will be fun but also a pain as the parts are so tiny.   I'm using 5/16 inch Chuck Blocks for these.  I thought about using the 1/8" blocks but they're too tiny for these guns.  Oh well.. maybe for the 4 pounders topside and also for some of the rigging.
 
Here's the photos...
 

Thank you for the kind words, Ken!
 
I have been hard at work finishing up the gun port framing. Lots of different angles along with the usual throwaways. In some areas, like the last few stern ports, compound angles had to be used in order to get a good fit. Having a disc sander with angle adjustments made the work much easier.

The few of the forward ports are set at different angles from the others. These angles where taken from an overhead view on one of the plan sheets. A balsa block was made on the disc sander to match the angle and width needed. It was glued in prior to adding the upright.

On the same port the bulkhead extension was cut away to allow for the proper placement of the aft upright.

Mike