dvm27

Visually it is the run of the sweep and port openings that make or break the hull and your template shows you are right on the money. I look forward to seeing how those difficult cant frames blend into your system.
 
Were you going to add fillers between the keel and bottom floor sweep? I found that expansion and contraction of the hull was constantly fighting me on this.

Finally finished all of the square frames.  That was a good day and a milestone.   I have faired the outside of the hull pretty good but stopped short of the outmost frames because I didnt want to over fair.  Those will be done as I work on the cant frames next.   The forwards cant frames are next.  I also did some preliminary fairing inboard where I could reach.   Just a little to make my life easier when the time comes to do that later.   
 

I basically just repeated the instructions I already mentioned until all the square frames were completed.   It is really important to check the heights and positions of the sweep ports and gun ports as you progress.   I have provided the laser cut parts to simplify that and yes you can measure up from the baseboard to check their heights.   But I was also using a template I created.   I just havent showed it before in my previous updates.   This will be provided on the plans.  This in combination with those other means of measurement will really help ensure that your ports all end up where they are supposed to.   The top of the template aligns with the sheer.   The bottom of the template actually aligns with the top edge of the wales.  The heights are most important for the ports and dont go nuts if your openings are a 1/64" to the left or right.   It will all work out in the end.   You can always fix slight issues before you start planking if you have to do some shifting.  But I highly recommend that you use this template from the start of your framing to check the port positions as you progress.   If you do this before you glue the actual sweep port fillers into position permanently (and the gun port sills),  you can adjust them at that time to ensure the opening are in the correct spots.   Then after you get a match glue them in permanently.  Using the template is really the key to successfully and easily taking the guess-work out of positioning the ports.
 
With any POF project there is a lot going on and a lot of parts.  It is inevitable that some frames may not end up where you want them exactly.   Thats OK and certainly it happened to me.  You may get a slight bend in your frame etc.   Your wood thickness might be a little over or under with your frames.   Maybe a frame isnt perfectly perpendicular to the keel after it settles once glued in.  Creep can be an issue after 20 frames etc.   But regardless of where you frames end up you can easily manipulate the sweep port fillers and sills using the template to get them exactly where you want them.   As you can see the framing looks perfect to the naked eye but I can assure you they are not...the template is your salvation!!!
 



The hull is really shaping up after doing some fairing.   I hope you guys and start to see the shape in the photos I have taken.
 
I will take a few days to a week to get organized before I start on the forward cant frames.   I want to prepare the parts files for final laser cutting up to this point.   What you see in these pictures should constitute the starter package or chapter one.   It will cost more than a typical chapter because there is so much wood and so many parts.   But it makes for a nice start.  I will also prepare all of the carvings for casting before I start on the cant frames so it may be a while before my next update....A couple of weeks maybe.   Any questions or comments are welcomed.  Chapter 2 begins really soon!!!
 

Yes patience is key here...but dedication to excellence is equally required to achieve results such as these!

@AJohnson
@jfhealey
@hollowneck
 
Hello,
Thanks for the positive comments, also for the many LIKES.
That motivates even more.
 
 
Equipping the yards
In the meantime, I have started to fit the ends of the yards with sheaves, over which the sheets and reef tackles are then passed.
In the lower and topsail yards, the holes for sheave were made with the 0.8 mm and 0.6 mm milling cutter, with the exception of the mizzen topsail yard. Brass turned sheaves will be installed there later.
For the topgallant and royal yards with the mizzen topsail yard, the sheaves are only suggested due to the size. The following pictures show the individual processing steps.
 
1. drill holes with 0.5 mm

2. finishing with 0.5 mm wood hollow chisel

3. rounding out with 0.5 mm shank drill bit


The last picture shows the yard arms of the main topsail, fore topsail and mizzen topsail yard.


I think that the "fake" sheaves in the mizzen topsail yard are reasonably convincing. I have also used the same method on many blocks.
See you soon ...
 

I couldn't resist seeing the model so far jump off the drawing board into real life, so I've started to make a basic paper half-hull mockup at 1:96 scale to get a sense of the lines. At the moment there's no lateral support for the frames, so they're all over the place, but an interesting exercise nonetheless, and adding the poop / quarterdeck / upper gun deck will help matters no end. The deck locations are marked with solid lines and waterlines are marked with dashed lines. This half-hull should help me work out how to go about realising the internal structure.
 
Progress so far... 
 

Hi All
 
Yet another update on Le Rochefort.
 
So firstly were the limber boards. These are nice and easy to make 👍  A small strip of wood is placed up against the keelson in my case I cut it 1mm x 0.5mm which did the trick.  Then the actual boards needed a rebate cut into them which I did on the table saw.  Sorry I only took 2 photo's but once made they just slot into place and have no nails as they are supposed to be removeable.


You can see them again fitted in the next photo's.
 
So then I moved onto the hold deck beams - These are very very difficult to get right and its an angle challenge all the way!  Its so easy to start off level and then start to go off of level as you move along the hull.
 
I did make an error as I did not space the forward 4 beams correctly and ended up short on the bulkhead.  Now I could have removed them but I took the easier route and simply added another beam.  There are also 2 half beams that sit next to the pump well and they require a post to support them.  I have also only placed a beam on one side of the mast step as I'm not planking the other side and did not want to loose this detail.
 
Enough words here's the result.








So the next job is to cut the planks for the hold deck and then half timber it so as the beams etc can be seen through the side holes.
 
Cheers Mark
 

What works for me in these situations is to tack the two delicate pieces together or tack the assembly to a ply base using pinpoint drops of yellow glue. It only takes a couple of minute drops to tack the pieces together (like tack welding) and they are easily separated with isopropyl alcohol when finished.

Hello,
it is done, the last rail at the head is ready and fast! At least I have to reinstall the two port lids and then the gratings are the next goal.




 

Just one pic until my last hull update. 
 
This one shows Indy with the channels/knees fitted and also the fenders and side steps. 
 
Ok, back to the cave...
 

First "dry" fitting of frames.  Not glued in place yet, so still a little crooked.  I really like Gary's jig for the final truing of the frames for gluing in place.  Do you mind if I copy it, or at least do something similar?  You must be an Engineer.
 
Next up, the rabbet and timberheads...I'll be back...
 
And I am very thankful for my Dremel tool...  just sayin'

My latest purchase.

0189
Ordered 29th January received 2nd February, excellent service from Seawatch Books.
 
I enjoy reading Greg and David's  books for their own sake, but I may just have secondary reason for buying.
 
 
B.E.

What a bummer.  Glued the plans to the reference board and got ready to cut out the profile when I found out I no longer owned a jigsaw.  I must have donated it before my move east from Western Australia to Canberra......  
I have a small B&D jigsaw on the way so the Reference board will have to wait a little longer
Well in the meantime I finished the Keelsons and fitted them up with the Stemson and Sternsom knee so all is ready to fit after framing is done.
For those wondering (if any) what hand tools I have been using for the Rising Woods and Keelsons, refer attached photo.  I score the lines of the template with a scalpel, including the cross timber lines before using the ultra fine razor saw to cut the depth.  I then chisel the notches with a 4mm chisel (sharpened to 35º) and finish up with a diamond file.   I use the chunkier square (which has a beveled "sharp" blade to check the notches are cut perpendicular to the sides of the embers using the "light behind the straightedge" technique.
 

These Syren mini kit Barrels are 1" tall. ...  and about the correct diameter you need.  Hoops can be painted should you prefer a wood look...if you dont want to make them look like iron.''  They are made from Cedar.  If this meets your criteria.   
 

 

 

 
 

I have never seen deadeyes made in the way you have Bitao. Drilling the holes in the square stock before turning the deadeyes to their final diameter solves several problems inherent in making them. Not only does it remove the need to make a special jig to drill the holes after turning the stock on the lathe but it also insures that the holes are correctly positioned along the equator of the deadeye. As I note Ed made them in the traditional way in his books I assume you have reinvented the wheel, applying the logic you display elsewhere in your construction. Brilliant!

Hello,
the painter is a little out of training! But at least we got it. That's the second try now. The rail ist not fast, first the paint must dry.

A quick update on my progress over the last several days. I’ve been busy cutting and shaping the bulkheads and also the bulkhead former. Following Chuck’s and others advice I did use lite ply for the bulkheads and birch ply for the bulkhead former. So glad I followed the advice! The lite ply sands easy while the birch feels like sanding steel. This will definitely make faring easier. 
 
Below is a shot of the first section of the bulkhead former dry fitted with the bulkheads. They’re still rough but it’s a start. Also a shot of the knee. Still requires final sanding and shaping. I do love the cherry!
 
Thanks for looking and especially for sharing your expertise!
 
Best,
Jim

Wonderful ropework, Monsieur. Are those real splices on the stropped blocks?

Inclement weather today made making up the reference board impossible (not something I can do inside the apartment).  So I cut out all of yesterdays frames, sanded them up and them started on the Keelson components.
Keelsons sections #2, 3, 4 and 6 are all but finished and #6 fitted up to the aft deadwoods and Steronsom Knee (only dry fitted until all the frames are made and installed).  
Keelson sections #1 and 5 are templated, just need scoring and fitting up to the other sections.

Johann
I see you are up to 326,000 views. That does not surprise me. I suspect most of us look on with complete bewilderment  at your skill. Simply marvellous.
All the best 
Fred 

This is a master class in uncommon block building!

Wonderful ropework, Monsieur. Are those real splices on the stropped blocks?

Wonderful ropework, Monsieur. Are those real splices on the stropped blocks?

Well that carving is certainly matches the quality of your work. Congratulations on owning an original Antscherl piece of art!

I am very pleased with the positive reactions to the use of a CNC milling machine in the construction of the model, but to be honest, I myself would need a lot of lessons from more experienced people (at least as far as 3D computer modeling is concerned).
To Vladimir_Wairoa: I use French Sajou threads, which are waxed (at least that's what the manufacturer says), so I don't have so many problems with "hair" on the ropes.
I continue making pendants and lower mast shrouds.

Shooting board using the Lee Valley miniature plane