captainbob

Hooray,  I finally did it.  Try, try again they say, so I did.  I ended up throwing the first three tries away, but I kept the fourth.  The part is the little deck house on the lower rear deck.  You can just see a part of it in one picture, but luckily the plans are of the boat as built in 1903.  Some time ago the deck house was removed and the rear area of the lower deck was enclosed all the other pictures of the Mariefred show her this way.  I just went back and looked at the pictures I posted earlier and they are all of the more recent boat.  So here is a picture of the Mariefred  as I will be building her.
 
Bob
 
 

Lawrence, Popeye, Thanks for the well wishes. 
 
Bob

Lawrence,  thanks for stopping by.  I wish I were farther along but due to chronic family health problems, I only get to work on the boats, 1 - 2 hours a day, if that.  The rest of the time I'm the care giver, cook, House cleaner and . . .  Enough of that.  The Mariefred is a riveted steel boat.  And I like Nils I hope to plate her, something I've never tried before.  The other problem is figuring out what to use for some of the parts.  The upper deck supports and seating frames are 35 X 35 mm angle iron or 1.38" at scale that is .0138.  I have seen other models where they have used larger material for these parts and they end up looking bulky and out of scale.  Ah well that's the kind of problem all model builders go through.  I know, I'll set up a foundry and extrude my own material.  (Pardon the humor).
 
Bob

Thanks, mike for the offer of help.
I agree Kees.  I love the looks of the turn of the century boats.
Dr. Per, I really don't mind others entering information of my log, as long as it is pertinent to the build.
 
Bob

I agree the early boat is what I will be going with.
 
Bob
 

Many thanks Bob and Mark,
for your kind compliments....
 
Also thanks to all who clicked the "like this" button...
 
Bob,
the idea is not bad Bob, look out when I start posting black and white photos of the build you should get suspicious.....
 
Mark,
I have studied the old photos I could find and am thankful for the details I was able to make out. Who knows, perhaps one day there might be a kit of this model, or at least a good plan
 
Nils

Hooray,  I finally did it.  Try, try again they say, so I did.  I ended up throwing the first three tries away, but I kept the fourth.  The part is the little deck house on the lower rear deck.  You can just see a part of it in one picture, but luckily the plans are of the boat as built in 1903.  Some time ago the deck house was removed and the rear area of the lower deck was enclosed all the other pictures of the Mariefred show her this way.  I just went back and looked at the pictures I posted earlier and they are all of the more recent boat.  So here is a picture of the Mariefred  as I will be building her.
 
Bob
 
 

Nils, I wish I could find old pictures of my boat being built as you did of yours.  And then you post them and say they are your build.  I won't tell.  
 
She's a great build with unbelievable detail. 
 
Bob

Hooray,  I finally did it.  Try, try again they say, so I did.  I ended up throwing the first three tries away, but I kept the fourth.  The part is the little deck house on the lower rear deck.  You can just see a part of it in one picture, but luckily the plans are of the boat as built in 1903.  Some time ago the deck house was removed and the rear area of the lower deck was enclosed all the other pictures of the Mariefred show her this way.  I just went back and looked at the pictures I posted earlier and they are all of the more recent boat.  So here is a picture of the Mariefred  as I will be building her.
 
Bob
 
 

There are a lot of you how said you are familiar with the Mariefred and offered to help if I had a problem. This has to do with the drawing not the boat, but I need help. There is a mark that looks like a strange "Z" on one of the drawings.   I think it is for millimeters but I'm not sure.  I have circled several of these symbols on the drawing below.
 
Bob

I agree the early boat is what I will be going with.
 
Bob
 

The boat would not have been built free standing on her keel as we do with our models.  If she were build upside down the frames would have been extended to and toenailed to the floor.  If she were built upright the frames would have been extended to the ceiling of the boat shed or possibly an A frame structure.  Each frame would have been squared and well supported on its own.  Only after she were planked would the frame ends be cut free.
 
Bob 

A  little paint   a little  primary paint and decks

got a chance to do a little bit to this build as well yesterday.   before I get the nets up,  I wanted to finish with the portholes in the cabin behind the helm room.  now that they are fitted,  I can fill them in with window maker and get'em installed.


I had one made for the helm room,  but now I can't find it.   that would be the roof........I made another one.

I'll get some more done soon.  

Hooray,  I finally did it.  Try, try again they say, so I did.  I ended up throwing the first three tries away, but I kept the fourth.  The part is the little deck house on the lower rear deck.  You can just see a part of it in one picture, but luckily the plans are of the boat as built in 1903.  Some time ago the deck house was removed and the rear area of the lower deck was enclosed all the other pictures of the Mariefred show her this way.  I just went back and looked at the pictures I posted earlier and they are all of the more recent boat.  So here is a picture of the Mariefred  as I will be building her.
 
Bob
 
 

The boat would not have been built free standing on her keel as we do with our models.  If she were build upside down the frames would have been extended to and toenailed to the floor.  If she were built upright the frames would have been extended to the ceiling of the boat shed or possibly an A frame structure.  Each frame would have been squared and well supported on its own.  Only after she were planked would the frame ends be cut free.
 
Bob 

Nils, I wish I could find old pictures of my boat being built as you did of yours.  And then you post them and say they are your build.  I won't tell.  
 
She's a great build with unbelievable detail. 
 
Bob

Hooray,  I finally did it.  Try, try again they say, so I did.  I ended up throwing the first three tries away, but I kept the fourth.  The part is the little deck house on the lower rear deck.  You can just see a part of it in one picture, but luckily the plans are of the boat as built in 1903.  Some time ago the deck house was removed and the rear area of the lower deck was enclosed all the other pictures of the Mariefred show her this way.  I just went back and looked at the pictures I posted earlier and they are all of the more recent boat.  So here is a picture of the Mariefred  as I will be building her.
 
Bob
 
 

Lawrence, Popeye, Thanks for the well wishes. 
 
Bob

I thought I'd share a couple of photos of the framing in the actual Kathryn.
 
The first is from the HAER drawings.  The frame pointed to by the number 15 is one of the original frames.  They don't look like the joint was held together by much more than a few bolts, and I would love to know how they built Kathryn.  They must have used a lot of temporary ribbands to hold her together before she was planked.  The mortising of the frames into the keelson also looks very flimsy.
 

 
The following photo is from the recent rebuild that was completed in early fall 2015.  As can be seen in the photo there is a fairly complex (and strong) knee arrangement holding the frames to the keelson, and there are knees installed in the joints of the frames.  I don't think ceiling planking was installed during this rebuild, so these knees didn't interfere with anything.  Since I'm building Kathryn as she was originally built, I can't use any similar structures that might interfere with the internal planking.
 

 
 
 

Build Log 3 – Shaping the hull
 
Hi all –
 
Thanks for the likes and comments, devilishly clever as some of them are. . .
 
And thanks to Druxey, Michael, and especially Bob for helping me with the funnel cages.  It looks like I will be working with Bob to have them printed in 3-D.  I’ll report back on the progress and results. 
 
Leaving aside the issues with the funnel cages, the next step was to shape the hull.   The first problem was that the plans did not have the specifics of the lower deck spaces, just a drawing labeled “steva” or bilge.  It covered much more than the lowest two lifts, so the outline of the hull shape for these lifts was impossible to determine.  I had to go back to my high school class in engineering drawing to plot them.  I took the station lines plan and drew the horizontal lines for the locations of the tops of the first two lifts.
 
Plotting the distances from the centerline for each station gave me the offsets, which were laid out on the bilge plan and joined by smooth curves.  Here they are shown in red for the lower two lifts.
 
The paper lifts were cut out and laid down on basswood planks along a drawn centerline.  They were affixed with spray adhesive for photo mounts, which can be repositioned as needed and then removes easily.  The lifts were cut along the plotted lines with the band saw.  In the lifts plans you can see two black dots along the waterline.  These located holes for the captured “T”-nuts which will be used for the future mounting hardware.  The nut goes into the hole in the lower lift and its flange is then trapped by the upper lift.  The hole in the upper lift allows free movement of the mounting bolt to any depth.
 
At the bow some extra material was left on these lifts to build up the bulb that increases efficiency at high speeds.  Here are the first 4 lifts laid up but before shaping.

 
Above the second lift I made the hollows in the hull.  This was first of all to lighten it a bit, but primarily to give any stresses from wood movement somewhere to go rather than deforming the exterior of the hull.  Here are several lifts in the process.  I first select basswood planks that are half the width of the overall model.  Two of them are clamped side by side and the paper plan glued to them along that line.  A sharp knife is run along the seam and the port and starboard sides are separated.  The lift is sawn along the exterior line, and two large spaces are cut from the middle.  A bar of wood is left amidships for strength.

Sharp eyes will notice that these are not the lifts for the Michelangelo, but reprised from the Doria.  I did not think that I was going to post this portion of the build, since the techniques are the same as on the Doria.  But I decided that to tell a complete story I had to show how the hull was built up.  Unfortunately, I had missed the chance to document the process, so I am using the old illustrations.  
 
As with the Doria, I used black glue to join the lifts.  This is nothing more than a few drops of black acrylic paint mixed into the glue.  It starts out messy, but gives an indelible line between the lifts and, because of the split lifts, along the centerline at the bow and stern.  Here are the first 4 lifts of the Michelangelo glued up.  You can must make out the location of the mounting hole in the aft hollow chamber.
 
Later in the process the hull block is almost complete.  The next lift to be added is cut short at the stern to make the space for the open working deck and fantail deck.  It is also solid, to make a continuous surface that can be sanded to the curve of the sheer.

 
Once the block was fully laid up the shaping process started.  Using powered sanders and grinders the hull was brought to approximate shape.  
 
Where there were concave areas, such as under the stern fairing into the rudder post, or under the flare of the bow, various hand held curved rasps and sanders were used.   Here you can see the benefit of the split lift and black glue.  No matter how much material I removed, the lines always remained.
 
Next time I will cover the final shaping of the hull block and the beginning of planning for the upper decks.
 
As always, be well
 
Dan
 
 

Hi folks
 
A quick update for you all - Shadow's interior accommodation continues to grow, albeit slowly.  So far, I've been concentrating on building the layout of all the cabins located within the Bilge, Lower and Main decks.  Getting these in the correct locations is vital, otherwise, the various staircases connecting the decks would be askew.  Trust me, that would not be a good look!
 
Oh well, there's still heaps of fun to go.
 
Have a great week, everyone!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Michael, John, Richard,
 
Thank you for the comments - much appreciated. Also thank you to all those who have visited my build. I hope you have all found a little to interest you.
 
Bedford,
 
I do love old ships and boat. The heritage fleet looks wonderful.
 
Update:-
 
I have made a start on the cleats 18 in all. I am fabricating them from a kit of parts - each cleat will be made of 9 components - so 18 x 9 = 162 bits in total.
 
The basic design is shown in the sketch.It is important to get all the parts as similar as possible - I find discrepancies show up particularly if you know about them!
 
The foot was made first. I decided the best way to achieve consistency was to shape a brass bar to the plan view of the foot and then to drill the 3 holes. The bar was cut to size and finally shaped with a hand file. The individual feet were then parted off from this with the slitting saw mounted in the mill.
 
The edges of the feet (photo above) still have to have burs removed before polishing. I miscounted and made 38 rather than the 36 required.
 
The top boss is made from .125" OD tube. The tube was accurately drilled with a series of holes along its length. These holes will take the assembly pins. I needed to accurately part off the boss's from the tube. I was concerned that the tube would not stand up to the parting off operation without support. I improvised a steady by supporting the tube from the bore using the back end of a drill held in the tailstock chuck.The bonus advantage of the steady was that the very small boss's were retained on the drill shank.
 
I am using cocktail sticks to make sure the boss's don't go walkabout.
 

Outstanding Nils. Where did you get the giant fake fingers? 

Lawrence, Popeye, Thanks for the well wishes. 
 
Bob