wefalck

Most you ever want to know about gaff rigs is explained in LEATHER, J. (1977): Gaff Rigg.- 272 p., London (Granada Publishing). There are indeed standing and lowering gaffs as Bob explained above. In general, boom-less gaff-sails (as in GREAT EASTERN) were typically rigged with standing gaffs. There would have been no place to store the gaffs in the absence of booms.

These were the forerunners of linoleum - Walton (the linoleum inventor) wanted to make something more durable than these oil-cloths. One can imagine that they wore through quite quickly when walked over with street footwear.

Thank's gentlemen! Actually, this technique of building has been described in the classic works on POF, think Underhill or Curti, I just translated it into different materials and some modern tooling. The copper wire to keep the frames down was an emergency solution, when I realised that the frames would not follow the core due to the slight tumblehome of hull. I first tried thread, but twisting the wire pulled it nice and snug around the template.

Actually, Niels, that's a clever idea to sew on the bolt-rope flat and then to turn over the seam! That strategy could also be used for hand-sewing. To prevent thin fabric from pulling out of shape during machine-sewing, in the past, I glue the fabric on a piece of thin silk-paper, then sewing through it. Afterwards, it could be ripped out without leaving traces. Unfortunately, I will not be able to test your idea in practice, as at the scale I chose to work in, fabric is not suitable for sails.

Apologies to all, who visited over the past three weeks this building log and found that nothing happened. Real life gets in our way quite often and also a bit of travelling for fun … ******************* Jolly-Boat continued The main pieces for the core over which this boat will be constructed as plank-on frame build were laser-cut from Canson-paper and assembled in the manner described previously. The spaces between the bulkheads were filled with hard acrylic foam (Rohacell™) and the foam sanded back to the bulkheads using diamond needle files. Some gaps were filled with putty and then the whole thing soaked in wood sanding-filler to provide a hard surface. Core for the POF construction The keel-stem combination and the transom were also cut out by laser in two copies to be stuck together to arrive at the correct thickness. The back-bone of the jolly-boat A base’board’ for building was cut from the same paper in double and the two copies stuck together for more rigidity. This baseboard had holes laser-cut in for the bent frames in order to give the exact spacing as per plan. The core then was covered in a layer of cling-film to prevent the lacquer to be used during the construction from sticking to the core (hopefully). Using again very thin double-sided mounting tape, the core was stuck to the baseboard. The bent frames were cut using the laser to the required width of 0.2 mm which translates at 1:160 scale to a width of 32 mm. They should be only 0.1 mm thick (15 mm in the original), but the paper is a tad thicker. These frames were inserted into the pre-cut holes and aligned carefully. Then the keel-stem-transom assembly was lacquered into place. It should be noted that there are a couple of cant-frames that but against the keel/stem, rather than running under it. The framed structure It should be noted that this is the reverse construction order compared to the original. The clinker-built boat would be built over a couple of templates, with the planks going in first and the frames bent in afterwards. I chose this method, because having the frames in place is likely to make a stronger shell, when trying to remove it from the core. The garboard-plank installed On any clinker-built boat the garboard-plank is the most difficult to install due to its torsion and bending. Here it was no exception. It needed a fair amount of coercion, but it looks promising. I only hope, that I will be able to remove the shell from the core in the end … To be continued ....

Russel, would you have a picture of the material? Also what scale are you working in. I gather there are various fabric dyes on the market, I suppose (I do not know the US American market). Keep in mind, however, that tanned sails, where not just coloured, but they were smeared with concotions of tallow and yellow/red ochre, so the sails would appear rather smooth. One can simulate this by soaking the material with acrylic paint, so that it covers most of the weave.

Same for me - the other way around

Jewellery-making supply shops normally carry them (or at least list them in their catalogues).

It seems that your head scratching had similar effect as Samantha's twiched nose (remember 'Bewitched' ?): the engines are definitely coming along nicely 👍

Well, good tools in the right hands ... 👍

That is exactly, what I tried to describe earlier on 👍

Yes, recycling material is always a good idea, but PET is not necessarily a good material for making durable models. Also, filament-printing is not the best choice, due to its low resolution in comparison to resin-printers. Making filaments from PET-bottles for printing in fact is only a slight variation of the normal recycling technique for such bottles: they shredded into small pieces, heated and then an extruder forms a new bottle - an extruder is nothing else, but a big printer that prints bottles ...

On colour-coded cordage: I suppose one could imitate that, when you make your own rope. One could add to one of the strands a length of the finest fly-tying yarn that is available in many different colours. Colour-coding, however, seems to be more common in braided rope, than in traditional one.

Nice progress ! As to the anchor-buoy: not sure what the guys then and there would have done, but normally the line would be hitched around the crossing-point between the arms and the shank.

Found a German Wikipedia-article about Baranovsky and learned something about the history of artillery 👍

I fully agree with the previous comments ! I have never heard of the Baranovsky landing-guns. This must be a Russian patent. Do you have more information ont them. Is it really a landing-gun, because the pedestal looks more like a ship's gun? Or is it to be dismounted and then mounted onto a landing-carriage?

I would echo the previous speaker concerning the praise! Didn’t realise before how complex the peak-halliard is. Haven’t seen anything like that before. A couple of bridles yes …

Glad to hear that you are in full swing again !!! Such pre-1880s subjects are rarely seen in railway modelling and there is almost nothing commercial available from that period, I think, regardles of scale/gauge. I am not an active railway modeller, but always thought that something from the 1860 to 1880 period would be nice to create ...

This article provides great insight into the dozen or more layers of paint identified on HMS VICTORY. They also tried to date the various layers, which led to the ship's current paint-scheme, I believe. Vale, B. (2020): Pitch, Paint, Varnish and the Changing Colour Schemes of Royal Navy Warship, 1775-1815: A Summary of Existing Knowlege.- The Mariner’s Mirror, 106(1): 30-42. This may be more reliable than more or less contemporary paintings.

Eric McKee in his 'Working Boats of Britain' looked a bit into the mechanics/ergonomics of rowing and I think gives some dimensions, if I remember correctly, for spacing thwarts, inboard vs. outboard lengths of oars etc. Rowing efficiency, both from the purely physical perspective as well as from the physiological perspective is quite complex. While in the 18th/19th century, of course, there were no scientific studies on this, people had a lot of experience. I gather there are in principle x different rowing arrangements in ships' boats: - one man per thwart with two oars (in small boats only) - one man per thwart with one oar (single bank) - two men per thwart with one oar each (double bank) - four men per thwart with two men per oar (in large boats only) You will need an inboard length of the oar of around 3 feet minimum to give a reasonable fulcrum, whereby one hand is placed on the handle and the other more or less at shoulder width further towards the thole pins. This means that you would need a minimum of around 6 to 7 feet for a double banked boat, while a single-banked one could be as narrow as about 4 feet, with the men off-set to each side of the boat. Faster, lighter boats could have proportionally longer oars with wider space between the thwarts to allow for longer strokes, propelling the boat faster, while heavy working boats would have closer spaced thwarts with shorter oars, as here you need the 'torque' of the oars at slower speed.

Kind of inflatable 'camels' ...

This little ships got very crowded in places, particularly on the foredeck and one wonders how they managed to work them.

Of course, I didn't scroll back through the posts. I hope a good year later the hand is on the mend!

Experience shows, that in the modelling realm, these values are not so important. You will get a feeling for what works. It is different in the professional world, where efficiency is money.

Looks is what counts in the end, what is inside is nobody else's business