wefalck

My personal preference would actually be to use the smallest tool-makers vice available (1" = 25 mm jaw width), as used in EDM to hold electrodes. They sell quite cheaply, I think around 40€/USD and are precision-ground on all surfaces. They have holes tapped M4 for attaching them. You can make yourself two brackets from L-shaped aluminium or steel profile with matching holes at exactly the same height to take M4-screws to go into the tapped holes in the vice. Holes in the other shanks allow you to bolt it down onto the table of the MF70 or wherever. With the help of angle-gauges or a protractor, you can set the desired angle. The advantage of this is that you loose less height under the spindle than with the above type of 'sine-plate' (well, it's not exactly one, but looks a bit like it). I made myself a slightly more elaborate version with the brackets in one piece for easy set-up:

I am not so sure that you will be happy with that road ... these electrical drill are very noise and perhaps run at a too high speed to be save. What do you actually want to do with the lathe. The set-up seems to indicate some work on masts and spars? You can buy on ebay these days lots of bits and pieces to make some make-shift lathes, such as small DC motors together with drill-chuck or ER11 collet chucks, which is a better option. There are also revolving tailstock centres. In fact, both, motors and tailstocks come with brackets to mount on a board or some rail, so that you don't have to worry about height adjustment. One thing I would consider essential is a foot-switch. This is even more important, when you work with sand-paper on your mast, as it can easily get caught and rip on your fingers, or the spar slips out of the tailstock and starts whipping - then you don't want to waste time reaching for the switch on an electrical drill ...

What kind of literature do you have? For ENDEAVOUR, Lever or Steel should give you some indications. This is the link to a 1843 edition of Lever, but I don't think the plates have changed since the 1st edition: https://archive.org/details/youngseaofficers00leve

Here you are, the translatiopn of 2001-II – Sail-plan Note: the ending ‚-en‘ in Danish nouns is the definite article ‚the‘, ‚-er‘ ist he plural form Copie Tegning - Copy of Drawing På seijlere samt dimensioner af mast og rundholter til en af de nye type Konge Jagter, førende 12 stykker 4 lb canoner og 12 lb haubitzer – For the sails and the dimensions of the mast and spars for one of the new type of Royal Yacht, which carries 12 pieces 4 pounder cannon or 12 pounder howitzers. Lang i mellem spündigerne – Length between the rabbets: 64 fod/feet 2 tom./inch Heele Længden Fod – tom Whole length Feet - inches Diameter Tomme - inches Top og nokker Fod – tom Top or end Feet - inches Masten 79-6 20 7-6 Stangen til wandtets plads – topmast down to doubling 21-1 Toppen til boven topsejl – top until above the topsail 19-6 Heele Længden of Stangen – whole length of topmast 35-6 35-6 8 1/2 19-6 Bougsprydet uden for Steven – bowsprit outside stem 29 Inden for ditto – within for the same 10-6 Heele Længden 39-6 39-6 14 Klyverbommen uden for Bougspr. – jib-boom outside stem 16 Within for the same 30 Heele Lngden - Whole length 46 46 7 1/2 1-6 Bommen for stor seijlet – main-sail boom 56 13 1-10 Gaffelen - gaff 30-3 9 1-3 Den mindste gaffel – the shortest gaff 18-9 6 1-3 Bergine raae – bagien yard 42 8 3-6 Topseils raae – top-sail yard 32 6 3-8 Boven topseils raae – topgallant yard 21 4 2-8 Under laeseils spirer – lower studding-sail boom 20-4 4 2-8 Under læseijls raae – lower studding-sail yard 6 2 1/2 2-6 Boven læseijls ditto. – upper studding-sail yard 10-8 2 1/2 1-6 Breedfokke og underlæseijls – main-course and lower studding-sails 27 5 1-6 Driver udlageren eller spiren – driver boom 27 5 1-3 Ditto. Raae – dito. yard 6-10 2 1/2 2-3 NB. 1790 den 26de July blev giordt en tegning til en nye inden klyver, hvis under lig tilligemed revet er truket op prikled med rødt samt bemærked med C+, hvoraf den forfærdiges og som skal væere af den fiineste og beste af dette slags dug. 1790 on the 26th of July a drawing was made for a new jib-sail, on which the reef is drawn dotted with red and marked with C+, from which it is completed and which must be of the finest and best kind of cloth. NB. 1806 den 9de Decbr. blev beordret at forfardige en stor klyver til de nye slags Konge Jagter hvilken er trukken herpå med grøndt tilligemed den befaleder forandring af stor masten samt fokken. 1806 on 9th Dec. was ordered to make a big jib-sail for the new style Royal Jagt which is drawn on here with green as well as the ordered change of the big mast and the jib. Actually, for us Germans written Danish is not that difficult, if one understands some basic differences. There is also GoogleTranslator, but it struggles with the nautical terms and the orthography of old documents has to be adapted to the modern one, e.g. aa now is å, oe is ø, etc. Danish pronounciation is a different matter, of course So it seems that drawing 2001-II is a copy of the original sail-drawing (F146) on which changes made in July 1790 and December 1806 are indicated.

Give me time until tomorrow evening. I manage reasonably well with technical Danish ...

Indeed, these are copies from the old paper registers (Findbuch in German) of the Rigsarkivet. I remember flicking through them, when I visited the archives a couple of times in the late 1990s (during a time when I had a business trip to Copenhagen every other month or so). The most valuable aspect of these register pages probably is, that they list which drawings belong together, because as one can see from the numbers, they may be dispersed throughout the archives. The reason for this (probably) is, that they were organised on a subject-basis. So, for instance, the drawings G44XX and G5XX are anchors, G45XX and G45XX stoves and baking ovens, etc. In fact this is the royal yacht HELLEFLYNDEREN (THE HALIBUT). Not quite a packet, but obviously in the basic structure similar. B156: C192 F149 F151 (not sure it really belongs here, but it shows indeed a deep, narrow course ...) G520a (the ship's boat) G520b (sail-plan for the boat) G1998 G1999 G2000 G2001 G2001 II G4455 G4597

Are you aware of this drawing in the Danish Rigsarkivet (archive of the navy yard): https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/billedviser?epid=17149179#190381,31921412 The drawing is from 1789 and gives the spar dimensions. Their shape then can be reconstructed using the methods of the time.

Nice drawing - one doesn't see hand-drawings that often anymore theses days. The yards actually look quite narrow. The main course (Breitfock) then appears to be rather narrow and heigh. Top- and topgallant-sails look more in the typical proportions.

Looks actually very nice! Ship-shape, Bristol-fashion! For me PVA (white gule) would be the standard glue for wood and I would rather not use contact cement. The latter, due to its high viscosity, sits on the wood surface, while PVA 'keys' into the wood-grain. Such bonds are virtually impossible to separate without ripping the wood into pieces, while bonds with contact cement can be sheared/pried off. One solution to deal with moving parts, such as the roof panels, is to glue them on a piece of silk-paper and once set, to glue the assembly in place. I would also make it oversize and then trim/sand to an exact fit. It's easier to deal with one problem at a time.

It's noise only, I suppose, when you are milling wood at high-speed. When milling metal, you work at much lower speeds and hence less high-pitched noice.

Excellent approach! Some people also glue sections tangentially and cut to form a hexagon, or rather two hexagons offset by 30° for added strength, to better represent full-scale practice.

Indeed, I have been (partly) following Joe Pies' lathe-project. He currently works on the shaper by PM Research. And yes, Stuart's kits in a way are more 'authentic', as they use cast iron, rather than aluminium.

So Stuart dodged making proper thrust-bearings ... normally, the bronze bushings would have tapers turned/ground into them, to which tapers on the spindle would correspond. The double nuts then would take out the end-play from the spindle. I gather this would have been quite a challenge to make and this is 'only' a model anyway. Nice machine machining, as always 👍, btw.

Yep, jigs are a 'professional' approach to making and installing things (though personally I am often too lazy to do it ...). Copper wire is indeed too soft normally to be turned. One can try to strech it to 'work-harden' it by holding one end in a vice and give it a jerk with pliers. However, it general it is difficult to work on leghts greater than two times the diameter. The same applies to most brass. I found that using small brass-nails as starting material helps - the nails are sort of drop-forged and this hardens the material. The general recommendation is to not turn unsupported pieces that overhang more than three times the diameter. With steel you can get away with more, with copper a lot less and brass or wood are somewhere in between. For longer workpieces one needs a dead centre in the tailstock or a fixed steady. A question: did you use the template to form-turn the balustres or just to control the shape, while turning with a normal tool? I am asking, because you seem to have it mounted to the rear.

Topsail-schooners tend to be smaller ships that were sailed with small crews, perhaps a maximum of eight or even less. So the question is, whether they actually bothered with clew- or bunt-lines on topgallants at all, or rather struck them completely, as they may have been set 'flying' anyway. This would depend on time-period and region, of course.

Thanks again to all your encouragement and praise 😇 ********************** Jolly-Boat continued 3 The moment of truth: I removed the copper wire and cut the extended frames with my micro-scissors. Cutting the extended frames with micro-scissors With some cautious rocking of the shell, it came off cleanly. The result is a quite strong hull with the typical exterior and interior look of a clinker-built boat. Unfortunately, some of the frames have moved a bit, but with a drop of acetone this can be fixed. Hull begins to detach from the former I noticed, that the frames did not glue well to the wash-strake, which is actually good, because on the prototype they did not continue to this strake, but ended under an in-whale. I will have find a way to cleanly cut the frames at the appropriate height and then continue with installing the cant-frames, in-whales, floor-boards, seats, etc. Hull successfully taken off the former I am actually wondering now, whether I could have assembled the hull in traditional clinker-fashion, with ‘edge-fastening’ the strakes only and then inserted the frames prototype-fashion afterwards. On the other hand, gluing the stem-keel-combination to the tied-down frames gave a rigid back-bone to work from. So this was probably the best way. To be continued ....

Quite a way of making round-head pins ... I used to chuck up brass pins into my handheld electric drill and shaped the head with files (now I do it on the lathe ...).

Yep, that's going to be a fun project! Making a one-of indeed requires a lot of imagination for set-ups and work-holding. In the factory, they normally used jigs and gang-milled or line-bored matching parts. Time-efficient, when set-up time is bigger than actual machining-time and also ensured that parts often were interchangeable. When turning bushings and the likes, I would only use twist-drills at the very beginning and finish off the hole using a boring bar. This avoids oval, conical and off-centre holes. The boring-bar should be as big as the hole permits to reduce flexing. The effect of flexing can be removed by running the boring-bar through the hole a couple of times without feeding in. Pulleys for flat belts are indeed always domed, one can see that even on my PROXXON bench-drill ...

Talking about 'upgrading': once you have a mill, you can make lot's of accessories yourself, special ones and replicating standard ones to suit your own requirements and ideas ...

If you use a fast-drying and solvent-based lacquer instead of glue, this will solve a lot of the problems, as any knots and hanks can be softened and adjusted just with a drop of solvent ...

I gather, oneself is one's worst critic ... and being critical of one's own work gives one the means to do better next time. The most difficult thing is to overcome one's own impatience to get things done 🤔 My problem often is that I work so slowly (also because 'real' life gets in the way all the time) that I often keep forgetting lessons learnt by the time I should use them again 😬

Both smell very nice and fruity (amyl alcohol) 😇

Thanks gentlemen ! I actually realise, how this not so even planking happened. On one hand, I didn't look too carefully at the running of the planking on the starbord bow-section, being mainly concerned that the planks on both sides meet properly - negligence. On the other hand, the stern area was not fully filled with the core and there was a too large gap between the last frame and the transom - it was difficult to align the planks without pushing them in. At this small size it was also difficult to mark out the runs of the planks beforehand, so I did everything 'by eye'. This got me into trouble in the transition area between the stern-post and the transom, where on this boat there is quite a small-radiused transition curve between both. Perhaps I should have had a narrower plank at that point. For technical reasons the planks are wider than one would have on the prototype: the small scale-overlap was just not achievable, particularly as the edges could not be bevelled. Perhaps working in thin veneer or styrene would be better than using paper, but my cheapo laser-cutter cannot handle such materials, it jut doesn't have enough power for it.

As noted earlier on, old-style nail-polish is essentially the same as what is sold over here in Europe as zapon-lacquer (to protect polished metal surfaces mainly) and I use it on everything.

Jolly-Boat continued 2 Just a short update to show that the planking as such is finished. I am not 100% satisfied with my work. The plank widths could/should have been more equal, but I somehow struggled with the shape of this boat more than with the others. Also, it was easier to glue the planks to the solid core than just to the framework and the edge of the plank underneath. Jolly-boat starboard side – overall length is 36 mm After the planks were on, a doubling for the keel and stem was attached to both side, kind of faking a landing of the planks in a rabbet. Jolly-boat port side There are several little gaps and other imperfections that need to be touched up with a bit of putty, but I will do this only after having separated (hopefully) the boat from the former. The putty is quite brittle and my fall out during the procedure. Looking down onto the planking Once the boat has been released and the frames trimmed back, the wash-strake can be sanded to its final width and shape. Some additional (cant)frames will have to go in before the further fitting out can begin. To be continued ....