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jud

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Everything posted by jud

  1. jud
    Try Masonite, The rough side makes a good cutting surface for leather or other materials that you wish to cut through. The slick side is harder and used for many things including work bench tops that last well, is economical and easy to replace. It would protect your table well, it is about 3/8" thick and with slick side up won't be moving around, use the self healing pad on top, do rough cutting and painting on the Masonite. jud
  2. jud
    When the gun was in battery for firing the free end of the tackle was flaked out alongside and parallel with the gun so it could run during recoil. When the guns were stored in battery or with the port lids closed the tackles were tightened and the rope was up off the deck and as some show it wrapped around the tackle, I don't believe a seaman would do such a thing, suspect it was flaked out alongside the gun then lifted up from the deck and tied to the tightened tackle with small stuff. I would expect all lines and gun tackle to be up off the deck and secured to the gun in a manner it could be released quickly, seamen carried knives so I would expect marlin or other small stuff was used for that. Pure speculation and my experience talking, no historical reference other than the flaking out on deck when in use which references can be found. jud
  3. jud
    Think buying new every now and then is the way to go, although I had a friend, now gone, give his files the acid treatment, he liked the result. Buying new and throwing the old in a box has been the norm around here for a very long time and there must be over 60 pounds of old files, rasps and hoof files collected. Think I will keep them, they don't take up much room and never know when I will need to make a good knife. jud
  4. jud
    Nice job, Hedgehogs look good, heck, it all looks good, better than you would expect from photos. jud
  5. jud
    Me to but I am guessing Halogen Lamp. jud
  6. jud
    Looks a little canted in the photo but it seems to work for you, Like it. Now all you need is a cross slide, wanting more tools never ends? jud
  7. jud
    Shins are sensitive to everything, especially channel iron, barked mine many times in spite of wearing high top boots most of my life, one morning, long after you have given up on their no longer being sensitive, you will realize the pain is gone. Have a set of KOH-O-NOOR RAPIDGRAPH jewel tip from 000 up to 3. Jewel tip for drafting on Mylar, the etching ink we used often was a problem to keep flowing in the smaller pens, have no idea what paint might do to them even with the wire out, rattling that wire is what kept us going. When I needed a circle at a precise location, I used my Drop Bow Compass instead of a circle guide. The Bow Pen side worked well and I suspect that Bow Pens would work better than the expensive, 'and delicate', drafting pens for the needed line work coming up, could probably obtain some at a reasonable price if you don't already have a set, using them would allow for any line width you would need to match existing lines and paint flow I would expect to be much easier to control, also easier to clean. jud
  8. jud
    Not finding fault with what you are doing Nenad, only intended to show the top battens over that large hatch cover for the ramp, had those top battens on the main hatch also, few even mention or know such things existed. The ramp under those covered hatch boards was used so vehicles had a derivable direct route to and from the Main deck. You can see what we called Tortoise Backs for tie down points on the main deck, the tie down points in the tank deck were flush, called Clover Leaves. Those LST's rode different than deep hulled ships, their flat bottoms and blunt bows caused rolling, pounding and lots of spray, jud
  9. jud
    One reason for the top bands of battens. Ramp cover on Forecastle of LST 601. No green water yet.
  10. jud
    My preference including eating is to stand up. Reloading, leather work and tooling, bench work in the shop or working with tools in the shop all are done standing. Reminds me of an old Truck Driver question. What is the first thing a truck driver looks for after leaving his truck? Most look for a place to sit down. Watch, it's true. jud
  11. jud
    Think about placing that project on a cart that can be wheeled around your shop, with shelves for components and paint, also with a light , easily removed and replaced plastic film cover. Park the cart where it is conspicuous but mostly out of the way and start a new build. When it's time, you will be taking her out of mothballs, may do that several times before completion. If you are done with her, attempt to find someone who would like and has the ability to finish her, make her and all her paints etc. a gift to them, may hook another into the hobby. jud
  12. jud
    I would also expect the lower ends to have been back spliced around a thimble and shackled to the turnbuckle or the thimble being part of the turnbuckle. Splices served over with marlin and canvas painted with white lead is what I would expect to see at wire rope ends for standing rigging on that vessel. I don't back splice around here but I do use thimbles and cable clamps to avoid snags, do wrap barb wire back around itself. Problem is, you don't want to replace all standing rigging, so your are kind of stuck with the original model methods. jud
  13. jud
    Thanks Roger for naming the davits, looked them up and found out how they operated, it was bugging me. Looks like an efficient method to pivot the arms with their lower arc engaged with a rack while the hinge pin was moved, one man should have been able to handle each davit. jud
  14. jud
    Hatches were normally covered and battened down regardless of weather. Where better to store the tarps, and wedges than where they are used. Covering the ventilation grates on a warship might wait until water was expected on deck that would overflow the combings or heavy rain was expected and the awnings were not rigged. jud
  15. jud
    In the turret of an 8" gun I once worked in, the powder cars lifting powder from the Lower Powder Rooms up to the Upper Powder Room needed a lot of movement, it was done using hydraulics with a short stroke and multiple sheaves, one set of sheaves at the end of the cylinder and another on the end of the piston rod. A short stroke of the piston would cause a very long movement of the cable and move the powder car from the Lower Powder Room up to the Upper Powder Room. Might find a use for such a setup if a long movement of line is needed, could be used to convert a short movement of sheaves into a long line movement. jud
  16. jud
    Nenad, I deleted my post because I did not wish to sound like I was telling you what to do, and thought that post was borderline after reviewing all of your research. As Mark indicated, there was a cover on top of the hatch boards which were supported by the removable hatch beams. The hatches I have seen, used a couple of layers of old tarps over the hatch boards as pads with a good treated tarp over all. That treated tarp was pulled taught and over the combings, tucked between the hatch combing and the battens which were then wedged in tightly against the hatch combings using the clips and wedges. Sometimes for long spans there were flat iron bands placed over the tarp that were clipped to the hatch and being two pieces were connected with a long bolt which was tightened after the bands were in place. This is how it was done on the 3 LSTs that I rode for the main hatch and the ramp cover on the Forecastle. Only drawing I have is in my Americium Merchant Seaman's Manual. You can see some Battens, Clips and Wedges in a couple of your latest photos. Covering hatches was done this way for a very long time. jud
  17. jud
    When we decommissioned the Helena CA 75, preserving the guns was a big thing. We used cosmoline in two viscosities, one about like 30 wight motor oil and the other grease. What we normally painted was repainted, what we could take apart got the grease and anti moisture paper wrap. surfaces a coat of cosmoline. What surprised me was the hydraulics, we drained all systems, refilled with the cosmoline and ran the system until it was warmed up and then drained it again. Recommissioning those systems was done just by refilling with hydraulic oil and running them. Kind of indicates that plain old motor oil would thin the stuff enough to easily clean it off. When I was transferred to ACB-1's Armory, I found 30 call machine guns sleeved for the NATO 7.62 round and M 1s also sleeved. One day a truck backed up to the door and unloaded 600 M-14's with the selector leviers installed plus the maintenance gear carried in the rifle butt, all wrapped in vapor barrier paper and lots of cosomiline, we used diesel fuel to clean those rifles, about 5 months later it was all done over with M 16s. Every man in that battalion was assigned an M-1, M-14 and an M-16 to qualify with and maintain. Never received a turn in order while I was there. Having experience globing it on and removing it, I like the stuff, it does its job and is not the problem many would like you to believe. jud
  18. jud
    Only if there was less displacement. but the wheels, tires and cart weight are enough to keep the wheels on the bottom. jud
  19. jud
    Cart looks good. One thing I noticed on most of the other carts that you posted was that they used inflatable tires rather than the hard rubber you are using. Those hard tires will not act as shock absorbers and every crack, pebble or rough surface will transfer every jar to your model. I think I would look at some Wheel Barrow replacement wheels that you can buy cheaply at most hardware type outlets. Nothing says that you would need more than 7 or 8 pounds of pressure in them for that load and you could then use the cart on rough ground without jarring you ship model. jud
  20. jud
    http://gingerybookstore.com/MetalWorkingShopFromScrap.html I have the set plus, purchased from Lindsay Books some time ago. Can find some of Lindsay's old books here: http://www.youroldtimebookstore.com/ I bought the series as a set of 7 books, Gingery's Son, is now publishing them and others. There is a lot of info about a whole wide brush of subjects now available from the reprinting of old books plus a lot of how to's from those who have done it. Don't need to make any of the things described, I enjoy just reading them. jud
  21. jud
    You may accomplish what you want by milling two matching and indexed washers. You want the washers to both be in alignment so when you tighten the washers with blade between them there is uniform contact with the canted blade, without that you will have a distorted blade under uneven pressure, that pressure will relieve itself at its own choosing, not yours. Double indexed washers could be made to work, but there are better and safer ways. jud
  22. jud
    I took a look at that model, came to the conclusion that I would leave those covers in a box of parts. They would quickly be destroyed by muzzle blast as they are shown. If they were pulled clear up against the bulwarks and secured or removed from the port they might survive, but no rigging would be needed, because they can be easily reached and handled. I question that they would be used as shown, higher and more substantial bulwarks might have covers with the needed rigging, but not that model. If you choose to use them, just use a short line up over the rail and tie them off so they lie up against the bulwarks when open, throw the block and tackle into a parts box along with the chains. If you choose to rig those port covers as shown, few if any, will question it. jud
  23. jud
    Lacquer is durable, found out how much by using a rattle can of it that I grabbed without looking. Was doing my farming with a D 6 Cat and needed to tighten the tracks. No track wrench around, the adjusting nut was about 3" and was in behind the beam and guards for the tracks, so the wrench needed to have an angle in the handle of about 60°. Had some 1/2" X 3" x 4' spring steel in the Iron pile. Made the wrench, it fit and did the job so I wanted to paint it and grabbed a rattle can, kind of a red tint and was thin, could see the steel through it, checked the can and went ahead and used it up with about 4 or 5 coats. That wrench rattled around the deck of the cat, was thrown around the shop and around rigs, never chipped or lost all of its shine, did get dull and no rust ever got a start over the 5 years I had it before someone stole it. Kept it in mind in case I ever had the need for that kind of durability again, it impressed me. jud
  24. jud
    Don't fret, relax and read a book about Hump Back Whales or something. Hope your pain is gone tomorrow. jud
  25. jud
    May be there as a counter weight but not as an aid to manipulate the yard. Looks like the Yard is made up of two poles lashed and overlapping on the but ends, the small part of the pole on the ends. Wouldn't need a counter weight to lower the aft end of the yard because of the hinge point, but a weight on the end of the aft pole would allow for pulling the sail taught while allowing some buffering action in the yard. jud

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