jud

You could put that cyclone system outside and plumb your shop with PVC pipe like a central vacuum system. It is very dusty here, 'volcanic ash', When I bought my side by side utility vehicle and took it out across some summer fallow, the air cleaner quickly filled, dust got by and damaged the carburetor. It was a design flaw that I thought the factory should have payed for but it was me that bought a new carburetor. The air intake was under the vehicle, right down in the dirt, so I rerouted the intake using exhaust pipe up high and behind the cab. Bought a cyclone pre-cleaner and a larger air cleaner filter and housing. Did that because I had seen those pre-cleaners work for years on farm tractors working in harsh dust and knew they work. Your cyclone would do the same and if sized right, and vented outside, would probably only need a catch container for the solids. Sure beats listening to a shop vac or if not wanting that you could loose a lot of your hearing like I did, that doesn't help a bit either but makes a good story. jud.

You just gave many of us a nice, one stop source of, making for ourselves, successful Third Hand guide and ideas. Thanks ! jud

from mount 46 LST 821, 1967, RVN.. Feel free to use, just indicate source. jud

A signal gun intended to make noise is much different than a crew served defensive gun. Aboard the Helena CA 75 we had two saluting guns mounted in 1961 on the 01 level forward, cheaper to shoot than shooting a Bale of Hay from a 5", bale of hay is what firing a propelling charge only was called. The signal guns installed in 61 were the breach with breach block and a short section of a 40 MM barrel solidly mounted to a triangular stand with no recoil provisions other than mass. Think the signal guns used today on the Constitution use the same breach and barrel setup all placed in the breach end of a couple of cannon. The 40 MM cartridges fired on the Helena used Black Powder. They produced the boom, flash and smoke of the old guns. jud.

Think there was a Mr. Fud who seemed to have a lot of wabbit problems, never heard what became of him. jud

Hi Nenad. The lack of an answer from you is not the reason I will be removing my last two posts. The reason is I thought I was making to many unrelated posts and felt that it would be a curtsy to remove them, I may leave the first one. That pup sure is cute, bet she will be huge. jud

Was told that to house break a dog quickly and easily, that when they piddled on the floor, rub their nose in it and pitch them out the window. The way it turned out for me was, that the dog piddled on the floor and then jumped out the window. :P jud

Those pillars are structural and transfer the load down to the keel. Without them you would not cause sagging unless the decks were way overloaded for the span, but you would be transferring the direction of downward load from the arched beams, that would cause the framing to be pushed apart as the ship worked, because as the arch flattens, the ends of the arched beams get further apart, when it returns it brings the framing with it, stressing every joint it the ship. A simple vertical pillar put in place along the center line would prevent the arch from changing the direction of the load forces. Some of those pillars are installed to be removed when they interfere with some necessary evolution and put back in place when done. jud

Ed's method sounds to be worth adding to the test before a final method is chosen. Michael works fast, this idea might be to late to get into the mix. Isn't Michael doing one heck of a job, I had little hope that the restoration could even be done in a manner worthy of display, I was wrong. Think I will send him my 1974 Mazda Rotary Pickup for restoration. jud

From the Spanker Gaff. The Flag Hoist looks like 1RPV, something under it I can't make out. I read the flag hoist using the international Flag Signals as shown in the 5th edition of the American Merchant Seaman's Manual, mine dated 1965, don't know when they were adapted or if they have been changed jud

Blown up I see a wind blown US Flag. jud

cookie sheet with a felt or something backing might work for you if you can find a space in a cupboard or shelf to slide it into, cupboard would help keep the dust at bay. Lots of stuff in the kitchen that can do double duty. Bread pans filled with charcoal, set alight and dug in under the watering trough keeps the ice at bay. Being in fear of harm, I obtained my bread pans at a yard sale. jud

Probably redraw using a grid for the reference and known distances you can glean from the drawings. I would start with the cross sections at the station lines first. When using a 2D cad program your Y coordinate will be the Z component later so work in the NE quadrant of your grid so all coordinates will be positive. When you get done, your new drawing if created using full scale numbers can printed at any scale you need. I'm doing something similar but took my cad into a surveying software package that will create contour lines. Had a power serge and computer needs some professional help before I can finish. The contour idea I am beginning to wonder if it is worth the trouble, an inexpensive 3 D program may be the wiser choice. You can fuss and rotate, re-scale, stretch or whatever and always wonder, redraw it. jud

Worked on a Troller, ( Cape Race out of Bellingham, Wash. fishing SE Alaska waters ), on deck, was very glad to have a wash down hose for the boat and crew, kept a long handled brush handy with the hose to get the scales and fish slime off the boat and ourselves. I say crew, ours was the Skipper and myself. Wash down hoses are a very important part of the fishing gear. I know, repeating myself about the hose, but the deck won't be complete without one, probably two on this vessel. jud

Think that Dashi used blue masking tape along each end of the treads and determined the desired spacing, picked a logical ending point on the upper hull then stepped off the desired spacing on one of the tapes from that, think her tape was perpendicular to the water line as were the treads so the other tape was stepped off so the top of the treads would be parallel to the water line.. She also marked the tape with prominent and highly visible lines using the stepped off spacing for the top of each tread. She used the tape for horizontal spacing and the lines on the tape to guide the placement of the top of the treads, it is in her log, there are photos and the results were exceptional. Think she used the top of the treads so the lines drawn on the tape and the top of tread would be a straight continuous line when all was in proper alignment.. jud

Have a Sheep's Foot blade on my Stock mans pocket knife that looks like your 1" carving knife, use it often because it is very handy for carving and making groves with the tip, also works well for digging splinters and other things out of your hide. Keep it sharp and don't take to large of a cut and control should be good. Been carrying a stock mans knife with that type of blade since I learned the short comings of my Boy Scout knife as a kid. Enjoy your new developing carving skills. A look at a good leather tooling guide should help in learning depth techniques and decorative curved cuts on uncarved areas. jud

Deck gray, non-skid haze gray, white and olive drab, all on deck, see photo I just added to my #7 post.. jud

And sold by the pound. Bought a pound of shot in the 70's for making 357 snake loads, shared with others and still have most of it. jud

We used non skid patches and some small areas of a sand-paint mix, non-skid, in the travel routes topside and below. This stuff is different, looks like a type of very tough pickup bed coating that became available in the 70's, it required special preparation and was sprayed on. Mark mentioned the crinkle paint, if still available probably your best bet. Maybe a dish or jar lid filled with the desired color paint left out to thicken up might work. When thickened well try applying it off of the model and learn how to apply it to get the results you want, try dabbing, trickling or dripping on or maybe in layers with the last coat a thicker mix trickled from a wide brush. jud. Here is some Deck Gray like the Navy I was in used on all weather decks. The Flight Deck is a Non-Skid Haze Gray, Non-skid because of the grit, 'sandy material', that was in it. Have seen it come directly out of a can and also have seen sand sprinkled on wet paint to make it non-skid. Never did see any of that thick crinkly stuff shown in the above photo except for some similar appearing material sprayed onto pickup beds for protection and not in the same pattern for a very long time. That material looks like it might be a heat resistant material because of it's location on the ship, don't know. I do know it would be a problem to sweep and swab. probably only a scrub brush and a pressure hose could clean it well. Needle guns have been used for years as a method of removing paint and rust, the ones I have used were air powered, only available during yard periods and powered from shore compressors.

Price is only one reason I recommended Masonite. At Home Depot you can buy a 1/8" x 48" x 96 " piece for a little over 8 bucks. jud

Most power tools with any dust handling provisions were designed to be used in combination with a shop vacuum cleaner. I do have a canvas bag on my spark plug cleaner but that bag also holds the blasting grit without exhausting it out of the cleaner, kind of a closed loop system. Might take another look at the instructions for the dust handling feature. jud

Nenad, you have put more into your build log than model building, you have included a substantial part of you and your family's path through life as well. jud

From the net; This piece of alleged history explains that in the olden days of sailing ships, cannon balls were stacked on the decks on brass plates called “monkeys.” The plates had indentions in them that held the balls on the bottoms of the stacks. Brass, however, expands and contracts with the temperature and if it got cold enough, the cannon balls could fall…giving real foundation to the phrase “cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey!” The Truth: According to the United States Navy Historical Center, this is a legend of the sea without historical justification. The center has researched this because of the questions it gets and says the term “brass monkey” and a vulgar reference to the effect of cold on the monkey’s extremities, appears to have originated in the book “Before the Mast” by C.A. Abbey. It was said that it was so cold that it would “freeze the tail off a brass monkey.” The Navy says there is no evidence that the phrase had anything to do with ships or ships with cannon balls.

Doing an exultant job with that model, like the detailing you are doing. That detailing is making her look real. Don't forget a couple of wash down hoses with racks or reels. jud

The Turtle was used against the British during the Revolutionary War in an attempt to break the blockade. The mine could not be attached because the drill would not penetrate the copper bottom, otherwise the sub worked as intended. Don't remember where but there was an earlier under water vessel that used oars. jud