jud
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Everything posted by jud
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If all else fails, make another tab to fit both pieces to provide the needed joint and glue it in place. When that tab has setup, use a fingerboard or other sandpaper device to sand the bad tab away. jud
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Good looking work on your model, gives me some Ideas on how one might go about using similar materials for a build of the Harnett County as she was in RVN. jud -
Don't have a clue but it is kind of traditional today, tradition always has a reason that may have been lost or not really the best way to do it today. I would guess that circumference was easier to measure while determining the strands need to meet specifications at the rope walk. Squeeze a bunch of threads onto a round bundle, pass a line around it and mark it, then removing that line and measuring it would provide a more uniform and repeatable measure than attempting to measure a bundle of threads with calipers. May have nothing to do with it but you asked for thoughts. jud
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Thanks for the tips and cautions Bob. What I had in mind in using that saw was for making repetitive cuts from a large sheet of the proper thickness, such as making hull or deck planks and using a on guide to the right of the blade for controlling width and feeding the stock from the left. Seems like if properly setup would be a time saver over a table saw jig like many use with success. Agree about ripping small standard stock, there are better saws for that. The link is worthy of some further study. jud
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convertion fraction to mm
jud replied to rafterrat_2005's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Being a surveyor I have used decimal feet for years and I use decimal feet when fabricating in the shop. I am forced to switch to decimal inches for small stuff because I haven't found any micrometers and such in decimal feet. Anyway decimals in a base 10 system work well and switching to metric which uses different names for decimal parts of a meter is the same. Besides needing two sets of wrenches to work on my pickup is a pain, think it was around 1975 when we were to switch to the metric system in this country, we were putting decimal feet as we always did after the days of chains and also meters on our plats without problem but we are a nation lacking in the ability to change to things that make sense and do well changing to things that don't. jud. -
convertion fraction to mm
jud replied to rafterrat_2005's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
First do as your computer does, reduce fractions to decimal units, then convert. jud -
"Bingo", dafi ! :) :P jud
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Welding a broken bandsaw blade. Bad idea?
jud replied to qwerty2008's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Don't know what you meant by welding, there are numerous ways, but if you got the job done it must have been one of the methods that work, I would only add that you anneal that part of the blade. Run the thing, you were running it when it broke the first time. People used to know how to do a lot of things that modern man has been taught they are incapable of doing, a little fear also mixing into the teaching provides lots of jobs for people who should be doing something else. Band saw blades are cheaper bought by the roll, cut off what you need and roll your own. jud -
Anyone set up their radial arm saw to cut planks, timbers, etc.? Those saws can cross cut about 18" and can rip the same direction or if longer lengths are needed, can be turned to the rip position to crosscut or rip depending how the wood is arranged on the table. Would need to make a dedicated table but I can see some real advantages to using that saw instead of the table saw for repetitive cuts. jud
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dafi; Thanks, those pages are showing solutions that are in agreement with the laws of physics we are all forced to obey. They show the rigging needed to provided the forces needed to turn a rudder. Those forces are applied in the proper direction and show the needed moment arms in place to replace tillers or sectors. The drags shown are rigged to work and also show how the rudder pendents would have needed to be rigged so they could be used in an emergency steering rig. Notice that the attachment points on the rudder itself or its replacement are not at or close to the rudder post, the idea was to turn the thing, not break it. jud
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Your question indicates that you would be happier if you did some research into what was probably used aboard the actual ship, then obtain or make in scale rope to use for rigging and blocks. Probably not difficult information to obtain, with it you can shop around and purchase or cobble a device together to twist your own rope. Regardless, I would not use the provided rope without checking the scale and if I could match it because doubling the size of the model will result in having only half of the rope that you will need in that kit. jud
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Anyone who has worked with chains to lift with or secure a load can look at the model and see a problem. The chain as rigged will, with movement of the ship and rudder move, the length of the chain hanging from the most inboard ring to the rudder and will slowly cause the remainder of the chain to work over the inboard and center rings until there is enough of a bite inboard to drag the remainder of the chain through the two inboard rings, ending up with small bites on each side of the center ring and one large bite between the inboard ring and rudder. That bite would probably break the inboard ring first or pull it out of the hull, wouldn't take long after the chain was being supported only by the inboard ring and rudder. It would probably continue until all rings were gone, leaving the chain hanging from the rudder until it also failed. As neat as that chain hanging across the stern may be, it is not something that would be done more than once. If you want those chains, then at least lash them at each ring to prevent the chain from shifting. jud
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I would think the main reason for those chains was to tether the rudder if it went adrift and using them for supplementary steering an afterthought. To use those chains to steer by would require lots of rigging, men over the side and men in boats to un-thread the chain and lead it out at a usable angle from the rudder so it could be moved, then rigged with the aid of men still aboard before it could be used as part of a backup steering system,' not a fast evolution'. Unless the chains and rudder were pre-rigged before battle, the battle would be long over and the colors struck before the rudder was back under control if it had been disabled by damage if not pre-rigged. jud
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Do I design my own hull (which I am capable of doing), or do I use the hull plans of Ticonderoga. Do your own design, using the Ticonderoga plans and anything else you can find for guidance, that seems the direction your are leaning and in the end would be happier with. Don't need to reinvent the wheel but you can use your own judgement that way. jud
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Doesn't matter what you are making, having something to see and aim for is a great help setting the standards and quality and you can see what is possible. Great work on this one. Can't help but think that, that driver must have seen something to admire and save in your first efforts, maybe you dropped the seeds for a new modeler.. jud
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CA glue question
jud replied to MikeB4's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
One says in conjunction with, the next says mix, that confuses me. Would appreciate further explanation on the method of using both on the same joint. jud -
I'm thinking it will be a day of celebration, mixed with sadness when you make your final posting and declare the O 19 done. Piet; Don't think that day will come, this is a project that will be with you a long time yet, as it should be. May slow down a bit or even rest a few years while you build something else. The thinking about making improvements probably will never stop. Have you thought about a spring, sear and trigger as part of a launch mechanism for your torpedo tubes? Perhaps some improvements under the Mines so you can drop one as a demonstration, the possibilities are endless. Hope your enjoyment of this labor of love continues for a long time. jud
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Have read that clay ovens were heated by burning wood inside them until the inside of the oven was hot enough to burn the carbon from the lining. When the carbon disappeared the fire was removed, the oven swept out and baking began. Those ovens could bake 4 or 5 batches before cooling to much and they were used in the SW of the US on dry land, I don't have a clue about how they were heated aboard ship. Maybe charcoal was used to heat with, no smoke that way with lots of heat, flame only while starting the burn and when the oven was hot enough, the charcoal could be removed, quenched and reused. Might need to dig up an old ships baker and ask. Charcoal and coke have been used for a long time for heat, forges and smelters. jud
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Used to hear about Strip Ship, it was supposedly done prior to expected battle or operating on a war footing. Was told that all paint was chipped from decks, bulkheads and overheads to reduce fumes and fuel in case of fire. I expect weather decks were left painted and any reflective surfaces were painted or removed. All missile hazards were removed from the ship or stored in a secure locker, larger objects were well secured to the ship structure. Bedding and clothing that, if loose would plug pumps were stored securely. Sounded like a hard way to live to me but I never lived it. During the Cuban Missile crisis I was wondering if the chipping hammers would be coming out and our walk about ceramic coffee mugs, that most PO carried, would be banned. I suppose all combat ships polished their bright work during peaceful times and show the flag trips but it was all painted over or dulled if they expected to be shot at. jud
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What you are doing based on your research is probably getting as close to the true representation of that period in China as any model could. Looks good to me, but board up the front before you put a large engine in it. That lack of a bulwark for the open deck at the bow kind of indicates that they traveled pretty much with the wind and sea. Must have spent a lot of time anchored, waiting for the proper conditions, which were probably favorable only seasonally. The working Sampans and Junks I have seen, usually had a bunch of squid drying on the cabin roof to supplement their mostly rice meals. You going to model some dried squid? jud
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Cutting Lap joints for Deck Furniture, etc.
jud replied to Stuntflyer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Use a square waste piece of wood on the table and against the guide, then place the piece you want to cut along the forward edge and run it through. jud -
Cutting Lap joints for Deck Furniture, etc.
jud replied to Stuntflyer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Looks like you have the tool. The bit would not need to cut the whole area with one pass,multiple passes would work so the bit is not critical. jud -
Cutting Lap joints for Deck Furniture, etc.
jud replied to Stuntflyer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Might build an adjustable jig which holds the saw blade securely. Then devise a sled running in a grove to secure the piece needed to be cut over that stationary saw blade. Either the wood or the saw needs to be stationary but adjustable. The other moved in a repeatable precise manner as far as depth and direction go, hand power could move the traveling part across the other. A router or rotatory tool could replace the saw, then there is the old hand saw and chisel method which has been used with success for century's, your tools would need to be properly sized for that to work well, also magnification would be needed. jud -
Have used a lot of contact cement on leather, it holds well and is flexible when set. I have let one surface dry and left the other piece wet and quickly placed the parts together. That allowed for some shifting of the upper part if needed. Then rubbing like heck with a door knob or a shaped and polished wood rub stick will get a good bond with leather, modified a bit it should also do well for wood. Also have done it by the book on leather and ply board. Doing it that way I inserted wax paper between the pieces which allowed me to shift everything around until all was lined up. When properly placed I slid the paper back a short way and pressed that small uncovered area together and then clamped or rubbed, that small place well. Doing it that way you end up with an anchor to hold the upper piece in position as the wax paper is slowly removed from the joint as you pull the wax paper from the rest of the joint. Wax paper and planking should work well together, but I think I would use the good old white or newer yellow wood glue instead of contact cement. The contact cement I use is Barge Cement, buy it and its thinner by the gallon. jud
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Axes work good on line and you can cut a notch in a tree for falling but it is not quick as anyone who has used an axe to clear windfall from roads. So I would assume that a Topgallant Forecastle is not structural or the saws would be used. Be watching for the answer from someone who knows. jud
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