jud
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Everything posted by jud
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Piet, was there a chance that the little boat was stored upside down with the drain, maybe 2 drains, open. Open drains right side up would take a while to drain the water and might stress the boat. Upside down with the drains open would allow it to be clear of water in a very short time, may even keep pace with the compartment drains. Air would pass through the drain hole much quicker than water. Be interesting to know how water was managed while the boat was stored. jud -
Pat has some good points, the people who designed those ships were not dumb and they had lots of experienced people to obtain details from so they could provide the space needed to work and maintain the guns. Without maintenance which requires access to the guns, there would be no point in having them. Suspect the tiller was as close to the overhead beams as could be, leaving room to use the deck space below it for useful purposes, such as small private living spaces, gun maintenance and the firing of them without undue danger of being crowned by the tiller. Could be that any cabins were forward of the tiller with some more close to the rudder post so the tiller swing would be minimal. Anyone living there would be keeping close watch on the rudder post bloomers. jud
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Without a side view it would be hard to say. What would be reasonable is those pumps that appear to be on the same tube, aren't. Maybe the lower pump is rigged to discharge into a cistern which would be open to drain to the deck if the discharge would drain overboard and closed if the water was needed or wanted to be pumped higher. The upper set of pumps would need to be offset so the same cistern could be used to catch the discharge of the lower and hold it for the upper pump to use it a a water intake. Water is heavy and enough of it riding up in separate moving chambers on the same chain might have a lift height limit or they wanted to be able to occasionally discharge water on both decks.. jud
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Dazzle Camouflage lost it's advantages when radar came into common use, probably around the end of 1943, would be my guess. jud
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Like your knife and glad the re honing turned out will, do that myself. Gloves, no thanks. jud
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Cannon Alignment
jud replied to JohnB40's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
You guys need to check out the. 'HMS Victory Knowledge and Resource Forum'. You will find some horse's mouth Gun Drill writings. It's a good site to explore anyway, it's not restricted to Victory knowledge only. jud -
Don't know what iron you have, but often they have replaceable tips, there so you can replace bad tips and change the tips sizes to match the job. If you have replaceable tips, take it out and clean it, put it back in and have at it. jud
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Heard that the goal was to get her back, or close to, her 1812 appearance. jud
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Cannon Alignment
jud replied to JohnB40's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I have read that the tackles were flaked down so they could run. We used to flake down mooring lines for the same reason, no coils, bundles or drums. jud -
The last illustration of Dafi's post # 25, is an exceptional rig. Chains, Pendents and Block and Tackle could be rigged in a straight forward manner up to the point the tackle block was secured to the spar on each side, now what? Directing two crews on opposite side to work the rudder in a coordinated manner would make a landing officer who controls landings on a carrier scream. Rigging those falls to the wheel would work just fine, if the wheel was gone, using the capstan with the dogs tied up would also allow for a lot of movement in the tackles needed to work the the falls. Didn't pick that up, until tonight, while studying those sketches closer. jud
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Michael Have been using General Cad for a long time now. General Cad is a windows version developed for all the frustrated Generic Cad users so they could upgrade to a Windows environment, it works great and most of the commands are the same as Generic. Think my last Generic Cad was 6.1 or something and I kept using it even after Micro Soft stopped supporting it. Heard about General Cad sometime later, think it was the 3.1 version that I started with, now using 11.1 and an upgrade to 12 is being offered, cheap enough for the up grade I will probably buy it for the additional graphic ability's. Also for a short time, a 3D upgrade is available for $149, haven't made up my mind about purchasing it, would probably be fun and it would open up virtual ship building for me. Might look at their Home page for a lot more info what it does, why it was created and the price. Have mentioned it several times, but price might be a bit much for most. I originally bought Generic because I needed to keep current with what was happening with the increasing use of Cad and had to do it myself because way out here no one was using Cad of any kind, my teacher was the owners manual which became well worn. It was my dime for the software and hardware and Auto Cad was out of my price range was my original reason for the purchase, glad I did. As an old Generic Cad user yourself, a look at their web site might be interesting for you. jud
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Might add to the shop vac system, another home grown system that uses a fan to circulate the air in the room. Place a furnace filter inside a shroud to force the fan discharge or intake through that filter, then clean or change often. That should trap most of the dust that the vacuum can't get. You might even find that running the home grown system, when the vac is not needed, has it's advantages. jud
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Were I you and had the ability to mill, re-saw, sand or plane to thickness, I would be down there looking at billets and blanks to find out what they had and in what form. You probably could find and use a local tree service outfit to obtain some limbs or small trunks of local wood. The wood the bowl makers have is probably seasoned, the tree service wood would not, but you could do that yourself. Take the time to look around and see what is available, bet there is something local you could find in abundance that would work well for you. jud
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The Byrnes Saw "inside and around"
jud replied to nobotch's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The ad var, the measurements taken and the tools indicate that Francis is a machinist. a tool maker or something along those lines. Don't think he is looking for faults, he's having fun using his interests, knowledge and abilities to explore a machine that he admires. Keep it up Francis, I'm enjoying and learning from your journey through a good machine while making it do what you want as you go. So far I see no damage to the machine that arrived at you house not long ago. jud -
The Byrnes Saw "inside and around"
jud replied to nobotch's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Sounds to me like it needs adjusting 0.0072° = 0°00'26", just using the old rifleman's formula, that's almost a half inch at a 100 yards. My total station measures to one second, I can accept a 5' difference between direct and reversed, 26" would indicate the gun needed to be sent in for cleaning and adjustment. That saw has more precision than I would expect, blade distortion because of heat would be greater. Nice dial indicator you have there. Thanks for using it to measure and report on the precision of that saw. Impresses me. jud -
With good insulation, a 40 or maybe even a 20 watt bulb with ventilation you can adjust should be enough heat, want to dry it not burn it. jud
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Thanks Mark. Never looked at the woods on that site, lots of good info about wood that is readily available around here. Nothing about Locust though, think some have used it in models. jud
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Suspect it is similar to all fruit trees, there will be different verities all with a little different characteristic. On the upper place there are domestic apple trees but in every canyon where there is water, even some spring fed trees grow, it is those trees that teach the Mule Deer to walk on their hind feet while picking apples, heck even horses learn that from those wild trees. Would expect the wild trees, especially the Crab Apple to have close dense grain. If you can't build with it, use it in your smoker or add some chips to your charcoal. jud
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The Bitumen Experiment
jud replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Be hard to beat the looks of that 74. jud -
Steve, I also enjoy making knots and hitches, one of the earliest I learned from a BM on the Ammen was the Mast Head Knot, stuck with me, probably because of the beginning overlapping 3 loops and then the use of both hands and your teeth. Think I have used it only once since learning it. jud
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glowing after oil
jud replied to michael101's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
What is done when gun stocks have had to much oil applied over years is to wet the surface with turpentine to thin the surface oil. Leave it on a little while and wipe it off and oil will come with it. Repeat and repeat. You can get almost all of the oil out that way, works because the oil will migrate to the cleaned areas on and near the surface. Might soak the wood in turpentine for a while, maybe you can dilute it neat the surface and it will rise and drive the deeper oil down. The soaking method would not take long to experiment with and do no harm unless you soak plywood, don't do that. I like linseed oil and have used it for years on tool handles, boiled linseed oil with not penetrate far but it will dry faster, raw linseed will penetrate further and dry slower, Going to try the turpentine Linseed mix and see if it penetrates further. Getting back to the problem, I would bet that you are stuck with the soak and wipe method to remove or thin that oil down to the point you can work with the wood. Good Luck. jud -
Amazing detail at this scale, only experience and exceptional patience could have brought that project this far. You have my admiration. jud
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Also makes good long lasting fence posts. Most of the old barb wire fences around here used cedar posts. jud
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Sweep ports help please.
jud replied to aec's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I would expect to find wood liners protected with thick leather, lining those ports, as well as leathers on the sweeps. Be a lot of force at the contact points in the sweep ports when in use. Because of that force, it would not surprise me to find out that there were woven rope fenders used in those ports. Those old boys had no desire to tear up those ports or allow a notch to be gouged out of the oars at the contact points when it could be prevented with some padding, "chafing gear". jud -
Have Turbo Cad, Design Cad and Auto Cad Light on the shelf, they have been there a long time because I did not like the logic and setup methods they used. Was spoiled by Generic Cad as a Dos program and for a long time now have used General Cad,'basically a windows version of Generic Cad". Have not upgraded to the 3D addition yet and may not, do have some fairly useful earthwork commands in my Traverse PC program that may do what I need, If so I could do the layout in COGO then could send to Cad for the polish, easier for me doing it that way. Started using COGO programs on the old IBM 1130, so teaching an old dog, etc might fit. Point is that there are probably many different programs, initially put together for other reasons than working with ships, that can be adapted or used as a rough draft to be polished later in another program, so ask around on other sites and disciplines. jud
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