jud

Janet, Excellent work, close fitting and well detailed. jud

Like your switch, I would never be able to find it , or even know there were lights unless told. jud

Have had Dremel for years. Somewhere I obtained a larger chuck, so have the one that came with it and a larger one. I rarely use the burs, when I do I use the flexible shaft. As was mentioned, if I need anything other than free hand precision a stand and some sort of 3 axis moving table to hold the work would be needed, I don't have a setup like that but do have a mill. Have used the cut off tool the most for rivets and small bolts. Have also used it with small drill bits for making hidden stitching holes for Cheyenne Rolls on saddles, it worked but tended to burn the bits, I went back to using awls. Was told to buy the more expensive dremel that used roller bearings in the motor, bought the 395 type 4 with bearings and it is still running fine, should last me as long as I will be wanting it. jud

I would not use rigging material in the stack, if you are calling a fiber rope rigging. Even wire rope has a fiber core that would burn. Do you have some wire or other stiff material in that kit for this? Those braces are intended to brace the stack but the braces themselves need those spreaders and the bridges between the spreaders that, in effect, increase the diameter of the brace using a much lighter system. Are those braces, attachment points, for the stack stays? Looks like I asked more questions than answering yours, sorry but right or wrong, it took a of figuring it out myself along with time to get to the point where the inside of the cake didn't come out with the toothpick. jud

When making coils or putting rope into buckets so they will run well, its just like your garden hose, first end into the coil must be the first end out or you have a mess, sometimes turning the coils over will allow coiling from the bitter end then turning over to get the running end on top so it can uncoil clean while running, the success of that seems to depends on the type and use of the rope, works best with a long run to the first block . Nice looking Whaleboat, you are doing some impressive detailed work. It's one to keep and display, perhaps a dust cover would be in order. jud

I don't mind the piggy back, can't answer either one anyway. I do believe that sometimes, piggy backs, are good and add to a thread. jud

Piet, still following and admiring your work on that submarine, doing your Dad's Boat proud. jud

Need to send the seller of that saw 20 bucks. That act would be worth much more to you than that 20 bucks could ever be if you keep it in your pocket. jud

Corn Huskers Lotion or use what I do, Bag Balm. Should be able to find it at farm supply outlets and some drug stores around here stock it. A little goes a long way, it works well for problems such as yours. I keep a can handy and depending on what I am doing it often gets used 2 or 3 times a day. jud

Bought a box of them years ago, they were cheep and I intended to use them when greasing wheel bearings and washing parts. Still have all but 3 pair of them, didn't like them to grease bearings with and they melt when washing parts but they do keep well. If I remember correctly they were all left hand gloves, but by turning your right hand over you could get it into one of those things. jud

You have prepared a nice cave to do your work, caves have always been hard to illuminate for delicate work. Would work fine for your forge, the colors of the hot iron would be easy to see, that's the reason the blacksmith forge is in a dark corner. Think I would start over, get a stout but nice table to start with. Then build or obtain some storage cupboards with doors that are a light color to store your stuff. Those walls and ceiling are the right color, use that built in lighting aid and supplement it with some indirect lighting on the wall or ceiling. No offense intended, that is just how I see it. jud

The hooks sound like a good idea, but will an adhesion problem revel itself at a bad moment? The twisted wire method that many use on this site has some real advantages. When it comes to staying where placed, the built in twist in those twisted eyes provide good surfaces for a secure grip. jud

Is the larboard side where the Port is kept? jud

Seem to be many ways to do this, I do see problems with my idea, the biggest one would be the need to have the running rigging free to adjust while the final dry was happening. Perhaps an off ship rig to set the final shape would work, then the mounting on the model and the final adjustment of the running rigging for that sail. Might develop a method that would work but it kind of sounds like it would be re-inventing the wheel. Thanks all, now I know where to look for the ideas I will be needing. jud

Thanks for posting this, I love old machines. That is a neat machine for 1852 and set up to use common power source. It looks like it has power feed and cross feed, Did not see change gears but lots of steps in the visible pulley's. wonder if threads could have been cut in a repeatable manor. Even dividing provisions. Be nice to have the resources to preserve that thing and make it available to others. Takes high skill to take a rough casting, do some rough machining then hand truing and fitting everything. Each part being a unique piece, probably obtain castings for parts but need a good machinist to hand fit any replacements. Not just everyone would be allowed to run it. That machine and a metal Shaper could make almost anything to close tolerances. jud

Triggered by thread of making Victory sails. What I have been running around my head is that when I get to the point of rigging sails on a model I will try the following. Make each sail, set it aside until all are done then soak in starched water. When I pull them all out together they should all be starched uniformly, tug them into rough shape, lay them down flat and let dry dry. Should be able to rig them dry, maybe need a little dampening along one edge or another to make them right. When done rigging, with all the booms and the spars set where wanted with any reefs or brailing in place you are ready for the big blow. A spray bottle of water and a fan are the needed tools, get the fan going at the right speed from the proper direction, then lightly spray each sail until it forms the shape of a sail restrained in the wind. Let the fan run until fully dry and your sails should all have the proper bellow in them. Have never ran across this but I believe it is worth testing, may find it is not the thing to do, but bellow in sails is formed by wind, so might be worth investigating. jud

Plumbers Goop. I have used this stuff for some odd adhesive needs and to my amazement works well. I tried it for gluing corner location markers to surfaces where a nail would not work, attaching with 4 nails was the norm. Those corner Markers were aluminum, I scratched them up on the back and used that Plumbers Goop to attach them to boulders, rock faces and once to a RR tool house made of steel and painted. The one on the tool house went through 2 paintings over the years and was still in place when the shed was replaced. Those markers placed on rock have stayed in place for more than 20 years, the RR shed was replaced after about 15 years. Another application I used it for was to mark a 25 food grid in an area almost totally covered with concrete and to do it fast. A large warehouse used for chemical storage had burned and the grid was needed so the location of sampling could be quickly and accurately determined. Used 2" steel washers stamped with the grid position, marked the proper locations for them using a total station and glued the washers to the concrete as we went using Plumbers goop, they stayed for at least 10 years until the site was clean enough to remove the concrete and to rebuild over the site. Have used that stuff for many things, it is difficult to work with right out of the tube but with the use of toothpicks and a little licking of the forefinger to move the stuff around without sticking it can be used for small fixes. I have kept a tube of that stuff along with a roll of duct tape in my rig, shop and home for years. jud I need to add that, that stuff remains flexible after curing so different rates of expansion and contraction caused by heat, cooling or moisture changes are tolerated without harm to the glue Not affiliated with , below from internet. Product DetailsOriginal formula. Industrial strength. Stronger than glue. A versatile adhesive and sealant that may be used for just about any do-it-yourself plumbing project. Use it to seal leaking pipes, downspouts, gutter seams and porcelain fixtures. Formulated to seal and stick to a wide variety of materials, you'll find it's even stronger than silicone on PVC, tile and garden hoses. Waterproof and flexible when dry, so it won't break or crack under pressure. Use on metal, rubber, vinyl, plastic, glass, wood, canvas, tile, concrete. No mess, easy to use. Permanent, lasting repair. Seal sinks and countertops. Connect PVC, ABS and copper pipes. Reattach loose tiles. Seal around sink traps.

Here we go again, guess I will cross this thread off and stop checking it for items of interest. jud

The dining facilities differences between Officers and Enlisted in military ships have more basses for difference than the separation of position. The enlisted men eat on the State, the Officers pay for their meals and some other amenities. jud

Although on a larger scale, I made a sign on a rough cut 1" X 12" board, with a split in it for character, by using a computer printout and carbon paper to transfer the lines to the wood. Then using a small sharp chisel went around the lettering with a vertical cut, then a beveled cut from outside the letters down to the bottom of the previous cut. That bevel can be used for different effects by how far out it starts from the previous cuts and the cut marks left behind. I Painted the lettering using a sponge and a flat black paint, the whole thing was then treated with linseed oil. Don't know what the board was, it was a piece that had been around for years and may have been Oak, the linseed oil gave it a flat maple appearance with the letters looking like they wee raised lettering. Scaled down and using miniature chisels with a magnifier of some sort, could get you some neat semi 3-D decorations and lettering. You have demonstrated that you have the patience for this kind of meticulous work, Your excellent job of coopering demonstrated that. jud.

popeye2sea; Thanks for that post! It makes perfect sense to me and is something I had suspected was done when making rope. The details of the hows and whens I hadn't worked out. jud.

The destroyer that hit us in 1960 was repaired by using the bow from an identical but uncompleted WW2 destroyer towed to Long Beach from Seattle. Cut the bows off of both at the same frame and used the good bow on the Collett DD 730, don't know what was done with the donor destroyer. Common practice around the world to use undamaged sections to replace damaged sections of ships. Usually only done with naval ships because they have the trained crew in large enough numbers to save their damaged ships. jud

Noticed that, and was thinking about how many candles I could buy instead and be grid free. jud

Can you mount light on a lamp post so the light is reflected from the ceiling and walls instead of mounting for direct lighting . Much better and very few shadows, small, movable arm spot lights could be mounted on each end of the table for a bright concentrated light when and where needed. jud

I'm not sure that running rigging was always left natural. Would not be surprised to find out that a light coat of Stockholm Tar was applied and well worked in or tallow was worked into the fiber rope for lubrication and protection of the fibers making up the rope. Running around blocks, belaying pins, etc there is normal movement of the fibers against each other making up the rope. Even being tensioned and slacked will cause the fibers to rub together. jud