jud

In metal-working so-called 'engineers parallels' are used to raise work in a vice. These are either solid, ground steel-prisms or sort of short lengths of wavy steel sheets. They always come in pairs, ground to exactly the same height. There is also a height-adjustable variant, kind of two connected wedges.
 
A cheap alternative are sections of drill-rod of different diameter and cut to the length of the vice. Drill-rod is ground to specific tolerances, so the diameter is constant, at least for our purposes. For narrow work-pieces use a single one, for wider work-pieces one in front of each vice-jaw.
 
Yet another alternative are 'keys' that are used to 'key' say a gear-wheel onto a shaft. They come in a wide variety of sizes and are ground to certain tolerances, as they have to fit into the key-ways of given tolerances. As a mass-product the are quite cheap and I have pairs of different sizes for my miniature vices.
 
As the jaws in the above vice are made interchangable, one can jaws of different height and perhaps different profile, say to clamp round work. Many engineers vices also have a rabbet cut into the edge of each jaw, so that thin, flat stock can be clamped without parallels.

I wanted a reasonable quality vise for my drill press. I had a cheap Amazon one that I threw away it was so bad. I have one of these:
 

Which is ok but not great. As well as having a small opening size, those enormous mounting slots are useless.
 
You can get really good machinists vises but they're expensive and I'm not milling big chunks of steel.
 
So I decided to make one. 
 


 
I used rods, bearings, and brackets designed for CNC machines on a 1/4" aluminium plate. The body is 9 and 12mm birch ply.
 
I wanted it to look nice because I'm planning on keeping it a long time, so I covered the ply in some old walnut sheet I had. The jaws are bolivian rosewood which is definitely a bit over the top but I had a couple of pieces left over from making a box at Christmas.
 
There are 5/16" holes drilled in the base so I can mount it on my XY table at an accurate 90 degree angle.
 

 
It's heavy and rigid, and I had fun making it. 😀
 

The Romans cast thin sheets of glass unto sand-beds, but the technology was lost during the 'dark ages'. In medieval times glass sheets were produced by either blowing up a bubble of glass, cutting this into half and then spinning it out to a flat disc of up to 4 feet of diameter, or by blowing a glass cylinder into a mould, cutting this cylinder longitudinally, after the top and bottom have been cut off, and then flattening out the cylinder. Since the 17th century flat glass was produced by rolling. In the first half of the 20th century the main method was drawing sheets from a melt, while since the 1960s 'float glass' is the method for mass production, where by the melt is cast into a trough filled with liquid tin - the melt spreads evenly and the solidifying glass is drawn across the trough. Batch production by casting the melt onto troughs with liquid tin was also used at some time.
 
While glass was expensive as such, quite large sheets would have been available in the early years of the 19th century.
 
Of course, glass is prone to shattering due to mechanical impacts or thermal stress. For this reason 'muscovite' was used instead in various applications, e.g. in lanterns, the looking glasses in powder chambers or furnaces (where it is still used). Muscovite is a mineral belonging to the family of mica or sheet-silicates. Its name is derived from Moscow, where it is found in large, easy to cleave crystals. It was traditionally used in that region instead of glass and exported.

Don't think any structural shortages were employed in Fire Ships, they needed to be sea worthy and capable of serving the fleet, sometimes for years. Would expect them to look like any normal vessel of their size and rig. Going aboard and the truth might be seen, expect them to filled with the combustibles of the day, stored for ready use and much of it. It would be the combustibles that set them apart from the rest of the fleet.
 

Had joined the Cub Scouts and really wanted a Boy Scout Knife because it was so neat with all sorts of different blades and I could join in on the toothpick making process of Dad and Grandad as they discussed the world events while soaking up the sun. One night, the dog got into it with a skunk and Dad shot the skunk. The bargain was that if I buried the skunk, I would get the knife. Got the knife, also learned that when burying a skunk, dig the hole before retrieving the skunk.

Exactly! I have seen many beautiful models with their metal work left bright. And if a modeler is going to make a fuss over finishing metal, then to be consistent he/she ought to fuss over accurately painted wood as well; so long, great-looking bare woodwork!
 
To each their own.

Had joined the Cub Scouts and really wanted a Boy Scout Knife because it was so neat with all sorts of different blades and I could join in on the toothpick making process of Dad and Grandad as they discussed the world events while soaking up the sun. One night, the dog got into it with a skunk and Dad shot the skunk. The bargain was that if I buried the skunk, I would get the knife. Got the knife, also learned that when burying a skunk, dig the hole before retrieving the skunk.

Basic rule is: There will be blood.
 
Early tools were my grandfathers workshop where he carved German style coo-coo clocks.  
 
Not I tool, but had one of those early chemistry sets that had all sorts of what are considered "hazardous" chemicals including a few that were radioactive.  One of the "experiments" was making gunpowder as I recall.... big bang in the driveway where I had my 'lab'.   I'm surprised that I've lived as long as I have. 

Had joined the Cub Scouts and really wanted a Boy Scout Knife because it was so neat with all sorts of different blades and I could join in on the toothpick making process of Dad and Grandad as they discussed the world events while soaking up the sun. One night, the dog got into it with a skunk and Dad shot the skunk. The bargain was that if I buried the skunk, I would get the knife. Got the knife, also learned that when burying a skunk, dig the hole before retrieving the skunk.

Had joined the Cub Scouts and really wanted a Boy Scout Knife because it was so neat with all sorts of different blades and I could join in on the toothpick making process of Dad and Grandad as they discussed the world events while soaking up the sun. One night, the dog got into it with a skunk and Dad shot the skunk. The bargain was that if I buried the skunk, I would get the knife. Got the knife, also learned that when burying a skunk, dig the hole before retrieving the skunk.

Had joined the Cub Scouts and really wanted a Boy Scout Knife because it was so neat with all sorts of different blades and I could join in on the toothpick making process of Dad and Grandad as they discussed the world events while soaking up the sun. One night, the dog got into it with a skunk and Dad shot the skunk. The bargain was that if I buried the skunk, I would get the knife. Got the knife, also learned that when burying a skunk, dig the hole before retrieving the skunk.

Have fun building it and take your time.  There are lots of fiddly bits and they will require some light sanding and shaping for the best fit.  I am also looking forward to seeing the cherry version built as I only built the cedar.

I agree with the cumulative measuring idea. One way is to measure from a set point out to every frame. Another way is to draw the frames on a jig at the base of the hull (see below). Either way, every time you place a frame, measure where its face ought to be. If the frame needs thinning down, sand the face on sandpaper glued to a sheet of plywood. That keeps it flat, and you can use calipers to check the thickness of each edge to ensure the two faces are parallel.
In my project below, the frames turned out to be varying thicknesses to keep the whole thing the right length as I added to the hull, but the differences are so slight that you never see the discrepancies.
 
Another subtle opportunity here. In my case, I set a square against the face of the frame. If it was slightly out of square to the base vertically, I used the sandpaper on plywood to gently adjust top or bottom to get everything back into square.
 
Mark
 

The Cat tackle is used to lift the anchor from the water after being hoisted, can also be used to hold and control it while the rigging for stowage was put in place, it is not used to let go by releasing the hook on the Cat Tackle. To be used to let go, a pelican hook or similar device would be needed on the Cat Tackle instead of the hook you find there. The cat tackle is also used to lift the anchor to a quick release fitting attached to the Cat, then removed and two-blocked out of the way while the anchor hangs from the quick release device, when ready, it is let go from there, the cable follows it down being fed by the measured and flaked out cable on deck led through the Hawse Hole. Never used a Cat, but have anchored by tossing the anchor by hand and lifting it the same way, have used a sledge on the pelican hook aboard a Fletcher Class Destroyer to let go, in that case the chain ran out the Hawse, fed around the capstan from the chain locker below. Anchor cables unless very small were not wrapped around the drums of Windless or Capstans and allowed to run freely when letting go, until brakes became the norm to control them, by then it was mostly anchor chain. Good post, just a little more research with some study of the laws of physics needed. Loosening the brake to much and then overheating in an attempt to regain control, modern, but the forces at work are the same and the folly of letting capstans and windlasses to run free can be seen. https://bangshift.com/bangshiftxl/runaway-anchors-watch-what-happens-when-ships-lose-the-handle-on-100-tons-of-iron/

I agree with Kurt - the fan sheet is the way to go for the job you're doing - but Jim is also correct when cutting.
 
I used to be a building designer - when measuring up a building I was taught to do a "continuous measure". Measure everything in relation to a specified "zero" point. So if measuring a wall with windows, doors etc, rather than measure from the corner to the first window, then the width of the window etc etc, I'd hook the tape measure to the corner of the wall and treat that corner as zero, and then all measurements were taken in relation to that point - i.e the distance from the corner to the window, then from the corner to the other side of the window, then from the corner to the next window etc etc.
 
Steven

Jud,
 
Thanks. You are correct that the anchor was not let go from the cat hook! My error!
 
Lever/Blunt "Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor" doesn't describe letting go the anchor. However, it says that when the anchor was catted a rope stopper that was attached on one end to the cathead was looped through the anchor ring and then the free end was taken round a cleat on the cathead and hauled taut, and the end secured to a timber head and stopped.
 
To drop the anchor it was lowered until it is hanging from the cathead by the stopper. The cat tackle could be used to carry the ring while the crown end is being lowered. Then the cat tackle would be slacked to let the stopper hold the anchor. The tackle would be tied back to clear the anchor. To let go the anchor the stopper was freed from the timberhead and allowed to slip off the cleat, allowing the anchor to drop.
 
I will correct the original post.
 
Of course, like everything else in the construction, rigging and operation of wooden sailing ships there was no single "correct" way to do things. There were different techniques used in different parts of the world and at different times. I do not know when pelican hooks were introduced, but I have read somewhere there was at least one other quick release "hook" in use before the pelican hook.
 
I am familiar with modern (20th century) anchor handling:
 
https://www.okieboat.com/Free steaming.html

The model companies for kits do perpetuate a lot of myths and incorrect information.  So,.. caution is advised.

George
Are the pictures of the smaller vessels with the name on the transom  contemporary paintings or modern pictures?   The reason I ask is that other than vessels in modern times, the only time  there would have been the name on the stern of the vessel of the RN  was between 1772 and 1782, started and stopped by order of the Admiralty.   I assume your project is for the schooner Whiting 1805 so she would not have any name on the transom.
Allan

Per Dr PR, they can not be rigged as standing because the boom would hit them.  They must be removable  at the deck level.  The term is a running back stay that is moved prior to a tack or jibe.  That means some sort of tackle to hook and unhook the stay...Not deadeyes.
Maury

How you rig the back stays is another question.
 
Often they were rigged to deadeyes at the aft end of the channels, similar to the shrouds.
 
Sometimes they were rigged as shown in the drawing, but they would interfere with the swing of the boom and mainsail. To get around this the stays were rigged with a gun tackle or luff tackle at the lower end, with the lower block hooked to a ring bolt in the deck close to the bulwark. The back stay on the lee (downwind) side was slacked and unhooked and led forward out of the way of the boom. The windward side stay was tightened to take the strain of the force of the wind on the sail. When the wind shifted (or the vessel maneuvered) the stays were rerigged on the windward side and slacked on the lee side.
 
Same thing on the stays for the fore mast.
 
For more information about schooner rigging and sails see:
 
 

With the exception of sails, name plate and case this build is finished to my best ability and interpretation of contemporary drafts, shipwright practices, drawings/paintings, british naval ship building practices, and Cooks log with special attention to the tiller support built by Cook while in Queen Charlotte Sound New Zealand, and the mizzen driver/spanker boom. I wanted to make sails and even bought the cloth, but unfortunately due to declining health cannot make them, so have run the sail rigging with the exception of bowlines. The nameplate is in the winds and a case at this stage is outside my budget, so a can of compressed air will have to suffice to keep the dust from collecting.
 
I bashed the bouys and in lue of sails the port anchor and pinnace are shown in the process of being raised using relevant fish/yard/hatch and stay tackles. As there were several methods of tackle used to raise the anchor I went with the simplest which was suggested for small ships. Only the pinnace hull was painted white as an experiment to test the effectiveness of white lead paint against sea worm, so the ship and rest of the boat hulls were protected using 'brown stuff' as Cook refers to it.
 
I'd like to thank everyone here for their build logs, support and encouragement in helping me over the 4 years it's taken to complete this build. 
 
Cheers and safe sailing Dashi

We put ours upstairs aboard the Cape Race, a King Salmon Troller in SE Alaska 1965. We jigged for Halibut when Kings
weren't biting.

We put ours upstairs aboard the Cape Race, a King Salmon Troller in SE Alaska 1965. We jigged for Halibut when Kings
weren't biting.

Sorry guys took a long time to finally display the result. Thank you very much for the hints. Tried to do it with the truckers hitch but it was too small to succeed. So I just did some improvisation with square knots and seizings:
 

 

Probably thousands of different ways to secure the small boats different vessels carried as long as they are secure. Stowed with the keels down, I would expect a cover to be secured and vented to protect the interior from water and damage from the sun, would not find it amiss if the keel was up to be covered. There are many hitches using loops to create a tackle to draw tension into ropes, what most call the truckers hitch is one many use today.