jud

Used to hear about Strip Ship, it was supposedly done prior to expected battle or operating on a war footing. Was told that all paint was chipped from decks, bulkheads and overheads to reduce fumes and fuel in case of fire. I expect weather decks were left painted and any reflective surfaces were painted or removed. All missile hazards were removed from the ship or stored in a secure locker, larger objects were well secured to the ship structure. Bedding and clothing that, if loose would plug pumps were stored securely.  Sounded like a hard way to live to me but I never lived it. During the Cuban Missile crisis I was wondering if the chipping hammers would be coming out and our walk about ceramic coffee mugs, that most PO carried,  would be banned. I suppose all combat ships polished their bright work during peaceful times and show the flag trips but it was all painted over or dulled if they expected to be shot at.
jud

Used to hear about Strip Ship, it was supposedly done prior to expected battle or operating on a war footing. Was told that all paint was chipped from decks, bulkheads and overheads to reduce fumes and fuel in case of fire. I expect weather decks were left painted and any reflective surfaces were painted or removed. All missile hazards were removed from the ship or stored in a secure locker, larger objects were well secured to the ship structure. Bedding and clothing that, if loose would plug pumps were stored securely.  Sounded like a hard way to live to me but I never lived it. During the Cuban Missile crisis I was wondering if the chipping hammers would be coming out and our walk about ceramic coffee mugs, that most PO carried,  would be banned. I suppose all combat ships polished their bright work during peaceful times and show the flag trips but it was all painted over or dulled if they expected to be shot at.
jud

Jud, as my junk is an "elitist" one, no squids to dry on her. The dignitary traveling in the ship wouldn´t be pleased by such an insolence, it seems. I would love to build a diorama, though, with some traders and fishers, drying squids and fishes, nets all around. Have found some pictures of something like that:
 

(don´t have the credits for it, but it´s so great a model)

Use a square waste piece of wood on the table and against the guide, then place the piece you want to cut along the forward edge and run it through.
jud

What you are doing based on your research is probably getting as close to the true representation of that period in China as any model could. Looks good to me, but board up the front before you put a large engine in it. That lack of a bulwark for the open deck at the bow kind of indicates that they traveled pretty much with the wind and sea. Must have spent a lot of time anchored, waiting for the proper conditions, which were probably favorable only seasonally. The working Sampans and Junks I have seen, usually had a bunch of squid drying on the cabin roof to supplement their mostly rice meals. You going to model some dried squid?
jud

Christian,
 
I agree with druxey that it is easiest to cut the keel rabbet before framing.  The floor timbers will interfere with the v-gouge.  However, I believe the rabbet can be successfully formed after framing with a scraper like the one below.
 

 
On Young America there is no hogg on the keel so forming the complete rabbet leaves very fragile feathered edges on the upper corners.  I was afraid these would be damaged in later construction, so I only partially cut the rabbet (using this tool) before framing, then went back after framing with the scraper to finish the job.  The scraper rides on the bottom of the keel and needs to be made to clear the floor timbers - like the one in the picture.  I believe this method could be used to form the rabbet after framing.
 
Ed

Yeah, Chuck, I bought one of those microchucks (for those small #'d drill bits) and contrary to the comments about it on AMAZON, mine runs straight and true

Gosh Piet,
 
Your log has reached page 100! A volume packed with all sorts of interesting goodies.
 
Give the medics the run around and look after yourself.   

Thank you all for visiting and your likes and comments.
 
Today was my last BCGI treatment and it threw me for a loop, for some reason.  Hope I'll have a restful night but expect having to get out of bed every hour or so, not much rest.  I'm due a biopsy in 6 weeks, till then things'll be just fine.
 
Hoi Remco, actually I never thought about the KM having a different flag then the Dutch national flag.  I always thought them to be the same.
 
And hoi Sjors, hmmm, you think they are different too?  I guess I'll have look into it like I did with the Geus.
You folks seem to have more confidence in my abilities then I do, but thanks for encouraging me, I'll try my best.
 
Hi Popeye, easy for you to say "piece of cake," you don't have to make one    But, like I mentioned to Sjors, I'll do my best.  Don't want to disappoint all yuns.
 
Hello Gino, thanks for looking up the dimensions and explanation.  There is quite some history attached to that word "Geus."  When I read some of the history I remembered a few things from my school years in Holland.  My model being at a simulated mooring I'll add the Geus to it.  Hey, I have the time and can male flags at my leisure till the cows come home.
 
Cheers to all,
 

I have found a few "dictionary" listings that all state it is a partial weather deck on top of a forecastle superstructure.  Crothers, in his 2013 American-Built Packets and Freighters of the 1850s, refers to this feature in a couple of spaces, including this excerpt -
 
By definition bitts are "sturdy timbers of squared cross section which are ... Where possible they extended from above the topgallant forecastle deck
 
In addition, there is this reference in Parliamentary Papers, House of Commons and Command, Volume 63
http://books.google.com/books?id=SwkTAAAAYAAJ
 
Sir, Glasgow, 16 February 1867.
In obedience to the instructions contained in letter (M. 269.) I beg to append a list, selected from about 100 vessels whose forecastles I have inspected, and the number in which I have taken the liberty to somewhat augment from that required, with the view of fairly representing the condition and size of those in ships of various tonnages, grades, and trades, and as recently found by. me about Glasgow and the Frith of Clyde. The plan I propose is simply to present the ships individually, with notes of the situation, condition, and size of their crewspaces as I saw them, reserving any general remarks to the last, and which arrangement I trust will meet with your approbation.
 
Ship of 744 tons, engaged in the North American timber trade; berths a crew of 16 people under topgallant forecastle, which is open from side to side, and where windlass and chains are wrought. No plugs seen for hawse-holes. No light except from four small dead-lights on top of forecastle deck, about seven inches long by two inches broad ; when windlass and entrance doors are closed no special ventilation. Space, clear of chains, and including bed-berth, about 14 square feet, and 84 cubic feet, per berth.
 
Ship of about 700 tons, engaged in the North American timber trade; berths a crew of 1-2 people under topgallant forecastle, which is open from side to side, and where windlass and chains are wrought; no doors to enclose forecastle above windlass : when ship is at sea only a small breakwater underneath; no dead- lights, no side-lights, no plugs seen for hawse-pipes ; light and air alone by doors at sides, and open spaces above windlass. Must be miserably cold living here in the spring and fall voyages of this trade. Space, berth included, clear of chains and other incumbrances, about 19 square feet, and 117 cubic feet per berth.
 
Continues describing several additional vessels.  The reference is about half way through the document (page 30 of the section titled Merchant Seamen's Accommodations

Reading over this thread, it sure becomes apparent that modelers sure know how to scrounge around the house. One of my favorite places for scrounging used to be the town dump. But now with segregated bins there are less surprises. How do you convince the admiral that all that picking around has a place in the house?
 
S. os

Mark, this micro sander looks a lot like my electric toothbrush sander. Mine costs about $15 versus yours at about $100.
See another post on this subject.

I made up a small sanding disc for my dremel tool. I found 25mm feet for furniture with the nail moulded into the plastic. Sanded the face to a flat and cut stick on sandpaper to fit. Works well in hard to reach places. Also shows the 2mm chisel I made from a spraygun needle.
 

 

Here is a photo I took on the Pride of Baltimore II showing a rope stropped block with a becket. This block has a becket on the bottom, the part with the shackle through it holding it to the ringbolt in the deck.  On your model the becket is larger than the one shown and is the part that is fitted around the boom.
 
The rope grommet which IS the Strop was made large enough to fit around the block AND have enough material left over to form the two seized eyes on either side of the block. In this case the strop was served and leathered to keep it from chafing. The seizings which formed the eyes were done with a lighter colored line and show up well in the photo. Metal thimbles are set into the seized eyes but this is not always done.
 
On your model you will have to make up some sort of loop of line appropriately thick enough for your strop, and long enough to go around the block, the spar on one side of the block and the small eye on the other. Making the seizings to form the eyes should present no trouble.

This is a very good question Rob.Looking at Goodwin's book and pics of the builders model of Egmont(one of the few Navy board models with accurate framing),I am inclined to say that they follow the axis of the cant frames.Do remember though that the ports will appear shorter in the sheer plan as this is a side view,the hull is curving away from you.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Like your switch, I would never be able to find it , or even know there were lights unless told.
jud

Hear ye! Hear ye! News from the realm!!
 
Vivian´s Chinese Junk got new fittings and it´s main mast - read all here!
 
So, as I said, main mast is installed. Some tackles for the rigging are there too - with some small modifications since AL instructions told me to do it differently. Let us go for the pictures.

 

 
Cannons are there too. I was a little skeptical about cannons at first (since I want a ship from about 1420 - 30). Research helped me to decide keeping them - The first guns found in junks wrecks are dated between 1400 - 1420. Laws from 1530+ dictated trade ships could carry 4 mounted guns and an assortment of small guns, for example. As chinese ships were victims of Wako pirates long before, my ship should carry guns for protection from pirate attacks.
 

 
Fixed my anchor, too. I would prefer a different anchor, to be sincere - AL gave me a 2 armed anchor but most of the chinese junk depictions shows 4 armed anchors. As I didn´t find any works regarding the 15th century chinese anchors, I´ll stay with what I´ve got.
 

 

 
And, last but not less important, my battery box for the lighting (part of the switch, too, since to light the cabin one just have to turn the box to one side)
 

 

 

 
[
 
Last picture shows where the box will be. Two copper stripes will be attached to the box botton. Two other stripes will be coming out from the hole fix - as I explained before, to turn on/off you only need to turn the box till it enchase with the copper stripes.
 

I cut bow, counter, and curved deck margin planks from sheet stock using a single edged razor blate and ships curves.
 
Regards,
Pete

You can buy a Dremel, but others on MSW also use Proxxon and Foredom. When purchasing a rotary tool, these are (IMHO) the most important considerations:
 
- Price. Dremel is the cheapest and most available, Foredom costs the most.
 
- Chuck diameter. Dremel has the smallest chuck (which limits the size of the tool you can hold). Foredom has the largest.
 
- Flexible shaft. AN ABSOLUTE NECESSITY IMO. This allows you to hold the tool with a pencil grip and saves you from having to wrestle a large tool when performing delicate work. All three systems have flexible shafts as an accessory. With Foredom, you have a choice of many different shafts and heads.
 
- Tool bits. All accessories are interchangeable between Dremel, Proxxon, and Foredom - with the notable exception that larger diameter shank tools will not fit if your chuck diameter is too small (see point #2). Just because Dremel has the largest and most available selection of tool bits should NOT influence your decision. You can easily use a Dremel tool bit on a Foredom if you so choose.
 
- Smoothness. Proxxon and Foredom are said to be noticably smoother than Dremel with less rotational eccentricity. Important if you are carving very fine work but not so much if you are using your Dremel as a Drum sander or to cut bits of wood off.
 
- Foot pedal. Only Foredom has a variable speed foot pedal. This is important because your tool is not rotating when you apply it to the workpiece - increasing your precision. Both Dremel and Proxxon can be adapted with an "on-off" pedal, but this does not give you the ability to adjust speed using foot pressure.
 
I have a Dremel and I am happy with it. Good luck with your choice.

The strop used on a real rope strop block is made from a rope grommet.
 
 http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=rope%20grommet&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi  
 
which is made by unlaying one strand out of a three stranded rope and then laying this single strand up alongside itself. The result is a rope ring with no visible end. Achieving this in small diameter line used on ship models would be very difficult so you would have to fake this up somehow. I would suggest unlaying each end of some thread of a correct length and gluing the frayed ends alongside the cheek of the block you are using, blending them together from each direction. When its dry you could put on your seizings and form the eyes.

Hi Mark  
 
I will second Nigel's response. While is is a very good read for the newbie it does not answer many of the questions you had and will have as you get into planking
 
 There are some excellent and very knowledgeable responses here. As a newbie or someone who has just finished planking his first hull I remember asking myself many of these same questions. My response may or may not help.
 
The belts not only break up the job in more manageable chunks but prevent your planking from wondering. A small error in the first plank might start a wave or other undesirable effect in all your planks. It can actually compound and grow with each plank. Better that you do groups and stop this. Not one after the other but one "to" the other. These restarts will keep your planking in check. The small corrections needed within a belt will be lost in the overall job. Yes that last plank that you will need to fit between the two belts will be one of the hardest. 
 
The belts also force you to taper your planks correctly. On some ships you will need to combine two planks into one (drop plank) or add a filler. The belts will help you see this early on. There is a rule for how much you should taper a plank and its not to a point so you can shoe horn it in. There is another for the width. 
 
This is what I used 
http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Lining%20Off%20your%20hull%20for%20planking.pdf
 
Well after I tried it my way and failed. I did substitute battens for the string chuck uses but the whole fan thing and marking off the width of each plank in each belt on every bulkhead is the only reason I was able to finish my hull and why I was happy with the result.
 
Here is a link to my instructions and the belts.  
 
http://www.modelexpo-online.com/images/docs/MS2028/MS2028_Rattlesnake-Instructions-Complete.pdf
 
Figure 6 page 10. There is a ton of info on planking too. Its a good "FREE" read for anyone new. 
 
PS: Spiling or cutting planks from a sheet is not that hard to do. You will know if you need to do it when you find yourself bending planks in both directions. 

I have a Craftsman, probably 20-25 years old.  I put a 1/8" Masonite table on it but instead of drilling a hole I used the scroll saw to cut a slot from the back until the table was in place.  Then I used flat head screws to hold it in place.  The opening around the blade is the saw width which is great.  The drawback, which I'm willing to live with, is I have to remove the top to change blades.
 
 
Bob

Beautiful work piet , the Carftsmanship and detail are amazing, Have you thought about fabricating metal parts for people ? I know that I would place an order . I have not seen better metal work on this site , you my friend are truly gifted
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thank you all for dropping in and your likes, it's really encouraging.
 
Didn't do much today.  Just finishing up on one more torpedo, drilled the pilot holes for the railing posts and made a boat hook so I can close the deck launcher doors.
 
Still looking at the numbers on the con and thinking what I should do.  The starboard side is actually not too bad and can be worked with.  Let me try and use a new sharp pair of scissors and cut not that close to the black outline and see how that looks.  The decal material is so fragile.  
Let me do some testing first though.
 
I made a few pics of my new boat hook, hope yuns like it.
 

 

 
Cheers.

Hi Dave
 
Vivian raises a good idea.If you check Alex Banarov's Cumberland build in the scratch section,he demonstrates good use of copper strip 'busbars' to provide a power source to the LEDs at each deck level.In the UK,just google 'the component shop'.They are the main source of LEDs over here for modelmakers.They also give advice on installation and wiring on their website
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel