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Mike Y

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  1. Mike Y
    Incredible! Looking forward for the high quality photos of a finished model, and of course for the exciting build log of the next one
  2. Mike Y
    The best place to buy it in Europe is amazon.de, never saw it cheaper. It is a good sander, very quiet. But mine was with slightly curved table, I replaced it with a wooden one. However, Proxxon support is good, they will ship you another table if that problem will happen for you!
  3. Mike Y
    I truly envy your clamps! Stupid question of the day: how do you hide the holes from the pins? Do you use some filler later on, or they are too small to be visible? P.S.: fly safe!
  4. Mike Y
    Nope, the port side (that would be fully planked) is not shaped or faired at all. I specifically made that last photo to show the comparison The port side transom is currently ugly as hell!
  5. Mike Y
    Finished the most risky part of the fairing - the outer surface of the side that would be opened. Lesson for the future - if you add the bolt simulation - add another millimiter of margin to the frame lines, especially on the sides of the hull (it is unlikely that the bottom would be problematic). Ended up with some really thin sides around the midship: But overall - nothing is screwed up! Just some bolts that are too close to the edge of the frame, but they are not poking to the side! No finish applied, and will sand with fine grits right before finishing - apparently, finger marks are very visible. The transom wings required a lot of shaping! You can compare with the non-faired side on the right. I tried lots of different tools for fairing, but ended up with this set: Cork block shaped to be round on one side, and remains flat on another. Sandpaper - Mirka 120 grit. Semi-flexible yellow thingy was very useful when sanding the bow and transom. Right the exact flex! Grit 90. French curve scraper helped to level the frames, especially in the tight areas. In another areas, miniature chisel was used for that. Surprisingly, block plane was very useful to quickly even out the frames, to later finish it with the sanding block.
  6. Mike Y
    Albert, what is the finish that you are using? It looks like no finish at all?
  7. Mike Y
    Ended up with changing the lamps every time I need to make a photo Bright lamps for modelling, softer ones for photos. Gaetan, thanks for the advice, but it is a living room, so aesthetics matter. I moved from a lamp on the arm to two stationary mounted lamps because they are nicer.. Started the fairing. Some fairies are definitely involved! It is a real miracle, what it does with the hull! You can probably spot the difference between faired bow and other parts of the hull. (Please enlarge the photos to see it better) And a "romantic" version with powerful lamps This is a very first version, the highest grit was only 240. Apparently, accidental finger marks are very visible on the faired frames. Hope to finish the entire hull in a few weeks... Will see how it shines after the high grits
  8. Mike Y
    Mm, very neat indeed! Where do you do sanding? Building a neat model requires lots of sanding, and I can't believe you do it in 30cm from The Towel.
  9. Mike Y
    The "romantic" style of photos is due to the new light setup - two warm spotlights 400lm each installed on both sides of the table: I will probably just use a weaker lamps (200lm opal shade lamp) to take the photos. The hull is covered in layers of the masking tape and is ready for fairing. Getting really used to working on angle, using the vice as a stand to fix the model. Allows for an easy access inside the hull (yes, it is a problem when building upside down), and also easier to work with the sides of the hull. Dreaming about a lifting table!
  10. Mike Y
    Thanks Erik!No new issues, and I unglued one side of every 3th/4th spacer synmetrically on both sides of the hull, so it reduced the hull stress due to shrinkage, and the gaps are now evenly distributed. Should have done that frome the day one Next is the hull fairing with a very small margins for that. Should have added a bigger margin when cutting the frames!
  11. Mike Y
    Hoorray, gunports are done! Practice is the key, the last ports were made twice faster than the first ones I also changed the lights in the room and working table to a warmer ones, and now my camera switched to some sort of warm mode when in auto. Photos look weird now, need to find how to adjust the brightness settings on the camera... The next step should be fun - hull fairing! Really worried I screwed up the frame alignment, and I added complexity when installed that "iron bolts" that hold the "timbers" together. Which gives a smaller margin for fairing - bolts can't become too close to the frame edge.
  12. Mike Y
    They look incredible even when unplanked!
  13. Mike Y
    Whoops! Damn it! Gone shopping for the wine saver vaccuum pump.
  14. Mike Y
    Druxey, Remco, thanks for the knowledge! Does it polymerise as a film on the surface, that could be later removed, or I seriously need to use the wine saver or a gas, otherwise the whole bottle will polymerise?
  15. Mike Y
    Remco, do you mind a question? I read in your log that you used to dilute the tung oil with white spirit, but now you suggest turpentine. What is the difference between that substances for dilution? Is it possible to store a diluted oil in some can for months, or it should be stored in the original form and diluted right before the application?
  16. Mike Y
    Gaetan, you are definitely welcome! It is not intrusive at all. Interesting approach. I miss the idea - what is the benefit of raising the grain?
  17. Mike Y
    Update: got the honing guide from Richard Kell, it is amazing! Can handle my tiiiiiny chisels without any issues
  18. Mike Y
    Thanks for the info, Gaetan! It is definitely a food for thought. While cutting the gunports, tested few finishes. Getting tired of wipe on poly - it is tricky to apply (sticky, needs careful buffing, otherwise the surface is not even). Disclaimer: it is hard to find Minwax here, so I use some local brand. Tried tung oil (locally produced, but well respected brand) and some danish oil: Tung oil seems like the right choice, because it has a boat on the canister, not like some typical "furniture piece" on the can of the danish oil I use pear for the structural element of the hull, not planking. So I was emulating small surface, but with some edges, milled mortises, etc. It was also important to check how it works with the residual glue (if I used too much glue and immediately wiped the excess away). One coat for all finishes, because I do not want to bother with multiple coats for every single part that goes onto the model. Results: Left - wipe on poly, center - tung oil, right - danish oil. Bottom - untreated pear, no finish. Seems like the tung oil is a clear winner. Hard to see on the photo, though.. It is also less glossy than any other finish. It makes pear much darker though, so maybe I need to try to dilute it. Danish oil seems ok, but failed to penetrate the wood properly in the mortises and where the residual glue was present. Also tested how easy it is to scrape away the oil and glue something, just in case I will need to install some part after the finish is already applied. Tung oil and WOP are the winners, because they are thick and do not penetrate the wood deep enough (WOP do not penetrate at all, and Tung oil is easy enough to scrape away). Danish oil is penetrating quite deep, but also possible to scrape away.
  19. Mike Y
    Do not forget The White Towel to make a photos of the model for the log! Heard it brings luck, +3% to the accuracy, -20% chance of measurement mistakes P.S: watching with envy, it is such a joy to have a build buddies building the same ship in parallel!
  20. Mike Y
    Remco, you are also a master of inspiration - for example, that build log was a tipping point for me to start a fully framed model Please keep up the great build! Somebody need to set the bar for the accuracy and quality
  21. Mike Y
    Hmm, have you thought about organising a "tours" inside the ship using that webcamera? You know, kids nowadays stream the live video of them playing games, it would be interesting to see a live stream of your camera walking around the ship! ok, just joking. It is really impressive to see one of that rare ship models, not ship model models. Now a lot of things make sense, after looking on your photos!
  22. Mike Y
    Yep, tried it. But my hunidifier is too small for that livingroom (it is also an openly spaced room connected with other rooms, I hate doors except for bedroom). So I need to invest into some sort of apartment-wide humidifying system. Not on the shopping list so far.. Also, luckily there is no low humidity except winter - the area where Stockholm is located is between the sea and a large lake, so when this water is in the wet form - it is very consistent medium humidity. With a rare and short spikes up when it is really raining. So I guess it is better to just keep it in mind and prepare the "shrinkage" points, so the hull can shrink evenly without any twists or deformations.
  23. Mike Y
    Greg, nice story I guess if you want to make a full set of fillers - some of them should be glued only from the one side. Or buy the humidity controlling equipment? I heard they are widely used by the people who are into wooden musical instruments - guitars, violins, etc. They are a solid objects made out of thin wood, I can only imagine how it will be stressed when humidity changes dramatically. After careful inspection, I found around 8 cracks per side. Made a symmetrical cracks on the other side too, to reduce the twist and relief the stress in the hull. Next time will do it from the very beginning. A single-side glued spacer every 3 frames or so. The whole point of that spacers was to lock frames (avoid twisting and keep a clear 90deg angle) and to have a more solid hull when fairing. Lesson learned! Hope the frames will go back to normal when the winter ends. Reeeally hope so
  24. Mike Y
    Winter finally arrived to Stockholm => humidity dropped => some ugly gaps opened between the frames.. (the spacers are glued on the "dead" part of the frames, that would be cut off when the hull would be removed from the jig. The cutoff marks are visible. This glue mess definitely does not belong to the hull!) These spacers were tightly glued previously. As a result, some frames are twisted, leading to uneven spacing Hope it will return back to norm when humidity will reach the normal levels. I was worried about it, and was thinking of leaving every 4th spacer unglued on one side, to allow for a predictable shrinkage. But discarded this idea as an overthinking. No, it was actually a smart idea. Even with 60cm hull, humidity changes cause problems. On a positive note - it means I have the entire winter to finish the gunports, fair the hull and prepare the keelson. I can't install the deck clamps before the end of the winter, otherwise I will end up fixing that twisted frames permanently. No rush!
  25. Mike Y
    That was a year well spent! The photos are a pleasure to an eye... Such a perfect alignment of the deck elements

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