Mike Y

Love the photo that is 2nd from the bottom. Very elegant lines of the frames, and a beautiful finish! Sweeet!

Allan, Druxey, thanks for the info. Looking forward to see more of that "typically omitted details"

Hmmm, something is fishy, sounds too good to be true! Best wishes, hope this project will go smooth!

Can you tell more about that staples? Never saw them on any model. Why they were used instead of just bolting the false keel to the keel? To make it easier to replace the false keel?

Great news, looking forward for the book! Hope it will come with the plans?

Vernier calipers never lie.. Never trusted that cheap electrical ones, with a two-cent parts they can't be trustworthy. And proper proffessional calipers cost a fortune.

Would be great if you can show some pictures of the process, very curious!

Robin, that is very easy - click on the image to open a fullsize version, right click -> save image, then post it to your thread.

Yaay, finally somebody in Stockholm builds a fully framed model! Let me pull the chair. How about some beer?

Very accurate! What are those tiny round "holes" in the deadwood?

Glenn, your model seems to be built with a much higher accuracy than the original vessel A pleasure to follow. The use of CNC looks very effective! Oh, forgot that you also need to make a CAD model before it is machined How noisy is the cnc cutter? Is it something you can tolerare for a few hours, or you schedule some overnight batch and have a freshly baked parts next morning?

Chris, thanks for the advice, will take a wool. I sanded away most of the old oil. In some spots is penetrated too deep, but it is mostly gone. Waiting for the surface to get dry, and will start over with a proper technology.

May I ask another newbie question? What would you recommend to do between coats to achieve a non-glossy, but nice look, if using diluted tung oil on this wood? 1) Lightly sand with 600 grit sandpaper 2) "Sand" with 0000 steel wool 3) Do nothing

Got it, will do. Thanks for helphing to recover the damage after an idiotic move

Gaetan, thanks for advices. I understand now how much of an idiot I am.. Lesson learned! I really had very little understanding of the mechanics of oil. Already tried regular turpentine as a dilution liquid on some scrap wood - even I can't stand that smell, threw away the entire bottle next morning! Will test white spirit (mineral spirit) solution on a scrap wood today. And for the table top - will just leave it as is. Question: would it be beneficial to sand it with very fine paper from time to time, to smoothen the grain? Or it will cause more harm by removing the top layer that is drying?

Bill, thanks for the info. I really missed this one when selecting the planer.It is, however, too large. Proxxon has no competition when it comes to small tools designed for people who work in a tiny room corners. If you have a full scale workshop - buying proxxon planer or bandsaw makes little sense, there are better options if you can afford a larger size.

Hm, I was thinking that new coat (diluted one) will dry in like 48hrs, on top of the old coat. Does not matter if the old coat inside the wood will not dry. Because how I understood it - pure oil dries forever, but diluted dries faster. Or I got it wrong?

Chris, Buce, thank you for the feedback. I will mix pure oil 50/50 and apply a new coat, which should finally dry in a reasonable time.

I have a bottle of the "Danish Oil", this one: http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/rustins-danish-oil It contains "purified Tung Oil, vegetable oils and resins." Does it make sense to apply it on top of tung oil, as a second coat? Danish oil should dry much faster. Or it is better to avoid mixing different oils together?

Jaager, thanks for the detailed explanation! No, I used a pure oil. Understood the idea, will wait more, if it will fail to dry - will follow your instructions on removal and re-application. Oil might not be not ideal for the working surface, but I really do not want to have a glossy look of the typical varnishes, that create a transparent layer on top of the wood. Probably will end up sanding and re-finishing the table top once or twice a year, it is fine.

Thanke for the info! I am not sure this counts as coats, was just evenly distributing oil to dry spots, and occasionally adding more oil it if some spots that were too dry. Just fed the wood with oil. So it was like one big coat..

Made a support jig to install the hull in an upright position. It is a first time I see it this way, very, khm, unusual! Like it is upside down. Or, hold on, right side up? Very confusing after working on the inverted hull for little bit more than 1.5 years.. The jig is simple and surprisingly stable. I was planning to add a diagonal braces to it to increase stability, but looks like it is not necessary. Now it even looks much bigger when stored right side up Ok, so now I do not have any more excuses, time to fair the inside of the hull. See you in a few dusty weeks!

I made myself a nice table - sold beech table top, sanded to remove the old finish and applied tung oil instead. Used a microfiber cloth to rub it into the wood and evenly distribute. Few coats were applied same evening - it was a continuous process, because pieces of wood in the tabletop had different grain direction, so some were absorbing the oil pretty fast, while others did it slower. Next morning I rubbed the excess oil with a paper cloth and left it to dry for a week. 10 days passed - it is still not fully dry. It looks pretty dry, but if you touch it - you feel that the surface is oily. This is how it looks right now: The oil I have is a local brand, not something well known. Bought in a fancy boutique though, which sells only high quality stuff The can says that this is a pure oil and it dries "extremely slow" if not diluted with turpentine or some other oil: It is too late to dilute Will read the instructions next time! The same oil works fine on a model scale, but it feels different with small parts of a full size table top. What should I do? * Just wait more and it will finally dry? Should I wipe it with a paper cloth or sand it lightly, or it is better to let it untouched for a while? * Apply some wipe-on poly on top of it? I am afraid that this will cause a mix of poly with half-dry oil, which might behave unpredictably. * Apply another coat of oil? But if the current surface can't polymerize, new coat will not dry either. Would appreciate any advices!

I can't imagine how a long piece of wood will ever be perfectly straight. 1mm deviation sounds perfectly normal in my opinion. Wait for the humidity change, it will warp much more Are you going to screw it to the building board? If yes - might be reasonable to add another hole or two and attach it to the build board while pressing something straight against it, to ensure alignment.

Christian, it is only cut on the side that would be fully planked. No rabbet on the other side, for aesthetics reasons.