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Mike Y

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  1. Mike Y
    Hm! Amazing bending, will try that as well. Maybe ebony wales are not as messy as I thought? Two cents about pink ivory: Stiles and Bates does not ship wood outside UK. I bought it here instead: http://www.exotichardwoodsukltd.com Not sure about US, but shipping to Sweden was not a problem. Got two big fat billets, they are amazing!
  2. Mike Y
    Thanks John! Finishing the planks with some sandpaper, mini scrapers and xacto blades. The mini scrapers were surprisingly useful! Covered the frames with the masking tape to avoid scratching them accidentally: Final result, with tung oil applied. The exposed side of the hull would be left as is (with deck framing, of course), things like breasthook, fore and mizen mast steps, etc - would be cut in half with one side omitted. That is to avoid obstructing the view through the hull. If something will need to be glued to the finished side - will use treenails and/or monofilament. Or epoxy. But hope it will not happen
  3. Mike Y
    Fantastic!
  4. Mike Y
    Shaping the clamp ends in situ was a bit tricky.. Transom wings were shaped with sandpaper and scrapers and finished with xacto blade: Result: It is still clear that transom wings are made out of two pieces, and the gap between the pieces is still visible, but it is kind of better than it was. Sigh... Will do better transom on the next model! Luckily it looks good from the outside, and the inner part of the transom would be barely visible under three layers of deck framing
  5. Mike Y
    As a software engineer myself, I know this saying, it is too true and people hit assumption-based problems too frequently...
  6. Mike Y
    Just realised that I screwed up the transom a bit. For some reason I thought that inner planking and deck clamps in that area fully cover the transom wings. Also, I was expecting some sort of stemson, but at the stern. I thought that inner planking will terminate there. Well, I was wrong. TFFM and other build logs indicate that transom wings are just left open, and inner planking terminates on the rear-most cant frame. Like here, on Remco's Kingfisher: Or on Albert's Naiad: And here is what I have. Nevermind the glue spots on the clamps, they are not sanded or scraped yet, but you can see that they expect to terminate on some big timber in the middle of the transom (which, apparenly, does not exist), and the wings are ugly on the right side, because I was going to hide them under planking. Whoops! Will try to reduce the impact of the screw-up by shaping the transom wings carefully, so they will look nicer. Shaping them in such confined space is a challenge, but seems like I have no choice. Luckily, that area would be barely visible under multiple layers of deck framing, but it is not an excuse to leave it in such a bad shape!
  7. Mike Y
    Found a nice color scheme in this beautiful cross section, made by Maurys. Darker wood above wales (looks like pear), lighter below. With a subtle colour variation where lighter pear goes lower, and darker pear is higher. Or it is just a lighting? Anyway: Link to his build log with the rest of the photos: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/513-echo-cross-section-by-maury/ Another one is Naiad by Albert. Careful mix of lighter and darker pear in the deck framing: The full log: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3443-hms-naiad-1797-by-albert-148
  8. Mike Y
    It is sort of possible, but hard to maintain a consistent feed, also for really thin planks the lack of zero insert is a problem. So do not expect a great result, be ready to straighten the plank edge by sanding or planing.
  9. Mike Y
    Marcus, thanks for the info! Suspected the same, but now I know for sure
  10. Mike Y
    She looks great! Interesting implementation of the "floating" type of display. I was thinking about hanging the model on a thin and transparent fishing line, mounted to the top part of the display case. Have you tried something similar?
  11. Mike Y
    How does the pink ivory change its colour over time? Is it getting darker and becomes browni-sh? Ordered a few pieces from Stiles and Bates to try
  12. Mike Y
    Carl, yes, even this "drill" is better than manual drilling. It is just a pity that there is nothing in the market for a proper quality micro drills. All drills I found while googling were similar hand-made "cheap motor + chuck + few wires" construction. I love working with good tools, this one is not pleasure to work with, but it gets the job done. Many thanks to Gaetan, now my livingroom corner looks even more like a shipyard, with the Arsenal de Toulon drawing on a wall
  13. Mike Y
    Really admire your courage to do the reconstruction instead of saying "meh, will make it right on a next model"! Now it would be definitely right.
  14. Mike Y
    Hope you loved the Arkowood wood? The stash looks nice! Very impressive tiling, was not expecting it to be so red. Where have you got it? Also arkowood?
  15. Mike Y
    Thanks for the nice words and likes! That really helps to find more modelling time Finally got the micro-drill working, so now the clamp installation goes faster. After marking the treenail locations with the pencil, they are accentuated with the scriber (I know, bad use for the scriber): That is required to avoid the drill wobble, it is not very balanced (chinese crap): And then install the boxwood treenails - these ones are not just for looks, they are injected at least few millimiters into the frames and glued, hope that will make a strong bond between frames and deck clamps, to avoid the hull cracking and twisting during the dry winter months.
  16. Mike Y
    Forward and aft frames could be bolted safer by drilling shallow holes from each side independently, after initial pre-beveling. That is easier to do comparing with a full-depth single hole. Nobody wll find out that you have two short bolts instead of a single long one Did it on my model, worked like a charm, even on a really bevelled frames.
  17. Mike Y
    Hoorray! This is a major milestone indeed! One thing about the finish - if you use oil, be ready that it might sip through the frame and end up on the inner side as well. Testing on a few scrap frames would be useful It sounds impossible, especially with grain running along the futtock, but happened for me. If that will be the case for your finish as well - probably better to apply it after gluing in the deck clamps and inner planking, if you plan any?
  18. Mike Y
    I was wrapping both adjacent frames with multiple layers of the masking tape to protect it when cutting (gunports, in my case). It took a lot of time, but was working efficiently enough, because the blade slipped a few times.
  19. Mike Y
    That cutoff process looks scary, but seems like you did it without any mistakes! Looks great!
  20. Mike Y
    Carl, now I have the goal!
  21. Mike Y
    My modelling progress is quite slow, barely find few hours per week to work on it. Still installing various deck clamps: Using scrapers to make the final shaping of the clamps when they are already installed. Straight or curved, depending on a section: And a final polish with a straight xacto blade, it barely removes any material, but leaves a nice finish, better than sandpaper for such tight locations:
  22. Mike Y
    Quite unexpectedly ended up in Hamburg maritime museum. Unfortunately I only had 45min to visit it, and the museum is big - 9 floors of maritime history! It was also full of great models, including Oliver Cromwell! I was really surprised to see it in the museum, considering a very boring history behind that ship. The model is good, seems to be done in a fully framed manner, but 95% planked. There is a small opening in the bottom of the hull, which is barely visible. Sorry for the poor photo quality, museum has a soft light which makes it cozy, but hard to make photos (especially on a phone) Decor:
  23. Mike Y
    True, and it is also a matter of taste - some prefer to master the hand tools, some prefer to use mills for such precision tasks Well, this sort of task does not require any milling experience - it was my first thing to cut, worked like a charm from the first attempt.Just fix the plank in the vice, follow the steps, re-measure twice if not sure, done! No intricate setup.
  24. Mike Y
    This is where mill is very handy - I can easilly make joints on 2-8 planks at the same time (assuming the same thickness), and they would be perfectly fit in all dimensions, tight and with a consistent angle. It takes about 8-10min for the batch including the setup. And no need for the careful markup - just make sure that all planks have the same angle in the mill vice. Without mill, it was a lot of fitting, took around 30min per joint (instead of 10 for a number of joints), and it was hard to get tight fit on a thick stock. Cutting perfect scarfs by hand is a skill to learn, doing it with a mill is a simple procedure that does not require any skill. Easy-peasy! One of the biggest reasons that pushed me to buy the mill. Here are some basic pictures of the process. I use a wooden "template" that fits under the planks inside the vice to ensure correct angle.
  25. Mike Y
    Impressive model! Still trying to figure out how the mold would be disassembled. Very nice wood as well!

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