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Everything posted by Mike Y
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ancre le rochefort by cabrapente
Mike Y replied to cabrapente's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Very tiny margin for the frame fairing, hope you will not force yourself into the corner... Watching with interest! -
Work station clutter
Mike Y replied to Senior ole salt's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Jim, thanks for the info! Never heard about this system. Looks very interesting! Now I am seriously thinking about a lifting sit/stand table, with shelves build up from this modules -
ancre le rochefort by cabrapente
Mike Y replied to cabrapente's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Band-sander! Brilliant idea! -
Robin, here is the NMM page with that model, maybe it will give you some additional information for your research: http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66277.html
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- hahn
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Thanks for the comments and likes! Greg, all the photos show the good side only. The ugly one is not shown yet - it has wood strips patching low spots, rough finish and a lot of shortcuts (simple gunport sills instead of angled, simplified transom framing, etc) The ugly side would be fully planked fom top to the bottom, so no need to bother with accuracy there. I will post a photo one day.. Just too ashamed to show it. Hi Robin, Do you mean the model I showed as a reference? Sorry, I do not have a pictures of its great cabin, the only one I have are from NMM website. Or I misunderstood the question?
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Had the same with my model, and luckily the gaps closed completely as soon as humidity returned to the normal level and stayed there for a few days. But it was scary! Your model is truly a museum-quality, and museum quality requires museum humidity controlling equipment Consider it as a compliment from mother nature
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Had very little time for modelling, pretty high activity in the office (in a good way though). But finally finished the side counter timbers on the side that would be open (read as "the side where I am trying to make it nice"). This one should start with a very old Soviet anecdote: So I installed some very oversized blocks and sanded them down to a wing-like shape. There are few minor errors (the wing transom corner was smoothened too much, and there are few minor dents), but I think it is decent for some part that was done totally from scratch, not according to Hahn's plans. Flipped the hull for the first time. Looks like a ship, actually! Time to finish the "ugly" side, and make a cradle for working with jig upside down, to access the inside of the hull. P.S.: sorry for the very blurry thumbnails of the photos, not sure why the forum engine compresses them so much. Please look on the fullsize versions, they are not as blurry.
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http://www.dlumberyard.com/sells the plans and a timbering set for it. However, I ended up buying another wood (from Arkowood), because the wood provided with the timbering set had a major colour variation and defects (if we talk about the wood for frames, other wood was fine), and had a very rough finish, and sanding it to smoother finish was a very tedious and dull work. If you have a thickness a sander / planer - that should not be a big deal though.
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Thanks! But actually, it would be fully visible. I will leave one side fully unplanked, which means that half of the counter timbers would be exposed (also with some skeleton of the quarter gallery). Like this:
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Side counter timbers are fun! Starting with an oversized piece, made of two pieces each: After cutting and sanding: Installed, with a really oversized wing-like timbers: Now need to cut them to shape right on the hull, fair and add some nice spacers
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Installed "hawse timbers". There were three options 1) Install a filler piece. Meh! 2) Build hawse timbers as they should be, as TFFM describes it. Opened the chapter about it, realised I also need bollard timbers. And I was supposed to do that without any drawings and patterns, because Hahn omits that detail as non-important Also, it will look weird - tightly spaced timbers at the bow, and evenly spaced simplified framing at the rest of the hull. So - next time, next model So I decided to go with option #3 - install one more frame that will look like a cant frame, and will follow the style of other frames. Since there are no drawings for that, started with template. Used that mushy extra-soft basswood that is supplied with Longboat kit - it is better than cardboard for that purpose, and shapes easily with any tools. Ended up with this beefy template: After lots of fitting and fine tuning, resulting hawse timber / extra cant frame ended up installed: Now making a side counter timbers. They would be built in TFFM way, because I do not like the way Hahn suggests to make it - with counter timbers installed 90 degrees to the ground, instead of following the curve of the hull. Huh, really? Going to do it this way (thanks Toni for a very clear photo in her Atlanta build log!)
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ancre Le François 1683 by jose_b - Scale 1:48
Mike Y replied to jose_b's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
I can only guess how long it took to fine tune the keelson! Looks great! -
Oh wow, now it is clear how huge the model is! Have you weighted it? Also, what is your feedback on that LED lights in the display case? I was always worried that a cold white light will make model look more flat and pale than it really is. But your photos show a nice deep rich color. What are those LEDs? Would appreciate some information!
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Incredible! Looking forward for the high quality photos of a finished model, and of course for the exciting build log of the next one
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Proxxon TG125 Bench Disk Sander
Mike Y replied to pompey2's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The best place to buy it in Europe is amazon.de, never saw it cheaper. It is a good sander, very quiet. But mine was with slightly curved table, I replaced it with a wooden one. However, Proxxon support is good, they will ship you another table if that problem will happen for you!
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