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Mike Y

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Everything posted by Mike Y

  1. Anything with a closed rollout sections will not work - the drawers are mounted pretty high (to make room for liftong the table, 125cm in the top position), so things should be accesssible from the lower angle - shelfs are on the level of your head and sholders. I will just make an internal plywood shelfs, should be simple.
  2. I was writing about IKEA electrical height adjusted tables here, and now I finally got it to try first hand. See the photos in "where do you do your modelling" topic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3869-so-where-do-you-do-yours-then-model-making-that-is/page-26#entry399112 It is the BEKANT table: http://www.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/30255250/ With GERTON table top: http://www.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/50106773/ It is more stable than I expected, probably a heavy table top (it is a thick solid wood) helps with that. Really great, I can recommend it.
  3. Spent few weeks working on my "living room corner workshop" Finally I have a lifting table! No more bending the neck and back when working with a small details! Hooorray! Normal position: Standing position: All power tools are stacked below the table, except the disk sander that is used too frequently. Small stuff is hidden in the drawers (need to add some internal compartments for a more efficient space use), and very frequently used tools are on a magnetic holder outside the drawers: Everything is from IKEA, of course Electrical table legs - BEKANT (I am very pleased with them, very little play, very stable, even better than my office table, which is far more expensive) Table top - GERTON. It is a solid wood beech top, which I sanded and finished with tung oil. Drawers - VALJE. They are neat like tetris bricks, could be combined in many different ways.
  4. Your log is a pleasure to read, please keep it coming!
  5. Very tiny margin for the frame fairing, hope you will not force yourself into the corner... Watching with interest!
  6. I really wish to become 48 times smaller for an hour to crawl inside this amazing replica. Tom is right, you are building a piece that is above the average museum quality!
  7. Jim, thanks for the info! Never heard about this system. Looks very interesting! Now I am seriously thinking about a lifting sit/stand table, with shelves build up from this modules
  8. Robin, here is the NMM page with that model, maybe it will give you some additional information for your research: http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66277.html
  9. Amazing website! An excellent way to show our hobby to an outsider. Also because linking to the build log directly is not possible (photos are not available for non-registered visitors), but now you have an external source. Bravo!
  10. Thanks for the comments and likes! Greg, all the photos show the good side only. The ugly one is not shown yet - it has wood strips patching low spots, rough finish and a lot of shortcuts (simple gunport sills instead of angled, simplified transom framing, etc) The ugly side would be fully planked fom top to the bottom, so no need to bother with accuracy there. I will post a photo one day.. Just too ashamed to show it. Hi Robin, Do you mean the model I showed as a reference? Sorry, I do not have a pictures of its great cabin, the only one I have are from NMM website. Or I misunderstood the question?
  11. Had the same with my model, and luckily the gaps closed completely as soon as humidity returned to the normal level and stayed there for a few days. But it was scary! Your model is truly a museum-quality, and museum quality requires museum humidity controlling equipment Consider it as a compliment from mother nature
  12. Had very little time for modelling, pretty high activity in the office (in a good way though). But finally finished the side counter timbers on the side that would be open (read as "the side where I am trying to make it nice"). This one should start with a very old Soviet anecdote: So I installed some very oversized blocks and sanded them down to a wing-like shape. There are few minor errors (the wing transom corner was smoothened too much, and there are few minor dents), but I think it is decent for some part that was done totally from scratch, not according to Hahn's plans. Flipped the hull for the first time. Looks like a ship, actually! Time to finish the "ugly" side, and make a cradle for working with jig upside down, to access the inside of the hull. P.S.: sorry for the very blurry thumbnails of the photos, not sure why the forum engine compresses them so much. Please look on the fullsize versions, they are not as blurry.
  13. http://www.dlumberyard.com/sells the plans and a timbering set for it. However, I ended up buying another wood (from Arkowood), because the wood provided with the timbering set had a major colour variation and defects (if we talk about the wood for frames, other wood was fine), and had a very rough finish, and sanding it to smoother finish was a very tedious and dull work. If you have a thickness a sander / planer - that should not be a big deal though.
  14. Would be great to raise that 25 page limit for the pdf exporting module. I am pretty sure that this limit is artificial It might hit some memory limits on the server if trying to export a really big log, but only if that module is implemented in a really suboptimal way. Hope it is not!
  15. Thanks! But actually, it would be fully visible. I will leave one side fully unplanked, which means that half of the counter timbers would be exposed (also with some skeleton of the quarter gallery). Like this:
  16. That is a very proffessional set of plans! Waiting to see the first build photos. You should feel like a real shipwright!
  17. Side counter timbers are fun! Starting with an oversized piece, made of two pieces each: After cutting and sanding: Installed, with a really oversized wing-like timbers: Now need to cut them to shape right on the hull, fair and add some nice spacers
  18. Installed "hawse timbers". There were three options 1) Install a filler piece. Meh! 2) Build hawse timbers as they should be, as TFFM describes it. Opened the chapter about it, realised I also need bollard timbers. And I was supposed to do that without any drawings and patterns, because Hahn omits that detail as non-important Also, it will look weird - tightly spaced timbers at the bow, and evenly spaced simplified framing at the rest of the hull. So - next time, next model So I decided to go with option #3 - install one more frame that will look like a cant frame, and will follow the style of other frames. Since there are no drawings for that, started with template. Used that mushy extra-soft basswood that is supplied with Longboat kit - it is better than cardboard for that purpose, and shapes easily with any tools. Ended up with this beefy template: After lots of fitting and fine tuning, resulting hawse timber / extra cant frame ended up installed: Now making a side counter timbers. They would be built in TFFM way, because I do not like the way Hahn suggests to make it - with counter timbers installed 90 degrees to the ground, instead of following the curve of the hull. Huh, really? Going to do it this way (thanks Toni for a very clear photo in her Atlanta build log!)
  19. I can only guess how long it took to fine tune the keelson! Looks great!
  20. Oh wow, now it is clear how huge the model is! Have you weighted it? Also, what is your feedback on that LED lights in the display case? I was always worried that a cold white light will make model look more flat and pale than it really is. But your photos show a nice deep rich color. What are those LEDs? Would appreciate some information!
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