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Mike Y

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Everything posted by Mike Y

  1. Mike Y
    Hm, so the buckets were exposed to rain, and some rope was stored inside. Shouldn't it just end up with rotten ropes inside the wet bucket?
  2. Mike Y
    This is a very professional building board, for sure!
  3. Mike Y
    So about the keel joint - I am still puzzled. TFFM says it is vertical: While the replica builders put it horizontally, like I did (unintentionally). Some joints are even locked (is it the right term?): So which way is correct? Or both are fine? Or I misinterpreted TFFM, and the keel there is drawn "on the side"? I do not have the book with me now, so can't check for sure..
  4. Mike Y
    Apparently, they even have a live video camera! You can watch the build process live, during the working hours in UTC+3 timezone https://www.ivideon.com/tv/camera/200-27795e76f5256934b23c11ba66143f06/393216/?lang=ru Also created a topic according to Mark's advice, it is here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12395-replica-poltava-1712-russian-ship-of-the-line/
  5. Mike Y
    Mark, right, will create a topic there. It is probably interesting not only for the readers of that log.. One of the youtubes mentions the construction of the transom: Apparently, the ship's builders were very annoyed by the complexity of it. And said something like "promise this is the last time you draft such fashionpieces" Seems like you can't go with our "make an oversized detail and fair it to shape" approach when you build a real ship..
  6. Mike Y
    Other photos are without comments, just a bulk of what I managed to record while being in the hull. I was only allowed into the hull for 5min, so was shooting photos all around, just in case Also, if you are interested - do not miss the youtubes by the builders of the replica. They are in russian, but nevermind the narrative.
  7. Mike Y
    Here comes the most interesting part of the tour! Only for shipmodelling geeks, regular visitors are not allowed inside the hull yet - you can fall from the deck beams. Follow the guide! He is dressed according to the Ship's period, and is a real enthusiast. Knees are made out of laminated oak planks, because it is too hard to find properly bent oak trees: Mast post and internal planking. Note the ventilation holes, interesting detail: Gunport sills are made in a simplified manner, without any angled mortises. Cheaters! Also, they made the keel joints in the same way as I did, same projection. Not side-to-side, but top-to-bottom. I noticed it only on the photos, not when I was onsite, so do not have a really good photo. But it is visible here: And a screenshot from the early construction video, where it is also visible: So TFFM is wrong? Or both ways of making that joints are valid? Anyway, now I am not worried that my keel is wrong. Hey, 1:1 model is assembled in the same manner!
  8. Mike Y
    Visited Poltava project again. It is the replica frigate of the same period is my Cromwell. Built based on the same books. According to the guide, it has a classic British design, and constructors of the replica are reading the same books The hull is completed, now they build decks and plank the hull: Tiny model in 1:12 scale is being built in parallel The model would be a part of the museum. The launch is scheduled for mid 2017, would be parked in St.Petersburg, Russia. No engine, pure sail power. They are also planning to sell the set of very detailed plans that could be used to build a model. There were 5 (five!) people working in CAD fulltime, building the ship in 3d and planning everything. So these plans are going to be good!
  9. Mike Y
    the lowest speed for MF70 is 5000. Works well enough on this speed, haven't tried to go faster if I am cutting pear / boxwood with 1mm cutter or larger.
  10. Mike Y
    It is a living room, so I must do a quick cleanup after every modelling session, otherwise family will start to whine about it after a while vaccuum the wood chips, wipe away fine sawdust. One of the reasons why I can't get a thickness sander Thanks for the congratulations! Now I have no excuses not to make a fine joints! Going off for holidays, aim to finish all the ports in January and finally start the fairing! That would be the moment of truth
  11. Mike Y
    Really like the blend of the colors above wale. Fantastic!
  12. Mike Y
    Mike, you need to connect/disconnect the joint 25 times to make a room for the glue In practice, I was surprised how easy it is to get the right dimensions of the joint using mill's measuring functionality. This joint was cut from first attempt, no extra fitting. Super easy! Toni, not really, I have a coffee stain on the cutting mat and an ugly scrap wood pile and sandpaper pile. Eeew!
  13. Mike Y
    The mill (Proxxon MF70) is truly great. Very precise, and with a proxxon cutters it cuts pear as butter. On the lowest possible speed (5k rpm), even with 1mm cutter! Here are some first cuts and a first thingy produced on the lathe: Now I can cut joints like this in no time! Hooray! Previously such joint will take me 30min minimum, and it would not be that precise anyway:
  14. Mike Y
    Not a lot of progress, still cutting the gunports. A lot of work, not enough time for modelling... Added this monograph into the collection. Who knows, maybe that would be the next project in 5 years? Santa read that build log and decided I really need some new toys! Now I have 5 power tools hidden in the different parts of the modelling table, and still some room left. How do you guys manage to occupy the entire workshops?
  15. Mike Y
    Your build process looks and feels very real! Like building a house, or even a real ship!
  16. Mike Y
    Mike, I do not think it is more advanced than your Cheerful. Thanks for a dozen great build logs on MSW, you know every step in advance. TFFM is the greatest instruction book ever! I secretly hope that you will start a fully framed build after Cheerful Your experience is _not_ limited, and your quality level is definitely higher than mine. P.S.: I should really get the white towel. Stuntflyer and Dubz use it, they both has awesome models => I need to get the towel too => my model would be awesome! Cargo cult, yay!
  17. Mike Y
    Perfectly white towel is a good match for the perfectly built model! Your accuracy is unbeatable!
  18. Mike Y
    Depends on what is needed - fine grits do not remove any material, but they polish and change the look. There is a pretty visible difference after you sand castello or pear with 1200. But maybe other people use steel wool or similar things for that.
  19. Mike Y
    Maybe there are different grits in US and EU? I use Mirka sandpaper. From 240 to 2000. Typically 240 -> 400 -> 600 -> 1200. Grit 2000 makes an interesting effect, and not suitable for some woods. I never ever used 60 or 80 grit on a model - it is so rough that leave deep scratches. Sometimes I use a sanding stick with grit 180 as a rasp. 240 is the lowest grit I can use. It is aggressive enough to thickness sand frames, etc. And in a lot if comments I see "start with 60". Reeeeally?
  20. Mike Y
    After you finished the longboat with such a quality and style - you are officially not allowed to cal yourself a beginner! Really like the colora of your boat, darker red looks good with that shade of stain. What is your next project?
  21. Mike Y
    One of the cleanest looking ship wheels I ever saw! But I am an idiot, could you please explain the construction of that duplicating device? Its lines do not match the spokes shape... Edif: I got it. The brass tube is oversized, and it is not cutting the wood. Instead, you use some cutting device or a file to shape the wood, and brass rod is a limit, pattern that stops the cutting device. Right?
  22. Mike Y
    Jack, thank you! Never saw this one. Ordered, hope it will fit!
  23. Mike Y
    The problem is not the width, it is the length. That blades are too short for regular honing guides, making it impossible to fix the blade on the proper angle. Same with miniature chisels
  24. Mike Y
    To the LeeValley miniature plane owners: have you found a small enough honing guide to sharpen that plane's blades?
  25. Mike Y
    John, Patrick - thank you! Mark, indeed, 1:48 is a handy scale. I can't imagine cutting that sills on a smaller scale - I am using the smallest diamond files, for a smaller scale you will need to make your own. Cutting this part of the mortise is tricky even in 1:48 - too small for files that I have, looking for a tiny tine square file. Too small to use chisel or a knife there. Maybe scraping is an option, will try it on a next port.

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