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Mike Y

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  1. Mike Y
    The Admiral found an unusual application for the Cromwell v0.1 In a meanwhile, Cromwell 1.0 is still getting its gunport sills installed. Angled mortises are tricky, but the result worth it: Overall status: 40% of the gunports are ready, 60% remaining..
  2. Mike Y
    Very accurate! Interesting "weathered" look of the hull, you clearly have a good idea about the wood you want to use
  3. Mike Y
    Very beautiful and nice lines! You rarely see the cross section of that part of the hull, but it is the most delicate part actually Following with interest, please share more! Especially pictures of the process
  4. Mike Y
    RoB, great hint, didn't know about Rekon's youtube. It is here: https://youtube.com/channel/UCgl5adH6_gJ1Pq4DjxnUvUw Looks like I know what I will watch tonight
  5. Mike Y
    Remco, that is a relief! Or, just keep calm and cut the gunports
  6. Mike Y
    John, that makes sense, thanks for the photo! Mark, I also have such xacto saw, but afraid of cutting too close - it might snap and scratch the frame, or I might end up with a wrong angle. So I am cutting a bit far away and then file to a proper size. Will try to change that process.
  7. Mike Y
    Mark, thanks for the idea. I remember it from your log. But it's faster to just quickly cut away the wood you want to remove, takes just 10min or so. Requires some sharp knife though What takes significantly more time is sanding / filing / scraping / polishing the cutoffs to install the sills on a proper angle and without gaps. But maybe it will come with practice.
  8. Mike Y
    Thanks for likes and comments, they help to move forward! First made a bow sander and started to smoothen the lines of the transom wings: Looks much better now. But the final shaping would be done later anyway, when I will fair the hull: Now to the gunports. I seriously underestimated efforts required. It took around 4-5 hours to make the first pair Square block of wood was used as a guide to ensure squareness and parallelism of the port sills. It also helped to file the edges of the ports on a proper angle. I struggled to find a proper working position - too low if you sit, too high if you stand. Ended up with this setup: Careful sanding / filing took an enormous time, no way to use chisel for it (too tight, cross grain, might split). Also, on exposed side sills were done in a semi-correct way - with angled joints, correct thickness of the lower sill, but the upper sill had the same thickness as the lower one (comparing to a fully correct way, when the upper sill is thicker). Making that angled joints was fun! End result. Too early to say, the joint accuracy would be visible only after the fairing, which I can't do now - will sand away a lot of pencil marks on the nearby frames Sorry for the mess, I hate to show all that glue stains, poly stains, rough edges - but too early to fair. It would be nicer, I promise! Overall build status: Hope that next gunports will be quicker - will measure better to reduce the sanding/filing time. Would appreciate any hints or tricks. But I doubt there is any silver bullet - I was just totally wrong in a time estimate. With a speed of one gunport per week, I might not finish it before Christmas..
  9. Mike Y
    No, because it will not make a straight line. I clamped an xacto blade to the piece of wood which was pushed to the keel and slided to make a cut. Worked! Can try to dig up some photo... Should be somewhere in my Oliver Cromwell build log. Sorry, hard to find a link, replying from the phone now
  10. Mike Y
    Incredible! The build process looks so simple on your photos What types of wood were used?
  11. Mike Y
    Finished the transom wings. It is an interesting area of the hull, a lot of fine tuning and shaping Left the wings slightly oversized and with rough corners (too square), will properly shape them while fairing the hull. As usual, ignore the right side of the photo - it will be fully planked, so it is less accurate Now starting the gunports.
  12. Mike Y
    Ever thought about starting a fully framed model? With your skills - I am looking forward to follow!
  13. Mike Y
    Just wow! Are you using different kinds of pear, or you have one batch of pear that you sort according to the color?
  14. Mike Y
    Toni, thanks for the heads up. Yes, the gunports are fine tuned with the file before installing the sills.
  15. Mike Y
    Luckily I have David's "Comet" book and plans, galleries are pretty well covered there. But yes, skipping such "simple" things is a nice surprise for the modeller
  16. Mike Y
    Thanks for likes and comments, it is very encouraging Worked on transom wings today. Hahn plans do not have any lines for wings, except a very rough shape for the top one. So instead of a regular "cut-bevel-sand-apply poly-install" process, was using carboard templates to come up with a proper shape. So far only top wing is installed, others needs to be better fitted. The bevels are small, proper beveling would be done on a hull - the shape is complex, it is difficult to pre-bevel. Thanks to TFFM and various build logs, all the nuances of transom installation are pretty well covered. However, I simplified the joints - instead of cutting slots, just glued wing flat to the last frame. Reinforced with treenails The wing looks much brighter than the frames, strange. I was careful with the wood selection, probably it is due to light exposure of the frame. Hope it will get darker over time! Started cutting the gunports, first on the planked side. The method is simple and is relatively fast, so will share. Sorry if it is too obvious. 1) Make cutoffs using xacto keyhole saw: 2) Remove wood with a sharp knife. It is easy because all cuts are following the grain 3) When close to desired width (in my case - I need to remove exactly half of the frame thickness) - continue with a sanding stick (it is like a file, but faster if using a coarser sand belt) 4) Gunport is ready to be finished with files (sill slots would be are also cut with files, and a square piece of wood helps aligning ports on both sides)
  17. Mike Y
    1mm should be possible to sand away, either with disk sander or 220 grit sandpaper fixed on the table top with some clamps. I just did it today, needed 4mm and 5mm thickness, but had only 8mm wood sheet
  18. Mike Y
    Patrick, always wanted to ask - do you have some kind of a "group photo" of you models? They are so miniature and you build them so quick, should make an impressive fleet!
  19. Mike Y
    Yep, I am eagerly waiting for it. Already have a stash of various sanding pads, papers, scrapers, discs, blocks, etc. Will see what is better!
  20. Mike Y
    Just another example that would be nice to have table of contents and few pages as a preview. I was buying TFFM completely blindly, the book description is extremely vague. I only knew that "since everybody has such a good feedback - the book is good, whatever is there". But it should definitely increase sales if there would be a better description and some teasers available! Same for plans. I trust that Greg and David made the best, top notch plans. I can assume they will allow me to build a whole model. But it is just assumption based on reputation. But I wonder how many potential buyers turned away, because they are unsure what they will get when buying plans? Ok, probably not that many - if you seriously consider building fully framed model and need plans - you can mail Greg and ask for details
  21. Mike Y
    Symbolic milestone - all frames installed! Now need to install that tricky transom frames and wings, something that will represent hawse timbers, and cut the gunports. And then - start the magical process of fairing!
  22. Mike Y
    Because you do need hell lot of big, expensive and otherwise useless tools (big bandsaw, big tablesaw, thickness sander). Not everybody have a workshop What is the use for that tools after you finally cut your very local tree into pieces? They will just collect dust. While a perfect quality wood is just a few clicks away. It is smooth, has no defects and do not require any tools to start using it. You only need a small tools that you need for actual modelling. Actual wood selection is frequently done by reading others build logs, and thinking "wow, I also want a wood like that". So instead of saying "swiss pear" or "holly" one can say "that white crisp wood I saw in Remco's buildlog", but it will cause some confusion, isn't it? If a lot of people are willing to pay for "pear,box and holly" instead of buying big tools to cut the wood themselves - that only means that they are not smart enough, and not making a rational choices, of course. And not a real builders, obviously. It is just like building a lego bricks, if you do not cut your own wood out of the log.
  23. Mike Y
    Contacted European service center, they helped quickly - just "send it to this address with this mail coverstion printed inside the box, so we will know what to do". Got a new dremel in a few weeks, so now I have a double set of accessories and a spare charger John, thanks again for the heads up. I haven't received any malls from Amazon where dremel qas initiallu purchased..
  24. Mike Y
    Mark, thanks for the scan. No such thing in my plans, guess it is just something for builder to decide It is not a blocking problem, pretty clear how to close that gap, need to select the best alternative and do it.
  25. Mike Y
    Druxey, thanks for the note. Hahn framing is quite different in that area, he do not show hawse timbers. It is quite different from a real framing, descibed in TFFM. Simplified for aesthetics Adding just two hawse timbers will look weird, so will try to follow the same style - probably will add one skewed frame, like the most forward frame on the hull right now.

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