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Mike Y

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  1. Mike Y
    Carl, I agree, but I am a bit confused with the meaning of these dotted lines on the NNM blueprint. What are they? If I remember correctly, the powder room has a tiled floor for various reasons, there should be a space for this floor. So the shape of the powder room outlined with dotted lines make more sense.
  2. Mike Y
    It is a very charming photo, the man and his model. Agree, it would be perfect on a book cover!
  3. Mike Y
    Started marking the deck clamp positions, seems pretty straightforward: But I am really confused about the location of the lower deck clamp. The method is very simple - take the deck beams locations, make an offset because they are inserted into 1'' recesses in the clamps, mark the clamp position accordingly. However, the lower deck beams line has some weird step, according to Hahn plans: Original NNM plans have two sets of beams pictured, one of them is in dotted lines: Close-up: I am really confused about the meaning of it. With an open and unplanked hull, I do not want to make a stepped lower deck clamp, it will not look nice. Would really appreciate an advice!
  4. Mike Y
    Looks really great! Just a little bit of a feedback - don't you think that frames are a little bit too thin, cut very close to the lines? It leaves a very small margin for fairing, and especially around midship it is easy to get slight mis-alignment on top part of the frame. Lots of experienced builders advised to cut a frame with 1mm margin from the lines, which would be needed when fairing. Also, I was surprised how much material is gone when fairing is finished, and you just sand it or with fine paper to make a smooth surface without scratches. Just my 2 cents, maybe you already thought it through
  5. Mike Y
    Heh, sounds like a good problem to deal with! Saw some build logs where plank seams were made more visible by scribing them with some sharp tool, on an already planked hull (not before the planks are glued, but after). It was looking quite good! But must be tested first, of course.
  6. Mike Y
    Thanks a lot for likes and good words, it is really encouraging! Now playing with different tools to properly transfer height/depth from plans to the inside of the hull. Height gauge only works outside, but thanks to MSW, there are lots of different jigs posted in other build logs
  7. Mike Y
    Thank you!The oiled side would not be planked at all, the other side would be fully planked, so it was not oiled
  8. Mike Y
    Final result. As you can see, I was not really careful with the wood selection in the beginning, so there is a spot of lighter pear around the midship. I began to sort the wood into lighter and darker color later on, and now it is visible. Forever. Well.. Let's call it an artistic touch Overall, I am pleased with the colour, but surprised it became reddish. It will probably get darker and fade away over time. There is also a big contrast between the along-the-grain wood covered with WOP (all the parts of the keel) and cross-grain wood with oil applied. It is literally the same wood, where I selected a pretty dark pieces for the keel! I swear! Now it looks like two different woods. Let's call this a feature too I am done with the fairing, and done with the hull structure. HOORRAY! Now I can finally relax, watch the oil dry and start making the deck clamps. Big relief! The hull is not screwed up while fairing, the viking funeral is cancelled
  9. Mike Y
    Yay, the fairing is finally finished! It was a nasty process with lots of curves, and final finish done by scraping with xacto blades. But in the end no frame got hurt, no iron bolts got exposed (though some come really close to the edge). Applied one coat of a non-diluted, 100% pure tung oil (tried diluted oil - result was blotchy, meh). I was applying a very moderate amount of oil and wiping it with a cloth quickly to prevent uneven result. Covering only the outside surface, no oil at all was applied inside the hull (because deck clamps would be glued to it). The process was very relaxing, finished in the middle of the night.. And you can imagine my surprise when I checked the inside of the hull and saw OIL there! Seems like it really penetrated through the entire frame, except the thicker floor timbers. You can see the oil avoiding the lamination seems, where glue blocks the oil from penetrating. I really thought it goes just 1-2mm inside the wood, but no, it is more like 5mm, and maybe even 10mm if you take the grain direction into account. At the same time, it is fairly simple to scrape it away with xacto blade. Miracle. Capillary suction sucked a pretty thick oil, which was applied in a very moderate amounts.. Who could have guessed.
  10. Mike Y
    If working with wood and moving the table manually, I have a hard time imagining a need for a high speed. 1mm cutter on pear on 5k rpm gives a super clean cut, why should I spin it faster? I am a beginner when it comes to milling, would appreciate an explanation from some more experienced members!
  11. Mike Y
    Thank you, Siggi! They are really valuable for me.
  12. Mike Y
    Latest updates: Got a shipment of cast cannons (from http://shipmodels.com.ua/) andanchor and also a cnc milled figurehead (from igorcap) Very little time for modelling, but briefly visited Paris to admire the great collection of fully framed models in its maritime museum. Still fairing the inside of the hull. The "planked" side fairing is finished, but the "prime" fully opened side will take more time. It is a nasty process, I will really follow a traditional build sequence next time - fairing bow and stern first, before midship is assembled. Out of all my tools, just two are usable for it - curved scraper and a similarly shaped sanding block. Also some xacto blades for a fine scraping later during the process: Found a super simple way to keep the dust away - two sheets of paper - and it is collecting under the hull, not getting onto the floor. Also looks spooky These parts are really tricky due to very convex curves: My frame alignment was not perfect, some ended up too thin, but I will cheat a beat and leave them slightly unfair on the internal side - it would be hard to see anyway. Lesson for the future - build in the upright position, where it is much easier to control the alignment of the thin top timbers. If building in Hahn way, upside down - leave a lot of margin around top timbers, where they are thin and sensible to misalignment, when you cut the frames.
  13. Mike Y
    Love the photo that is 2nd from the bottom. Very elegant lines of the frames, and a beautiful finish! Sweeet!
  14. Mike Y
    Allan, Druxey, thanks for the info. Looking forward to see more of that "typically omitted details"
  15. Mike Y
    Hmmm, something is fishy, sounds too good to be true! Best wishes, hope this project will go smooth!
  16. Mike Y
    Can you tell more about that staples? Never saw them on any model. Why they were used instead of just bolting the false keel to the keel? To make it easier to replace the false keel?
  17. Mike Y
    Great news, looking forward for the book! Hope it will come with the plans?
  18. Mike Y
    Vernier calipers never lie.. Never trusted that cheap electrical ones, with a two-cent parts they can't be trustworthy. And proper proffessional calipers cost a fortune.
  19. Mike Y
    Would be great if you can show some pictures of the process, very curious!
  20. Mike Y
    Robin, that is very easy - click on the image to open a fullsize version, right click -> save image, then post it to your thread.
  21. Mike Y
    Yaay, finally somebody in Stockholm builds a fully framed model! Let me pull the chair. How about some beer?
  22. Mike Y
    Very accurate! What are those tiny round "holes" in the deadwood?
  23. Mike Y
    Glenn, your model seems to be built with a much higher accuracy than the original vessel A pleasure to follow. The use of CNC looks very effective! Oh, forgot that you also need to make a CAD model before it is machined How noisy is the cnc cutter? Is it something you can tolerare for a few hours, or you schedule some overnight batch and have a freshly baked parts next morning?
  24. Mike Y
    Chris, thanks for the advice, will take a wool. I sanded away most of the old oil. In some spots is penetrated too deep, but it is mostly gone. Waiting for the surface to get dry, and will start over with a proper technology.
  25. Mike Y
    May I ask another newbie question? What would you recommend to do between coats to achieve a non-glossy, but nice look, if using diluted tung oil on this wood? 1) Lightly sand with 600 grit sandpaper 2) "Sand" with 0000 steel wool 3) Do nothing

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