bhermann

When I was planking Bluenose, she spent a lot of time upside-down in my lap.  No sharp objects were in use - all cutting was done on the work desk.  If you need to see a shrink, I do too... I wonder if we can get a group rate?

Bob

You know, the irony is that I live about 5 miles from the Peabody museum but have never been in it. I have been meaning to go for ever and have just never gotten around to it.

Tom -

If you plan on going soon, you may want to wait until after August, but before October.  Salem tends to wind up a lot for the summer and around Halloween.  I haven't been to the PEM in years, but it is certainly worth the trip.

BTW, what you are doing here is making me think I may have to actually build a warship at some point in the future - I love the attention to detail you are putting into her!

Bob

I was thinking about "borrowing" the Admirals cutter for sail material - as long as I use things for the same purpose she does, she is usually very understanding.  If I were to try that with wood veneer, however - watch out!

Bob

Congratulations, Jay.  I have enjoyed watching your work progress over time.  You must be so happy with the result.  Thanks for sharing your journey with us and Well Done!

Bob

Looks like some very nice work, John.  Congratulations on getting through her - not bad for a practice model 

Bob

Richard -

I like the idea.  I stared a spreadsheet for Bluenose when I was working on the head rigging.  It was more of a historical documentation item at that point than a planning tool, but as I ponder moving forward someday, it would be nice to have everything laid out in a manner that would allow for manipulation of the order, and to mark each line complete as you go through the process. 

Bob

those are approximately the temperatures of the solder I was trying.  I guess the blazer just doesn't reach the temperature it advertises.  One of the members of my ship club loaned by a torch that used oxygen and fuel. I am going to give it a try.  Then, I may just try the Bernzomatic which should be easily available from one of the hardware stores in town.

Bob, does yours still have a model number on it to help with the search?

 

Thanks all,

Richard

Richard

I looked all over the torch and I don't see a model number anywhere.  I recall that I picked it up at Home Depot and the price was in the $40-60 range (I think).  Sorry i don't have any better detail than that.  I bought this one after trying a couple of pencil torches.  They worked OK, but I had a lot of trouble trying to refill them.

Bob

Bob,

what is the melting temperature of the solder you use?

 

Thanks,

Richard

Richard - the supplier (SRA) reports the melting point at 1205 degrees Fahrenheit.  The product is described as "Solder Paste with Flux Silver Easy"  There is a medium version that melts at 1325 and a hard that melts at 1435.

Bob

Richard - I use this Berzomatic torch for silver soldering.  It runs on butane and is hot enough for the silver soldering I have done to date.  I use the silver soldering paste with flux premixed.  The torch has an adjustable flame.  I picked this up at Home Depot a couple or three years ago and it has been fine for me.  If I am not careful, it is capable of melting and evaporating the brass pieces I am working on.

Bob

Tadeusz

Thanks for outlining the step by step process you use.  In my opinion, the thermal transfer is brilliant.  I have been hesitating to start my sails for quite a while because I don't want to sew the seam lines (I think they would look too bulky) and I don't trust myself to be able to draw them evenly using pencil.  You have certainly given me something to think about!  I imagine transfer will be more durable than pencil - another plus for the technique.

Thanks,

Bob

Hi Steven, and welcome to MSW.  I will be following along with your build.  Flying Fish is next on my list.  The box is sitting underneath the Bluenose box, daring me to open it up and get things started.

One thought on the deck caulking.  I used a number two pencil along one side of each plank to do that on Bluenose.  I think it came out OK, and I didn't have any problems with smudging when I sanded and sealed the deck.  If you use the wrong kind of marker to do it, I'd be nervous about the ink bleeding onto the top of the plank.

A full set of sails including the stunsls should make for a lovely presentation.  I look forward to watching your progress!

Bob

Bluenose is my first build - I enjoy working on her when I have the time.  She is relatively straightforward to plank.  The MS plan sheets show a lot of detail that you can add or not, depending on your interest.  Overall I'd say she seems like a good next kit for you, if you have an interest in fishing schooners!

Bob

 

Forgive me Julian, I think that the position of ship name is not correct.

 

 

Regards, Matija.

 

Actually the name appeared in both configurations over the life of the ship.  Around the rail and on the transom are both used, so it is builders choice as to which one to use.

Bob

That looks like a decent approximation from what I can tell.  Interesting process you came up with here.

Bob

Arghhh... you hit on one of my greatest fears - getting something completed and installed, then realizing there is just 'one more thing' that needed to be done.  I admire your tenacity in making a replacement instead of accepting the error.  I probably would have tried to cut the slot out and install real sheaves - nah, I would have hoped no one would notice and gone with the part as is .

Your idea for the drilling jig is a good one and sounds like a good way to ensure alignment between multiple holes or multiple sessions with the same dowel.  I'll tuck that one into the back of my head for future use.  It'd bee good for drilling holes, attaching jaws and making bands.  I've pretty much done everything by hand and by eye to this point.

Bob

John -  sorry I missed this.  I don't have a lot (or any) painting expertise, so I seldom look into this topic.  I built this guy a few years back after a couple of false starts on models that were much too complicated to take on with no experience.  I have a recollection of gluing my fingers together rather severely while putting the barrel together.

I'm afraid I can't help with your paint color question.  I did the hull white, and the interior a dark green color.  Like I said, not much experience with paint here. It looks like your build has turned out very nicely.  I like the natural wood interior, even if that isn't the way they normally did them.  The paddlewheeler came out very nicely too.

Bob

Ed -  Thanks for posting more fabulous work.  I was picturing the full size ship being pitched over as in the first photo for planking the lower regions - it brought a smile to my face.  At least you don't have to work for hours holding your arms above your shoulders - that is always the most painful position I can think of to work in

The info on the two volumes to come is very interesting to me.  A Naiad-like volume (or volumes) on clippers is of great interest to me and I will most likely pull the trigger on that one.  The POB version being covered there is just a plus for me.

As always great work - it is a pleasure watching and learning from your process and posts.

Thanks,

bob

Julian -  that object is part of the fore boom sheet.  In the MS version there is a slot in the top of of the piece where Billings has the five dots and a cast metal piece that goes  underneath the top between the side pieces.  There is a ring on top of of the cast piece that extends through the slot.  A shackle and a block are connected to the ring and they are rigged to a block on the boom.  If you look at posts 29 and 44 in my log, you can see the piece installed just ahead of the mainmast.  Unfortunately I didn't add the shackle and the block before installing it    If you would like a closer photo let me know amd I will try and get one.  Heck, I may try to add the shackle and block, if so I will update my log with it.

Bob

Thanks, Dimitris.  I do hope to get back to work on her in the new year!

Bob

Bob -

She looks sweet - you must be very proud!  Nice to see the sails don't hide all the details of your deck work - gotta love those fore and aft rigs!.  Thanks for sharing your work with us.  Looking forward to your next build.

Bob

Looking very nice, Simon.  Don't forget to put the mast hoops on before you permanently close up both ends of the masts   (that was one of my biggest fears when doing the masts.)

Bob

Looking very nice, Robert.  The sails have a realistic billow to them.  Would you care to share your secret as to how you achieved that look?

Thanks,

Bob

Julian - I agree with Jan-Willem on this one.  The same yellow as the cove stripe is called for.  I put how I handled the scroll work into my log rebuild after the MSW crash.  If you are interested take a look here:

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/217-bluenose-by-bhermann-model-shipways-2130-164/?p=5102

The post that follows describes my experiences with decals (home printed in my case).  The decals in your photo look a bit sketchy to me - and the age can't help!

Bob

Julian -

Nice looking deck furniture!.  About the cardboard strips, I think there would be something on the ship side that represents the gudgeons the rudder hangs from.  The MS plans show they don't extend past the sternpost onto the hull, so the strips in the photo appear a bit long for this.  They would be in line with the pintles on the rudder but lower so the pins on the pintles can drop into the fittings in the gudgeons.  I don't know about what would be best to glue them on with.  I used white glue to attach some paper to the bottom of my mainmast pin rail after I broke it while cutting it loose from the billet.  That worked just fine for that purpose.

Bob

I finished emailing the photos - please check them out and use whatever info you can from them.  BTW, I figured out the diagonal beams at the lowest level of the ship were called diagonal riders.

Bob