bhermann

Hi Steven, and welcome to MSW.  I will be following along with your build.  Flying Fish is next on my list.  The box is sitting underneath the Bluenose box, daring me to open it up and get things started.

One thought on the deck caulking.  I used a number two pencil along one side of each plank to do that on Bluenose.  I think it came out OK, and I didn't have any problems with smudging when I sanded and sealed the deck.  If you use the wrong kind of marker to do it, I'd be nervous about the ink bleeding onto the top of the plank.

A full set of sails including the stunsls should make for a lovely presentation.  I look forward to watching your progress!

Bob

Bluenose is my first build - I enjoy working on her when I have the time.  She is relatively straightforward to plank.  The MS plan sheets show a lot of detail that you can add or not, depending on your interest.  Overall I'd say she seems like a good next kit for you, if you have an interest in fishing schooners!

Bob

 

Forgive me Julian, I think that the position of ship name is not correct.

 

 

Regards, Matija.

 

Actually the name appeared in both configurations over the life of the ship.  Around the rail and on the transom are both used, so it is builders choice as to which one to use.

Bob

That looks like a decent approximation from what I can tell.  Interesting process you came up with here.

Bob

Arghhh... you hit on one of my greatest fears - getting something completed and installed, then realizing there is just 'one more thing' that needed to be done.  I admire your tenacity in making a replacement instead of accepting the error.  I probably would have tried to cut the slot out and install real sheaves - nah, I would have hoped no one would notice and gone with the part as is .

Your idea for the drilling jig is a good one and sounds like a good way to ensure alignment between multiple holes or multiple sessions with the same dowel.  I'll tuck that one into the back of my head for future use.  It'd bee good for drilling holes, attaching jaws and making bands.  I've pretty much done everything by hand and by eye to this point.

Bob

John -  sorry I missed this.  I don't have a lot (or any) painting expertise, so I seldom look into this topic.  I built this guy a few years back after a couple of false starts on models that were much too complicated to take on with no experience.  I have a recollection of gluing my fingers together rather severely while putting the barrel together.

I'm afraid I can't help with your paint color question.  I did the hull white, and the interior a dark green color.  Like I said, not much experience with paint here. It looks like your build has turned out very nicely.  I like the natural wood interior, even if that isn't the way they normally did them.  The paddlewheeler came out very nicely too.

Bob

Ed -  Thanks for posting more fabulous work.  I was picturing the full size ship being pitched over as in the first photo for planking the lower regions - it brought a smile to my face.  At least you don't have to work for hours holding your arms above your shoulders - that is always the most painful position I can think of to work in

The info on the two volumes to come is very interesting to me.  A Naiad-like volume (or volumes) on clippers is of great interest to me and I will most likely pull the trigger on that one.  The POB version being covered there is just a plus for me.

As always great work - it is a pleasure watching and learning from your process and posts.

Thanks,

bob

Julian -  that object is part of the fore boom sheet.  In the MS version there is a slot in the top of of the piece where Billings has the five dots and a cast metal piece that goes  underneath the top between the side pieces.  There is a ring on top of of the cast piece that extends through the slot.  A shackle and a block are connected to the ring and they are rigged to a block on the boom.  If you look at posts 29 and 44 in my log, you can see the piece installed just ahead of the mainmast.  Unfortunately I didn't add the shackle and the block before installing it    If you would like a closer photo let me know amd I will try and get one.  Heck, I may try to add the shackle and block, if so I will update my log with it.

Bob

Thanks, Dimitris.  I do hope to get back to work on her in the new year!

Bob

Bob -

She looks sweet - you must be very proud!  Nice to see the sails don't hide all the details of your deck work - gotta love those fore and aft rigs!.  Thanks for sharing your work with us.  Looking forward to your next build.

Bob

Looking very nice, Simon.  Don't forget to put the mast hoops on before you permanently close up both ends of the masts   (that was one of my biggest fears when doing the masts.)

Bob

Looking very nice, Robert.  The sails have a realistic billow to them.  Would you care to share your secret as to how you achieved that look?

Thanks,

Bob

Julian - I agree with Jan-Willem on this one.  The same yellow as the cove stripe is called for.  I put how I handled the scroll work into my log rebuild after the MSW crash.  If you are interested take a look here:

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/217-bluenose-by-bhermann-model-shipways-2130-164/?p=5102

The post that follows describes my experiences with decals (home printed in my case).  The decals in your photo look a bit sketchy to me - and the age can't help!

Bob

Julian -

Nice looking deck furniture!.  About the cardboard strips, I think there would be something on the ship side that represents the gudgeons the rudder hangs from.  The MS plans show they don't extend past the sternpost onto the hull, so the strips in the photo appear a bit long for this.  They would be in line with the pintles on the rudder but lower so the pins on the pintles can drop into the fittings in the gudgeons.  I don't know about what would be best to glue them on with.  I used white glue to attach some paper to the bottom of my mainmast pin rail after I broke it while cutting it loose from the billet.  That worked just fine for that purpose.

Bob

I finished emailing the photos - please check them out and use whatever info you can from them.  BTW, I figured out the diagonal beams at the lowest level of the ship were called diagonal riders.

Bob

Julian -

Thanks for the kind words.  I am glad that sharing my trials and processes is useful to others.  I will be happy to send along a copy of the spreadsheet and I have PMed you concerning that.

Thanks,

Bob

I looked through my photos and found some shots of the knee arrangement on the gun deck and the orlop deck.  It sounds like you have already captured that information.  The other thing I noted was long diagonal braces (I think Henry called them riding beams) at the lowest level of the ship.   They were introduced to deal with the hogging that was always a plague to ship builders.  Henry said that even after two hundred years, there is almost no deflection in the keel on Constitution.  I also have a pic of the capstan on the gun deck that shows some of the detail of the pawls.  Probably not useful to you ssince you are not adding the gun deck

Bob

Interesting box art.  I wonder if the JD is used as a finish, or something to drink while commiserating over the kits shortcomings.  I had a tour of the ship in August - if you'd like I will look through my photos and see if there is anything that might be useful to the kit-bash.  I will be following along as well.

Bob

Wow, Ed, just wow.  I showed the Admiral the last photo taken through the viewport and she said "look at those knees"... I guess that tour of Constitution Popeye2sea gave us really paid off!  Incredible work, sir. Looking forward to more updates!

Bob

Correct - 1:48 would be 33% larger.  I'd love to see what you could do at that scale.  The MS plans have lots of details that could be brought out at that scale!

Bob

Funny how life gets in the way of our hobby - it'll be nice to see you moving forward again - she has turned out really well to this point!

Bob

Alex -

The Black Queen certainly turned out very nicely.  I say 'great job' to you and Anthony,  I think the cherry baseboard adds an interesting touch - almost looks like the ship is sailing over the waves if you look at it just right.  Congratulations on a job well done!

Bob

I'm not sure where that advice came from.  I can only tell you that I didn't add anything to the keel former when I was at that stage of the build, and I had no trouble with  cutting the rabbet or getting the planks to lay into it.  Since nothing was addded, there was no need to extend the stern post.

I strongly suggest you start a build log and post some pictures so we can see what you are up to - it will also help as questions and problems come up in the build (and they will )  2130 has been a fun and challenging kit, well worth the effort.

Bob

Sam - that is one good looking hull.  I just love those clipper lines.  I like the paint choices you have made too.  That red stripe certainly dresses her up.  Did I mention that the coppering jobs looks nice and clean too?  Thanks for sharing.

Bob

Nice to meet you too Sam - maybe we can do a face-to-face at the NRG conference in Mystic next year!

For posting photos I refer you to this article, which is much better than me trying to explain it all.  I don't know if the subject of posting from an iphone is covered but it probably is somewhere in the 7 pages of conversation on the subject.  If not if you post the question there, someone will surely respond in short order.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/540-how-to-add-pictures-in-your-posts-and-pms/

I hope this helps - looking forward to seeing those FF photos.

Bob