bhermann

Thanks for the demonstration, Eric.  Now there is yet another possibility to consider. I like the construction method that follows actual practice this closely.

Bob

8 hours ago, roach101761 said:

Just to add another method.   A member of my club developed a method where he  printed the sails with an iron transfer technique for his Diana.  It was a very good result.

Details, please, Phil.  You are just teasing us with this one

For instance, what is the sail being printed on?  What kind of cloth is being used?, What is the scale of the build?  Anything else we all need to know?  And of course, photos of the result, and if possible, the process.

Just hungry for detail on a fascinating (to me) topic.

Thanks,

Bob

Chuck (and the other Administrators too)

Thanks for researching the possibilities on this subject and for presenting the options clearly.  I like the option to restore the delete function and appreciate the safety net put in place to protect us from destroying our logs inadvertently.  Hopefully the trial period will go well and this will be able to be maintained.

Bob

PS:  thanks for pointing out where the preview function moved to.  I never thought to look anywhere other than where the button used to be.  What can I say, it is hard to shake off old training

On 2/21/2017 at 2:15 PM, Worldway said:

When I purchased the Bluenose from Model Shipways I also purchased the accompanying paint set. 

 

I had seen some bad reviews about Model Expo's paints.  However I'm not sure if the Model Expo's paints are the same as the Model Shipway's paints.

 

It was a small investment to get the paint.  I was more concerned about getting the colours right.  Should I go ahead and use this paint or should I throw my investment in the trash and go another route.  I plan on using a brush and not airbrushing.  If in fact this paint is not recommended, is there something I can do (use thinners etc) to still use it.

 

Your comments would be most appreciated.

FWIW, I tossed the Model Shipways paints and went with Testors Model Masters acrylics, applied using a brush.  At the time the MS paints were thick and chunky, and I fell back on what I was comfortable with from my old plastic days.

Bob

Capt. Jack - I used Testors Model Master acrylics in painting Bluenose.  Four colors - Insignia Red, Blue Angels Yellow, Flat Black, and Flat White.  I did prime and sand the surfaces before applying final coats.

I recommend flat paints as they tend to scale better.  Gloss paints will pop, but to my eye they look a bit unrealistic.

Bob

Perhaps gathered is too strong a term.  I think what I read was a reference to about an inch of slack canvas per yard when sewing on the foot rope and about three inches per yard on the leech rope.  I know that probably doesn't make a bit of difference at scale, but I was wondering if anyone had ever tried it out.

Henry - I can visualize what you are describing here - now I have yet one more thing to consider!  That should put me in analysis paralysis for the foreseeable future

I like what you are suggesting, and think it could solve some of the problems getting scale sails to look right.

Bob

Congratulations, Jerry, she certainly graces the space very nicely.  An excellent job on a fine ship.

Your comment about abandoning the practicum too late resonates with me.  It was very useful to me in building up the frame and hull of my first wooden model, but it held me back when working on the deck furnishings.  If I had it to do again...

The Red Ensign looks very nice - I may contact the same source when I get to that point.

Well done!

Bob

Congratulations, Russ, on completion of a fine model.  The image showing all the sails emphasizes the amount of canvas that could be put up on these working boats.  It has been quite a journey - thanks for sharing it with us.  Beautiful work!

Bob

Dave - for future reference, I recall breaking the U-shaped piece of the fife rail during construction.  I solved the problem by gluing a piece of paper to the underside to put it back together.  The fix worked and was surprisingly rigid. It also took paint well.  Just an idea to put in your toolbox for possible future use - a way to strengthen the structure without adding a lot of thickness.

Your work on fixtures and fittings continues to be the best I have seen on any Bluenose.  Your attention to detail is paying off!

Bob

Looking very nice, Jerry.  Congratulations on a job well done!  Good job on those finishing details.

About the flag, if your kit is the same as mine, the flag that came with it is the Maple Leaf flag, which didn't come into use until well after the Bluenose's career was over.  I believe the Red Ensign might be more appropriate for her era.  Check out this wikipedia article:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canadian_Red_Ensign

Looking forward to seeing her mounted and cased.  Of course, as always, she is your ship, fly whatever flag you like! 

Bob

Great detail and attention.  I love the final version you came up with.

Bob

Hi Dave, I was happy to find your log this morning.  I have read through and am reliving some of those moments I went through while working those sections.  A 3d printer part for the scrollwork - what a great idea!  And you executed it well.

I will be following along from here - keep up the good work!

Bob

Jerry

I'm not sure how I missed the first few months of your log, but I am in to see what turns up next.  Your work is looking very good, and I will enjoy following along.  My own Bluenose is languishing at the moment due to focus on a different hobby, but I will get back into the shipyard someday.

I enjoyed looking through your log and discovering another Bluenose in the works.

Bob

Nice finish to an excellent build, Julian,  Congratulations on a job well done!

Bob

The Minwax product I used on my dowels is called "Pre-stain Wood Conditioner" (I just read the can).  I wiped that on with a rag, waited 15 minutes, then applied Minwax Wood Finish.  It made for a very even stain - check the photos in my log to see the result. 

The color I used was "Special Walnut".  I was going for a darker finish to make it look like the masts had been "slushed" to allow mast hoops to slide up and down.

Bob

I'm not dead yet!  I'm not making any progress on Bluenose at the moment, but she is still sitting next to me waiting for some attention.  In part I am doing my over-analyzing thing about how to do the sails, and freezing in place while that goes on.  I am also rekindling my life-long dream of doing astrophotography (if you think wooden ship modelling is a money sucker, try AP sometime) and am at a point there that requires a lot of energy to get better.

I still stop in to MSW on an almost daily basis and am keeping an eye on you all.  EdT's Young America continues to amaze, and I am enjoying watching Chuck build up Syren Ship Modelling, and many of the other activities here. When I get off the dime and decide to move forward with old Blue, I will start posting in the log again.

Bob

Very nice, Jim.  Love watching the inner planets and Moon whipping around while the outer planets plod through their orbits.  Nice build of an interesting project!

Bob

Thanks for likes everyone. I'll post a video tomorrow of it working, just go back from my stag.

 

Also just received the first new parts for the second model in the series, which is a luminary and looks excellent.

 

John - not sure where you are but often kits are sold on eBay in partial or complete sets.

 

Druxey - it will eventually have its own dedicated shelf put up but I don't think a case will be made as the circumference of the model is enormous!

There's a second model in the series?  They are killing me!

Looking forward to seeing the video.

Bob

Sweet - I can't wait to see the operating model.  Very nice indeed.

Bob

Nice detail Julian.  This looks nice and clean.  Very well done indeed!

One question - it looks to me like the green light is mounted on the port side, is that correct?  In the States the red light is usually port, and green is mounted on the starboard side.  I don't know if different countries use different rules.

Bob

Barbara

On sheet 5 of the MS plans, the details of the flying backstays show the lower end connects to an eyebolt in the transom.  There are two eyebolts on each side, I'm not sure whether the inner or outer one is used, my best guess is the outer, with the inner one used for the boom tackle.  The tackle that runs between the backstay blocks belays to pin 44 on the starboard side and pin 45 on the port side.

Bob

That is some amazing work, Bruce.  Very clean and crisp.  Good to have you back, and happy you got the picture thing sorted out.

Bob

Barbara

I agree with Russ about the size to use - using the smallest size available to you will maintain scale integrity better than the larger sizes.  Out of curiosity, which kit are you building?

As an alternative the rope that Chuck sells at Syren Ship Modelling is far superior to what was provided in the Models Shipways kit.  You may be able to get sizes that come closer to the plans and allow you to create a more accurate representation.  The look and feel of Chucks product is fabulous and a good upgrade, in my opinion.

Bob

While responding to a PM, I visited the Nova Scotia archive web page to check on a couple of things... and found that it had moved.  It has been a great resource for me when working the little details, so I thought I'd put the new link in here:

https://novascotia.ca/archives/bluenose/

I know it has been a long time since I've done anything on this build, but life (and other hobbies) have been taking up much of my time over the last few years.  On the plus side, I am wrapping up three years as chair of the Board of Deacons at my church at the end of May, and am hoping that will give me some time to get this going again in earnest.  Of course there is always the granddaughter to spoil, astrophotography to work on, etc., etc., etc.

Thanks for your patience with me, and for sharing all your experiences in this hobby - MSW is s a great place to help keep the interest alive!

Bob

Jan-Willem

I think your versions of the deck structures look much more realistic than the ones provided by Billings, and are definitely worth the effort.  If you ever want measurements from the Model Shipways plans, let me know and I'll be happy to take some for you.  You'll have to convert them from 1:64 to 1:75 scale.

About the long time between sessions, I guess that is the price we pay for having a life in addition to a hobby.  It has been over a year since I have been able to do any work on my Bluenose build, so I understand your frustration.  All I can say is work on it when you can, but don't fret about it when you can't.  The project will be there when you have time to spend on it.

Keep up the good work and please share your progress as time permits.

Bob