bhermann

Bob:
That is good work. Very impressive save.
 
Russ

Hi Per - I have Chucks rope ready to go.  As of now only the bowsprit is rigged.  I made up my own turnbuckles for this from the kit supplied brass strip and wire.  I used speaker wire for the footropes as I couldn't see how to get thread to drape properly.,  I did use thread for the stirrups.  Other than that, it's all standard stuff.
 
I'll be getting back to Bluenose at some point - ATM I am working out some bothersome details on my astrophotography setup and am not spending any time in the shipyard.
 
Bob

Still out here, but no work on the Bluenose.  I have taken on a different ship-related project for now.  Following in Caroline's (VulcanBomber) footsteps, I am working on a counted cross stitch image of a ship sailing past some rocks.  I have been at it since January, and am less than 1/2 way through.
 
Bluenose continues to wait patiently, sitting next to me on  the desk, being admired and thought about fairly regularly...
 
Bob

An update - not new build stuff, rather this is about when I may resume.  I am close to setting a retirement date at the end of 2021/beginning of 2022.  Since I originally took up model ship building as something I would be able to do after the working days were done, it seems fitting that resumption be tied to that event. 
 
Bluenose is still sitting quietly on the workbench (in her Lands End cradle), patiently awaiting my attention.  The time is coming!
 
Bob

About 2/3 planked.  The starboard side will only be partially planked - the small bits are spacers while I tinker with the layout.
 

 

 

Anyway... rant over.
Here’s some pics of initial build phases.
Bulkhead numbers 4 and 8 both required some adjustment to get them to slot far enough down into the false keel, and also the forward mast stabiliser required some sanding to get it flush the deck and stop it from causing the deck to be wavy. 

Hello there ... again?
It's been ... oh, maybe 35 years? Back then I called Merritt Edson a friend, mentor, critic, source and, on more than one occasion, a savior.
Recently, I started opening old boxes - lots of old boxes - and was greeted by the smell of wood and loads of everything ship modelling and nautical history from a lifetime ago. I was a goner. Now, there's a two-year-old great niece who doesn't yet know that there's a Grand Banks schooner with her name on it. Literally.The launch is, hopefully, the week after Christmas, if I can wipe my rust off fast enough.
By the way, I'm doing my old Model Shipways Benjamin W. Latham, 1/8 scale, waterline, with (hopefully) some custom details and scratch-built deck fittings and structures like the old days - again, if I can wipe my rust off.
You'll be hearing from me.
It's good to be back.
Regards,
Rick Menapace

Hull planking - was done mostly in my lap.  (What can I say, I didn't know any better!) 
 
Bob

Finally another update. I finished rigging the guns at the bow. I also finished the pin racks and installed some cleats. Time to move toward the stern and rig the guns as well as install the pin racks. There are another 16 guns to rig and twelve pin racks to build so this may take me a while. 😏
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 323 – Wrapping Up
 
Finally, 99.999% means complete.  Since the last post it has been a lot of little chores: snipping rope ends, the last few rope coils, touching up with paint, waxing standing rigging lines, clean up, etc.  Some of the "major" chores are described below.
 
The first picture shows the final disposition of the crojack sheets and tacks.  These were simply allowed to hang free from the clue garnet blocks with their full lengths coiled on deck.  They were tied down to one of the beams under the pile of rope coils to keep them vertical and straight..
 

 
The main braces could finally be run, since access was no longer needed to the deck area between the main and mizzen masts.  The next picture shows the starboard brace pendant shackled to the outer boomkin eye.
 

 
The fall of the brace runs from the yard pendant through the lead block on the rail in the center of the picture, then to a deck cleat.  The other blocks on the boomkin are the upper and lower main topsail braces.  Two missing eyebolts still need to be fitted on the rail. The picture also shows the completion of another chore left over from the volume II work, fitting chains to support the boomkins.  The next picture shows both of these.
 

 
The next picture shows the starboard swinging boom, the lower studding sail boom,  being lashed to the fore channel brackets. 
 
 
The alternative would be to store these on the skid beams over the cabin, but this seemed more appropriate, since in port these were often used to moor ships' boats.
 
The next picture shows the model with the dust case removed in the relatively cleaned-up workshop.
 

 
Finally, launch.
 

Please excuse the amateur artwork.  Couldn't resist.
 
Ed

Thanks Stevinne, Rich, Popeye, Jonathan, Todd, Capt Steve, K, Dan and the likes.
 
As for heirloom, I hope one of my kids wants this once I am dead and gone. I wouldn't blame them if they didn't, but hopefully they will find a good home for it. Let's hope that won't be a problem for many, many years.
 
K - keep up the great work on your Connie. You are doing a great job on it and your build log is excellent too.
 
Dan - I really enjoyed your articles in the NRG Journal on building QA's Revenge. Your are as talented a writer as you are a modeler.
 
A couple of last pictures that I took last night after dark. I was really curious how the LEDs would look and I was very happy with the result. We started calling this the Museum Room last night.
 

A bit better image to show the raging sea.

Hi all. Having finished the Cape Byron lighthouse and the M24D Hind helicopter, and still waiting on my next kit, I'm making the other 3 lighthouses that came with the first. These won't take long, so I hope my other kit turns up soon. Here are pics of the three :
 
Tacking Point, Port Macquarie :

Hornby - Watson's Bay, Sydney :

Cape Green, Eden :

 
First up is the Tacking Point lighthouse near Port Macquarie NSW. It was built in 1879 and was the 4th of five lighthouses built around that time on the NSW mid-north coast of similar design. More information can be found by clicking HERE.
 
I'm going to donate it to the Port Macquarie Maritime Museum so it can keep company with my HMS Vulture, which I donated to the Museum several years ago. They have a cabinet full of models built in unusual ways, but as far as I know this will be the first one made from paper.
 
I've actually finished this one already - it took me 2 1/2 days. Here is a pic of most of the parts, some of which I've already prepared :

 
I reinforced the base with a few card strips :

 
The utility building :

 
The dome for the light. The additional card in the middle is a method I've used for previous domes - it makes it much easier to glue :


 
The completed model :





 
Danny

Bob, 
Thank you, you certainly inspired me with your build log.

An update - not new build stuff, rather this is about when I may resume.  I am close to setting a retirement date at the end of 2021/beginning of 2022.  Since I originally took up model ship building as something I would be able to do after the working days were done, it seems fitting that resumption be tied to that event. 
 
Bluenose is still sitting quietly on the workbench (in her Lands End cradle), patiently awaiting my attention.  The time is coming!
 
Bob

I received this as a Christmas gift last year and recently decided to give it a shot.  The model comes packaged in a 6"x6" box and works up into a 5 1/2" model stem to stern.
 

 
The materials consist of two steel sheets with all parts attached via sprues.  Construction is of the "insert tab a in slot b" type.  The tabs can be folded over or twisted 90 degrees to lock the parts together.  Steps are laid out in a series of diagrams - no text here.
 

 
Tools used for construction - a wire cutter to cut parts loose (some have three attachment points and I cut one before twisting the parts loose) and a needlenose plier to fold or twist the tabs to lock in place.
 

 
The order of steps is logical and I was able to follow with no deviation.  Here is a shot of the underside that shows several of the tabs twisted and locked in place.
 

 
A few shots of the finished model follow.  The pieces were not dangerously sharp, but I wouldn't recommend this for younger kids.  I was thinking about getting one to build with my 7 year old granddaughter, but I think I'll hold off on that.  I have a paper pirate ship I picked up a few years ago - we may start there.
 



 
A size comparison with my Bluenose in progress
 

 
and the model in it's display location atop my monitor.  We'll see if the cat allows that to continue.
 

 
Overall the model went together well.  The pieces were strong enough to take some flexing, the assembly plan was logical (although a third hand would be useful at some points), and the completed model holds together well.  In short it was just the thing to help me keep my hand in model building, while I continue in my Bluenose doldrums.  It's a fun little project that takes a short amount of time and provides completion satisfaction quickly.  Now I can say I have a completed build!
 
Bob
 

I hear you Bob. Unfortunately I have also had to learn that one has to think in years here, rather than days or weeks...
Since we built our house 3 years ago my Bluenose is also patiently awaiting better times...
It is what it is. I look forward to seeing more of your work, knowing that this seems far away now but will be there before I know it. 😉

Hi BigJ and welcome to the Bluenose club.  My recollection of those filler blocks is that I traced the cross sections from the plans onto the sides and end of the blocks and removed the excess material with a coping saw, then glued them in place and finished shaping them as part of the bulkhead fairing process.  Of course this all happened 12 years ago, so there is no guarantee that is exactly how it went down.
 
My advice is to take a deep breath, take your time and work the excess away slowly.  And always remember - it is wood, if things get too bad, you can always remove what you've done and start over with new filler blocks
 
Bob

LOL - if you do order the tap and die set make sure to get both RH and LH threads - so you can make those working turnbuckles!
 
I am not at a complete standstill - in fact my mind is going 200 mph, even though the build itself is crawling.  I did manage to finish making and cutting out the templates for the sail set.  Don't know if I'll use the fisherman sail, but I have it if needed.  I may add a third reef band to the mainsail - it seems too large not to have the option.
 
The sails laid out:
 

 
and where they are going to:
 

 
A closer look at the destination.  I see the mast hoops are too thick, but I have to remember I have a few extras on the mast in case of breakage.
 

 
Still working out the details of sail construction in my mind.  I am pretty clear on drawing the hem lines, not stitching them.  I am debating on whether to fold the hems over and glue them, or to get an iron-on edge and trim that to the actual sail size.  Anyway, here are a couple of shots of where I am at the moment.
 
Bob

Jan-Willem
 
Here are the photos you requested.  Hope it helps.  That solid block you see runs all the way to the stem where it wraps around the bowsprit.
 

 
I think the stanchion count is accurate.   I suspect that not every frame is continued above the deck so the number of stanchions is less than the number of frames.
 
Enjoy, and let me know if I can share anything else with you.
 
Bob

Capt. Jack - I used Testors Model Master acrylics in painting Bluenose.  Four colors - Insignia Red, Blue Angels Yellow, Flat Black, and Flat White.  I did prime and sand the surfaces before applying final coats.
 
I recommend flat paints as they tend to scale better.  Gloss paints will pop, but to my eye they look a bit unrealistic.
 
Bob

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 299 – Crojack Yard 4
 
This part will wrap up the rigging work on the lower mizzen yard – aka the Crojack.  The last lines to be installed were the bowlines.  These were used to control the windward leech of the sail when the yards were braced at an angle.  They consisted of three parts each:  the 3" bowline, itself, a 3" lizard" about 25' long, with bullseyes spliced into each end, and one or more "bridles".  The single starboard bridle is shown in the first picture.
 

 
This is about 20' long and also 3".  The splices at the ends of this would be fastened to the bowline cringles on the sail, but since there are no sails on this model, the bridle is tied off to the jackstay where it could be cut loose and tied to the cringles when "bending" the sail to the yard.  The picture shows the upper bullseye of the starboard lizard. The the full length of the  lizard is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows both bowlines installed, with arrows to help see the parts of the lines.
 

 
The standing end of each bowline is secured to the lower part of the mizzen topmast stay, passes up through the lower lizard bullseye, and finally belays on the outer arm of the main mast fife rail. 
 
The last two pictures show the fully-rigged crojack at this stage.
 

 
The loose chains hanging from the ends of the yard are the lower topsail sheets that will be connected to the clew lines when that yard is rigged.
 
 

 
So, as I mentioned in one of the responses, this is the seventh spar to be rigged, with another dozen to go – most being simpler, however.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 298 – Crojack Yard 3
 
In the first picture, the yard has been permanently hung on its truss, the sling chain fastened to the mast, and the two triple tackles for the lower topsail yard sheets rigged.  These are shown in the first picture. 

 
The tackles are fixed to the sheet chains with wire shackles, formed in place.  At the lower ends the blocks are hooked to deck eyebolts.  The tackle falls pass through sheaves in the sheet bitts and will be belayed on pins through those bitts.  The next picture shows the two yard braces with their pendants.
 

 
I am installing the mizzen braces as each yard is rigged because they run forward toward the center and should not interfere with later rigging access like those on the forward masts that run outboard.  Those are being deferred until later.  In the picture the two pendants are threaded on to a wire that will form the common shackle by which they are secured to an eyebolt on the main mast.  The next picture shows that shackle being formed.
 

 
To make the shackle, the wire is passed through the eyebolt from both sides.  A single overhand loop in the wire is then pulled tight through the eyebolt to simulate a shackle.  The wire will later be painted black.  The braces are spliced to eyes in the block straps as shown in the previous photo.  The lines then run through blocks shackled to eyes at the yard arm, back through the pendant blocks and are belayed on the main mast fife rail below.  The next picture shows the run of the two braces.
 

 
The next picture shows the brace connection at the yardarm.  The blocks are shackled to the forward band eyebolts on each side as shown below.
 

 
The next lines on this yard to be rigged were the clue garnets with their sheet blocks, tacks and lazy tacks attached, followed by the bunt and leech lines. These are virtually identical in configuration to their counterparts on other masts that were described in earlier posts.  They may be seen in the next photo.
 

 
The clue garnet blocks are positioned by temporary belaying of the tacks and lazy tacks.  This will be adjusted later when the sheets are rigged.   These, along with most other outer rigging is being deferred until later to maximize access.  The next picture shows the bunt and leech line blocks on the yards and hooked under the top. 
 

 
These six lines pass through fairleads on the lower shrouds, then belay on the main pin rails port and starboard.  The reef tackles were then rigged, one of which is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The standing end of the reef tackle is spliced to an eye on the yardarm block that is shackled to the bottom eye on the yard arm band.  It then passes through a block tied off to the jackstay as shown, then back through the outer block, inward to the double quarter block on this side, then down to the fife rail.  This picture also shows a close view of the shackled brace block and the shackled topping lift pendant on the top eye of the band.  The loosely hanging chain is the lower topsail sheet that will be rigged later.
 
Whew!  These descriptions are like a rewrite of the rigging list.
 
Next, the bowlines.
 
Ed

Ed, observing the log since long and building YA following your plans and books. Its a great pleasure to see the model coming up slowly. Currently I started with the main deck. All parts are prepared and assembling will start tomorrow. Your standard is very hard to meet.