bhermann

I think  I've found it! Pages 66 and 67 of Jenson's book Contain drawings of the original 1921  Bluenose. On the port side next to the ships wheel is a round object On page 67 in the color scheme drawing  the same object is identified  as "Lazaret Hatch Cover (grey)"  Certainly  a small  and a rather uncomfortable access to a dank and damp area. It looks as if they improved on it sizewise on the II.
  Kip

Hi Nigel! Thank you for the warm welcome! And thank you for a great post!
 
For me, once I start walking through the build, I see it as if I too were 1/64th scale. My imagination can see every mortise and tendon. I can smell the aroma of wood being worked. I can feel my thickened hands wrapped around every tree nail as I set them with my beech wood mallet.
 
My chisels, they are sharp and cut true, a relationship with the wood that rings like Mozart through the shipyard. Each day is like a first date. Time stands still until suddenly the night is over. I walk through her one last time. Lantern held high, my eyes trace her lines as the shadows frame her beauty. My chest grows tight, I am in love.
 
Each day I spend with her she grows in her splendor. She is a princess of the best stock. Each plank and beam hand picked for her approval. Every man that looks upon her, if he's worth his salt, can't help but feel as I do.
 
Nothing is rushed, I simply don't want it to end. Someday she will leave my shipyard. All that I can do is make sure every detail has been given it's proper time, so she is prepared to survive an uncertain world...
 
 
 
Passion is Patience...and I am a carpenter at any scale
 
 
Bill Hime

Thank you Anja for your efforts in this, and thank you Sjors for both agreeing for this to be done and for staying the course through this difficult time.  I look forward to the resumption of your log, and the continuation of my friendship with you both.

Here again some pictures of the progress here is the serviceroom has also been completed, and we will continue with the wheelhouse and we almost reached the highest point.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Well I'm starting a new build log.  I know I have a Syren I haven't touched, and a Satisfaction that needs a complete redo.  Well they're going to have to wait.  I've come to a couple conclusions recently that have lead me to decide on the build and the method for the build.  Point one my time is limited.  I got a lot of life going on so I've decided it's about time I build a ship for myself.  I've always had an interest for the QAR and that interest was sparked again by this guy Queen Anne's Revenge by Shipmodel.  If you haven't seen his log check it out Dan's doing some great work.  In any case I'm going to build a ship I have some interest in because this time I'm not selling it to Pirates or trading it to Spanish Ladies for bonsai.  (If you want to know what that means check out my Santa Maria and Mercury build links in my signature.)  This time I'm keeping it.  
 
Second point.  I was inspired by DFellingham's build the Esmeralda (also a great log) to build a the long boat of the Mercury out of paper using a wood plug.  It came out nicely.  
 

 
Since then I have been contemplating the idea of building a full ship using this method.  Now I'm going to put this idea into action.  This will be only the second time I've tried this so if it totally fails the first few times stick with me.  I've had two builds now that flopped on me after the first few posts and I must say it's embarrassing.  Lucky for me your all good sports.  
 
Also to add to the time constraints point this build has a specific dead line.  I found that I have a break between my school semesters from Nov 24th to December 9th.  So while I have more time not having to do home work I get to build.     Also since I have such a tight deadline I can't worry about to many details so this build is going to me small....
 

 
This is the plug I'm going to use.  The ship will actually be made of paper stained with wood stain and cut into little tiny strips.  The plug is covered in wax and the paper stips glued on like planks.  After the glue dries the ship comes off the plug.  The tricky part will be adding the masts, spars, rigging and sails.  Will I try ratlines this time?  ......most likely.     
 
 
 

I have made numerous seizings on the strop or line that goes around a block. The cannon riggings on my USS Constitution is one example. There are twenty-two guns with four blocks each. Lots of time to practice.
 
I put a short video clip together for those interested in my approach.

 

 
Of course, there are many other places where this seizing is used. The top of shrouds as they go around the mast is another one. There are also variations to the 'common whipping', but in all cases the idea is the same.

Jaws - let me know when you have photos up and what you need help with - I'd be glad to assist.
Gulfmedic - thanks so much
 
Everyone, since this log is essentially complete I've deleted a number of the "comments" that didn't add to the build including a bunch of "nice jobs"  I definitely appreciate the conversation and the atta boys but since this log is now more for historical purposes for any builder who looks to make a transitional, solid hull, or this exact ship I thought it might help them get to the "meat" of the content faster. Please do not feel slighted if your compliment was removed - I re-read each of them and I was touched by the thoughtfulness behind each. Again I'm just trying to make this better for postarity sake.
 
I know I haven't been around for awhile but I've made some TINY progress on my Krabbenkutter. You will see updates soon. Promise.

Some progress, not a lot to look at though.
 
First, I hooked up my dremel to the prop shaft to see how much water she will push. At about 5000 rpm there was not a lot of thrust but at 15 it was like a speed boat. I am thinking that my reduction gearbox motors are going to be way too slow so I will try removing the gearboxes or something once I have the hull sealed and can float her.
 

 
Upper and lower stringers fitted and veneer to outside edge of keel attached. Next step is to add the veneers to the sides of the keel to create the rabbet.
 

 

Gil,
Your Victory continues to amaze me. Shows how much I have to learn. Your log is another practicum for us mortals, thank you for the photos and posts.
 
Dave B

Hello Shipmates.
 Thanks for your kind words Jeff
Another few photos with the Orlop deck fitted into its position. Not yet glued as I have the top surface to sand and clean up.
 

 
Approx 5mm to trim off the pump house.

 
Temporary spacer plank to mark the amount I need to remove from pump house height.

 
View looking down onto deck.

 
Thanks for looking in
 
Regards Antony.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 24 – Forward Cant Frames
 
 
American Clipper Note: American Clippers not only sailed fast, they were built fast.  Impatient customers demanded it.  A yard would normally launch two from the same slip in a year.  Many were built in close to three months time and one 200-footer, John Bertram, in 61 days.  There were a number of reasons for this productivity.  First there was increased division of labor and the creation of trades.  Gone was the all-around shipwright in favor of gangs for specific tasks.  Steam driven machinery was widely deployed.  McKay, and perhaps other large yards, used steam driven bevel-saws that could be adjusted to the angle of the frame bevel while running.  This alone cut frame fabrication time by a factor of six, using but three men.  Steam derricks were used to raise frames and other heavy timbers, vs. a common practice of everyone dropping what they were doing to lend a hand.  Making treenails was no longer a rainy day make-work job done manually with axes and spoke shaves.  Instead treenails were rapidly turned out in by steam driven lathes.
 
 Back in the model shop, the all-around shipwright plods along.
 
The first picture shows the most forward cant frames being assembled.  Exactly the same pin-indexed alignment method is being used.
 

 
After assembling these roughed out pieces, the frames are beveled and the patterns removed.  The sidings of the upper futtocks are then reduced and the bolts installed.
 
In the next picture this has been done and the starboard frame is being fitted up into the mortise cut for it earlier.
 

 
Some paring of the mortise sides and bottom was done to neatly fit the frame.  In the next picture, the clamping has been set up in preparation for gluing the frame in.
 

 
The clamps were then removed, glue was applied and the clamps replaced.  After drying, the clamps were removed, the frames faired and the six iron bolts into the deadwood installed, as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Stem supports had to be removed for much of this work – usually one side at a time.  In the next picture the port frame has been installed and is being faired with a flat riffler, followed by sanding.
 

 
No project is without rework.  I have normally been making toptimbers from smaller 9-inch stock so these very visible members will be consistently sized - unlike lower timber sidings that have been filed or machined back after pattern removal.  In the case of these first cant frames, this reduced siding at the top left a small gap at the adjoining hawse timbers that can be seen in the last two pictures.  This was an oversight when I lofted the frames.  Rather than delay the erection, I decided to install the frames, then replace the toptimbers - before the glue had set overnight.  The next picture shows the starboard toptimber being removed with the aid of a razor blade in the glue joint.
 

 
No glue was applied on the forward side of this piece, so it was easy to separate with light taps along the joint.  The next picture shows the piece being removed, essentially intact.
 

 
In this picture the port side toptimber has been removed and not yet replaced. 
In the last picture the new larger top timbers have been installed and the joints with the hawse timbers closed up. 
 

 
Installation of the forward half frames has been suspended until all of the cants are in place – to leave room for that work.
 
 
Ed

Thanks for the comments, currently build is ahead of post so trying to take pictures, write log and also get used to using the site! Added 'second' part below hopefully.
 
The sapele veneer for the planking comes in pre-cut very thin sheets. I found that the cut edges are tapered so care has to be taken otherwise gaps appear when sanded due to the taper and reduced thickness. Each strip either needs sanding square on the edge, easier if bent slightly while sanding,or lay alternative planks inverted so that the tapered edges interlock. This turned out to be the better alternative as if dry fitted first it becomes clear which way round they need to fit
 

 
Deckhouses currently built as per plan but to assist building them square, as several parts are glued together, used  balsa wood sheet cut to internal size and built deckhouse around this. The rear deckhouse has an extension at front which does not appear in any of the plans I have, only realised this after building and completing the decking, currently two choices, to either modify stern deckhouse and decking or leave, haven’t decided yet which route to take, but gave decking a sanding and varnished it with matt antique pine so need to be careful that any alterations blend in
 

 
‘Copper Sheathing’ consists of sheets 200mm x 98.4mm, each plate being 16 mm x 6.15 mm giving a real size of 4.75 ft x 1.8 ft, of what are said to be copper but appear to be possibly thin brass. Per instructions, a first strip of 4 tiles is fitted at the waterline and then the rest covered in large sheets toothed to interlock . I’m not sure how this actually works as the hull has compound curves against a flat sheet of metal. I did test to test fit these but gave up  I have therefore cut the sheets into individual tiles as this appeared to be the best way of getting them around the curves and also easier to work with. However got to decide how to glue them on
 

 
Gunwales are added using pre-cut 3 ply stern and prow sections and straight 5 mm strip in between. I ditched the pre-cut ply and edge glued two sections of spare strip together and after tracing round the bow and stern made the curved sections out of this.
 

 
The centre section was bend after soaking on my cutting plank. This is a spare piece of laminate flooring which I have found ideal for cutting on. The hull outline was drawn on it and then the soaked strip over bent to the correct shape (as it tends to lose some of its bend on release) bulldog clips, masking tape and any bits of spare wood hold in place. A bit crude but works well, best to select a strip that appears to bend more easily across its width and give a good soaking in water, wipe of excess water and clamp up. Scrap wood etc. can be used to hold in place
 

 
 

Hi Pete, Glad to hear you are enjoying it.
 
Hi Bob,
 
I wondered the same thing about the upper and lower planking but they are different widths
so the majority of the planks overlap. It looks like that all but one plank on each side will be
an overlap. Once I cut the planks and add the construction paper I’ll know for sure. As far as
assembly of the second planking I will do it off model. I plan on using lengths just long enough
to get into the circle and then cut it close with the scroll saw and finish with a drum sander.  
 
Again that’s the “plan”.
 
As far as mouse world goes thanks for the hint. We always try to avoid the weekends whenever
possible. Especially this being a holiday weekend.
 
Well the Admiral is waiting so it’s Hi Ho Hi Ho and out the door I must go.  

Hi – this was purchased as a skill leaning exercise prior to finishing my Billing’s Cutty Sark version and was purchased through Ebay as was cheap with some parts missing.
 
No pictures of early stages as never thought of taking any!
 
I will detail the changes I made/make as it may be of help to other new builders. If anyone has comments always welcome as first time I've posted to ant forum
 
The model was published in weekly/monthly parts sent through the post. Not sure how people got on with actually building it on this basis, as having all of the building instructions to go through prior to starting is helpful as the build sequence and instructions are vague in many places and also after mounting the masts and yards holes need to be drilled in these to attach other parts. Difficult as the yard being drilled is attached to the mast and unsupported.
 
Although expensive if bought on a monthly basis this would result in the project being broken down into small manageable parts with no confusion as to what is the correct part to use for where and also step by step instructions, useful for other projects as well.
 
Recommendations before building would be:-
To go through all building instructions to get an understanding of how the build progresses and work out what needs completing before a part is attached. Obtain a copy of Harold G Underhill’s Cutty Sark plans, as recommended by other members on this site. I purchased mine from Royal Museums Greenwich (£14.50 for 3 plans including postage), but also managed to download a set for free from the internet. Don’t rush, make sure that the parts fit correctly prior to gluing. To obtain a really detailed scale model a lot of additional work will be required to most parts, but if built as per instructions will give a good representation of the Cutty Sark plus a lot of building experience gained. To assist with rigging suggest obtain copy of the Revell 1/96 rigging instructions (available on the internet) as these give a lot clearer understanding of the various rigging parts and where they go. To date the problems encountered have been:-
Hull developed a twist in building despite following planking instructions. Would suggest that anyone building it adds additional bracing between the frames, making sure that masts can still be mounted, I would suggest sheeting diagonally from keel to deck level. To form a triangle between deck and keel. Attached diagram just shows square timber, but the main frames appear to be set at a distance of 62mm so easier than if all frames at different distances. Certain liberties appear to have been taken to simplify the build. Two options are either ‘go with the flow’ or amend as per additional information obtained. Certain dimensions are not given so it’s either a bit of guess work or look for the information elsewhere, luckily I have the Billing’s plans for CS so have used them  
 
To date hull completed as per following picture:-

 
Hull was built as per instructions but would suggest that all of the keel is glued together prior to adding frames as care is needed to ensure that the hull remains square, filling in between frames as suggested above would stiffen structure up. The masts are kept in place on the keel by a square box, however I found that the position of these results in a vertical mast not canted backwards as is correct, easy fix for the foremast and mainmast is to leave out the front part of the box as this is against a frame and for the mizzenmast to once again leave out the front portion and glue a spare piece of material across the front of the sides, this will result in 3 rectangular boxes allowing front to rear movement
 
The hull was planked as per instructions but nails were only partially inserted and removed when glue set. Planks bend quite easily if soaked in water. For the planks around the stern planking was soaked in water, excess water dried off and the formed round jar with masking tape and elastic band. Careful shaping of stern and bow braces is required to ensure smooth flow of lines of planking.
 
One major error in the design, presumably for ease of construction, is that the fore and rear decks are flush with the top of the hull whereas the hull should extent above these slightly. Decks form part of the hull and sit on top of the frames so only easy solution would be to add a 2-3mm extension on top of the current planking all the way round.
Deck planking per instructions is cut to 12.5mm x 3mm lengths which does not fit the pictures of the build. I modified this and cut to 62.5mm x 3mm, which gives actual life size of plank of 18.5ft x 10.5inches. About right for length but twice the specification width, which was 5 inches.  I put a border plank around the outside of the hull and all main deck structures and then planked to these, but didn’t joggle the planks where these joined. Latter per the instructions the main deck planking is cut back by 2mm to add the bulwarks, which are 2mm thick, I moved the edge plank in on the main deck in by the 2mm to avoid trying to remove a thin strip after planking
 

 
I cut all planking using a balsa cutter which was useful as the surface was divided into 1.5mm strips so made measuring easy, as a stop could be set to get all planks equal length.
 

 
The bulwarks are pre-cut and require two strips joining together with a strengthening piece glued inside and then planked outside, and after fitting planked inside. After joining and planking the outside I cut off the strengthening piece to give a smooth surface inside.
 
 
Once hull planking completed I made a mixture of polyfiller, PVA glue and water to fill gaps etc. and then sanded to a smooth finish (shows as white in the photo). Adding too much PVA glue, as I found out, results in a very hard surface which is difficult to sand, ended up using a wood chisel in the end. Careful sanding at bow stern and where bulwark joins is required to obtain a flowing shape. A second layer of thin planking is added of either sapele veneer or ‘copper planking’ so finish after sanding does not need to be ultra-smooth.
 

 

This post is made thanks to Mark Taylor. I ran into trouble, unable to post photos when my IE 9 was upraged to IE 11.  Mark's note on posting caught my attention.  Then Joe (Wacko Wolf) noted that photos uploaded if one used Firefox.  I now post  using Firefox with no problem.  As most of you know, one can enlarge the photo by double clicking. Thanks Mark and Joe.
 
Still on the topgallant yard, the topgallant tye runs up and through the mast to a double block at the level of the topmast cap.  The tackle beginning at the fore top terminates with the falls extending to the Main top bowline bitts.
 

 
Next up, Clue lines.  The braces will be put off to later.  It's amazing how easily elbows, fingers, instruments, watches etc. get tangled in the rigging.  Oops! I generaly work with bare arms and slowly.
 
Cheers, Gil
 
 
 
 

Hello all,
 
Ever wanted to know what kits are available for 17th Century British Frigates?
 
How about what kits are beginner and which kits are advanced?
 
Worried about space and want an easy way to find out what ships are available which are a certain 
lenght or height?
 
 
Read on my friends, read on!
 
Since joining Model Ship World, I have continuously been impressed with the quality of its members and the level of help people get with their hobby.  It is incredibly refreshing to find a place where people of all skill levels and interests, from all over the world, can come together in one place and help, encourage and applaud the wonderful works which can be found from its members new and old.
 
There is one trend I have noticed, with regards to questions and requests for advice, and that is related to the kits themselves.  Questions regarding quality of kits, availability, types, subjects and overall level of difficulty.
 
We have great resources for that, several articles, build logs etc.;  but I got to thinking it may be helpful to have this information in one place.  Not to replace what is on MSW in its various forms, but to supplement it.
 
While not an expert modeler by any means yet, I am a code jockey =) and enjoy doing techy codey things (that is a technical term by the way), so I decided to try to put that to use.
 
This is to announce a project which I am working on and am making available as of tonight.
 
The Model Ship World Ship Kit Database
 
What is it?
 
Well, it is a database of Model Ship Kits.  A central repository for what is available out there along with as much data regarding each kit as I can scrape up.
 
Secondly, Model Ship World Ship Kit Database is a living project.  This basically means it is intended to grow and expand based on feedback and contribution from the model ship world membership.
 
What does it do?
 
Right now, it allows you folks to search for ships.   As of this evening you can search for available ships based on Manufacturer, Scale, Type of Kit, Type of Ship, Period of Ship and the Ships Nation of origin.
 
You can search for these ships based on one of the above criteria or build out the criteria to get as refined a search as you want.
 
So, for example, if you want to see all the ships Model Shipways Currently has available – you can do that.
 
If you want to find all the ship kits which are 19th Century French 1:64th scale Plank on Bulkhead Frigates – you can do that too.
 
Is that all that it does?
 
As of this evening, yes it does.  Is that all it will do? No.    I actually have big plans for this and was going to wait to announce it until much more was done.  However it will take a little time to get everything in so I wanted to “release” it in stages.  Mainly to get it out there and let people get some hands on it and start giving me feedback.   
 
The idea is to make this as useful to the MSW community as possible.  I think it is in a good starting point, but really want to hear from you guys regarding it so I can develop it over time to make it as great as it can be.
 
I can’t promise all suggestions will make it in, or that they will go in overnight, but this in my mind is for MSW so I look forward to collaboration and the discussions to do as best we can.
 
Where does it stand right now?
 
Currently I have identified the following manufacturers for inclusion in the database.  Some have their kits added while others are queued to be completed over the next week or so.
A.J Fisher: Data not started Artesania Latina: Data started, 80% complete Billings: Data not started Bluejacket Ship Crafters Inc.: Data Complete Caldecraft:Data not started Corel:Data not started Constructo:Data not started Dusek:Data not started Mamonli:Data started, test entries only Mantua Models UK:Data not started Midwest Prouducts:Data Complete Model Shipways:Data Complete OcCre: Data started, test entries only.  
You said there was a lot planned so what else is there?
 
I am so glad you asked
 
Not only is this meant to be a list of what is available but it is also a place where people can come and find out about the ships.   Here is what is on deck....
More refined filter parameters: Ability to filter on length and height Ability to filter on skill level General Search:  Ability to type part of a kit name and search for all related kits. Data page:   This will be a drill down into the kit including a picture of the kit completed and important details regarding the kit itself. Some of what is currently in the data view will be moved here to make the data view a little less cluttered. Reviews: The ability for those of you who have built some of these kits can review them for others.  The reviews will have scales for the quality of materials, documentation and plans as well as a way to rate the kit for accuracy and skill level.   It is one thing for the manufacturers to say it, it is more meaningful when those who actually have worked with it say it. Links to related build logs.   Just another way for the MSW to find build logs related to their ships or for people to get a preview of what they may be in for. Manufacturer Data Page:  Just a quick data sheet on the company itself, where it is, contact information etc etc. Search launch:  A simple mechanism for people who may have found a ship they are interested in to one click google search for the kit in question. That is what I have on my list, the best part (as is usually the case) what comes out of the community.
 
As I mentioned, my hopes is this becomes a think tank project and grows from ideas provided by the MSW Community.
 
Why announce it with so much more to do?
 
  Feedback. 
 
Like it, Love it, Hate it I can take it; let me know.  
 
Whether you like it or not; let me know.   What people like I will continue with and what they don’t I will try to change so that they do,  but I can’t unless I know.
 
I can promise to take all suggestions and comments under consideration, but can’t promise all will be done.  
 
I will do my best to address concerns and questions as quickly as possible; after all if you take the time to lend a suggestion I can at least take the time to acknowledge it =)
 
My only goal is to make this as useful as possible and make it a solid resource for the Model Ship World community.
 
We can use this thread (I think) as the think tank for this project.   I will post updates to the database as I do them as well as keep a running list of ideas and where I may be at with them.
 
Where is this database hosted? I see it doesn’t have an MSW domain.
 
This is true,
 
this project is hosted on my own hosting service. 
 
I have been using them for quite some time and have not had any issues so am fairly confident it will have acceptable uptime for us to use this. 
 
The ampitcher.com well, ampitcher is me =)  
 
There is no link behind the scenes to MSW so your MSW information is safe, and this database does not require any sensitive information for you to access it.  If you have any concerns please PM Me I will be glad to address them.
 
This is however an MSW resource, meaning I am doing this for MSW and the MSW community. 
 
People from the outside may find it in a search or what not, but all efforts are to grow from within MSW and to drive TO MSW from the outside. =)
 
Anything we can do right now to help?
 
Kit companies and information
 
I have several in there (see list above) but I know there are more.   If you see any companies that are missing please let me know.  Right now I am focused on wood kits, but will be adding in plastic and card shortly.
 
Likewise, while in the database you will see many entries have blank data.  This is because of one of several things; either I could not find it, couldn’t figure it out or had conflicting information so wasn’t sure what to put.  
 
IF anyone has any knowledge they can lend me towards those empty slots please PM me with ID (first column) and the information.  I will edit them asap!  And thank you heartily!! =)
 
Well, I think I rambled on enough.   
 
Here is the link to the database.  
 
http://mswshipkits.ampitcher.com/
 
Take a look, let me know what you think and I want to thank you for your time.  
 
Updates will be coming so stay tuned!
 
For now, if we can limit data error information to PM and leave the forum topic for discussion related to the database, new ideas, feedback and updates – it would be appreciated!!
 
Thank you again, hope you like it and looking forward to creating the best model ship database on the web – with your help I know we can do it!!
 
As always
ENJOY!!
 
 

I've worked on the mast and the capstan.
 
 
First the mast--
 

 
On the left is a piece of maple that I started to round, got about 3/4 of the way there, and decided I didn't like the maple.
 
Next to that is a piece of Swiss Pear that I cut with a jewelers saw, horrendously.   I wavered far off my cut line, and this piece is too narrow in the middle to make the fore or main mast.  I think I can use it for the bowsprit.
 
Next to the right is another try at cutting a straight(er) piece of wood.  This one will work.  Farthest on the right is the billet of wood I am cutting these from.   I know this is insane, and I should just order squared wood that is close to the size I need.  I didn't want to wait, (or spend more money) but after doing this once, I will order some square wood for the rest of the masts and spars!
 
Here is the sanding down of the piece, underway-
 

 
 
Underhill says to taper the square to the right widths, before chamfering and making the mast round, so that's what I did.
 
 
Here's the mast mostly tapered square.   There's still some fat at the middle section.  There are some measuring points marked.   As I sanded a side, these would get erased, and I'd redraw them before moving on to another side--
 

 
 
The illustrations and directions I have seen for mast making are for larger, "made" masts with the cheeks, front fish and iron  (or rope) bands.  This will be a simple, single piece, and I'm not sure how to work the bibs into the mast and taper.  This may be a throwaway trial run if it's not satisfactory.   But at least I will be able to use it to set the chainplate angles when I get to those. 
 
Here's the mast mostly tapered and shaped--
 

 
 
Next was making the bibs.  I glued two pieces together, made a rough cut with the jewelers saw, and then further shaped them with files while they were glued together--
 

 
 
Here they are separated--
 

 
 
I glued them to the mast, and filed and sanded them some more-- 
 

 
 
You can also see some work on the capstan pieces in that picture, but I better back up just a little.
 
As with the bibs, I cut blanks for the capstan whelps--
 

 
 
And glued them into a block--
 

 
 
The block was sawed, filed and sanded to get the right profile.  I also made an octagonal center post.  This will extend down to the lower deck--
 

 
 
I glued a brass pivot point into the bottom of the post, and separated the whelp pieces.  The piece with the hole will sit on the upper deck with the capstan--
 

 
 
My capstan is supposed to be similar to the one on the Institute of Nautical Archeology (INA) model of the US Brig Jefferson.  That capstan has a different profile to the whelps than I usually see, and seems a little narrower overall, also.   I don't know if mine is going to end up as nice as that one!
 
 
Ron

OK, here is what I did and the results.
 
I clamped the glued up piece (started with the 'burnt to bare') in a wood vise. I used another piece of wood leaning against the top part and hit it with my calibrated hammer. I did the same thing with the other two, hitting it with about the same force.

 
All three pieces sheared where I had clamped it and none broke at the glue joint.

 
I then tried to break the remaining parts with pliers. Indeed the 'bare to bare' splintered some more but not at the glue line (top left). The 'burnt to burnt' (right) broke a sliver at the glue line, and the third one ('burnt to bare') did break through the burnt joint leaving burn marks on the bare side.
It felt like it took about the same amount of force to break each one.

 
My conclusion is that it makes very little difference if you sand the burnt edge or not. Al least with the glue I used. I suggest that others might try something like this with other adhesives.

After careful analysis of the data presented, it would appear that an alternative conclusion may also prove viable.  Specifically, the glue joints in each case are stronger than the wood itself.  It is suggested that further experimentation be conducted to determine the strength of the joints in the tension, rather than in the shear,  mode.  This might best be accomplished with the use of either an 'Instron' device or the application of opposing forces using two identical teams of draught horses
 
Pending the publication of the results of the modified experimental design, I shall continue to get the 'brown stuff' off prior to gluing   

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 23 – Forward Half Frames
 
 
American Clipper Note: In the last part, the three types of frames were discussed.  To shed some further light on that subject, before moving to the half frame work, I have included some images pf patterns that illustrate the types and also the way the shape of Young America’s hull changed from midship to the bow.
 
The first image shows one of the midship patterns.
 

 
Young America had relatively flat floors for an extreme clipper compared to the early versions like Griffith’s Sea Witch, McKay’s Staghound or Webb’s own design for Challenge.  In all these ships the angle of the lower timbers to the turn of the bilge was much greater giving the midship a pronounced V shape.  By 1853, designers were learning that extreme deadrise did not contribute to speed to the degree previously thought.  Later extreme clippers had fuller bodies, like the one shown above.
 
Moving forward the next image shows frame a, the most forward of the half frames and the last one going forward to be set at right angles to the keel.
 
 
 
The most striking feature of this pattern is the extremely sharp v-shape of the hull at this point – a defining characteristic of all the extreme clippers. Notice that the frame is in two pieces separated by the keelson in the center.  These will be bolted to the sides of the keelson.   Also note that the bolt holes are becoming perilously close to the forward (green) outer profile at the top.  This is necessary on this highly beveled frame pair so the bolts can be driven through this forward frame of the pair and not break through the inside profile on the aft frame.  Some are actually over the line, but remember that the sidings on the upper segments are reduced so the bolt holes will actually be inside of the profile when the sidings are reduced.  The pattern is at the forward face of the wider floors.
 
Finally, the most forward cant frame, f, is shown below.
 

 
This pattern shows the extremely narrow section just aft of the hawse timbers.  This frame, when assembled with is aft partner, will fit into the forward score of the five cut out in the last part.
 
So, with that background the installation of the forward frames may be less confusing.
 
The first picture shows assembly of the two sides of the first half frame pair.
 

 
The vertical strip between the frames was used to size the separation at the keelson for an easy fit.  Next is a picture of a later frame with two horizontal temporary cross-spales to allow the frame to be installed like a full frame.  This is much easier than dealing with two separated frames.
 

 
Unfortunately the first frame was a bit loose on the keelson, so the bottom cross-spale was removed and replaced with two pieces, each glued only on one opposite side.  This allowed the joint at the bottom to be closed up with a clamp as shown below.
 

 
The next [picture shows a close up of the other side during assembly.
 

 
Note that the bottom of the frame is aligned with the top of the keel rabbet.  The lower cross-spale resting on the keelson was installed to set this height.  When the glue had set at the keelson, the usual spacers were installed above to maintain spacing and adjust the centering – as shown in the last picture.
 

 
In the next part, the most forward cant frames will be set.
 
 
Ed

Sewing progresses very slowly.  I’m still learning how to handle the sewing machine.  You would think this would be fairly simple, but no!  I’m finding that the most difficult part of sewing the seams in the sails is starting a line to stitching.
 

 
If you don’t control the top and bottom threads, keeping them taught with a finger as you begin the stitch, the bottom thread will sometimes snag the top thread and pull it under the cloth.  This causes it to be tangled into the stitching.  Of course you don’t discover this until after you’ve finished the entire line of stitching.  Sometimes I can very carefully pull the thread out and tighten the stitching.  Sometimes I can’t and then it requires taking out the entire line of stitching and doing it over again.  I’m learning!
 
Once I have the seams sewn into the sail pattern it leaves “Irish Pennants” along the hem line.  Using a regular sewing needle I bring the top thread back through the cloth and tie it to the bottom thread with a square knot.
 


 
Once all the seams are sewn in I dampened the sail cloth and ironed all the wrinkles out.  Now it’s time to start cutting out the patterns.
 

 
I’ve used Fray Check along all the sail pattern outlines to prevent the cloth from unraveling after it’s cut.  I also painted a thin solution of white glue to all the outside areas that will be folded to form the hems.  I’m hoping this will add just enough stiffness to allow for a nice crisp fold.
 
As I said; slow progress, but, “softly, softly, catchee monkey.”
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 22 – Cant Frame Scores
 
 
American Clipper Note:  In a departure from the historical notes on the stirring adventures of these ships in service, I thought it would be a good idea to comment on some construction aspects as well.  Since the forward framing is set to begin on the model, some description of that might be appropriate. 
 
The bulk of the transverse hull framing on these ships – and most ships – consisted of full breadth “square frames” whose lower timbers rested on and were bolted through the keel.  As the forward (or aft) end of the ship was approached and the v-shape of the floor timbers that crossed the keel became more acute, a point would be reached where naturally grown “compass timber” could not be found to make these pieces.  At that point – on these ships – “half frames” were installed.  These were still square to the keel, but were made in separate assemblies for each side of the ship and were bolted horizontally through each other and the vertical deadwood/keelson structure – the backbone of the hull.  Further forward, as the bevels on these frames became more pronounced, it would no longer be possible to bolt the sections of each half frame pair together with bolts “normal” or at a right angle to the face of the frame, without the bolt being exposed through the beveled side.  At this point “cant frames” were used to complete the bow (or stern) framing.  These were also bolted to the deadwood but were angled – canted – forward to reduce their bevel and allow the pairs to be bolted together securely.  Since every ship had a different shape and since timber availability varied, it seems likely that these break points were set for each ship in the mold loft as the frame patterns were drawn out and timber supplies known. 
 
I applied this assumption in lofting the frames for the Young America model.
 
Before starting work on the next frames to be installed – the forward half-frames – the “scores” for the cant frames needed to be cut while there was still enough room to do this.  These scores provided important support to the angled cant frames by allowing them to be inset into the keelson/deadwood – rather than depending on bolts alone.
 
The vertical joint faces of each half-frame and the cant frame extend up from the bearding line to the cutting down line.  The bearding line defines the point at each frame where the frame profile narrows down to the face of the 16” wide  keelson/deadwood.  The cutting down line defines the upper edge of the inboard faces of the frames at the keelson/deadwood.
 
The first picture shows a template - made from the drawing - being used to trace the bearding line on the model.
 

 
A similar template was used to trace the cutting down line above this.  The next picture shows the vertical lines of the scores being marked using a Plexiglas square made to slide clear of the keel retaining strips on the base board.
 

 
These lines define the extent of each of the five cant frame joint faces – the area to be inset.  The next picture shows the first score on the starboard side cut out.
 

 
Since I plan to plank the starboard side of the model, I started this risky chiseling process on that side for practice.  Planking is a great way to hide framing mistakes.
 
I will not describe the full process here, but the next few pictures show it generally.  In the first picture the vertical lines are being scored with a knife using very light cuts.
 

 
In the next picture, a chisel is being used to cut into the deadwood at the bottom – just above the bearding line.  The line just above the chisel is the joint line between the apron and the deadwood.
 

 
The score itself was then pared out with various small chisels.  The next picture shows some of that work in progress. 
 

 
The last picture shows three of the five cant frame scores essentially finished.  Two more to go – on this side.
 

 
Although it was more difficult to manage this work in place, I did it this way because the overall hull assembly is still quite weak and I did not want to risk setting it up on the workbench for that reason.
 
Next: on to the half frames.
 
 
Ed

Another question that came on e-mail was the problem of gluing very small parts with out getting glue on instruments and fingers. Typically the part ends up glued to the forceps, thumb or whatever.   An example are the line stoppers or chalks at the end of the yard.
 

 
An alternative is to leave a tab for holding or glue a larger piece, let the glue cure overnight and then trim or sand to the proper shape.
 

 
Topgallant yard and Crossjack yard
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Crossjack Yard, Mizzen topmast yard and three topgallant yards.
 


 
The end of the Main topgallant yard with line stoppers or chalks, and "iron ring" around end of yard.
 
Sling cleats.  Crossjack yard (completed) and Mizzen topmast yard (not yet shaped)
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Marc;
 
I used your idea to make a jig; mine will fit over the uprights and establish end points for the panels;  which in my build will be of varying lengths.