samueljr

Bob,
 
Sweet work.
 
I know you're scratching (pretty much everything) how we're you going to approach the head rails? Would it be helpful if I sent you a PDF of the images that you could copy/transfer to stock?
 
let me know
 
Sam

For my Soleil Royal I used good quality brushes.  Generally liners and pointers in sizes of 5/0 and 10/0.  I seemed to have the best results by painting the outside edges of the figures first and then filling in the rest.  All of the paintwork was done under magnification.  Only enough paint was loaded on the brush to allow for a couple of strokes.  When using any metallic color paint you must stir the paint often as the pigments settle very fast and you will find the color getting very dull as you apply it to the surface if you do not stir frequently.
 

Bob,
 
Sweet work.
 
I know you're scratching (pretty much everything) how we're you going to approach the head rails? Would it be helpful if I sent you a PDF of the images that you could copy/transfer to stock?
 
let me know
 
Sam

Another few items completed in the waist. I've made and installed the hatch, the barricade and the two ladders.The hatch has a boxwood coaming and uses the kit laser cut grating. The barricade is made up from boxwood posts and the laser cut cross piece from the kit. Using the kit part simplified things considerably, because it has the square holes for the posts cut in it. I chose to paint this assembly black and pinned and glued it to the deck. The ladders are boxwood. 
 
This completes the work in the waist, with the exception of the waist rails which are very fragile and will be left for a later time. I'm now working on the quarter deck area, doing the limited deck planking and the bulwark planking.
 
Bob

A few items of progress to report on. First, I added the minimal amount of deck planking that I'm going to do in the waist. As usual on this build, the planking is holly with pencil "caulking" and golden oak filler for "treenails". There is planking to frame the hatch and scuttle and to provide a base for the railings. 
 
Second, I made and installed the cap rail in the waist. This was done with boxwood strip bent to shape with a piece of half round molding glued to the outside edge and the assembly painted black. The molding extended beyond the cap rail and formed the first portion of the plank sheer molding. Third, I added the aft portion of the plank sheer molding, made from black painted half round. The forward portion won't be done until I do work on the head assemblies.
 
Next will be the hatch, barricade and ladders in the waist.
 
Bob
 
 
 

Bob,
 
Really nice work.
 
You're doing an outstanding job of taking the details from the kit and recreating them in better woods.
 
It’s a shame (as we’ve discussed) Expo didn’t let me include the deck framing as I had originally intended. But (it’s understandable) they have to pay attention to cost (both production and retail).
 
By the way are you using the framing drawings I sent you a while back that I did for the kit? As they were never produced I was wondering.
 
It seems there is a “call” for you to do a kit….
 
I’m currently just starting two for Expo. They’ll be announced in the near future.
 
There’s a number of different aspects you might want to get involved in;
 
Manual – ESSEX is 15 chapters (about 100) pages and over 250 photos. I actually wrote about 30 more pages (edited down) and took over a 1,000 pics. Of course we can only hope the printer doesn’t mess up the runs (twice) like they did with ESSEX.  I hope you’d be open though to taking the countless phone calls and emails helping out builders who were unfortunate enough to get a bad manual as I have.
 
Castings – Expo’s out-source company only destroyed all my masters once, so I only had to go back and start over once (at my expense).
 
Photo-Etch – The production company wasn’t bad to deal with depending on whether they thought they could produce the etch images. Funny thing is on a couple of occasions one rep told me they couldn’t do a part and believe it or not they had already produced it and it was installed on the proto-type already. I actually had to send them photos to prove it!
 
Drawings – do you know how to use a cad or drafting program?.................
 
Pay – After taking into account the 1,000’s of hours (literally needed) to design and produce a proto-type and it’s materials and manage the process, after taxes and out-of pocket expenses it comes down to a few dollars an hour………….. I’d be happy to split that with you.
 
Let me know – LOL!
Sam

Bob,
 
Nothing but praise. As I've said here a number of times your work is outstanding and I consider your example of ESSEX a vindication (of sorts) of the kit.
 
We all know that Expo isn't going to release a kit with high end woods (wouldn't even consider it) so it's great to see the design detail/aspects of the kit produced in better stock. And there are always design limitations based on production and retail costs.
 
There isn't a single kit available (not one) from anybody that can't be upgraded or improved upon. ESSEX is no different.
 
The offer to join the "Design Team" is just a little tongue in cheek humor.
 
I've often remarked that every builder should have to design a kit once in their life - they'd be much less inclined to comment on any kit after having done so. None the less there's always going to be a little "arm chair quarterbacking". That's what makes a community like MSW so great - the exchange of ideas and opinions from litteraly around the world.
 
The issues with ESSEX's production are well known and as the Designer I have to except responsibility (whether they are my issues or not). ESSEX was a "perfect storm" of sorts - a company in transition, a new designer (I had to take on a frigate no less - couldnt be some type of single pole fishing dingy - lol)
 
As with most things through experience I'm managing the new project(s) differently. Once the projects are public I'll chronicle the process (warts and all) here for all to see.
 
Keep up the great work Bob. As always if there's anything I can do let me know ( still have to get the figure head out to you - I haven't forgotten)
 
Stay well - Sam

Bob,
 
Nothing but praise. As I've said here a number of times your work is outstanding and I consider your example of ESSEX a vindication (of sorts) of the kit.
 
We all know that Expo isn't going to release a kit with high end woods (wouldn't even consider it) so it's great to see the design detail/aspects of the kit produced in better stock. And there are always design limitations based on production and retail costs.
 
There isn't a single kit available (not one) from anybody that can't be upgraded or improved upon. ESSEX is no different.
 
The offer to join the "Design Team" is just a little tongue in cheek humor.
 
I've often remarked that every builder should have to design a kit once in their life - they'd be much less inclined to comment on any kit after having done so. None the less there's always going to be a little "arm chair quarterbacking". That's what makes a community like MSW so great - the exchange of ideas and opinions from litteraly around the world.
 
The issues with ESSEX's production are well known and as the Designer I have to except responsibility (whether they are my issues or not). ESSEX was a "perfect storm" of sorts - a company in transition, a new designer (I had to take on a frigate no less - couldnt be some type of single pole fishing dingy - lol)
 
As with most things through experience I'm managing the new project(s) differently. Once the projects are public I'll chronicle the process (warts and all) here for all to see.
 
Keep up the great work Bob. As always if there's anything I can do let me know ( still have to get the figure head out to you - I haven't forgotten)
 
Stay well - Sam

Bob,
 
Really nice work.
 
You're doing an outstanding job of taking the details from the kit and recreating them in better woods.
 
It’s a shame (as we’ve discussed) Expo didn’t let me include the deck framing as I had originally intended. But (it’s understandable) they have to pay attention to cost (both production and retail).
 
By the way are you using the framing drawings I sent you a while back that I did for the kit? As they were never produced I was wondering.
 
It seems there is a “call” for you to do a kit….
 
I’m currently just starting two for Expo. They’ll be announced in the near future.
 
There’s a number of different aspects you might want to get involved in;
 
Manual – ESSEX is 15 chapters (about 100) pages and over 250 photos. I actually wrote about 30 more pages (edited down) and took over a 1,000 pics. Of course we can only hope the printer doesn’t mess up the runs (twice) like they did with ESSEX.  I hope you’d be open though to taking the countless phone calls and emails helping out builders who were unfortunate enough to get a bad manual as I have.
 
Castings – Expo’s out-source company only destroyed all my masters once, so I only had to go back and start over once (at my expense).
 
Photo-Etch – The production company wasn’t bad to deal with depending on whether they thought they could produce the etch images. Funny thing is on a couple of occasions one rep told me they couldn’t do a part and believe it or not they had already produced it and it was installed on the proto-type already. I actually had to send them photos to prove it!
 
Drawings – do you know how to use a cad or drafting program?.................
 
Pay – After taking into account the 1,000’s of hours (literally needed) to design and produce a proto-type and it’s materials and manage the process, after taxes and out-of pocket expenses it comes down to a few dollars an hour………….. I’d be happy to split that with you.
 
Let me know – LOL!
Sam

Bob,
 
Really nice work.
 
You're doing an outstanding job of taking the details from the kit and recreating them in better woods.
 
It’s a shame (as we’ve discussed) Expo didn’t let me include the deck framing as I had originally intended. But (it’s understandable) they have to pay attention to cost (both production and retail).
 
By the way are you using the framing drawings I sent you a while back that I did for the kit? As they were never produced I was wondering.
 
It seems there is a “call” for you to do a kit….
 
I’m currently just starting two for Expo. They’ll be announced in the near future.
 
There’s a number of different aspects you might want to get involved in;
 
Manual – ESSEX is 15 chapters (about 100) pages and over 250 photos. I actually wrote about 30 more pages (edited down) and took over a 1,000 pics. Of course we can only hope the printer doesn’t mess up the runs (twice) like they did with ESSEX.  I hope you’d be open though to taking the countless phone calls and emails helping out builders who were unfortunate enough to get a bad manual as I have.
 
Castings – Expo’s out-source company only destroyed all my masters once, so I only had to go back and start over once (at my expense).
 
Photo-Etch – The production company wasn’t bad to deal with depending on whether they thought they could produce the etch images. Funny thing is on a couple of occasions one rep told me they couldn’t do a part and believe it or not they had already produced it and it was installed on the proto-type already. I actually had to send them photos to prove it!
 
Drawings – do you know how to use a cad or drafting program?.................
 
Pay – After taking into account the 1,000’s of hours (literally needed) to design and produce a proto-type and it’s materials and manage the process, after taxes and out-of pocket expenses it comes down to a few dollars an hour………….. I’d be happy to split that with you.
 
Let me know – LOL!
Sam

It has been a while since I have posted to my build log so I thought I would update my progress on my Long Boat.  I thought I had finished thinning down the frames until I had several modelers look at my Long Boat model at the Northeast Joint Clubs Show back in April.  It was pointed out that my frames were still too thick as shown in the post above, so I thinned them down more and also worked down the frame at the bow.  I am happy with the result now, as this will allow me to install a very narrow cap rail.
 
I gave the inside of the long boat two coats of Watco Danish oil (thanks Toni) and it really brought out the boxwood tone of the wood.  I then jumped ahead in the instructions and installed the floorboards since the interior of the boat is very easy to work with.  I plan to make the platforms next and hold them for installation in the future.  Then I will make and install the caprail.
 
I have an advantage over a lot of other Long Boat modelers as I have spent hours studying the build logs of other Long Boat builds that are further along in their builds than I am.  I thank them for their posts as they have given me different ideas and options to use in my build of the Long Boat. 
 

Unless you're going to have a natural finish (as opposed to a white bottom of some sort) why would you have to manufacture a new stem?
 
Just cut the bad area square and cut a corresponding size piece out of the scrap sheet the parts came off of. Glue it on, Fill and sand the joints and paint as if nothing happened.
 
Just asking?
 
Sam

Made some progress over the past 2 days by completing the rudder and tiller. The tiller was made with the kit supplied 1/16" square basswood. It is thinned down to 1/32" at its narrowest point. I've never worked on anything this fragile so I had to be super careful. The pintles and gudgeons were made from kit supplied 1/32" x 1/64" brass strip and the pin was made using a tiny piece of 28 gauge wire soldered to the brass strip. As per Chuck's instructions, the cutouts in the rudder might need to be deepened slightly to ensure that the pintles lay even to the rudders edge. If they are not flush there will be a gap between the rudder and transom. The pintles and gudgeons were painted with Badger 16-05 Weathered Black.
 
Once everything was done a thin coat of Dullcoat(not seen in the photo)was sprayed over the entire structure. This has the added benefit of sealing the Weathered Black paint which has a tendency to rub off easily.
 

Thanks - I missed this post when it originally was up.
 
I just found out. Hopefully they will resume next year (2015).
 
I've got every issue from #1 through 2013. They're an invaluable resource
 
Sam

Chainplates were installed following Chuck's practicum.  One thing I found easier to do was to pull the thread that is hooked onto the chainplate through the hole in the caprail from the top down and then hook on the chainplate and pull the thread and chainplate back up into the hole.  I used a pin that I bent the tip on to push up through the hole in the caprail and then catch it on the tread to pull it down through the hole.  I then drilled the holes in the hull for the nails to secure the chainplates.  Tying the deadeyes to the chainplates was an experience.
 

 
 
Next I located and drilled the holes in the caprail for the belaying pins and eye bolts and glued them in place.  All the belaying pins, eye bolts and chainplates were blackened prior to installation.  I decided to keep all the deadeyes and blocks their natural color.
 

 
 
I also made an installed the traveler.  I pretty much followed the practicum except that I soldered the legs to the top of the traveler.
 
 


 
This will be my last post on my build for the next two weeks.   The shipyard will be shutdown while the admiral and I go for a little R&R in the sunshine state.

Thanks Augie, Mark, Bob, Sherry and Mike, and once again to all the "likes".
 
Even though it has been a long weekend here this weekend, I'm afraid I didn't get too much time in the shipyard.  I did however, get to collect my new case for Victory.  Even though I haven't quite finished her, I wanted to get her under a cover to protect her from damage and keep the dust off while I finish off the last few bits and pieces.
 
I know I could probably have made a case for a fraction of the price I paid for this (which was a lot!), but I wanted a "frameless" look for this model, so had it professionally made by a local plastics firm (Plastic Creations in Fyshwick for the local Canberrans - highly recommended).  I also decided that rather than use a wood base, I would continue the theme and had a black perspex base made at the same time, with a channel routed in it to accept the "box".  The idea of the black base (which is also partially reflective) was to tie in the black and yellow colours of the ship.  I like the effect.
 
I took a few pictures of it this afternoon, but it was getting a bit dark.  I've shown a couple of pictures here, but they don't really do it justice.
 
Here's one with only what's left of the daylight:
 

 
And here is one with the overhead downlights on. 
 

 
The table that it sits on I originally made to display my Cutty Sark model.  I think the timber is Yellow Stringy Bark if memory serves me correctly.
 
While I had the camera out, I thought I may as well take a picture of the Cutty Sark that has sat proudly in this position (just inside the front door) for many years until usurped by Victory.  This was a Billings kit and was my first serious foray into wooden ship building. As such, it is fairly basic - if only I knew then what I know now!  The case that this one is in I made myself. It has survived four house moves, including from one side of the country to the other and back again.  The only damage it received was to the rigging on one move, which I then replaced and did a better job on.  Even so, when I look at that rigging compared to Victory, it seems ever so basic.  It is now in the lounge room as a "temporary" measure until we figure out what to do with it. A "Viking Funeral" is still on the cards..........
 

 
You can see in the reflection of this photo my wife's collection of stuffed animals - they at least are an appreciative audience!
 
Ship's Boats continued:
 
With the limited time I did manage in the shipyard this weekend, I did manage to paint the internal hull of the Pinnace, fit the Risers for the thwarts, and fit the previously made footling.
 

 

 
I'm now making up some gratings to fit, using 1/32" pear stock that Jeff Hayes at Hobbymill made up for me some time ago.  It's the same stuff that I used on the Launch.  Hopefully I'll get that installed next weekend and then be ready to paint the exterior of the hull before moving on to the fittings.
 
 

Hi Dave! Thanks for stopping by and I know you will love building this one!
 
Sorry there hasn't been much activity on the build log. There has a lot going on and
I've only been able to pop in once in a while. I had a bathroom renovation I had to
do as well as the other "normal" spring time duties that required my attention so
shop time suffered.
 
Now most of you know, and I've done it before, when your busy with activities other
than modeling you should not try to steal time to work when you can't devote your
full attention. Rushing in the shop and grabbing a few minutes here and there seemed
like a good idea butttt..... Now I'm sure you can feel the "oh crap what have I done"
story coming here!
 
I started laying the first five rows of planking. The first plank on the model is the first
strake below the wales and then the next four rows are the base for the wales. Sooooo
after placing these first planks I notice that my planking wasn't running the same as Chucks.
Now that's not too unusual as I can't come close to planking as well as he does. But after
going back and looking at Chucks pictures and the plans I notice the rise of my planks at
the bow was too sharp. I don't know how I messed it up. (Did the same on the Confederacy! Duh!)
 
I pouted for a day and then sucked it up and set about correcting my boneheaded mistake.  
 
Not the first and certainly not the last!
 
So to correct this I went back to around the 7th bulkhead where the run was true, ripped
the planks off and reran the planking. Although not perfect it is much closer to where it
needs to be. Thank goodness that the second planking of the wales will cover the cut line
or I would have had to rip the full run off. Of course I had to do this to both the port and
starboard sides as they matched.
 
Here are some pictures of the planking in it's rough state as she sits right now.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Also to get the curve correct for the hull planking I took the plans and cut the shape of
the hull out of a scrap piece of wood and was able to bend two planks at a time. There
was a little "spring back" but for the most part they fit very well.
 

 
Ok the plan now it to keep my head out of my butt and proceed with as few errors as possible!
 
* Please note that censors severely edited the language in this post to maintain a "G" rating *  
 
 
 
 
 
 

I finished the oarlocks, the horse located in front of the transom and red paint work today.
 
Looks crude but it works. Made from scrap 3/32" aluminum stock to even out the oarlocks using a file.
 

 
The oarlocks were painted with the same wood tone color that I used on the belaying pins in order to lighten the color of the wire. I then did all the red painting as necessary including the oarlocks. All of the red was then sprayed with the Testors clear dull coat. I sprayed the clear into an airbrush container and used the airbrush to spray. This gave me finer control over the area being sprayed. Even though you can't see it in the photo the red has no shine at all and looks very evenly toned now that it has been sprayed with the Testors Dullcoat.
 

I sent this comment to Conway:
 
Please pass on my sincere thanks to John for having made such a significant contribution to the ship modelling publishing world. In the early days of Model Shipwright, this was my only window into what others were doing in the field. Working in isolation, Model Shipwright was a valuable tool for me as well as many others, I am sure.   Every best wish to John in his well-earned retirement.

Although I have only been in the hobby for approximately 4 years, I relished reading my copies of Conway's Annual Shipwright - always cover-to-cover. I was impressed with such valuable and fascinating information as well as superb graphic presentation.
 
I, too, am sad that there will be no 2014 issue. Perhaps someone can take up the job and continue with the superb editorial; I remain a loyal subscriber to Shipwright should publishing be resumed in the future. Paper or digital, es macht nichts.
 
Ron

With much thanks to Mike and a few Duh moments I thought I would share my efforts to make my boxwood stem and shape the Rabbit on my false keel.
 
First the false keel. And I would be remiss in not giving credit to Harvey here.
 
I took a draftsman's compass. sharpened the graphite point and extended the metal tip just a bit. I then set the width of the 2 points to be just shy of 1/16 of an inch. I then used this to draw I line on both sides of the false keel that followed the curve of the keel from one end to the other. This gave me a line to follow when sanding.
 
In the 2nd picture you will also see some of the tools I used for the Boxwood stem. For the stem I did a rough cut from the boxwood sheet. I then clamped the rough piece between the 2 basswood stems. Thank you Chuck for the pair of stems. and then I clamped all 3 pieces carefully lined up in my trusty Panamax vice. And then used my Dremel with a sanding wheel to bring it down until everything was the same. Thank you Mike. I don't know why I didn't remember the Dremel. I also used the Dremel to drill the holes. Lastly I used a #13 blade in my Xacto knife to cut the scarf joint. For those who don't know the #13 is the same as the #11 except it has saw teeth. I finally some micro files to clean everything up. Oh and I used the admiral's nail file for some of the sanding. (don't tell her!)
 
The final picture here is a macro shot of the Stem. I can see it still needs a bit more sanding. blowing up macro sure shows what is still needed. the best part of this is that as long as there was some laser char on the basswood stems I knew I hadn't sanded to much.

Just got printed A4 paper sails at the moment, just to check overall fit..
 
 

Finally got most of the inner hull details completed. I used Blacken-it on all the metal parts. 15 minute baths in acetone and vinegar in that order and then 50% reduced Blacken-it with distilled water. The windlass and handle where made next. I could not get each end super close to the riser because the riser is at a slight angle. Though everything looks good, if I did the model again, I would sand the frames slightly more vertical so the risers would be more perpendicular. Handle is not glued yet. I was hoping to get wooden belaying pins of the right scale but they are not available according to Chuck. I painted the brass ones from the kit after applying a gray primer coat first. I used yellow ochre Acrylic paint with a touch of orange, white and burnt orange. After I place the oarlocks using 24 guage wire I will clean up the red paint on the cap rail and paint them red as well.
 

 
Transom frieze
 

 
Augie told me about this product which he uses to flatten glossy acrylic paint. It's very easy to use and works great. Just a light spray is all that's needed. I will use it on the red paint later.
 

Tim
 
NO! - LOL!
 
Sam

Bill,
 
The corrections (additions) include the addition of a second former that already has the "cuts" in it for the "drop down decks" of the builder wants to use it and of course the corresponding images on the plans. 
 
I've also tweaked a couple of images (parts) nothing major. I've also added a few more lines in the manual and will make sure (try) to see that the manual and drawings remain correct after they have gone to the printer
 
I'll be announcing the new kit very soon - it's a new kit in 1/4" scale.
 
Sam