samueljr

OK so I skipped a few steps here but this is where I'm at.
 
It's been pretty by the book (kinda')
 
As I stated initially I wanted a deeper color scheme so I've opted for a first coat of 50-50 thinner and minwax golden oak stain and then a full strength (lightly applied) of golden oak. I then hit everything with a wipe on poly. The paint is a windsor newton galleria black (the usual 97 (LOL)  thin coats).
 
I have ordered cherry sheets to make the lower molding out of cherry to match the finish. The top moldings are ripped from scrap from the kit.
 
The bow is painted full black as I saw some images of barges with a full field of color. I thought the paint between moldings looked a little "race stripey" for my tastes.
 
The carvings (or in my case all castings) will be a gilded gold with a dull finish.
 
BTW I have purchased the resin castings from Syren and they are beautifully done.
 
For those of you who are wondering why the keel is doubled the kit as designed CAN NOT withstand a fall from a table top to a concrete floor. After several attempts I was left with the option of re-enforcing the keel or starting over.
 
I am thinking if continuing the frieze pattern onto the bench arms. I've attached a mock-up of it - opinions?????
 
Also I have accepted Chuck's "challenge" and will be doing some additional carvings/details to the bow.............. to be continued
 
Sam
 
 


ARMS WITH INSERT030518.pdf

OK so I skipped a few steps here but this is where I'm at.
 
It's been pretty by the book (kinda')
 
As I stated initially I wanted a deeper color scheme so I've opted for a first coat of 50-50 thinner and minwax golden oak stain and then a full strength (lightly applied) of golden oak. I then hit everything with a wipe on poly. The paint is a windsor newton galleria black (the usual 97 (LOL)  thin coats).
 
I have ordered cherry sheets to make the lower molding out of cherry to match the finish. The top moldings are ripped from scrap from the kit.
 
The bow is painted full black as I saw some images of barges with a full field of color. I thought the paint between moldings looked a little "race stripey" for my tastes.
 
The carvings (or in my case all castings) will be a gilded gold with a dull finish.
 
BTW I have purchased the resin castings from Syren and they are beautifully done.
 
For those of you who are wondering why the keel is doubled the kit as designed CAN NOT withstand a fall from a table top to a concrete floor. After several attempts I was left with the option of re-enforcing the keel or starting over.
 
I am thinking if continuing the frieze pattern onto the bench arms. I've attached a mock-up of it - opinions?????
 
Also I have accepted Chuck's "challenge" and will be doing some additional carvings/details to the bow.............. to be continued
 
Sam
 
 


ARMS WITH INSERT030518.pdf

Well I've decided on a finish.
 
As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color.
 
I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off.
 
I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine.
 
Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input
 
Sam

Well I've decided on a finish.
 
As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color.
 
I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off.
 
I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine.
 
Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input
 
Sam

Well I've decided on a finish.
 
As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color.
 
I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off.
 
I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine.
 
Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input
 
Sam

Thanks Ben
 
That's actually what I'm using. The small surfaces combined with the tight grain make it tough to get it to bite in sometimes.
 
Have you started working with any finishes yet? Using scrap from the sheets I've laid down a first coat of 50/50 (mineral spirit/tung oil) with a second coat of tung on top. It' will have to dry over night. Not excited about it so far. Reminds me of wood work/trim you find in houses. No depth.
 
Once dry I'm going to try a wash of burnt sienna and a wash of yellow ochre to see if I can get a deeper patina. I've looked into bithumen(sp?) but not certain if that would be the way to go. 
 
If I don't like any of those I may take a look at some of the tinted Danish Oils.
 
Also when I find the finish I want when do I apply it? I know the directions finish progressively, but if it's a two or three step process how to keep it consistent through the build?
 
Sam

Well I've decided on a finish.
 
As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color.
 
I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off.
 
I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine.
 
Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input
 
Sam

Well I've decided on a finish.
 
As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color.
 
I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off.
 
I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine.
 
Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input
 
Sam

Chuck
 
The jig does make it easier for squareness, alignment and setting a solid base for planking. But like any "tool" care must be taken to use it correctly and not to allow it's contribution(s) to lead to careless building habits.
 
Chuck has designed and engineered a wonderful system for the builder to produce a plank on frame model but in no way is this reduced to a "slot A tab B" build.
 
Care and patience as always should be taken to maximize the kit's attributes.
 
Sam

I've only submitted a couple of logs on MSW and they've been more progress than build logs in that It has been pics of where I'm at and not necessarily how I got there. I'm going to try to make this a little more comprehensive so here goes..........
 
The BARGE arrived to my house in Western New York from Syren's offices in New Jersey in about 4 days. Cant beat that. The box was much smaller than I anticipated only being about 15"x4"x6".
 
I opened it to find everything neatly and securely placed and and well packaged.  Included are two plan sheets 18"x24" at a scale of 1:1. The manual is a 3 part PDF download from Syren's website that I had printed out and spiral bound at Office Max. I opted to print it in B&W, after binding it was $12.99. The same production in color would have run close to $60 so B&W it is.
 
The parts are all extremely well cut and appear to be very easy to release. What is surprising is the delicate feel of the parts. A lot of the sheets are only 1/32" so patience and care must be shown in handling. One thing that caught my eye was how pretty the cherry wood is even unfinished. The color is consistent and the grain is very attractive. With a finish coat or oil on it it should be beautiful.
 
The flags provided are sharp and detailed as are the inlays for the BARGE and the markings for the oars. 
 
The details of the 7 castings included are crisp and need virtually no remedial work prior to finish.
 
As far as unboxings go this was pretty uneventful. The quality of all included are what has come to be expected from Syren Ship Model Company - perfect.

Well I've decided on a finish.
 
As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color.
 
I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off.
 
I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine.
 
Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input
 
Sam

Well I've decided on a finish.
 
As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color.
 
I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off.
 
I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine.
 
Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input
 
Sam

Well I've decided on a finish.
 
As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color.
 
I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off.
 
I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine.
 
Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input
 
Sam

Well I've decided on a finish.
 
As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color.
 
I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off.
 
I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine.
 
Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input
 
Sam

Well I've decided on a finish.
 
As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color.
 
I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off.
 
I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine.
 
Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input
 
Sam

Well I've decided on a finish.
 
As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color.
 
I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off.
 
I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine.
 
Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input
 
Sam

Well I've decided on a finish.
 
As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color.
 
I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off.
 
I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine.
 
Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input
 
Sam

Well I've decided on a finish.
 
As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color.
 
I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off.
 
I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine.
 
Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input
 
Sam

Well I've decided on a finish.
 
As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color.
 
I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off.
 
I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine.
 
Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input
 
Sam

Sam,
 
Couple of things that I have noticed in the past using oil finishes.
 
1. If you have any glue residue on the wood, when you apply the oil it sits on top of the glue and doesn't soak in leaving a blemish, so make sure to wash off excess glue before it dries, or you will have to sand/scrape it off afterwards.
2. Like you said, first coat gets diluted so it penetrates, leave for 20 mins then wipe off the excess oil. Second coat goes on full strength - leave for 20 mins and then rub off with lint free rag to get a nice deep luster. If you don't rub it off well you will get a more shiny and reflective surface finish that I don't care for.
 
Ben
 

Thanks Ben
 
That's actually what I'm using. The small surfaces combined with the tight grain make it tough to get it to bite in sometimes.
 
Have you started working with any finishes yet? Using scrap from the sheets I've laid down a first coat of 50/50 (mineral spirit/tung oil) with a second coat of tung on top. It' will have to dry over night. Not excited about it so far. Reminds me of wood work/trim you find in houses. No depth.
 
Once dry I'm going to try a wash of burnt sienna and a wash of yellow ochre to see if I can get a deeper patina. I've looked into bithumen(sp?) but not certain if that would be the way to go. 
 
If I don't like any of those I may take a look at some of the tinted Danish Oils.
 
Also when I find the finish I want when do I apply it? I know the directions finish progressively, but if it's a two or three step process how to keep it consistent through the build?
 
Sam

Dutch Boeier